Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tue 28th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Jakl Kilian Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Kilian Gedenkweg
- with
Revo
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 4 |
★ Holdieweg
- with
Revo
| 30m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 19th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Bleisteinwand | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Zirkel
- with
Alex
| 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 4th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | ||||||
| 8 |
★★ Kalauer
- with
thedark
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Ankatalwand Untere Ankatalwand | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★ Maria Hilf!
- with
KP
| 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Dooser Wand | ||||||
| 7- |
★ FSK 30
- with
Jeni
| 11m | Average | |||
| Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Turm | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Nordostkamin
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Starenfels | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Thermik
- with
Ellen
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Sprungstein | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Westkante
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Direkte Südwestwand
- with
KP
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ Freundschaftsweg
- with
matzka
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Tue 26th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Mostviel - Affalterthal Mostvieler Kletterblock | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Geißlerriss
- with
KP
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Roter Mönch | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Enzianriss
- with
Harald
| 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 20th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Anna Fritz Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★ Grüne Mamba
- with
KP
| 14m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 7 |
★★ Indian Summer
- with
KP
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
★★ Herbst in Kentucky
- with
KP
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7+ ~7 |
★★ Scheltopusik
- with
KP
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Loreleyblock | ||||||
| 6+ ~6+ |
Wasserpistole und Taschenlampe
- with
Daniel
| 10m | Don't Bother | |||
| Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Bärental Bärentalwächter | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Langer Weg
- with
Raimund
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Still amazing. However, next time I will probably climb it the original way, traversing in from around the corner. The start is so awfully chossy.
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| Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Neue Heimat | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Frankenplaisir
- with
Raimund
| 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
★ Kaum Zeit zum Fürchten
- with
Raimund
| 9m, 6 | Average | |||
| 8- |
★★ Neue Heimat
- with
Raimund
| 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
| Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Burglesau Burglesauer Wand und Vortürme Fellhorn | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Südriss
- with
Merlin
| 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
|
Original variant with hard traverse to the left in the upper part. #jahreserste2024
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| Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Aufseßtal Südwand | ||||||
| 4+ |
★ Westriss
- with
Merlin
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Alpenvereinsquergang
- with
Merlin
| 40m | ||||
|
I climbed the original line ("Alter Weg Variante in the old guide books") from right to left. The tension traverse into the alcove with the book was difficult to do without aid, I traversed a bit further and downclimbed the overhang. Book was soaked, unfortunately. Traverses further left into "Südwestkante".
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| Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Kleiner Spitzenstein | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Blindschleiche
- with
Raimund
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Lochturm | ||||||
| 3 |
★ Linke Nordseite
- with
Raimund
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Kaminpfeiler
- with
mb
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
I don't think I've ever climbed this difficulty in an absolutely wet state. I cheated only very slightly by placing a towel in a hold and grabbing the hold through the towel to increase the friction a bit because it was so slimy from wet chalk that it was impossible to hold on to.
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| 6- |
★★ Annelore
- with
mb
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 5+ |
★ Boulderwandl
- with
mb
| 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Rote Wand | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Górecki
- with
KP
| 28m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| 7- |
★ FBB-Querung
- with
KP
| 40m | ★ Good | |||
|
Seemingly endless traverse from right to left. Slipped out of a dripping wet pocket on my first attempt in the middle, in the only steep section, so I returned to the ledge to do that section again.
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| Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Spies Hohe Reute | ||||||
| 4+ |
★★ Willi Kapp Gedenkweg
- with
Harald
| 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Always enjoyable. I've probably never done this in temperatures above 5 degrees. :-D
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| 5+ |
★ Südwand
- with
Harald
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
| 5- |
★ Gartenzwerg
- with
Harald
| 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 6 |
★ Heuberger Gedenkweg
- with
Harald
| 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| Wed 10th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Schauertaler Turm | ||||||
| 4 |
★ Obere Südwand
- with
Bovist
| 17m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Toni Rockstroh Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★★ Alter Weg
- with
Harald
| 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sun 17th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Muggendorf Obere Muggendorfer Wände | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Übergangsbewegung
- with
Markus Benning
| 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Norisbabawand | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Variante von der KEK-Verschneidung zum Norisbaba-Direkteinstieg
- with
Harald
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
A long traverse that is listed in a "best of free climbing" list in Boulder magazine from the early 80s. Indeed a good line and a delightful adventure. Rock quality is mediocre in places and the options for natural protection are limited, though.
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| 6+ |
★★★ Sarg
- with
Harald
| 39m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
One half of the overhanging crack dihedral towards the top was completely soaked, so I had to climb it differently than usual, adding to the thrill.
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| Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ 1000-Pfund-Weg
- with
Harald
| 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Late afternoon headlamp ascent.
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| Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Schwalbenstein | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Westwand
- with
Harald
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
| 7 |
★ Frankenschotter
- with
Alex
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 8th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Holzgauer Wand Left | ||||||
| 6- |
★★ Ostriss
- with
Christoph Straubmeier
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The desperately needed #warmup (it had around -5 degrees). Luckily the hands aren't needed much for the top section. :-D
|
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| Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
| 5- |
★★ Immos delight
- with
KP
| 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 1st Nov 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Left | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Noch hält's
- with
Alex
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Veilbronn Totensteinwände | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Hohe Liebe
- with
Christoph Straubmeier
| 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Typical Totenstein(wände) #warmup that gets you pumped already. The start was moist, which also didn't help.
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| Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Calvi | ||||||
| La bibli | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ Shooting de beauf
- with
Ellen
| 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Once again for good measure.
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| Wed 27th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | ||||||
| 7- |
★ Schmittchen Schleicher
- with
KP
| 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Going directly to the last bolt is quite awesome, but requires a lot more balls than going left to the prominent knob, but the detour feels like off route due to the "coffee" route to the left which was added much later. :-/
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| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Streitberger Schild | ||||||
| 6- |
★ Alte Talseite
- with
Ellen, David X
| 27m | ★ Good | |||
|
#lastrouteoftheday in the evening sun. Felt easy today, despite the soapy holds.
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| Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Schauertaler Turm | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Nordwand
- with
Ellen, David X
| 33m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Revisited this one after years. I had completely forgotten how varied this route was, brilliant. Dihedral, slab, athletic overhang, crack, it's all there.
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| Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Matterhornwand | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Bayreuther Weg
- with
mantra
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Sonntagsspaziergang
- with
Harald
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Hand jams, hand jams, hand jams. The middle section (before the jams) was trickier than I remembered it! #lastrouteoftheday
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| Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Erinnerungswand | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★★ Stefan Böhm Gedenkweg
- with
Ellen
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Climbed the original finish this time, via the obvious double crack. Take a few cams. There are rotten old slings and a carabiner at the top (around a tree), I wouldn't trust them, so either leave a piece of rope or abseil down.
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| Sat 26th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Püttlacher Wand | ||||||
| 8- |
★★ Abseitsfalle
- with
Ellen
| 23m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Third time's the charm? Still great.
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| Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Pottensteiner Wand | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★ Zweite Wahl
- with
Andreas
| 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
#warmup, started via Zeitreise. The Grünbauer part felt easier than the last few times, probably because it wasn't freezing cold.
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| Tue 15th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Sittenbachtal Grauer Fels | ||||||
| 8 8- |
★ Hersbrucker Weg
- with
Merlin
| 27m | ★ Good | |||
|
Quite hard for the grade, or maybe it's just the humidity. Tough sequence after the second bolt, left out the third. From there it's easier, but the rock is (still, I must say, the lower part wasn't exactly bulletproof) brittle and some care is necessary. From the big ledge, there are some good pockets, but I almost got desperate towards the end. Apparently the upper part is 7-; I somehow doubt it, but maybe I didn't get it right.
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| Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Rosthakenweg
- with
Matthias Felix
| 30m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Neuer Gemsenweg
- with
Ellen
| 19m | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Dooser Wand | ||||||
| 8+ |
★★★ Das Letzte Hemd
- with
Ellen
| 36m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Finally sent this king line. My last attempt earlier this year really paid off, even though I remembered the beta only schematically. This was also the first time I tried the direct start via "Taschenspieler", which adds around 8 to 10 meters of technical wall climbing. The conditions were also perfect, so the middle section felt pretty safe (also, there's an old peg that I hadn't seen before which helps a bit). Brilliant slab dance to the crux as always. Shook out shortly, then started into the bouldery passage. The hold for my left hand felt somehow wrong, but I knew I wouldn't get the chance to readjust, so I just put my right foot up high onto the important foothold I remembered, and pressed up into the undercling. After this I felt quite fresh, so I knew I could make it if I kept my shit together, which I apparently did. The finish felt secure and calm, I wasn't even too pumped when I reached the anchor.
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| 6- |
★★ Westkante - Rechter Ausstieg
- with
Ellen
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Zehnerstein | ||||||
| 8- |
★★★ Affenschaukel
- with
Bovist
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Climbed the route along a line more true to the original given in old guidebooks by traversing left in the steepest part of "Seifertriss". Climbed freely, the traverse leads slightly upwards instead of down, so the rope runs smoothly if you leave out the first bolt after reaching the crack of Affenschaukel. Funnily enough, this variant felt almost better than what is most climbed nowadays because it leaves out the steep, greasy boulder and replaces it with sustained, overhanging pocket climbing in the traverse.
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| Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Veilbronn Leo Maduschka Gedenkwand | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ Nürnberger Kamin
- with
Harald
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Veilbronn Totensteinwände | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Hohe Liebe
- with
Hartmut
| 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Felt incredibly hard today in these humid conditions.
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| Fri 26th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Wachbergfelsen | ||||||
| 7+ |
★ Fuchurs Flug
- with
Harald
| 17m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
|
Another #repeat of this psychological test piece. The crux in the beginning felt pretty rough once again, as did the finish, but I still had a good deal of margin.
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| Thu 4th May 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Turm | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Nordostkamin
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
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↑↓
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| Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Engelhardsberg Quackenschloss | ||||||
| 3 |
★ R1
- with
Harald
| 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
|
Soloed out because the approach is strewn with freshly chopped trees and branches.
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| Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Schneeberg | ||||||
| Drei Brüder Mittlerer Bruder | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Piazriss
- with
Bovist
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
#repeat Sensible jams up to the crux. Climbed everything but the crux in crack technique. Maybe full-on crack next time instead of laybacking the crux? ;-)
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| Fri 21st Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Bärenschluchtwände Bärenschluchtwände | ||||||
| 8- |
★★ Göttner Gedenkweg original
- with
David X
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Traverses to the right after the crux. Felt a tad easier than the direct variant indeed. Great route.
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| Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Turm | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Nordostkamin
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Left | ||||||
| 6 |
★ W-E-H
- with
Melanie
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
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#repeat to retrieve the gear from "Via Donatella" after the rain.
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| Wed 15th Feb 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Streitberger Schild | ||||||
| 7+ |
★★ Günther Kolb Gedenkweg
- with
Bovist
| 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
"Quick" dip during lunch break. Not claiming an onsight because I knew most of the route, of course. Although some parts always feel new, and tough each and every time, even the crux of "Südwestkante" which I last did only three months past (I guess it's the intimidating slab clip standing on slanted footholds with only a shallow mono pocket for the left hand). The only "new" part for me was the traverse after the roof (the latter worked out nicely today). I first climbed up the crack to get a long sling into the bolt, then tried to traverse slightly too high. Had to backtrack, climb down a bit and traverse directly above the lip. Great slab moves there!
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| Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Schwalbenstein | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Westwand
- with
Harald
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 20th Jan 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Zaunsbachtal Hutzelturm | ||||||
| 6 |
★ Talweg
- with
Harald
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
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Looked dry from below, but there was snow in the most important hold after the Bühler bolt, which made it quite difficult. Also almost fell into the chimney at the end.
 #jahreserste2023
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| Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Veilbronn Edelweißblock | ||||||
| 5+ |
★ Nordwand
- with
Raimund
| 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
|
Completely wet except for the first two meters, but the jams are good enough.
 #jahreserste2023
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| Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Veilbronn Adlersteiner Nadel | ||||||
| 3 |
★ Alter Weg
- with
Raimund
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Walberla Rodenstein | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Kroderplatte
- with
David X
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
#lastrouteoftheday Great finish with a beautiful sunset. Actually #jahreserste2023 since I was the first on the summit, but let a group of ladies write their entry first. ;-)
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| Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
| 6 |
★ R9a
- with
Raimund
| 30m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
|
Would have climbed "Bruder Jakob", but that was full of snow due to the many ledges, so this one had to serve as a #warmup. Quite tough to get to the first bolt in these conditions, from then on it was nice and warm, but difficult with wet shoes.
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| Sun 4th Dec 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Zehnerstein | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★★ Seifertriss
- with
Markus Benning
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sat 12th Nov 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Weiße Wand | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Direkter Vajoletweg
- with
KP
| 30m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 12th Nov 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Sachsenturm | ||||||
| 8 |
★ Jungwirth Gedenkweg
- with
KP
| 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
|
Didn't feel much easier than last time, but I had more juice left. Definitely somewhere in the 8th grade UIAA. The traverse past the third bolt is tough, especially because there are barely any footholds for the left foot once you've managed to stand up into the dihedral. The middle part is brilliant jug hauling along big razor flakes, which fortunately are still quite solid. Something that is not true for the start (sandy as hell) and for some holds in the upper traverse. The jug that you pull on once you've made your way out of the roof (sharp left!) doesn't make a good impression. Good rest before the final few meters, but those alone could already be harder than 7+, I guess.
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| Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Kleiner Bär
- with
Bovist
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Tue 1st Nov 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Dachlwand | ||||||
| 3+ |
★ Oberer Dachweg
- with
Daniel
| 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Freundschaftsturm | ||||||
| 7- |
★★ Reifeprüfung
- with
Markus Benning
| 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Didn't remember the beta at the overhang at first. Also a brilliant route. #repeat
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| Fri 28th Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Steinfelder Wand | ||||||
| 6+ |
★ Goldener Mittelweg
- with
Luiz Felipe Ribas
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 28th Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Freundschaftsweg
- with
Luiz Felipe Ribas
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Gelber Turm | ||||||
| 6+ |
★★ Direkte Talseite
- with
KP
| 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
#repeat, including the pitch starting from one storey lower. Climbed that one with backpack, so it felt super hard.
|
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| Wed 12th Oct 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Left | ||||||
| 6- |
★ Derham is derham
- with
KP
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| 7 |
★★★ Devil's Crack
- with
Matzka
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Felt really relaxed in it today.
#repeat #lastrouteoftheday
|
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| Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Nago | ||||||
| Belvedere Sector B | ||||||
| 6b |
Via Del Biscotto
- with
Bovist
| 24m | ★ Good | |||
|
Just tried this because I failed here years ago, and now I know why. The route in itself is beautiful, but even for 6b, it's terribly hard. The crux section, quite high up, is a tough, almost bouldery wall climbing problem which also relies a bit on friction -- on totally greased up holds. Luckily, the sun was already setting and I got through the lower part without sweating a lot, so I could quickly breeze through that part. Didn't lose my cool when I suddenly stood there in the slab, not having anything sensible to hold on to, either, so I could ignore the urge to clip the bolt in front of my eyes and instead climb on for another two moves to the safety of a jug. Hard!
|
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| Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Almoser Wand | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ ASC Weg
- with
Torsten
| 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 2nd Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Schauertaler Turm | ||||||
| 7- |
★ Toni Kurz Gedenkweg, rechter Ausstieg
- with
Jenni
| 35m | ★ Good | |||
|
Can't call this an onsight since I knew most of the route. Also, it's quite hard to find the place where you go to the right. I probably missed the point and traversed in from a bit higher up. I think I like the left-hand variant better, since you don't have to crawl up the chossy ledge. Both variants are impressive routes, though. I still think the crux is at the third bolt.
|
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| Fri 2nd Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Streitberger Schild | ||||||
| 7 |
★★★ Südwestkante
- with
Jenni
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Marvellous. I had already forgotten how tricky the two crux sections were, so almost an onsight. The original start is great, solid rock from start to finish.
|
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| Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Sachsenmühle Sachsenturm | ||||||
| 5+ |
Talkamin
- with
Revo
| 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Teufelsriss
- with
KP
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Climbed the route as originally intended to the summit (via the big north face ledge and the old north face route as second pitch). 30 meters of brilliant climbing.
|
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| Fri 5th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Geheimbund | ||||||
| 8+ |
★★ Balkanplatte
- with
mb
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
|
Didn‘t spot a hold above the second bolt quick enough. Lowered immediately and tried again. Short boulder over the bulge, then easier slab.
|
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| Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Holzgauer Wand Left | ||||||
| 8+ |
★★ Ostwand
- with
Ellen
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Quite a hard boulder up to the second bolt (used to be easier, a hold supposedly broke). You can probably clip the first one, but falling into it would be a bit nasty, so it's best to pre-clip the second. Beautiful wall climbing on small pockets from the second bolt up to the overhang, then it suddenly gets really strenuous again. Quite a few tricky moves in the end, I was lucky that my final crossover move ended up in a monstrous jug, otherwise I would have dropped off just below the anchor. (Flashed the upper part, had to do the boulder at the bottom two or three times.)
|
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| Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Riesturm | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Südwand
| 15m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
↓
|
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| 4 |
★ Südwand (rechter Ausstieg)
| 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
A little easier than the left variant, which is slightly steeper, but more beautiful.
|
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