Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Castellwand | ||||||
7- | ★ David - with thedark | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Ankatalwand Untere Ankatalwand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Maria Hilf! - with thedark | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7+ | ★★ Hans Bieringer Gedenkweg - with thedark | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Preßknockwände | ||||||
4+ | ★ R1 - with KP | 18m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Obvious line along the arête, good climbing.
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6- | ★★★ Adler-Route - with KP | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Nice little climb with crux in the obvious place. Going a little left helps.
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Loreleyblock | ||||||
8- ~8- | ★ Every Turn Is a Sign of Fear - with Daniel | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Short but not too bad. Decent rock, good finish.
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6+ ~6+ | ★ Alter Schlingenweg - with Daniel | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
It's not entirely clear, but it sure seems like the easiest way up is starting with this one, then traversing to the right into "Alter Weg". Finishing directly up here is nice, though, too.
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Altbabawand | ||||||
6 | Opas 80ster - with KP | 14m | Average | |||
Not the most logical line, too close to the chimney in the upper part.
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Fri 12th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Katzenbuckel Westwand | ||||||
6- | Weigelshofer Weg - with Harald | 14m | Average | |||
Hard, splintery start, walking terrain in the middle, weird, splintery dihedral at the top.
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Wilhelmsfels | ||||||
6+ | ★★ PauMaj&MaxAmé - with KP | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Not exactly an obvious line but good climbing along the bolts with interesting rock structure.
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Dooser Wand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Querulant - with Ellen | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Nice traverse, always aiming for that last dihedral on the very left, passing another obvious opportunity to go up ("Mother's Finest"). Technical moves in black rock except for the athletic start.
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Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Paradiestal Paradieswand | ||||||
7- | ★ Fachkräftemangel - with David X | 11m | ★ Good | |||
5+ | ★ HM1-Weg - with David X | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5 | Mini Pfeiler - with David X | 9m | Don't Bother | |||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Lustige Zaubererwand Left | ||||||
6- | ★ a Klans - with Daniel | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Spies Spieser Wand | ||||||
7 | ★ Rechte Nordwand - with mb | 12m | Average | |||
Short climb, distinct boulder crux involving a mono. You have to clip from the mono, too, if you don't want to risk a nasty fall (there was a sling in a pocket at some point, but it has been cut out and the remainder of the sling is still in there, so you can't thread new material).
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Fri 2nd Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Moby Dick | ||||||
6- 6 | Immer mit dem Ring - with Markus Benning | 14m, 5 | ||||
A little contrived. If you climb the chimney by stemming, you can clip either this route's bolts or the ones of "Eliane im Lärchenwald". I stayed a bit on the left and climbed the offwidth, which was fun.
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8- | Die weiße Spinne - with Markus Benning | 14m, 7 | ||||
Short powerful section after the ledge, clipping the bolts is the hardest part.
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5- 6- | Eliane im Lärchenwald - with Markus Benning | 14m, 6 | ||||
Nice little chimney exercise, nowhere near 6- if you use the right technique.
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Radan Švec Gedenkwand | ||||||
5+ | ★ Böhmische Kante - with Ellen | 10m | ★ Good | |||
5+ | ★ Česká láska - with Ellen | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 19th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Neuhauser Wand | ||||||
7- | ★★ Karschter Eck - with Christoph Straubmeier | 10m | Average | |||
Good jug haul, then one hard move to gain the slab. A little wedged in, or rather, I'm not even sure this is actually a different route than "Madrock Corner".
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Sat 28th Jan 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Pavian | ||||||
4 | ★ Südkante | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, juggy arête. The holds on the west side of the needle were completely iced up, which made it a bit spicy. On the other hand, the chossy blocks were frozen tight, so there was no danger of falling rocks. :-D #jahreserste2023
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Fri 30th Dec 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Würgau Kreuzstein | ||||||
6 | Gino Soldà Gedenkweg (Gino Solda Gedenkweg) - with Markus Benning | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
#lastrouteoftheday with headlamp. The start is tricky and hard to protect. There's a good nut, but the hardest moves are so far above it that you'd probably hit the ledge in the event of a fall. A little detour to the right might make it more manageable.
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
6 | ★★ R6k - with KP | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Starts together with R6, then draws to the left. Nice little slab traverse, then easy up to the dihedral. Tricky and slightly powerful finishing moves get you to the jugs.
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Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Dreistaffelfels Left | ||||||
4+ | ★ R2 - with asn | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Easy stroll up to the dihedral, then nice bridging with good holds up to a sling and left to the anchor.
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Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Almoser Wand | ||||||
7- | ★ Kante - with mb | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Nice little arête, the vegetation in your back is a little distracting.
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Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Holzgauer Wand Left | ||||||
6- 6 | ★★ Linke Verschneidung - with David X | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice, straightforward dihedral, the hardest part is the overlap in the beginning. Good rock. A little shorter than the other routes here.
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Wed 20th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Frankendorf Dragonerwand | ||||||
6 | ★ Simon Müller Gedenkweg - with Markus Benning | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice dihedral line with a diagonal traverse at the end. Relatively good rock (sure, relatively speaking), hard to clean, it's best to to thread the rope once more at the book case if you don't have a second.
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7- | ★ Waldemar Engel Gedenkweg - with Markus Benning | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing in dubious rock. Enjoyable if you pull carefully. The last bolt before the ledge in the middle sits in a hollow flake. A little harder than Klöpfel-Nord.
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7- | Klöpfel-Nord - with Markus Benning | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Considering that the whole crag is a pile of choss (but in a … good way?), this might be the most solid and the most attractive line here. Quite varied; great crack in the lower third, then a powerful overhang, a little wall climbing and a (ok, it's chossy …) slab to the top.
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Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Emporwand | ||||||
7- | ★ Fröschliweg - with Harald | 16m, 4 | Average | |||
Hard to read. Small holds in good, black rock. Not easy for the grade, but that might also be due to the dust on the holds.
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Schwalbenstein | ||||||
8- | ★ Bordsteinschwalbe - with Ellen | 15m | ★ Good | |||
The good fingerlock in the crux makes it relatively easy for the grade, especially compared to the rest of the 8s here. Careful on the way to the second bolt. Good line along the overhanging crack. Ends on the ledge, you can either finish with "Berglustweg" or "Südwand".
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Streugut | ||||||
8 | Schwer isd's - with Markus Benning | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Short wall to a no-hands rest on the ledge, then steep jugs on the fridge-sized block. It seems like the whole chunk has moved down a few centimeters over the last years, judging from the absence of lichen and broken rock shards between the block and the rest of the wall. That seems to have caused the smaller block on top to become loose. If you pull hard on it, it tilts towards you … this could end deadly. From there, it's quite a hard boulder with high heel hooks and kneebars left and right. Once you've clipped the fourth bolt, it's basically over but the moss keeps the rock damp, so it was still a challenge …
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7- | ★★ Alter Weg - with Markus Benning | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite the Franconian jug showpiece. Nice line, needs to be done much more often to get rid of the lichen on the holds. A little runout with a shoelace through a rock tunnel to ease the mind.
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7- | ★ Alte Schule - with Markus Benning | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing, the third bolt is a bit too high in my opinion. Interesting pocket puzzle from the ledge in perfect rock. Unfortunately, as for all routes here, the top is a little overgrown.
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7+ | ★ Alte Hasen - with Markus Benning | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Boulder problem from the ledge, a few moves in good rock, the rest is a little awkward.
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Fri 22nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Hanni Kerschbaum Gedenkwand | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Unnamed - with Markus Benning | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super sharp, rough holds (you almost can't slip out of the pockets) and great line and climbing. Easy layback start, then onto the arête and into the pocketed headwall. Quite straightforward. The last bolt before the anchor is awkwardly placed, but you can safely clip late.
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Ittlinger Wand | ||||||
5- | ★★ R5 - with mantra | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Juggy route that stays just to the right of the dihedral.
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7 | ★ R4a - with mantra | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice route, but I made a fatal mistake of trying to go a bit to the right of the bolt at the crux, which turned out to be quite hard. And on top of that, I realized I had to traverse to the left, with holds for neither hands nor feet. I felt quite stupid, because the others were talking about going to the left in that place.
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6 | ★ R9 - with mantra | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Little dihedral to the ledge, then up the chimney a little to the sharp arête.
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7+ | ★ Gsuacht aber schee - with mantra | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
The first bolt is in an uncomfortable position. Even more uncomfortable are the sharp pockets directly afterwards. But since you can step out to the right wall, it gets easier quickly. Crux is to get onto the final slab, on tiny, sharp crimps.
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Wed 23rd Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Weiße Wand | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Kontrastprogramm - with KP | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Brilliant line that draws up almost diagonally. It's exclusively wall climbing on crimps and pockets, the variety indicated in the name comes from the different rock structures. Starts off with sharp, almost crystalline dolomite crimps and pockets, then the edges get duller and duller, culminating in a short, smooth wall with slopers and bad feet (smearing is paramount). Finally some sidepulls and edges in black rock to the anchor. I knew this last part already from the combination I climbed last time. 4 no-hands rests, so not too exhausting, but lots of places to mess up. #lastrouteoftheday
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Magdalenenwand | ||||||
7+ 7 | ★ Hubertus Heinikel Gedenkweg - with David X | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not the best #warmup (it's a good route, of course!), but the only one you get. It starts off fair enough with a nice dihedral, then traverses to the left into the headwall of "Paraspruzzi", which turns out to be quite tough. Felt much harder than 7.
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Fri 18th Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Ebermannstadt Wohlmuthshüller Wand | ||||||
6- 6 | ★★ Kantenclown - with Johannes Seitz | 11m | ||||
Nice arête in the upper part, bummer that it's so short. Maybe I'll give it a quality rating once it's clean enough. ;-)
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8- | ★ Brazilian Butt Lift - with Manu | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Awesome finger lock at the crux, but seems like I'm the only one using this opportunity. Quite balancy at the start. The upper wall is easier, with one longer reach after the ledge.
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Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Burglesau Burglesauer Wand und Vortürme Burglesauer Wand | ||||||
6+ | ★ Simon Müller Gedenkweg - with David X | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good line that follows smaller cracks with short sections of wall climbing on small holds.
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Sat 12th Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Weihersbachtal Dromedar | ||||||
8 8- | ★★★ Snob - with Tobias | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great wall climbing, freshly rebolted. Extraordinary slab passage after the no-hands rest. Stood there for ages before committing to the beta that Tobias used, which barely worked and felt certainly harder than 8-, I would say at least 8. The sentiment was shared by other (much stronger) climbers at the crag, who hesitated just as long there. Getting to the anchor after that is still not easy and feels insecure. #warmup
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Sun 6th Mar 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Schwalbenstein | ||||||
6- | ★ Berglustweg - with Alex | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting passage around the arête before the anchor.
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Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Hühnerstein | ||||||
3+ 4 | ★★ Jon's Capel - with mb | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Actually quite a nice, easy and juggy slab. #warmup
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Engelhardsberg Quackenschloss | ||||||
6+ | ★ R3 - with Alex | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Climbed this one wearing cloth gloves. Nice rock structure between the first two bolts (and several ways of protecting that section), then up onto the arête, which was surprisingly devoid of good holds. By that point both hands and feet had gone completely numb (because this part of the crag was a bit more exposed to the wind and it was around -2 °C), but the protection was good so I just pushed on. Against all odds, I reached the anchor.
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Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Röthenbacher Wand | ||||||
8+ | ★ Zeitfenster - with mantra | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Straight up the centre of the white face, following a faint crack that runs out in the middle, which is also where the hardest moves await. Just stole mantra's beta, which worked out nicely.
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6+ | ★★ Georg Meier Gedenkweg - with mantra | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, natural line in great, white rock. Interesting passage at the start of the traverse and nice pocketed finish.
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Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Röthenbacher Turm | ||||||
8- | ★ Eigenlob stinkt - with mantra | 8m | Average | |||
New route. Very short, bouldery, and not too worthwhile in comparison to the other routes here.
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Sat 9th Oct 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Bärenschluchtwände Bärenschluchtwände | ||||||
6 | ★ Pony - with Daniel | 14m | ★ Good | |||
One of the easiest routes here, but the finish is not easy for the grade. The holds are smooth and the bolts are quite spaced.
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Tue 14th Sep 2021 - Krk | ||||||
Portafortuna Sector D | ||||||
4a | ★★ Bašćanska direkt - with Bovist | 30m | ★ Good | |||
One balance slab move in the middle, a few longer bolt distances in easy terrain. Nice #lastrouteoftheday.
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Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Freibadwand | ||||||
5 | R10 - with Bovist | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 25th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Herzwand | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Herzflimmern - with Ellen | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Hard to read section after the first bolt, a few good rest positions up top and nice pocket climbing to the anchor.
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7+ | ★★ Corazón Espinado - with Ellen | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another good one. Similar to "Löwenherz", actually, with a pumpy start, then an easier middle section and a redpoint crux towards with a two-finger pocket and some smaller holds. I used the "wrong" beta but it still didn't feel like 8.
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6+ | ★★ Aorta - with Ellen | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice #warmup in perfect rock.
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8- | ★★★ Löwenherz - with Daniel | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great showpiece for Frankenjura pocket hauling. One hard move in the lower overhang (at least the way we did it), then basically a no-hands rest, and another little overhang with smaller holds that is hard to read. Luckily I knew where the holds were from Daniel's ascent.
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7 | ★★ Bypass - with Ellen | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Follows the flake that pulls up after the third bolt of "Aorta" into a little bouldery sequence to the anchor. Also nice.
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Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Lochbergwände | ||||||
6- | ★ Eckwirtschaft - with Bovist | 9m | ★ Good | |||
A tiny bit steeper than the rest of the routes, nice moves at the second bolt.
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Wed 30th Jun 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Lochturm | ||||||
6+ 6 | ★ Nordriss - with Harald | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Good line (even though I would claim it's facing west, not north :-D) with two distinct cruxes, at the start and at the last bolt. Hard for the grade, I'd say it's 6+.
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Sat 8th May 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Truppachwand | ||||||
5- | Only Beginners - with Daniel | 9m | Don't Bother | |||
Well, meh. Not sure if you're inspiring motivation in a beginner with such a route.
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Mon 3rd May 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Wolkenkuckucksheim | ||||||
8- 7+ | ★★ Putzteufelchen - with Markus Benning | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Perfect warmup if you want to call it that, getting harder with each meter. Long draws are recommended. Crux is the last bulge. Felt more like 8-. Beautiful climb!
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8+ | ★★ Simons Riss - with Markus Benning | 30m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
We didn't climb the original start, but rather the one of "Weg ins Licht" since the original is hopelessly dirty and easy anyway. If you extend some bolts there, you basically get a perfect line (merge at the third bolt of Simons Riss) without much drag. Almost virgin rock even after almost 20 years. Great technical crack with some nasty jams (well, if you decide to jam), sustained until the end.
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Sat 1st May 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Loreleyblock | ||||||
6+ | Alter Weg - with Luisa | 10m | ||||
Forgotten route on the backside. This was actually the first and only route here for a long time. Astonishingly hard, maybe the pegs were reached using a human pyramid back in the day? Already marked as overgrown in the 1964 Bühler guide, hence the grade "V" has never received an upgrade. It's a veritable boulder through a steep overhang. And after reaching the pegs, it's still a few moves of hard climbing before it eases off. Definitely among the hardest summits in Franken.
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Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Langenstein | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Flockentanz - with Bovist | 11m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty nice; shallow dihedral with sharp, small pockets into a perfect layback section that should be much longer!
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Thu 22nd Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Sonnwendwände Sonnwendwand | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Eine Frage der Zeit - with Harald | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Might be the best route of the crag. Long, relatively homogeneous, varied, with some tricky sections, almost perfect rock even though it doesn't look like it from below. The pockets before the end can make you nervous!
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Sun 18th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Sonnwendwände Forchheimer Sektionswand | ||||||
8 | ★ Ambivalenzia - with Gunter | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Quite nice, actually. A cool crossover move in the first half, then crux in the overhang, which I laybacked. #warmup
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7+ | ★ Tunnel of Love - with KP | 11m | Average | |||
Weird and somewhat chossy first half, then a short boulder between the third and fourth bolts and jugs to the anchor.
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Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Leienfelser Türmchen | ||||||
5- | ★ Was guckst du - with Bovist | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Jugfest with runout to the summit after the second bolt. It gets easier up top, though.
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Rote Kante | ||||||
8+ | ★★ Roter Teufel - with Daniel | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One move wonder crux after the easy start, depends on if you can pull on the small, bumpy crimp and maintain body tension to get up to the pocket. The 8- that follows is still demanding, both technical and sustained. Good line and rock quality, too.
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7 | ★★ Trojaner - with Daniel | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looks quite featureless from below and it turns out to be quite stiff indeed. Took me a good while to find the good hold. The overhang in the end is comparatively easy. Nice route.
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6 | ★★ Sunroof Talk - with Daniel | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice warmup, the crack is still a bit dirty but there are enough holds to climb it as a dihedral. Nice black rock.
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7+ | ★ Fleisch ist mein Gemüse - with Daniel | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Not easy to climb the crack to the first bolt. Didn't have it preclipped, but the draw was already in, which helped. The rest of the route is best climbed a little on the left, which makes the new warmup route there a little irritating, feels so close … the line looks more promising than the climb eventually is, but it's still nice if you disregard that.
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7 | Rotschopf - with Daniel | 8m | Average | |||
Short, burly crack with awkward moves.
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Wed 31st Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hartenstein Zimmerbergwände Hinterer Teil | ||||||
5+ | ★ Höhlenrisse | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Nice crack dihedral.
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Sun 28th Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Jakl Kilian Gedenkwand | ||||||
7 | ★ Unnamed 1 - with Harald | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Goes up the little pillar to the left of "RKG" (sharing the start of the latter). The difficulty is compressed to a few moves between the second and third bolt, but it's a nice, bouldery route.
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Sat 6th Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Großer Mönch | ||||||
6 | ★ Anton-Böhm Gedenkweg | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Quite good, actually. Relatively many bolts, but hardware store quality. The anchor sits far in the back, it's best if you abseil (or walk down). Ironically, there's a book case on top despite it not being a tower. Put in a new book.
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Tue 2nd Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Brocksfels | ||||||
7+ 8- | ★★ Transall - with Jenny | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice climbing along the arête, the rock is a bit brittle in some places, but not problematic. Easy for the grade, I'd say 7+. #lastrouteoftheday
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Sun 28th Feb 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Heidelberg | ||||||
6 | ★ Enzian - with Markus Benning | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Quick one before sunset. Hard move on a sloper at the third bolt. #lastrouteoftheday
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7 | ★★ Für Heike - with Markus Benning | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looks daunting from below, but turns out there are amazing slit-like holds in the middle. Hard finish on roundish sidepulls.
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6 | Veilchenweg - with Markus Benning | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
The first 6 meters are actually quite good, slab with sidepulls and little flakes. But after the second bolt, the route basically turns into choss, moss and foliage, without further protection. Maybe it's best to stop there, even though it's really short then. #warmup
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Sun 14th Feb 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Burglesau Stephansturm & Dreitorspitze | ||||||
4+ | ★ Zwockel - with Bovist | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Careful before the first bolt. Nice and easy slab climbing. #barefoot
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Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Immer-Höher-Turm | ||||||
7 | ★ Sei Mutisch - with Bovist | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Can't really claim the onsight here, I knew that there was a dyno involved. And quite the huge dyno for the grade! Built up momentum as much as I could and barely reached the target jug.
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Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Sonnwendwände Forchheimer Sektionswand | ||||||
6+ 6- | ★★ Wilde Tilde - with Markus | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice pocketed slab with one hard section in the middle. #secondascent
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Fri 11th Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Schlötterturm | ||||||
7+ | ★ Nordostwand - with KP | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good wall climbing along a relatively closed crack line, but with some pockets.
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Fri 11th Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Endorama | ||||||
7+ | ★ Füsslischauer - with KP | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Nice crack climbing with crux at the end of the crack towards the anchor. Jamming your foot in the crack is not the worst idea!
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Fri 31st Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Schweigelstein | ||||||
6+ | Unknown - with KP | 14m | Average | |||
Better don't touch the big flake after the first bolt. It's not needed anyway. Nice crack moves after the second bolt. Careful at the top, still lots of loose material there, including a massive block above the crack.
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Fri 31st Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Aussiedlerstein | ||||||
8- | ★ Das Loch in der Banane - with KP | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Great moves on the arête, quite bouldery. I probably didn't find the easiest solution … Easy finish.
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Tue 28th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schiefer Tod | ||||||
8 | ★ Leichenschmaus - with Markus | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Not even half bad! Tricky to the third bolt, nice moves in the dihedral. The clipping hold for the fourth bolt is a loose wedge, don't pull too hard. #warmup
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Tue 14th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Zaunsbachtal Fuchsloch | ||||||
7+ | Hummelsteinerkante - with Harald | 17m | Average | |||
Good start through the dihedral, then quite a tough traverse around the corner. The rest is easy, vegetated and slightly brittle, though. #warmup
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7+ | ★ Sichel - with Harald | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Aesthetic line up the front of the weird pillar. Elegant climbing, airy finish.
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7 | ★★ Uwe Schwarz Gedenkweg - with Harald | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Nice layback crack. A bit short.
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8- | ★ Sollenberger Weiße - with Harald | 12m | Average | |||
Hard start, then relatively homogeneous (around 6+) after the second bolt. #lastrouteoftheday
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Fri 10th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | ||||||
7- | ★★ Direkte Südwestwand - with Simon | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit crumbly at the start, but good rock from the ledge. Even a bit polished in the middle (crux section on smaller holds). Interesting moves and a great juggy finish.
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Sat 4th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Pulverfass | ||||||
8- | ★★ Ein cooler Weg... - with Ellen | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Crux down low around the second bolt, on uncomfortable holds (I didn't see a relatively good pocket, though). Otherwise homogeneous wall climbing in good rock with a juggy overhang finish.
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Fri 26th Jun 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Bindelwand | ||||||
4+ | ★ Kurze Rampe - with Harald | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Much more solid than it looks from below. A nice stroll, but you should add some nuts in the top part if you're unsure.
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