Showing all 42 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5.12a 5.12a/b | ★★ 不透水的屎 Waterproof to the shit - with lollypop | 22m, 10 | 两头洞 U Cave | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Aug 2019 | |||
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5.12a | ★★ 临时工 Temporary job | 20m, 7 | 昆明 Kunming | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st Jan 2020 | |||
看别人爬的不难,也试了一下。难度均匀,后半段难些,需要耐力,没有尖锐难点,耐力好的话不难。动作比较丰富
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5.12a | Gear on ★★ 别有洞天 | 15m, 11 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 11th Aug 2023 | |||
十分罕见的3D大仰角风格,必爬线路。全程大点,V2 - 好休息 - V3+ - 好休息 - V3+,挂顶最难, 可以有个左脚kneebar。可惜没带pad, knee不稳,要是挂顶不进,就掉了…
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5.12a | ★★ 单体的力量 The Power Of One (The Power Of One 单体的力量) | 25m, 9 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Feb 2021 | |||
仰角大点的线路,动作做到位并不累,适合用来练仰角动作。以阳朔标准来说是比较软的12a。 #2go 第一条带挂完成的12
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5.12a Hard | ★★ 磨溪村 Moxi Village — 2 attempts - with lollypop | 17m, 7 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | |||
冷门线路,不过依然有惊喜。下半段大点热身 休息。上半段是个V4, 仰角休息, 再来个V3。感觉比单体难。两个难点都比较tricky,对175身高臂展来说, 需要比较多技巧和准确的手脚点的选择,才能爬得比较省力。 #4go V4 是看了花花的技巧: crimp后挂左脚,左手反提, 左脚下高点, 右脚平衡起, 右手直接进洞里的一个好一些的点, 上左脚,上左手, 上右脚, 左脚上到crimp高点折膝出左手到大点。V3的一个右手交叉手,有效点是指洞冲里的,所以重心要出来反而稳定,左脚踩之前V4的左手点尖尖,上右脚才比较合适出左手。之后往左交叉手沿刃脊走简单,注意脚点选择。
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5.12a | ★★★ 蜻蜓 Dragonfly | 15m, 6 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | |||
休息够了,绑好胶布, #4go 难点仰角大发力/dyno ,点挺利的,建议缠点胶带保护一下手皮,避免老茧爆。大洞里可以挂右脚再出左手。
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5.12a | ★★★ 鸟洞 | 25m, 11 | 房山 Fangshan District | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th May 2021 | |||
比较均匀,风格多样。3个休息点(平台、第一个大洞,鸟窝后的大洞)分为4段,第三段最难,平衡风格,需要好脚法。 #2go
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5.12a | ★★★ 牛杂 | 14 | 清远英西 YingXi | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Jul 2020 | |||
动作丰富,难度均匀,穿插着小难点和休息点,大仰角和直壁大点,耐力好线。标准到偏难一点的12a。 #2go
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5.12a | ★★ 鲜衣怒马 - with Summer | 28m, 12 | 枣庄 Zao Zhuang | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Jul 2021 | |||
5.12a | ★★ PM 10 - with lollypop | 14m, 6 | 张家界槟榔谷 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 25th Jun 2020 | |||
5.12a | ★★ PM 10 Plus - with lollypop | 14m, 5 | 张家界槟榔谷 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Jun 2020 | |||
确实是plus,比右边那条难些。大仰角基本都可以侧身上,难点在出最后一个屋檐,从右边侧拉,上高脚。 #2go
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5.12a | ★★★ 鸡扒饭 / Chicken risotto (鸡扒饭 P1) | 22m, 10 | 马山 MaShan | ★★ Very Good | Fri 4th Jan 2019 | |||
#3go 中间单步难点, 上了钟乳石之后就是耐力。
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5.12a ~5.11d | ★★ 伶仃 Ling ding | 16m, 6 | 昆明 Kunming | ★ Good | Tue 21st Jan 2020 | |||
5.12a | ★★ 曲径通幽 - with lollypop | 16m, 7 | 白河 Baihe | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Sep 2020 | |||
两个难点:第一个身高够的人可以直接够到,不用脱右脚,会简单不少,虽然我还是脱脚过的;第二个屋檐横切考验脚法和手序。整体对脚法要求比较高 #2go
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5.12a 5.12a/b | ★★★ 风从裤裆过/The Wind Blows Through Your Crotch - with lollypop | 15m, 7 | 贵阳市 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 23rd Aug 2020 | |||
天花板经典线,kneebar,勾挂脚,夹坐钟乳。风大,恍惚间,会有种策马奔腾的感觉 必爬线路,会用脚的话不算难。 #2go
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5.12a | ★★ 卧虎藏龙 Hidden Dragon — 2 attempts - with lollypop | 15m, 8 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Sep 2023 | |||
大点天花板,勾挂脚可以歇力。干就完了,最难V3。#3go
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5.12a 5.12a/b | ★★ 猴子洞3右5 | 5 | 江油腰悬岩 | ★ Good | Tue 6th Oct 2020 | |||
动作还是漂亮而丰富的,考验脚法和技巧。起步难点可以用个kneebar简化。 #2go
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5.12a | Kneepad ★★ 左右逢源 - with lollypop | 12m, 5 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Aug 2023 | |||
#4go 基本是个V4抱石, 左边可以两个kneebar挂第二第三挂,这次没出意外,之后就简单。 右边也可以走,估计难度差不多。拆挂比红线还累……
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7a+ | ★★★ Wake & Bake (Wake and Bake) - with lollypop | 16m, 7 | Ton Sai | ★★★ Classic | Thu 13th Feb 2020 | |||
#4go
finally relaxed and paid more attention to left footwork.
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7a+ | ★★ Schwing dei Ding | 20m | Pha Tam Kam | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 4th Feb 2020 | |||
#2go
Classic crazy route! Most 3D route I ever climbed!
Beta spoil alert, don’t read this if you want to onsight. —————————— First crux at lower traverse, polished foot holes, unclip 4th draw, then lie down for no hand rest. Second crux across the roof and over, right hand out near the bolt, left hand into the hole on the roof, feet up and put your waist against the hanging flake, right hand to ledge, left hand across over, swing out. Then traverse above the bolt line to anchor. |
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5.11d ~5.11d | ★★ 渔舟唱晚 - with lollypop | 15m, 6 | 白河 Baihe | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Dragon Air P1 - with lollypop | 33m, 18 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★ Good | Sat 14th Oct 2023 | |||
帮人清顶,还是脚点没踩到… 拆挂比先锋还难,没法跳挂…不过最近状态回来点, 耐力和岩感比5月好多了
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5.12a | ★★★ Power Of 3, Face - with lollypop | 28m, 16 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Apr 2019 | |||
有两个小难点,主要是考验耐力和效率。
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5.12a | 指短情长 - with lollypop | 12m, 5 | 白河 Baihe | Don't Bother | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | |||
结束单步难点,没点,可能有个米粒大的扣扣,难道要dyno?
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5.11d | ★★ Jonny No Try - with lollypop | 7 | 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head | Sun 15th Oct 2023 | ||||
和两年前感觉不是同一条线,还是抠
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7a+ |
★★ Tongue Thaid (Tongue Thaid P1)
1
7a+
| 32m, 14 | Railay | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Dec 2019 | |||
不少指洞。take了两把,爬的有些紧,耐力还不够,动作需要优化。最后难点需要一个一指指洞过度一下,注意选择脚点。
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5.12a | ★★ 躲猫猫 The Artful Dodger - with lollypop | 17m, 7 | 阳朔 Yangshuo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | |||
有趣的冷门线路: 力量,指力平衡,仰角大点耐力。下半段难。风格这么多, 居然不热门。
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5.12a | ★★★ Attack of the Flying Squirrel | 石鼓 Shigu | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | ||||
后半段开始大仰角后累,虽然都是大点,肩背耐力不行
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5.12a | ★★★ 开心果 | 17m, 9 | 白岩下 Baiyanxia | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Aug 2021 | |||
#hard 分的比较艰难的12a,持续的对抗和平衡。
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5.12a | ★★★ 八年抗战 - with lollypop | 7 | 南宁 Nanning | ★ Good | Sat 7th Nov 2020 | |||
起步屋檐小难点,五进六是主要难点,需要连续两把大发力,还要准确性。难点掉落可能会撞到树枝。偏硬。
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5.12a | ★★ 穹顶之下 Under the Dome (Cave #9) | 25m, 7 | 石鼓 Shigu | ★ Good | Mon 7th Oct 2019 | |||
分步,不过累,挂左脚挂的抽筋
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5.12a | ★★ 狮子山 | 16m, 7 | 繁昌戴店 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Jul 2019 | |||
4进5是难点,还是掉了一把,裂缝的技巧还是不够。第3把应该能红了,可惜没时间了。
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5.12a | ★★ 请吃饭 - with 章鱼 | 27m, 12 | 大峪 Dayu | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Jun 2021 | |||
对我来说,反提向右和结束是难点
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5.12a | ★★★ 儿童节快乐P1 Happy Children's Day P1 - with lollypop | 30m, 13 | 白河 Baihe | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | |||
动作丰富的长线,2进3是难点
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7a+ | ★★ Reminiscence | 28m, 8 | Ton Sai | Fri 14th Feb 2020 | ||||
Upper crux is a puzzle to solve.
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7a+ | ★★ Totem | 28m, 11 | Ton Sai | ★ Good | Fri 21st Feb 2020 | |||
Feel weak and powerless. To clean draws
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5.12a 5.12a/b | ★★ ALPS | 20m, 8 | 两头洞 U Cave | Sun 17th Jun 2018 | ||||
Bolt near the crux seems to be in a bad position.
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7a+ | ★★ Riesenbaby | 10m, 4 | Ton Sai | Thu 19th Dec 2019 | ||||
5.12a | ★★ Star Tears 流星雨 | 10 | 昆明 Kunming | Sat 2nd May 2020 | ||||
第三挂片难点,需要左手指力,退
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5.12a | ★★ 买一送一 | 23m, 9 | 灵山 | Sun 25th Aug 2019 | ||||
三进四难点吃左手指力,中指旧伤, 退...
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5.12a | ★★★ 骑士的迷惑 Knights and Daze - with 五九不欢 | 15m, 10 | 两头洞 U Cave | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Aug 2020 | |||
onsight失败,第三挂片就走错方向了。。。
Bing on ★★★ 骑士的迷惑 Knights and Daze 5.12a - 钻洞 |
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5.12a Hard | Gear on Kneepad ★★★ 春秋战国 - with lollypop | 18m, 10 | 六盘水 Liupanshui | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Aug 2023 | |||
大点天花板,差一把挂到顶,耐力不够,天花板的心态还要练
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Showing all 42 ascents.
Pure chimney style climbing, following a beautiful pillar. Crux after the traverse. Trust your feet and back.