Ascents in Frog Buttress by Matthew Robbins

Well, that was unexpected. 🤷‍♂️

Having barely climbed in Europe was aiming just to reacquaint with gear and beta with the hope of a decent link. Ended up accidentally sending it on top rope solo.

Scratching an itch that’s been with me since late last year. Glad to say this thing is bloody brilliant!

Text book example of why I think the mid-20s grades at Frog are where some of its best climbing is: sustained, graceful and technical climbing where the crack is only really there for pro.

All moves -2 free and linked from ground to halfway. Maybe 75% of the gear sorted? Probably need another two size-1 ball nuts to make it sane. Will be a pink point route for me, gear finicky af to place on lead.

Big gear would have been nice but honestly fine without it. Two #4’s made it tame.

Much better than expected!

Definitely in the “why the hell would you climb that” list. Kinda enjoyed it!

Probably in the 5 worst things I’ve been on haha

Ran out of draws so clipped a cam to a wire as a makeshift quickdraw. Thats some big brain shit I tell you!

Very close now, all moves free/one sit and doing red point attempts. Just need to stick one move and it’s over. Out of skin again, time to wait another week.

Clean link from finger crack all the way to the end so some decent progression. Rib barely gave any trouble as well! Absolutely zero skin for a Red-Point shot but feels to be closing in.

Gear rescue + stonkers recon.

Wild One Lite.

A teeny grunt or two popped out but overall very reasonable and only pseudo-offwidth. Reputation is undeserved in my opinion.

The true way… finally did the offwidth! 😂

Superb arete whackin' 👌

Delicate and sublime. Deserves more attention!

Definitely needs big gear (5/6s) as the small pro deep in the crack is worthless. Tactical down climb to come back with some more sensible pro.

Felt completely reasonable until tying in on lead and having the single crux move re-trigger the core injury. Had to back off, was a little optimistic trying this 🤷‍♂️

Fantastic! Keen for the lead burn 😍

Pulled through the crux on the onsight only to have a foot pop from the 2pm sun spooge. A little heart-breaking but it happens.

Low crux felt fine but was fighting entire body flash pump the whole way! Maybe not the right choice as a warm up 😂

Several more crux moves linked and a clean link post crux to nearly the end. Relaxed briefly to rest on a flared jam at the top and popped out… A good lesson to learn.

Sat for the surgical removal of a wayward cam.

HEX BINGOOOOOO

One of the final stages of my quest to send everything on the Infinity wall.

I think it’s actually a damn good route! Sure it’s committing and hecking runout but the fall, while mega, would be totally safe. Pack your pilots license before you tie in.

If the bolt was easily visible and/or a ring, it would fast be a bit of a classic. It doesn’t need to change though as it would detract from Infinity’s mightiness.

Tried some suggested beta and immediately freed the section that was blocking the route from being doable! 😍

34 star birthday climbing day with hipyhop. 16 pitches, all clean, approx 450 vertical metres.

Started at 6am and finished at 3ish with a one hour lunch/coffee break and lots of faffing around. Really enjoyed getting on some new stuff but I probably should have picked some harder climbs! 😅

The big question... Does it earn its one star?

Well, it's a rock climb and I do like the rock climbs. So yeah, I guess so!

I didn't manage any progression on the single move blocking this route from being doable. First time being frustrated by a climb in a very, very long time.

Going to ignore the results this session as it was the third day of projecting and body was fatigued. Will come back when well rested and with a clear head.

Showing Rachel the finest (ok, only) roof on offer at Frog.

Wild one top rope access lap.

Opening a new account. Aided most of the route to learn the gear and then had a play on top rope. Gear sorted, most moves free plus several links done. Wasn’t quite able to get the crux move free but I think it’d be doable when rested and fresh.

And account closed! Pretty stoked to get the pink point on the 3rd lead tie in.

Blew the Lego brick catch on two attempts and then breezed up third shot; no power screams required, just pure flow.

I may come back for a red point but for now happy to have finished off a Frog 25 so early in the season.

Fantastic, sustained climbing that is only marred by a runout with ground fall potential 1/3rd of the way up.

PS: Take lots of small gear, I used 4x red and green dragonflies.

Movement and gear reminder runs. Clean to crux, fell once and then climbed through.

Edging was trickier and less sensitive using the Air Tommies, Miura's definitely the beta.

Time to tie in!