Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 26th May 2024 - Mount Iron | ||||||
The Next Best Thing | ||||||
12 | ★★ No More 'Brownes Cows' | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Setting up TR for 31 weeks pregnant partner.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Warm Leatharête | ||||||
27 | ★★ Sumo — 2 attempts | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Came very close to sending second go, but fell after the main crux. One hang. Would be keen to come back for it.
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Sat 25th May 2024 - Hospital Flat | ||||||
Hangover | ||||||
22 | ★★ Fur Breath | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pleasant, exposed, and somewhat pumpy.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Edition | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell off the start first go, lowered and went to the top. Chossy down low, but fun through the overhang.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Lakeside Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Carpe Diem - with Alexei Drummond | 11m, 3 | Average | |||
Pretty cruxy for a warm up.
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25 | ★ Dodor - with Alexei Drummond | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Took a few goes to make the feet work, but got there in the end. Actually rather fun in a manufactured rock kind of way.
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Wed 22nd May 2024 - Maungarei Springs | ||||||
Right Corner Wall | ||||||
25 | ★ Hrgngh Direct - with Alexei Drummond | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Very cryptic boulder problem that I came relatively close to solving, but alas, time was short. Reminiscent of Steaming Wally at Kangaroo Point, the other dingy urban quarry crag I’m familiar with.
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Waterfall Crag | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Risk vs Reward | ★ Good | ||||
V1 | End of the Rainbow | ★ Good | ||||
V1 | Unknown Warm-up 1 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V2 | ★ Unknown Warm-up 2 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V2 | ★ Unknown Warm-up 3 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V4 | ★★ Golden Tears | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V8 | ★★ Mr Miyagi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Possibly a touch easy with my beta, but it still took me 3 sessions so 🤷♂️. First go of the day, really fun moves.
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V6 | ★ Sloper Groper | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V7 | ★★ Short But Sweet | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V4 | ★ Arachnophobia | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★ Bolt Mode — 4 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One hang x3. Beta will be to avoid all rests and motor on through.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Fri 17th May 2024 - Waterfall Crag | ||||||
V1 | End of the Rainbow | ★ Good | ||||
V1 | Unknown Warm-up 1 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V2 | ★ Unknown Warm-up 2 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V2 | ★ Unknown Warm-up 3 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V4 | ★★ Golden Tears | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V8 | ★★ Mr Miyagi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very close to the send, but dabbed a foot on the cut loose move so can’t count it. Figured out some tricky beta that should help next session.
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V6 | ★ Sloper Groper | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V7 | ★★ Cramp | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First go today, felt easy.
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Mon 13th May 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★ Bolt Mode — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux feels different traversing in from Bolts. Was planning to get on Trog but it was wet and now I’m inclined to tick this one first.
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27 | ★★ Gorilla Grip | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First time repeating Gorilla in yonks. Such a fun route.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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27 | ★ He Devil — 3 attempts | 8 | ★ Good | |||
Quite a nice linkup actually, and harder than Gorilla alone given that it also passes the crux of Rubble. Possibly 28 but easier than She Devil in its current state, so who knows? Either way, good training for Trog!
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | ||||||
The Gully Arachnophobia Boulder | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Arachnophobia | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V2 | ★ Pumpkin Pie Hair-Cutted Freak | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | ||||||
The Forest Rusty Bucket Boulder | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Rusty Bucket | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt hard but maybe I just had bad beta.
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | ||||||
The Forest Strawberry Girl Boulder | ||||||
V3 | ★ Ooga Booga | ★ Good | ||||
V1 | ★ Strawberry Girl | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | ||||||
The Forest Flash Gordan Boulder | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Flash Gordan | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | ||||||
The Forest Warmup Boulder | ||||||
VB+ | ★ Warm up | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | ||||||
The Forest Shark Tooth Boulder | ||||||
V0 | ★ Shark tooth | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | ||||||
The Forest Forest Cliff | ||||||
V3 | ★ Dark Matter | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V0 | ★ Black Angus | ★ Good | ||||
V4 | ★★ High Heels | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slopier than expected.
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Wed 8th May 2024 - Wairere Boulders | ||||||
The Forest Butternut Squash Boulder | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Squash | ★★ Very Good | ||||
V1 | ★★★ Butternut | 2m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This rock is so cool and unique. I doubt you’ll find water worn basalt like this anywhere else, unless kauri also grow there.
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Sat 4th May 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First go of the day, just needed to remember the for sequence to get through the roof. Felt almost as hard as Bogus to me, although the style is quite different.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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27 | ★ He Devil — 2 attempts | 8 | ||||
Something fun to play on between projects and to re-learn the top of Gorilla in preparation for Trog.
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Bete Noire | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt hard in the sweaty conditions. But maybe I just suck at pockets.
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25 | ★★★ Ma Garta La Narta | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was a big nope for me in the sun today. Wow, I am weak on pockets.
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Little Spurt Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Swell | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt quite a bit easier than Bête Noir, but still quite good.
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24 | ★★ Spurt | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Love the committing throw to the lip, definitely a leap of faith for me!
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Tue 30th Apr 2024 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
How good is this route!
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20 | ★★★ Monsterpiece Theatre | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Slab to roof to steep headwall. What a banger!
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Spittle Hill Map 8 Opium and Ingenuity | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Eros | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice pocs.
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Spittle Hill Map 5 Philtrum and Episto | ||||||
V4 | ★★ 38 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat.
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V2 | ★★ Turn To Stone | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat.
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V1 | ★★ 31 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Repeat.
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V3 | ★ Don't Bring Me Down | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat.
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 2 Omertà & Remorse | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Remorse | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit dirty, but the moves are good fun.
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V6 | ★ Mad Dog | ★ Good | ||||
One of those problems that is hard for no real reason.
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin | ||||||
Quantum Field Map 5 Trinity Boulders | ||||||
V1 | ★★ 11 | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V0 | ★ 2 | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V2 | ★ 1 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nemesis status confirmed.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
High point, punted off just below the anchor. Frustrating, but I think I may have sorted better beta for the top. Becoming a bit of a nemesis!
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Mon 22nd Apr 2024 - Lyttelton Rock | ||||||
The Thunderdome | ||||||
26 | ★ Powerless Creatures | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat.
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26 | ★ The Power of Khan — 2 attempts | 6 | ★ Good | |||
Yes, it’s another silly link up, but what else am I going to do here?
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25 | ★★ Layer Cake | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up and warm down.
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25 | ★★ Layer Cake | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up and warm down.
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Sat 20th Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Punted above the last bolt FML! Completely changed the beta for the top but by the 3rd attempt I was already too gassed. Taking a lot longer than expected to get this one done.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Thu 18th Apr 2024 - Blowhard Bush | ||||||
Troglodyte Wall | ||||||
V0 | ★ Peanut Butter and Jelly Time | ★ Good | ||||
V2 | ★ Ridin' the Penis | ★ Good | ||||
V3 | ★★ Veefour | ★★ Very Good | ||||
What a lovely spot!
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V2 | ★ Incantation | ★ Good | ||||
V0 | The Nose | ★ Good | ||||
Campus ascent.
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V3 | ★★ Grumpy's Graunchy Straight Arm | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Once via campusing in approach shoes, then again heel hooking my way through in climbing shoes.
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Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 4 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Climbed through the crux twice only to punt off the top due to poor footwork. Trickier than expected to keep it together above the roof on red point. Still, very close!
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
1 hang x3, twice latched the crux slot but couldn’t quite hold it. Sorted out better foot beta to make the throw. Should have a good chance next session.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Wed 10th Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
29 | ★★ Attack Mode — 4 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
New project, first day on, already down to one hang! Won’t be a giveaway, but hopefully it’ll go down relatively quickly.
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up.
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Waterfall Crag | ||||||
V6 | ★ Pin Scars | ★ Good | ||||
Ming then high step.
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V6 | ★★ Such A Sandbag | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Killer rock over move, good fun.
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V1 | End of the Rainbow | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat.
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V1 | Unknown Warm-up 1 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V2 | ★ Unknown Warm-up 2 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V2 | ★ Unknown Warm-up 3 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
V8 | ★★ Mr Miyagi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got it all figured out minus one move, the high left heel. Will return in cooler conditions.
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V7 | ★★ Cramp | ★ Good | ||||
Had several goes and made all the moves, just too tired to link them.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Barnett Park | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
29 | ★★★ Bogus Machismo — 4 attempts | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A dream come true! Started the day with zero expectations after feeling a bit of elbow tendinitis flare up, almost didn’t have a final burn as I needed to rush home to the family, then all of a sudden I was clipping the chains! Shifting to the left knee bar at the second rest was a game changer as I could actually recover properly before the back to back cruxes at the end. Beyond stoked to have completed this milestone in my NZ climbing career!
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26 | ★ Grumble | 7 | ★ Good | |||
My new preferred warm up.
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Huntsbury Spur | ||||||
17 | ★★ Thermalling Hawks | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Finally went to check out the craglet up the hill from home. Didn’t expect much. Expectations were validated!
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15 | Bolt From The Blue | 3 | Average | |||
17 | ★★ Dry Bush Road | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Daycare date day, second trimester top rope session.
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12 | The Dominion Workers' Party | 12m, 5 | Average |