Ascents in Lincoln Woods State Park by Sergey Komarov

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Sit start

Felt like actual progress.

Send.

Foot slipped but recovered.

Fell going to hueco. Right heel wasn't engaged correctly.

Did first moves and crux to warm up.

Just one attempt today. Was good!

Third send attempt.

Last go of the day.

Shouldn't have even tried, didn't make it far enough to try crux.

Second send attempt.

Went very well up to the crux deapoint. I was surprised to find myself stable enough to readjust the right heel nicely on the crimpiest part of the hold. As on the previous attempt, I fell after touching the hold. I felt that I applied better force through the heel, but it wasn't quite enough.

Right knee/iliotibial band was feeling well used after this. Fatigue there seems to be the limiting factor.

Repeat with new heel hook beta. Feels less marginal.

Repeat with old beta.

Warming up, remembering subtle beta.

Rehearsed the first couple of moves. There is a very small but sharp left foothold on the face, above the more obvious low one. It works surprisingly well, all the way to the sidepull.

Also rehearsed transition from sidepull to undercling. Last session's heel hook still seems good.

Also linked all moves from third hand move through the crux to wide right foot in the top out.

First send attempt.

Went very well up to the sidepull.

I confused some feet after getting the sidepull. This caused me to make too many moves and waste energy.

Recovered enough to attempt the crux deapoint. Fell after touching the hold. This was likely due to some combination of sagging hips and insufficient force through the heel.

???????

Worked out much better beta for moves into crux.

Did all the moves in 3 overlapping sections.

Tried working this after sending Loadies, but fingers didn't even want to pull on.

This was supposed to be a warm-up, but was too cold - it was in the shade.

Four tries today. Each was good - the first three went from the ground to dyno, but couldn't latch the edge.

The last go almost felt easy - everything just fell into place for a smooth send. Wasn't even out of breath at the top.

My best session yet.

On my best attempt, I went from the start to the dyno but somehow slipped from the huge jug.

My other attempts were not great. I kept falling off the second move, which usually feels easy for me.

Working first couple moves to warm up for Loadies Zen.

Somewhat different from beta described on mountain project: right hand to crimp, then bump right all the way to the top.

finally tried this classic.

very fun! did the ramp-less V3 variation.

Worked the top and made good progress. Did the top dyno and top out for the first time. The dyno felt easy when it finally worked.

Felt ready for send goes.

Now that I have done all the moves in two sections, I made an actual "attempt" at sending. I didn't do the dyno - I felt that I didn't have finger power, but that might have been psychological.

Lost too much skin to give more good burns.

Working again.

Got beta which seems to work for the big move. I need to practice it and go further right on the ledge.

The bottom didn't feel quite as good as last time, but still went. Got close on the dyno after moving to higher feet.

Ended session with a bleeder.

Trying out some of the moves as a potential future project. Most moves feel too hard for me today, but would be fun otherwise.

This felt like really good progress. The only move I didn't do was the dyno to the jug.

Feels like it could go this season if the weather holds out..

Decided to have only 2 attempts today. More is likely to just burn skin.

On both attempts I touched the crucial hold but didn't latch it.

Reasonable amount of progress. Need to work out how to get feet off the block.

Tried to pull on... Very sloper. Looks hard

Finally sent this one after working it a bit more.

Beta:

• start on obvious hands hand small right foot, back-flagging left
• left hand to upper portion of first hold on arete
• left foot to crimp left of arete
• dynamically shift weight to left foot and right hand. almost a drive-by.
• flag/smear right foot while inching to lip

Can make the big dead point reliably. Couldn't actually latch the hole. Seems like good progress.