Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bokodake Iwa | |||||
5.12a | Tank Girl
| 4 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Ryu-kun no Hana
| ||||
5.11c | ★★ Za Saru (The Monkey)
| ||||
5.13a | ★★ Hihou Kan
| ||||
Dai Chimney
| |||||
5.12a | ★★ Voyager
ボイジャー | ||||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen Te no Hira-Iwa | |||||
5.10d | Love is Over
| ||||
5.10c | Fighting Macaroon II
| ||||
5.10b | Macaroon I
| ||||
5.10c | Endless Summer
| ||||
5.10b | Omoide no Vista
| ||||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen Ko Yubi Iwa | |||||
5.10c | Surprise Ending
| ||||
5.10c | ★ Go Gatsu no Yuki
| ||||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen Tanuki Iwa Shuhen Tanuki Iwa | |||||
5.12b | ★ Working Face
| 7 | |||
5.11a | Jinen Jho
| ||||
5.12a | ★★ Tororo
| ||||
5.11c | Gekkou
| ||||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen Tanuki Iwa Shuhen Kitsune Iwa | |||||
5.11b | Yota kitsune
| ||||
5.10c | Nyan Dolly
| 8 | |||
5.10b | Fox Tunnel
| 8 | |||
5.12b | Chakkari Don-hei
| ||||
5.12a | Ogurasan wa Ogesan
| ||||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen O Tonosama iwa | |||||
5.11a | Amazon II
| ||||
5.14a | ★★★ Ninja
| 4 | |||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen Amida Iwa | |||||
5.10d | Kiku Biyori
The name translates as "Chrysanthemum Weather" | 10m, 4 | |||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen Raigan | |||||
5.11b | Goro Goro
| 10 | |||
5.11a | Mizūmi No Densetsu
Translates as "Legend of the Lake" | 8 | |||
5.10c | Shirakomaike wa Shiro no Ike
| 9 | |||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen Komochi iwa | |||||
5.10a | Flake no Doukeshi
The name translates as "Clown flakes" | ||||
5.10a | Komochi shishamo
Whirlpool capelin | ||||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen Saikou Roof Hidari no Iwa | |||||
5.10b | Godzilla
| ||||
5.10d | Mosura no Yōchū
Larva of Mothra | ||||
5.8 | Minomushi
Basket Worm | ||||
5.10a | Saikou Roof Kengaku Route
Name Translates as "Highest roof tour route" | ||||
5.10c | ★ Shiraito
Name translates as Fine noodles | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Nadeshi
| ||||
5.10d | ★ Sanka Monogatari
Sanka story | ||||
Ogawayama Mawarime Daira Shuhen Mori no Naka no Boulder Oyayubi Iwa | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Ma-ji no Line
| 19m | |||
5.12a | China Girl
| 19m | |||
5.12c | ★ Platonic love
| 19m | |||
5.10a | ★ The Light
| 17m | |||
5.12d | The Kante
| ||||
5.12c | Ten Ma-de Agare
| 25m, 2 | |||
Ogawayama Kinpō Keikoku Genki ga Deru Slab | |||||
5.11a | Water chute
| 2 | |||
Ogawayama Kinpō Keikoku Sendō Iwa | |||||
5.11c | Green Pepper
| ||||
Ogawayama Hachimansawa Shuuhen Hachimansawa Hidari Iwa Slab | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ German suplex
enjoy granite slab. | 20m, 4 | |||
5.10b | ★ Black & White
Ogawayama classic | 20m, 3 | |||
5.10a | ★ Tom tou Ishou
Translates as "Together with Tom" | ||||
Ogawayama Hachimansawa Shuuhen Maga Slab | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ Suiyoubi no Cinderella
| 30m | |||
5.9 | Ogawayama Short Story
| ||||
5.7 | Ultra 7
| ||||
5.10c | Kawaii Onna
| 20m | |||
5.10c | ★★ A Prayer for Owen Meany
| ||||
5.10b | ★★ Takai Mado
| 20m | |||
5.11d | ★ Derorinman
| 2 | |||
Ogawayama Nishimatazawa Taigan Mara Iwa ・ Imouto Iwa | |||||
5.11c | ★★ Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo
| 20m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Kawakami Kouta
The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect. Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct. | 15m | |||
5.8 | ★ Santao XXX
The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout! Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt). | 15m | |||
5.12b | ★ Black Hole
A very intricate face climb. Start down low, left of a corner. Hard moves out of the hole lead to an easy but unprotected slab finish. | 20m | |||
5.10d | ★★ Irregular
The face left again on spaced staples. Good moves, but it's hard to stay cool. The first bolt is usually clipped by leaning in off the boulder. Start down between the boulder and face. Climb steeply up on sharp holds to the easier top slab, almost joining Regular at one point. Continue to a choice of lower-offs. | 20m | |||
5.10c | ★★ Regular
The next line to the left is much easier than it looks and very popular. Top to bottom, dot to dot. Lower off. A parallel line to the left was bolted and climbed several years ago. The bolts then disappeared for a few years, but were back in May 2007. 10c if you fancy. | 25m | |||
5.11c | ★★ Blues Power
The left arete of the back face of Mara Iwa. Superb. Take a Friend 2. Start on the boulder overlooking Keyhead etc. Step out left above the void and climb up left of the arete to a stiff pull back to the right. Continue in a sensational position to a lower-off at the top. | 15m | |||
5.12a | Juggernaut
A line to the left of Blues Power. Somewhat artificial and overshadowed by its neighbours, but still good. Start as for Blues Power. Step out left, then climb direct to a crack (you have to stay on the left of the arete) (apparently). Up this to a lower-off. | 25m | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Rocky Road
The right facing groove high and right on Mara Iwa. Start as for Blues Power. Make a scary traverse left into space, then climb up and pull into the groove (crux). Climb this in a superb position, then swing left at its top and move up and left to a flake/corner. Step up then pull out right and climb direct to the top and a choice of lower-off. | 25m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Cassiopeia Kidou
| 2 | |||
5.14b | ★★★ Petashiman /ペタシマン
| 40m | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Silk Road
| ||||
5.11a | ★★ JEEC route
| 17m | |||
Ogawayama Nishimatazawa Taigan Ani Iwa | |||||
5.10a | Tajan IV
| 22m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Crescent Moon Clip-up
maybe a little harder than graded | 22m | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Pikunikura
A very classic line that locals think is one of the best within the 5.10x range in Ogawayama. | 30m | |||
5.10d | ★★ Road to Eleven
| 30m | |||
5.13a | Mento kante /夫婦カンテ
the rocks were broken became hard | ||||
Ogawayama Nishimatazawa Taigan Chichi Iwa | |||||
5.9 | ★★★ Ogawayama Story
Fantastic route - straight up the white streak on the narrow slab. | 30m, 5 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Ogawayama Street
Another excellent route tot eh right of Ogawayama Story. Start a bit up and right of OS and straight up. The last bolts are a bit spaced, and crux at the top... | 26m, 5 | |||
5.10c | Ku wa kuraimā no ku
クはクライマーのク | 22m | |||
Ogawayama Nishimatazawa Taigan Saikoro Iwa | |||||
5.11d | Belle Vue
Lower section a little bit crumbly rock but very nice | 12m, 8 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Schloss Adler
Lower section a little bit crumbly rock but very nice | 12m, 6 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Saikoro Roof
| 12m, 4 | |||
5.11c | Secret
same anchor as No Access | 11m, 4 | |||
5.11a | ★★ No Access
same anchor as Secret | 11m, 4 | |||
Ogawayama Nishimatazawa Taigan Streamside | |||||
5.10a | Ikkyuu Soujishi e no Michi
| 15m | |||
5.12c | Reppuu
| 13m | |||
5.12b | ★★ Hototogisu
| 13m | |||
5.12a | ★★ Miyako Wasure
| 17m | |||
5.10a | ★★★ Love or Nothin'
| 18m | |||
5.12a | Uguisu Kagura
| 16m | |||
5.10a | ★ Pit Touch
| 13m | |||
5.11a | Hiyodori Jougo
| 14m | |||
5.10b | Audrey
| 14m | |||
5.10c | Ingrid
| 13m | |||
5.10b | Marlene
| 13m | |||
5.9 | Mamako no Shirinugui
| 7m | |||
Ogawayama Nishimatazawa Taigan Ototo Iwa | |||||
5.10c | ★ Mojiki Bakabon
| 10m | |||
5.10a | ★ Shitazumi Seikatsu
| 10m | |||
Ogawayama Karesawa Gamma Slabs | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Keroyon
An excellent route for the grade. Keroyon is the name of a cartoon frog. Start a short way up the gully to the right of the toe of the slab. Pull steeply left onto the slab, smear up then step right and climb direct parallel to Gamma Route on marvellous holds to a lower-off. The distance between the second and third bolts is quite far, but the climbing is very easy. | 25m | |||
5.9 | ★ Braveheart
More pleasant slab climbing, re-routed by the Bolt Police. Start just right of the flake of Gamma Pitch 2. Climb direct to its dike. Pull up the scoop as for Gamma, but pull out left below the belay onto a slab. Follow the bolted line direct to a good ledge with a lower-off. You can just get down on a 50m rope. | 27m | |||
5.10b | ★ Heart & Soul
Tasty slabbing with a spicy crux. Climb the flake as for Gamma Route pitch 2. From the dike climb direct by thin moves to a sloping mantel (using the white line of holds on the left makes it 10a; the pegs up and left take you off-route). From here, it is best to step right and finish up Braveheart (the line of bolts - this is 26m and you can just get down on a 50m rope), but it is also possible to continue right to the chains on Gamma Route at the top of pitch 2 or to keep going boldly but pleasantly in a direct line up the slab, veering left to the lower-off on KC's Banana Cake or right to that of Braveheart. | 27m | |||
5.10a | ★ KC's Banana Cake
A disjointed but fun slab route with a tricky finish. Start at a small slab down and left of the main slab. Climb the centre of this to a gully on the right. Stride across between the trees and climb the continuation line up the next slab to another ledge. Finish up the short steep face above (crux). If you're using a 50m rope, ab or lower off as far as possible to the right (facing in), then scramble carefully down trees and choss for the last few metres (you can just about ab to the first bolt to clean the route then swing right to easy ground). | 30m | |||
5.9 | Monban no Musume
A just worthwhile slab route taking a slanting line up the left edge of the lefthand slab. Pull onto the slab at twin bolts, then step left and follow the left edge of the slab to a faint overlap. Make tricky moves through this to better holds, then step up to a lower-off. | 13m |