Ascents as Pink point as trad by Matthew Robbins

Cruise.

Getting cleaner and cleaner.

1 lap for a warmup and then a comfy pink point. Trying to link Disbelief into Birth Canal turns out to be fiercely pumpy.

A cheeky trad 25(?) to close the year out. 2 tie ins for beta, 3 to send (a low percentage body wiggle crux).

Feel like there isn’t really a difference in difficulty here with pre placed gear… and cleaning the roof between attempts would be a pain in the arse. Happy to walk away with a pink point and a giant crack gobie as a prize.

Very cool roof trench with minimal off widthing!

A stonker of a trad line!

Whipped on the crux of P1 and broke a fragile flake that was wedged into some dirt. Cleaned up the dirt and loose rock and it opened up into a small hand crack… which probably make P1s crux a bit easier?

Sent P1 comfortably on 2nd tie in with gear/beta knowledge and without the pressure of trying to onsight.

P1 only, linked into the HB variant.

Stoked to put down one of my dream lines. What an absolute masterpiece of a crack!

The send is a little bittersweet as I came off right at the chains on the onsight when going to the final hand jam… I gave it my all (zero warmup) but didn’t quite nail it 🤷‍♂️

I was so flash pumped from jamming I couldn’t open or close my hands for 5 minutes.

The pink point burn was absolute flow and went down quickly. It sounds a little silly but a pink point doesn’t quite feel respectful to the climb, will need to come back for a redpoint 😅

Delicate and sublime. Deserves more attention!

And account closed! Pretty stoked to get the pink point on the 3rd lead tie in.

Blew the Lego brick catch on two attempts and then breezed up third shot; no power screams required, just pure flow.

I may come back for a red point but for now happy to have finished off a Frog 25 so early in the season.

Fantastic, sustained climbing that is only marred by a runout with ground fall potential 1/3rd of the way up.

PS: Take lots of small gear, I used 4x red and green dragonflies.

Finally! 5 sessions, 5x laps of BBB and 18 or so tie ins. 😅

First things first, the grade….

I’m grading/proposing 25 but consider it on the soft end of the grade depending on height/reach. If you have a sub 195cm span that initial move into the roof might be brutal 🤷‍♂️ (I'm 199/200 and can just reach)

Blueies locals and the 2nd FFA should definitely give feedback on grade so it can be confirmed or adjusted.

So here’s my rationale for grade 25:

• Very beta intensive; once it was dialed it was a matter of executing and being mindful of all the micro beta. The actual effort output felt comparable to Screaming Insanity at Coolum.
• It’s comparable to, but a step or two above, Two Men Enter (24) at Flinders Peak QLD, which took me two shots.
• I’ve put down a number of sport 23 and 24s in 1-3 shots the past few months, this took 8 pink point attempts.

Just so damn psyched that I could add a sweet roof crack smack in the middle of one of the Blueies most famous multi pitches.

I really do think the movement on this makes it a classic; from the absurd long reach move into the roof, the cut loose, the inversion and a dead point to a hand jam…. it’s novel, climbs very well and the gear is primo. 👌

Thanks to John and Ondra who enthusiastically did several laps up BBB with me and to everyone who tolerated my frothing about this random roof crack I saw over a year ago.

(PS: any future ascenionists, shoot me a message if you want gear beta so you don’t have to carry the whole rack up BBB)

Kachoong walk of shame.

Not going to lie, thought this was going to be an onsight as the crack looked good but instead it was a humbling

Punchy little number which turned out to be a face climb with a crack for pro.

Derped up start and had to come down and start again off a single cam.

Because I cant jam, face climbed and lay backed it, adding probably 3 grades in the process! Classic frogs!

First sport climb in a while. Easy start with a cool move reaching up to a sloper-jug a bit over halfway up the climb. Nice crimpers to finish it off.