Ascents in Dairy Farm by Hamish

Last route of the day. Tired but tried it anyway. Got the my moves but 2-hanged it

Trying this route after Kang shared the details. After the 6th bolt, the route is quite run-out, so it's not for the faint hearted. Wasn't able to solve the top section to the anchor.

Managed to get 1 climb in before the rain ended things. The climb looks wet, but the important crux holds stay dry. The advertised grade is probably a bit stiff for shorter climbers. It's much nicer now the foliage has been cleared. Also tightened the hanger on the second bolt with Dave 's adjustable spanner.

Fairly easy climbing, with an obvious crux which IMO makes the grade a whole number harder than listed

Many falls on the top crux

Was going to call this an Onsight, but at the crux I arguably traversed too far right onto the sinker hand jams, which are awesome and bomber, but likely considered off route (part of 'Zero Gulley'). Found a sequence for a direct finish, so I'll try that next time for propa R.P.🔴

Finally worked out beta for the top crux to the anchor! Sent it after working the moves a few times. Route has some really fun moves , but is let down by the seepage at the bottom.

Finally! Waiting out the rain paid off.

In between rain showers, had 2 TR burns on supercrack as it stayed dry. Home made crack gloves were pretty shitty, but not worse than my jamming skillz.

Fell off the marginal moves at the top again. It's nearly there ...

In my haste to put the rope up, slipped / was greased off and took a mini-fall.

Two goes working this stunning line. Still a bit lost on the very last moves

Last outing with Eoin before he heads back. Shame it tipped it down with rain before he could jump on the climb. Typical 😔

Returned early(ish) morning to retrieve our quickdraws. Can do all the moves, just need to link it up. There's no such thing as bad conditions, only weakness. Still the overbearing sun didn't help with the send. Will come back when the weather is overcast...

Rained off

Shame about the seepage.

Stoked!!!

Inspected the route on TR and pre-placed some of Al Bear's finest Black Diamond Z4 Size 0's to protect the top section. Took a whip and much to everyone else's surprise the size 0 cam held. I had full confidence after bounce testing it

For P1 we Climbed the flake, Stayed right and gained the slab from Nose Ramp. Interesting route variation to make it a tad easier than climbing the crack. Perhaps this is supposed to be 'First Blood original route' ???

Eoin seconded P2 in the dark , and then we rapped off.

Starting to make sense

Forgot my beta ! 😳

Top rope solo.

Took a fall on the last move

Sent it !!

Only in dairy farm can you green point a "trad climb". Still finally led it all just on gear. Spurred on by the new cams Sank a pretty full rack of protection from BD #3 down to the little tiny ones.

[Link up to Alarette]. Still used the bolts. Didn't lead it completely on gear.

[linked from P1 first blood] We did a headtorch dance, swapping them over as I set off, (worried that mine was going to die) but in the end it was probably unnecessary! Causing Al to belay me in the pitch dark. I had a bit of fun with the gear. first getting a BD microcam stuck then freed, and then I managed to get a Totem cam well and truly stuck, but not carrying a nut tool, it needed a rescue 🙈😅 (standard).

between rain showers...still damp and pretty slippery

With blowtorches

Really cool moves down low, into a crux which I couldn't solve. Jugged up to try the interesting but insecure moves higher up. The whole climb could use a good clean. Interested to come back for this.

Super short, not that fulfilling

Quick afternoon attack on Dairy Farm. Was informed by bystanders that "using the side wall is off-route for the 7a". Makes me think there should be 2 official variations for this route, since "not using the sidewall" strikes me as an "eliminate" style route, given it's an artificial restriction. I used the sidewall and will probably continue using the sidewall.

(19-Aug-2020: Created a new variation of this climb for using the sidewall)

This is a really nice route! Sick clipped the first bolt, cuz I value my ankles

Haha a funny variation

In the dark and slightly wet, it is harder

Will deffo be back for the lead tick. Nice route !

Night ascent. Planned to lead this all on trad gear, but in the dark everything is harder to see. Ended up placing cams of the perfect size lower down, with nothing for the traverse/finger crack. So sacked it and used the bolts. I did remember the crux sequence, which was a small condolence given my arsing about below

Still the best route in Diary Farm