Ascents as Red point or Ground up red point as trad by Hamish

Did the finish which is grade 21 in the book .

Fell on the first crux on the onsight attempt. Tye pointed out a big jug out left, which helped on the second try. Led both pitches together as a single

Amazing route(!)

[Link up to Alarette]. Still used the bolts. Didn't lead it completely on gear.

[linked from P1 first blood] We did a headtorch dance, swapping them over as I set off, (worried that mine was going to die) but in the end it was probably unnecessary! Causing Al to belay me in the pitch dark. I had a bit of fun with the gear. first getting a BD microcam stuck then freed, and then I managed to get a Totem cam well and truly stuck, but not carrying a nut tool, it needed a rescue 🙈😅 (standard).

Clean redpoint attempt, strictly using the crack. I am pretty shit at crack climbing but it feels tough for 5.8 or 5a. Especially the first move. Probably reckon it's more like 5.9. I think part of the reason I find it hard is because (for me) the crack is 'thin hands' size, which I am (apparently) really shit at.

I did sandbag myself by carrying an oversized rack, so ensured to place as much as possible on the way up. Once above the first crack and transitioning to the second, a BD 0.5 cam fits just nice off to the left extended with an alpine draw for rope run (placement is close to one of the bolt hangars).

Stuck ropes on rappel meant we had to climb twice

First lead of the day

Testing Cat A 's trad placement, on lead

2nd lead of the day

Climbed with double ropes to minimise exposure, which worked well. The crack starts small and gets bigger, meaning a range of cams is perfect. Lots of fun climbing the crack!