Ascents in Montesa by Dominik

Before reaching the tufa there is already quite a stretch to pass a relatively blank section.

The lower part of the tufa is still good, but the upper part was really hard - at least if you don't want to wander into the other routes that are really close.

After a number of different holds for both hands and feet, I eventually found a combination and sequence through the tufa. But it was quite hard (6b+/c?).

Found a new beta: jumping to the big hole with the left hand. That felt quite good and is way easier than trying to get there with the right hand.

I can imagine that this was graded 7a+ with the right hand beta in mind. But with the left hand beta it's maybe only 6c+...?

Stuck the dynamic start move on the second go, the rest went smoothly.

Same(?) awkward and hard(!) start as the 7a+ to the right. The pockets then are alright.

No chance on the crux... =(

Got on this by accident thinking this was the 6b to the left.

Awkward start. I ended up jumping for the pocket above the first bolt. Then a few easy pockets. The crux is nails hard. Couldn't do it and had to pull on the draw.

I thought the first step actually quite hard for being just a 4.

First a ladder, then one awkward move into the diedro, then a walk to the top. And the rope scratches a lot over rock and rope when coming down.

Doing this on lead today. It went quite okay and I figured out the upper bit from second draw onwards - with rests though.

The move to get off the ground seems still way out of reach. Tried it as shoulder move today, but still no chance. Aided again.

Tried it a second time on toprope. Although knowing the sequence now, I couldn't execute everything without sitting on the rope.

Already quite hard from the start. But the sequence across the bulge really kills me. Eventually found a beta that might work. But still so hard. Not a 6b+ in my book. Even hard for 6c I'd say:

Finally got this one done. Good, I looked up the sequence at the end before the climb!

Too close to vegetation.

Using the monodedo. Not nice, but it worked.

Very hard start. Couldn't get past the monodedo to reach the left-hand crimp. Aided it and got through the next couple of moves. Struggled again with the move to the ledge.

Cloudy and windy today in Montesa. Perfect conditions and good friction to send this route today.

The route is alright. But the anchor ring is a mess. It's smeared all over with the resin from the glue-in bolts, so you may want to use it with care.

The only difficulty is the short overhang before the anchor. Lower part a bit dirty.

The warm-up climb today. Has a tricky section midway

One hard section. Alex and Falko gave me the right hints to do it on first try.

Jugs, but you get pumped.

After the unsuccessful shots at the two 6a+'s, this was a welcome change. Pleasant route on good and big holds. Very rewarding and good last climb of the day.

Had another go. I'm not really enjoying myself on this one. I feel awkward and in the wrong position all the time while climbing it. Got till the mono but didn't have the juice to clip the chains.

Beta for myself for next time: When going left towards the mono, stay as low as possible. With left hand into the mono as undercling - try to get a comfortable stance. Clip chains from there.

The overhang is nice. The rest is average.

Seems like a disproportionally hard start for a 6a+. Couldn't do the moves and had to use quickdraws. Thereafter significantly easier. Not a 6a+ for me.

Couldn't even get off the ground =(

Couldn't even get off the ground =(

Supposed to be the easy last climb of the day. But the fingers already hurt too much

After a number of unsuccessful tries to get off the ground, I eventually reached the ledge. Would be more enjoyable and balanced if the start was a bit easier

Figuring out the sequence. Very hard but now I see a light at the end of the tunnel.

Tight forearms at the end. Should have sent this one.

Varied climbing, but way to short

Aided from last bolt to anchor. The anchor seems put in a bad place in my opinion