Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Plus Belle La Vie | |||||
5c | ★ Berlingot
Good rest in the middle, good feet. | ||||
6a | ★★ Sortilege
Crux at the end. | ||||
5c | ★★ Reglisse
Some sloppers and a dihedral to finish. | ||||
5a | ★ Chocolat
Slab. | ||||
5a | ★ Chamalot
Short but steep finish. | ||||
5a | Malabar
Lots of rests. | ||||
5c | ★ Carambar
On poorer rock. | ||||
6a | ★★ Baby Lone
Some cracks. | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Les 3 Claudos
| ||||
5+ | ★★ Plus Belle La Vie
Good traversing start. | ||||
6a+ | CPE
Bouldery | 2 | |||
6a | Caramel
1
5a
2
6a
| 2 | |||
La Grotte | |||||
7a+ | ★ Generation Ecologie
A boulder move that will make you doubt! (broken hold?) Set: Laurent Jacob | 20m | |||
7b+ | ★ Safe Sex
A hard move that makes the route more intense. Set: Laurent Jacob | 20m | |||
8a | ★★ Scandale
Not too steep but lacking holds... Set: Laurent Jacob | 20m | |||
8a+ | ★ Youpala
A harder variation to Scandale. Set: Laurent Jacob | 15m | |||
7c+ | ★ Bienvenue au Club
Some reachy moves. Set: Laurent Jacob | 20m | |||
7b | ★★ Zarbi
Keep some for the end. Big moves on tufas, some crimps and a good rest in-between. Set: Laurent Jacob | 20m | |||
6b+ | ★★ Hot Spot
A popular warm up to get acquainted with the style of climbing in the cave. Polished. Set: Laurent Jacob | 18m | |||
7a | ★★ Indulgence
Cruisy with one moderately hard move on an undercling (that you can skip). Well bolted. Set: Laurent Jacob | 18m | |||
7b | ★★ Traquenard
Start on the left of the boulder (the name of the route is marked under the first bolt). Cruisy until a good rest, followed by a right-trending cruxy sequence. Set: Laurent Jacob | 20m | |||
7a+ | ★★ Conan le Barbare
Fun. One hard move to the top. Good rests in-between. Polished. Bien lustrée. Crux en haut mais de bons repos pour se refaire si besoin. Set: Marco Troussier | 20m | |||
7c+ | ★★ Le Clow Entre les Dents
Hard... Set: Marco Troussier | 20m | |||
8a+ | L'Inversé Satanique
A hold has broken. Bouldery. Go straight up into the dihedral. Set: Marco Troussier | 20m | |||
7c+ | ★★ 20 Ans Apres
Not often repeated despite some great moves. Set: Laurent Jacob | 20m | |||
7b+ | Oxygene
A must. Set: Robert Cortijo | 20m | |||
7c | Oxygene Directe
Beautiful route with a fingery section. | 20m | |||
7c+ | ★★★ 100% De Matiere Grasse
Sustained. Set: Marco Troussier | 20m | |||
7b | ★★ Charles De Goal
Starts on the easy juggy slab leading to a gulley. A steep classic of the cave with a crux guarding the top. | 15m | |||
7c+ | ★ Zovirax
A bit of a core move to start. Set: Marco Troussier | 25m | |||
8a+ | ★ L'Empire des Sens
Set: Robert Cortijo | 25m | |||
8b | ★★ La Vague
One of the longest lines here. | 25m | |||
7b+ | ★ Spinoza
Explosive start where feet often come off. Set: Marco Troussier | 15m | |||
8a | ★★ Spinoza Direct
Set: Marco Troussier | 20m | |||
7c+ | ★★ L'Invitation au Voyage
Almost legendary. Another classic of the cave. Set: Robert Cortijo | 20m | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Hueco
Very pretty line with a tufa to finish. Some say a bit committing at the top. Set: Marco Troussier | 20m | |||
8a | ★★ Shaoshing
Hard start and finger. All the best climbers used to try this route. Set: Marco Troussier | 20m | |||
8b | ★★ Théorème
Two big dynos. Set: Robert Cortijo | 20m | |||
8a+ | ★ Gradiva
| 20m | |||
7a+ | ★ L'Arche de Nausee
Hard sloppers on a left-trending traverse. Hard move to finish. | 20m | |||
7b | La Nausée de l'Arche
Variation of L'Arche de Nausée with a finish straight in the hole. | 20m | |||
8b | ★★ Terminator
Big compact overhang. Set: Robert Cortijo | 20m | |||
8c+ | ★★★ Le Super Plafond
FA: JB Tribout, 1994 | 20m | |||
8c | ★★★ Le Plafond
The route that made this place an international venue. In 1989, no 8c had been red pointed yet. French climber Alex Duboc was pretty close from sending but it's the British powerhouse Ben Moon who finally snatched the first ascent. Ben originally named the route Maginot Line in reference to a French strategic defeat during World War II, when the Germans successfully invaded France by going around the French defence line. In 1994, JB Tribout frees the extension and names it "La Lune dans le Caniveau" (Now "Super Plafond") which is a ridiculous translation of "Ben Moon" in French ("The moon in the sewer"). Set: Robert Cortijo FA: Ben Moon, 1989 | 20m | |||
7b+ | ★★ Zig Zag
Start on the boulder and step all the way to the left. The tufa leads to the chains. Set: Marco Troussier | 15m | |||
7c+ | ★★ Zig Zag Extension
Keep going all the way to the top... | 25m | |||
7c | ★★ 0% Matière Grise
A short and intense boulder problem. Better like drop knees. Set: Marco Troussier | 15m | |||
8b | ★★ Zelig
Careful walking to the start of this one. Complicated and bouldery. Set: Marco Troussier & Robert Cortijo | 20m | |||
8b+ | ★★ Zelig Crac Bottin
| 20m | |||
6c+ | ★ Zorro
Set: Robert Cortijo | 20m | |||
6a | ★ Cajolynn
A popular easy warm up on polished holds. Set: Reynaud & Delalonde | 20m | |||
6a+ | ★ La Revanche du Cade
A newer addition that is worth a go. | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Siurana
A pebble indicates the start but its marking is gone. A very cool pockety finish. Set: Reynaud & Delalonde | 20m | |||
5+ | ★ La Clara
Look for a little pebble marked "La Clara" for the start. Nice and safe. Watch for loose rocks, especially if you're belaying. Set: Robert Vial | 20m | |||
La Petite Grotte | |||||
7b | ★ Newlook
| ||||
8a+ | ★★★ Grottesque
If you're strong and scared of height Set: Laurent Jacob | 8m | |||
8a | ★★ Petit Test
Short and tough. | 8m | |||
7c+ | ★ Samourai
Short and tough. Set: Robert Cortijo | 8m | |||
7b | ★ Riders on the Storm
| 10m | |||
6b+ | ★ Consolidation
Must do. | 10m | |||
6b | ★ Les Estagnots
Focus until the end. | 10m | |||
6a | ★★ Bascule
Good slab. | 10m | |||
Botanique | |||||
5b | Verveine
Camomille variation | ||||
6a | Camomille
Set: J. Rospar & R. Vial FA: J. Rospar & R. Vial | 20m | |||
5a | Tilleul
Set: J. Rospar & R. Vial FA: J. Rospar & R. Vial | 20m | |||
5a+ | ★ Cactus
| ||||
5a | Romarin
Set: J. Rospar & R. Vial FA: J. Rospar & R. Vial | 20m | |||
5b | Lavande
Set: J. Rospar & R. Vial FA: J. Rospar & R. Vial | 20m | |||
4b | Cannabis
| ||||
4a | Basilic
| ||||
4b | Lotus
| ||||
Le bloc | |||||
Le pan de volx
| |||||
Laurie | |||||
6a+ | Les balcons
A difficult step midway. Pas retors au niveau du gros trou. | ||||
6c | ★ Laurie
Violent start. Des mouvement intenses au départ mais l'affaire est vite réglée. | ||||
6a | ★★ Coralis
Must do at the grade. Classique agréable. | ||||
6a | ★ Ping Pong
If Coraline is too busy. Chouette. Des gros trous partout! | ||||
Petit Buoux | |||||
4c | Beber a Bloc
| ||||
5b | The Bloc
| ||||
4c | La Schroufette
| ||||
6b | ★ Tatos
Good little dirty holds. Set: Laurendin | ||||
6c | ★ Degres
Clipping can be a little tricky. Set: Laurendin | ||||
7a+ | Billabong
Hard and tensiony. Set: Desdier | ||||
7a | Petit Buoux
| ||||
6c+ | Djin Bois Du
Set: Reynaud & Delalonde | ||||
7b+ | Gullivert
Set: Lioret | ||||
7c+ | Gargamel
Set: Laurent Jacob | ||||
7c | Caraibes
Set: Laurent Jacob | ||||
6a | Renfou-gne
| ||||
Exponentiel | |||||
7c+ | Exponentiel
Fingery. Set: Cortijo & Claveau | ||||
7b+ | Le Roi dans l'arene
Fingery. Set: Reynaud & Delalonde | ||||
7b | ★★ Ranx Herox
No easy traverse. Set: Cortijo & Claveau | ||||
7b | ★ Mamie Turbo
Bouldery. | ||||
6c | Clip
Good holds. Set: Laurendin & Delalonde | ||||
7b | Leo
Violent start. Set: Laurendin | ||||
7c+ | La mauvaise foi
Set: Robert Cortijo | ||||
6a+ | ★ Motivation
Good, slightly delicate traverse. Set: Robert Cortijo | ||||
Souffle Court | |||||
6a+ | ★ Fantasia
Ça se joue dans le haut. | ||||
6c | ★★ Reverie
Morpho start with a reachy LH. Départ plus évident pour les grands. Suite plus facile. | ||||
7b | Confessions
Fingery. Très à doigts sur petits arqués. Lecture cryptique… a note que le bloc du reta que l’on peut voir dans le topo a été purgé. | ||||
6c | Exterieur gris
No first bolt. Le premier point a été supprimé. |