Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun 26th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Schmidbergwand | ||||||
| 3 |
★ Westkante
- with
Raimund
| 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 20th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Castellwand | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Hirschbachverschneidung
- with
Kathi
| 17m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 8th May 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Affensteine Brosinnadel - Drillinge Wilder Kopf | ||||||
| VIIIa |
★★ Strubichkante
- with
David X
| 40m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Wed 8th May 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Affensteine Brosinnadel - Drillinge Rokokoturm | ||||||
| V |
★★★ Südweg
- with
David X
| 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 4th May 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | ||||||
| 5- |
★ Nordverschneidung
- with
thedark
| 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
| 5+ |
Kleiner Kamin
- with
thedark
| 10m | ||||
| Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Teufelskrallenturm | ||||||
| 2 |
Bergseite
- with
Raimund
| 5m | ||||
| Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Weidener Wand | ||||||
| 6+ |
★ Patzer
- with
Raimund
| 14m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Gebiet der Steine Quirl Quirlwächter | ||||||
| IV |
Alter Weg
- with
Bovist
| 6m | ||||
| Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Gebiet der Steine Quirl Dreikanter | ||||||
| IV |
★ Alter Weg
- with
Bovist
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Affensteine Lorenzwände - Lehne Affenwand | ||||||
| IV |
★ !Westkante
- with
Bovist
| 15m | ||||
| Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Affensteine Dom Zerborstener Stein | ||||||
| IV ~IV |
Alter Weg
- with
Bovist
| 50m | ||||
| Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Affensteine Dom Gespaltener Kopf | ||||||
| VIIa |
★ Südostkante
- with
Bovist
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Affensteine Dom 2.Zerborstener Turm | ||||||
| III |
Pfeilerweg
- with
Bovist
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Affensteine Dom Zerborstene Nadel | ||||||
| VI |
Westkante
- with
Bovist
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Affensteine Dom 1.Zerborstener Turm | ||||||
| III |
★★★ Westgrat
- with
Bovist
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Heidebrüderturm | ||||||
| IV |
★ !Alter Weg
- with
Bovist
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Waltersdorfer Horn | ||||||
| IV |
★ Südkante
- with
Bovist
| 35m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Gamrigscheibe | ||||||
| VIIc |
★ Weg am Rande
- with
Bovist
| 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Gamrigkegel | ||||||
| V |
★★ Südweg
- with
Bovist
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Heidestein | ||||||
| VIIa |
★★ Abendreibung
- with
Bovist
| 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| III |
★★ Südwestrippe
- with
Bovist
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Gamrig - Ziegenrücken Gamrigwächter | ||||||
| VI |
★ Talriss
- with
Bovist
| 30m | ★ Good | |||
| VIIa |
Alter Weg Berglervariante
- with
Bovist
| 5m | ||||
| Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Preßknockwände | ||||||
| 5 |
R16
- with
KP
| 15m, 3 | ||||
| 4+ |
★ R17
- with
monolith
| 22m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| Mon 1st Apr 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Wehlen Buschholzturm | ||||||
| VI |
Alter Weg Talzustieg
- with
Raimund
| 16m, 1 | ||||
| VI |
★ Alter Weg
- with
Raimund, Bovist
| 8m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Hirschgrund Wartturm | ||||||
| V |
★★ Alter Weg
- with
Bovist
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Bastei Bergpirat | ||||||
| V |
Alter Weg
- with
Bovist
| 12m | ||||
| Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Bastei Musketier | ||||||
| II |
Alter Weg
- with
Bovist
| 12m | ||||
| Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Bastei Margaretenspitze | ||||||
| 2 |
★★ Sprung
| 2m | ||||
| III |
★ Alter Weg
- with
Bovist
| 18m | ||||
| Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Bastei Torsteiner Turm | ||||||
| IV |
★ Südostverschneidung
- with
Bovist
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Großer Zschand Thorwalder Wände Kleiner Edelweißturm | ||||||
| III |
★ Alter Weg
| 23m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Großer Zschand Thorwalder Wände Großer Edelweißturm | ||||||
| VIIb ~VIIc |
Südwand
- with
Raimund
| 25m, 2 | ||||
| III |
★ Südrippe
- with
Bovist
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Großer Zschand Thorwalder Wände Dreiblockstein | ||||||
| IV |
★ Südkante
- with
Bovist
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Großer Zschand Thorwalder Wände Hickelkopf | ||||||
| V |
★★ Alter Weg
- with
Bovist, Raimund, Conny
| 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Bielatal Grenztürme Kleiner Grenzturm | ||||||
| II |
★ Alter Weg
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Bielatal Grenztürme Grenzkegel | ||||||
| VI |
★ Südwestriss
- with
Raimund, Bovist
| 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
| Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Bielatal Grenztürme Großer Grenzturm | ||||||
| II |
★★ Alter Weg
- with
Conny
| 40m | ||||
| Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Bielatal Grenztürme Grenznadel | ||||||
| IV |
★ Alter Weg
- with
Conny
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Spitzenstein | ||||||
| 2 |
Normalweg
| 8m | ||||
| Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Altbabawand | ||||||
| 3 |
★ Rampenweg
- with
Merlin, Bovist
| 25m, 2 | ||||
| Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Roter Mönch | ||||||
| 6+ |
Adlersteig, Einstiegsvariante
- with
Harald
| 17m, 5 | ||||
|
Nice starting variant along the obvious crack, nuts are a must.
|
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| 6+ |
Karl Hetz Gedenkweg
- with
Harald
| 30m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Originally climbed with only one bolt in the first pitch, which is astonishing. The second pitch is only recommended for enthusiasts; the ringed bolt directly after the belay is followed up with only three pitons and a good tree. Powerful over the bulge, then grassy to the headwall, which is actually quite nice and not too intimidating despite the old pegs.
|
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| 3 |
★ Bergseite
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
The south-west chimney isn't entirely trivial. From the plateau it's enjoyable wall climbing along the easiest line.
|
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| Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Student | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Westwand
- with
Daniel
| 35m | ★ Good | |||
|
A bit easier than the zealously overbolted "Alte Talwand", but, I must admit, not as good. Draws to the left, almost to the arête, after the second ledge (look for the bolt). From there, straight up over blocky ledges to the top.
|
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| Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Weißer Grat | ||||||
| 5+ |
★★ Weißer Kamm
- with
Daniel
| 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Pretty good for something that isn't on anybody's radar. Nice crack and dihedral climbing up to the middle, then cool traverse to the right, and an airy finishing dance on the arête, then either get to the easy terrain on the right or (bolder) climb directly up the arête.
|
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| Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Bärental Bärentalwächter | ||||||
| 5+ |
Ostriss
- with
Raimund
| 25m, 3 | ||||
|
Forgotten route, probably hasn't been done in ages. The vegetation is thick. It's a shame, because the climbing isn't that bad.
|
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| Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Münchser Wand | ||||||
| 6- |
★ Nordwestverschneidung
- with
Viola
| 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
Blocky dihedral that climbs quite nicely. For some people, the start might be the crux. No anchor, but you can climb up to the anchor of the route on the right (nuts necessary).
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| Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Ailsbachtaler Turm | ||||||
| 3 |
Südwestkante
- with
Revo
| 8m | ||||
| Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Haunritz Alter Fritz | ||||||
| 4+ |
★ Alter Weg
- with
Raimund, KP
| 18m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
Not as vegetated as I had feared it to be. After the chimney, just keep a bit left and climb onto the big blocks. From there it's pretty difficult to get onto the next ledge, hats off to the first ascnetionists. An airy step to the right and up on jugs past a tree to the summit.
|
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| 5 |
★★★ Talweg
- with
Raimund, KP
| 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Brilliant, airy classic. The section where it leaves "Bayerlandverschneidung" to the right felt hard for the grade. From the next ledge, it's also a bit bold because there aren't too many good options for additional protection. The traverse back to the left of "Bayerlandverschneidung" is stunning. Exposed and very worthwhile. #jahreserste2024
|
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| Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Alpenvereinswand | ||||||
| 5- |
★★ Alter Weg
- with
Merlin
| 40m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The original line starts in the middle of the face in easy but grassy rock, then goes to the crack on the right. From the last ledge, it traverses left into the vague dihedral, then further diagonally up to the left. The dihedral is certainly the hardest part, but I don't think it's 6- as it's given in most guidebooks.
|
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| Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Into the Wild | ||||||
| 3+ |
Südrippe
- with
Merlin, Bovist
| 10m, 1 | ||||
| Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Steinerne Stadt Krötenland & Zinkenstein | ||||||
| 3+ |
★ Linker Ostkamin
- with
Bovist
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
|
Not too easy. The start is the crux, somehow getting your body into the chimney. Quite green.
 #jahreserste2024
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| Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Aufseßtal Purzelstein | ||||||
| 4+ |
Bergseite
- with
Harald
| 8m, 1 | ||||
|
Exposed around the corner, then left into the south face and up the easy wall.
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| Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Spies Hohe Reute | ||||||
| 5 |
★ Kraftriss
- with
Harald
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
|
Awesome shoulder crack with an easy chimney on top that looks intimidating from the ground. The shoulder crack can of course be climbed frontally without any crack skills, but you shouldn't! Good but tricky nut placement after a few meters, a good sling shortly after.
|
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| 5+ |
★★ R.R.-Riß
- with
Harald
| 14m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
Fun crack line with a lot of full-body action. The top section isn't easy, but the low temperatures probably didn't help.
|
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| 4 |
★ Hüttenriss
- with
Harald
| 16m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
Good easy line, slings and nuts are helpful.
|
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| Fri 12th Jan 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Weißmain-Alb Wattendorf Katzenbuckel Katzenbuckel Turm | ||||||
| 3+ |
Ostwand
- with
Harald
| 8m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
Easier than it looks from afar.
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| Fri 29th Dec 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
| 5+ |
★ Mittelweg
- with
Alex
| 30m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
One of only two (mostly) dry routes at the crag today. Classic traverse through the wall, enjoyable dolomite stroll. Crux are the final few meters to the belay. Second pitch is easier but grassy and a little chossy up to the point where you merge into "Langer Riss".
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| Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Egloffsteiner Gemsenwand | ||||||
| 6- |
★★★ Alter Gemsenweg
- with
KP
| 40m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Alpine adventure, rope management is key, but also not ripping off holds in the brittle but beautiful middle section.
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| Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Wolkensteiner Wand | ||||||
| 5+ |
★ Rechter Weg
- with
Melanie Straubmeier
| 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Good route that avoids the hard sections. Unfortunately, I didn't take yet another look into the old guidebook, so shortly before the finish I didn't notice I had to do another traverse to the left in easy terrain. Instead, I climbed upwards, following obviously polished holds, but it turned out to be a red herring and the polish seems to come from top roping that section, because on lead, it's a 5 m runout at least to easier ground, then yet another 3 meters to the anchor.
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| Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Würgau Frankenwand | ||||||
| 3 4 |
★ Frankenkamin
- with
Merlin
| 15m | ||||
|
Nice little chimney, but too short. And it's certainly not 4 UIAA, rather 3 or even easier.
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| Thu 12th Oct 2023 - Porto area | ||||||
| Capu A Scalella | ||||||
| 6a |
★ Saltu in bocca
- with
Ellen
| 230m | ★ Good | |||
|
A two star adventure all in all, so the rating is just for the climbing and the route itself, not considering the approach and descent, which can by themselves become epics, and almost did for us. Lost the cairns on the approach at some point in a thick brush, didn't want to waste any more time continuing the search and had to whack our way through, partly crawling along tunnels made by (probably) pigs. The climb itself went pretty well, the massive tafoni cave is the distinguishing feature of course. The line is not always 100% clear and there's lichen and a thin layer of moss in many places, but it's manageable. The crux pitches are a steeper tafoni section after the cave and a traverse, both of which have enough bolts. The pitch to the summit is an easy slab stroll, so we soloed it. After abseiling from that last pitch, don't miss the slit opening behind the huge boulder, you really need to crawl through it! There are a few cairns marking the first part of the descent from there, always traversing out a little, then finally through a narrow section onto the slab. From there, it's an easy, but exposed scramble down the slab, you have to trust your guts to find the easiest way. On our way down, we luckily found the cairn path and also realized where we lost it, so we marked that passage as good as we could (it's also not entirely obvious because you need to go down towards a deep ravine, then turn sharp right after a few meters).
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| Fri 6th Oct 2023 - La Restonica | ||||||
| Punta Spenicazzia | ||||||
| 5+ 5c |
★★★ Candella di l'oro
- with
Ellen, Bovist
| 200m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Seemingly gets a lot of traffic. We were at the start before 10 and there was already a (slightly slow) group in front of us. Before we started, the next group already showed up, so we were wedged in a bit. I took my time and enjoyed each pitch, but the French guys behind us seemed to be in a hurry. The first pitch is probably the hardest and the one where I needed the most additional protection. Pitch 2 is an easy stroll over the ridge, but very enjoyable. I just put slings on each intermediate jag, almost no rope drag this way (make sure to avoid clipping the stuck cam ;-)). Pitch 3 is in great position slightly to the right of the dull arête. Of course, pitch 4 is the money pitch, leading through a labyrinth of massive tafoni. Protection is a non-issue, just avoid rope drag. The last few meters of the pitch aren't obvious, look out for a bolt on the right that leads into a short chimney section. Going around left is also possible, probably even easier, but not as exposed. The final pitch is easier and not too interesting. Communication from the top is difficult. Great view from the top, a nice place to rest.
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| Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Oberes Pegnitz- und Flembachtal Weidlwanger Wand | ||||||
| 7 |
★ Tears for Fears
- with
KP
| 13m | ★ Good | |||
|
The easiest route here, but probably not a good #warmup for most people. Decided to do just that, anyway. Chossy start. I climbed in slightly from the left. Just below the crack, there's a decent placement for a #1. Great rock quality as soon as you're in the crack. Eats protection like mad, too, so you can fully concentrate on the awkward moves. Bomber jams, but far in the back of the crack, so your movement is limited quite a bit. There's an anchor below the vegetation.
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| Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Kühlochfels Amberger Turm & Wand | ||||||
| 6- 6+ |
★ Uhuriss
- with
thedark
| 14m | ★ Good | |||
|
Full-on chimney action in between a myriad of wall climbing classics. Me likey. Two cruxes: the start (getting into the slit) and the narrow part in the middle (rusty peg). You're always in with your left shoulder and there's plenty of good spots to place protection in the back. Easy after the narrow part.
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| Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Weidener Wand | ||||||
| 5 |
Nordriss
- with
Ellen
| 12m, 2 | ||||
| Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Große Gans Vexierturm | ||||||
| VIIb |
★★ Amselseekante
- with
David X
| 65m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Perfect route to end the long weekend with, although I must admit the sand in the second pitch got me a little frightened. But let's start at the beginning. It seems many people start from the left instead of climbing the original hand crack, which is a shame. The crack is the obvious line and it's not hard. You can even protect it quite easily. The section from the first to the second ring is intimidating at first because you can't see the ring and it's overhanging, but the holds are good and you can climb in a controlled fashion. Almost didn't see the ring, had already placed a sling directly next to it. Good sling on a ledge after that, then up over an overhang ("Umgehungsstelle" of "Weinertwand") and via an exhilarating slab section to the third ring, where I set up belay. The second pitch starts off with what is maybe the most technical part of the climb. Didn't place anything up to the fourth ring, though, and just concentrated on the climb. After the ring, a little crack section provides some variation (and we even pocketed a sling that someone got stuck in a rock tunnel, kaching!) and before you know it, you're at the fifth ring. The guidebook said to go right here, "avoiding two chossy overhangs". Apparently, though, most people nowadays go left into the finish of "Weinertwand" instead, so the original finish is neglected and indeed the rock quality is questionable at best. I tried to avoid the "white stuff" as best as I could, found some mediocre rock tunnels and just climbed as carefully as possible to not break anything. It's not difficult climbing up there, fortunately. The feeling of success and relief was all the more present when I reached the summit. It's basically written everywhere but to be sure: the second abseil ring is on the opposite wall, just a few meters below the summit. Don't miss it!
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| Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Gebiet der Steine Zschirnsteine Wackelstein | ||||||
| IV |
★★ Westwand
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| III |
★★ Südkante
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Schrammsteine Zahnsgrund Hirschzahn | ||||||
| VIIa |
★ Alter Weg
- with
David X
| 10m | ★ Good | |||
|
Tough little bastard. Powerful to the first ledge, then sort of balancy up to a good sling, and another balance passage onto the last ledge. Didn't have a long sling any more so my protection there was sketchy. The rock quality is good, but somehow the surface of the holds still feels slippery and moist even when it's as dry as it is these days, which didn't help.
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| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Gebiet der Steine Zschirnsteine Kleingießhübler Turm | ||||||
| III |
★ Westkante
- with
David X
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
A series of high steps. :-D
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| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Gebiet der Steine Zschirnsteine Zschirnsteinwarte | ||||||
| VI |
★★ Westkante
- with
David X
| 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
Easy for Franconians. Overhanging jug haul with a ring. Nice, but unfortunately quite short. Great evening light, though.
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| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Gebiet der Steine Zschirnsteine Zschirnsteinwächter | ||||||
| VIIb |
★★ Talweg
- with
David X
2
V
20m
lead by
David X
| 50m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Gorgeous dihedral, slightly overhanging. Brilliant moves, especially the ones away from the ring. Good protection with solid sling placements and some rock tunnels. The second pitch is a little dirty and overgrown, unfortunately. You could in principle skip it and climb another route to the summit (the belay ledge is reachable from the plateau, or the other way round).
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| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Gebiet der Steine Zschirnsteine Wackelstein | ||||||
| I/1 |
★ Alter Weg
- with
David X
| 10m | ||||
|
The downclimb from the opposite wall is actually harder than the little jump and the climb to the summit afterwards. But this is a perfect way to get back down to the "Boofe" after climbing at the other summits in the area.
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| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Gebiet der Steine Zschirnsteine Winkelblock | ||||||
| I |
Alter Weg
| 8m | ||||
| IV |
Südvariante
| 8m | ||||
| III |
★ Südrippe
| 8m | ||||
| Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Schrammsteine Torsteine Tante | ||||||
| V |
★★★ Südostkante
- with
David X
| 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Another fantastic #lastrouteoftheday. Flowy, steep arête in great, black rock with easy to place protection (some rock tunnels and obvious knotted slings, one of which must be the best placement I've ever used in Saxony) to one of the most recognizable summits in the area.
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| Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Schrammsteine Nördlicher Schrammsteinkamm Onkel | ||||||
| V |
★★ Alter Weg Hesse-Variante
- with
David X
| 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
The long traverse at the beginning (when belaying in the wind gap) introduces quite the rope drag, maybe it's better to climb the start of "Westkante" instead. Interesting structures along the crack, everything looks suspiciously fragile, though. Had to set up belay at the ring due to aforementioned rope drag. Didn't realize we had to go left from there, so we accidentally climbed the variant.
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| Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Schrammsteine Torsteine Mittlerer Torstein | ||||||
| V |
Nischenrippe
- with
David X
| 18m | Average | |||
|
Looked easier and safer than it turned out to be. A little sandy/brittle at the beginning and also no protection. You're soloing up until you can slip into the chimney, then you can get a good sling onto the rib. Easy jug pulling from there, but you should carefully place protection if you can. The finish is dirty and a little overgrown, took me a good while to commit.
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| Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Schrammsteine Torsteine Hoher Torstein | ||||||
| VIIa |
★★ Nordostweg
- with
David X
| 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
We wanted to start right where we slept and this was the most intriguing line (at least to me) in the vicinity. I don't really know what I was thinking when I donned shorts the day before, but looking at the narrow chimney start, I already knew I was going to have a lot of fun. Tried tying my sweat towel to my left knee using tape and set off. About 1,5 meters up, it was gone already and my knee started to get numb. Luckily I didn't feel any pain because it was so exhausting at the same time. After 5 meters or so (which took me ages) you can finally put your right foot on a good chicken head on the outside, which also offers the first sling placement. But actually, the climbing eases off a lot there, it's pretty relaxing up to the belay in the alcove at around 30 meters. I didn't spot the little belay bolt, so I set up belay at the big rock tunnel (body belay to not weigh and damage it). Second pitch starts off with an awkward overhanging chimney that's hard to get into. First tried with my back on the wrong side and had to slide back down. After a few meters, you reach a little rock head (good sling) and the climb transitions into a crack dihedral. I placed some slings there, but none of them were 100%, I suppose. Around 2 meters above the last sling, the holds get thin and the dihedral flattens. I can hardly imagine how the first ascensionist must have felt soloing this section (well actually, I can a little because I didn't want to fall into my slings, too!) The pockets you gain just in time are probably often dirty because of all of the heather growing on the big ledge above, adding to the spice, so I took my time and brushed out the sand and dirt before carefully pulling on them to shift my ass over onto the slab on the right. Belay on a bunch of trees. The start of pitch three is brittle and sandy, but it gets better quickly. Below the final overhang, I chose to go right a bit and up directly, which is how I interpreted the route description (also, the groove on the left was blocked by a birch tree). Quite nice pitch this way and a belay ring on top. From here it's another 30 meter stroll (various options) to the summit. Quite the journey!
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| Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Honigstein - Talwächter - Feldsteine Talwächter | ||||||
| VI |
★★★ Ostkante
- with
David X
| 40m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Impressive climb. Interesting and rough start followed by a great dihedral. I climbed most of it as a shoulder crack, in hindsight there were many good footholds on the right side, but of course this wouldn't feel as safe. Fantastic jug haul in great position in the second pitch. A few sensible slings after the ring. Nice one to finish the first day.
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| Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Honigstein - Talwächter - Feldsteine Lamm | ||||||
| VIIb |
★ Direkte Südwestwand
- with
David X
| 10m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
Saxon sport climbing. You just need one quickdraw for this. Didn't really look out for sling placements below the ring but I can guess there isn't any (at least not a really good one). Tricky after the ring, staying close to the wall, some balance, and trusting your feet is the key. The rock was pretty hot, but surprisingly the friction wasn't bad. Eases off towards the summit, but you shouldn't fall on the last moves I guess. No summit book (apparently one of the few summits that are too easy to have one).
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| Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Honigstein - Talwächter - Feldsteine Lokomotive-Esse | ||||||
| V |
★★★ Überfall
- with
David X
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Full-on into the sandstone weekend! Famous "Überfall" after an airy ride on the ridge. Looks really far, best to not hesitate at all and just do it (practice on the ground if you're not used to it). I extended my leg (can't even remember which one) directly instead of just falling with my upper body, which seemed the best way. Worked out nicely. Actually, the hard part comes after pulling yourself to the wall using the massive jug. I fiddled around with slings a bit, but didn't find a good spot, really. The traverse can get to you, so stay calm. Once you've reached the crack, you're pretty safe.
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| Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
| Rathen Honigstein - Talwächter - Feldsteine Lokomotive-Dom | ||||||
| III |
★★ Alter Weg
- with
David X
| 22m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
|
Nice to get into sandstone again. Trivial start up the rib, then not so trivial up the crack to the ridge (but with safe jams) and a short easy wall to the summit.
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| Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Schneeberg | ||||||
| Rudolfstein-Gruppe Kreuzturm | ||||||
| 4+ |
★★ Nordwand
- with
Merlin
| 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
One of only two routes in the Bühler guidebook marked as "sehr lohnend". No objections. Spectacular journey for the grade. The first pitch is already quite interesting with a technical passages over the bulges. Fun traverse at the start of the second pitch (a bit strenuous, try to keep your body close to the wall), followed by a glorious, juggy vertical section to a little alcove and an exposed finish to the right of it.
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| Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Left | ||||||
| 6 |
★ R.P.-Riss
- with
Harald
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Overhanging offwidth crack, quite the original route. A shame that it's so short (not counting the easy approach to the crack). You have to overcome two bulges, feels intimidating and hard at first, but turns out to be what it says on the label. Plenty of good placements, wide crack skills are helpful.
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| Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Pottensteiner Wand | ||||||
| 7- |
★ Direkter Grünbauer Gedenkweg
- with
Andreas
| 35m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
|
Direct line from the starting dihedral of Grünbauer to the finishing crack after the original traverse, via a thin crack line. There's a Bühler bolt in the cave above the first bolt of Grünbauer, from there it's just rusty pitons. Unfortunately, the most important peg has been completely obliterated by rust, meaning that it's gone. Took me some 10 minutes to prepare a nest of gear in that place, which is super important but nontrivial to say the least. The next peg also doesn't look too good, which makes it all the more vital to place good gear. The ringed piton afterwards is a little better, and the terrain also eases off there a little. Good cam position (+ piton) in the slightly overhanging layback section, then easy via another piton to the top.
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| Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Erlanger Felsentor | ||||||
| 4+ |
★ Rechter Nordriss
| 25m | ★ Good | |||
|
The other obvious line in the north face. I was quite surprised to see tufaceous rock after a few meters. Passing behind the first chock is the obvious choice (there's an old peg below signalling the difficult passage). After a few meters of stimulating near-foothold-less chimney action, it gets easier, with good footholds and widening a bit. Careful towards the top, there are a few bigger rocks lying around precariously.
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| Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Ruchenköpfe | ||||||
| Südwand | ||||||
| 4+ |
★★ Dülferriss
- with
Bovist
| 100m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Started from the big ledge after abseiling. Obvious line and nice position. The crux passage through the polished chimney section might actually be 5-. The bolt sits in an awkward place there, I would have loved to put my back against that part of the wall. The second pitch is easier, but also quite nice, interesting finishing dihedral.
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| Tue 15th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Hersbrucker Schweiz Sittenbachtal Grauer Fels | ||||||
| 3- |
Ostverschneidung
- with
Merlin
| 8m | ||||
|
Easily protectable dihedral, but properly mossy.
|
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| 5 |
Nürnberger Weg
- with
Merlin
| 20m, 6 | ||||
|
Traverse around the whole rock from the south to the north via the west face. Just one little section of actual climbing which is a steep little boulder, the rest is relatively easy. The start is a little overgrown but it's not a problem.
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| Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Betzenstein-Stierberg-Leupoldstein Kleiner Wasserstein | ||||||
| 7- |
★ Genußregion Franken
- with
Bovist
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
| Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon | ||||||
| 4+ |
★ Untere Westwand
- with
Ellen, Daniel
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
|
An easy and enjoyable climb and an obvious line, but quite a few loose blocks in the beginning and also not so easy to protect without big cams. Used a few slings and smaller nuts.
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