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Routes as trad in The Tower

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
22 Popeye

The original trad line of the crag. Starts in the pocket patch off the ledge on the left side of the wall.

Trad 35m
Malcolm's Crack (Closed Project)

FA: Equipped Malcolm Matheson, 2004

Trad 20m
22 King Features

The big girdle traverse of the left leading horizontal crack feature which splits the main wall. Start at ground level right of Toar

and finish at chains on Iron Arms. Bring lots of cams, slings and body protection.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schmidt, 2005

Trad 30m
Grease Me Up Laddie

Ungradeable. Squeeze into slot under 'Super Mario Bros' (50m right of Popeyed). Squirm your way through to the other side of 'The Tower' heading for the light. Finish in the bouldering cave.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt (no torches), 2003

Trad 70m
26 Red Right Hand

Left leaning overhung crackline about 5m right of 'Super Mario Bros'. Neil took a groundfall attempting the first ascent ground up. Two very hard cruxes on polished perfect rock. A trad classic for those with the skills. Chain lower off.

FA: Gareth Llewillin; Gareth Llewellin

Trad 16m
19 Olive Oyl

The easy option when everything else is too hard! Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeyed and in centre of south facing wall on a separate buttress behind 'Wellington Wimpy'. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

Trad 20m
14 Atari 8

Most straight-forward way up the huge boulder opposite the Tower's main wall. Start up crack L of the mossy scoop, and finish left of massive roof-block.

FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 24 Jan 2015

Trad 10m
24 Boulderdash

The massive boulder opposite the Tower now has 3 bolts up an tricky array of slab moves to reach horizontal. Until someone places another bolt, take a couple of large nuts and/or a medium sized cam to protect the easier upper section. Lower-off.

FA: Goshen Watts, 4 Apr 2015

Mixed trad 18m, 3
22 Goil

Very obscure. 'Small' south facing grey wall on boulder about 100m below the north-west end of the Tower. Start is marked by cairn. Up overhung juggy crack to start then onwards up slopers and faint corner with spaced good gear. Crux move in corner near end. Rap off tree leaning against boulder to descend.

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003

Trad 12m

Showing all 9 routes.

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