Ascensions alpine par Dean Potter †

Repeat and first one-day (23 hours) ascent of the mountain.

speed-solo in eight and a half hours

AAJ Article

Two hours before dawn I stood before the Supercanaleta (VI 5.10 WI4) and felt naked staring up at its 6,000-foot face. A wave of shivers rose up my body, and I subconsciously committed. Entranced by the fact that any mistake meant death, I sunk my ice tools so aggressively that I scarcely noticed blood soaking my mitts, leaving blotches on the ice. The sight drove me even deeper into a calm, decisive survival state, and I moved as if in a dream, free soloing through thinning ice and beautifully split alpine granite. Just under six and a half hours later, at 10:14 a.m., I awoke on the summit, crying and laughing, screaming “Fitz Roy” over and over.

AAJ Article

All free-solo, carrying only essential rappel gear (100 meters of 6 mm rope, stoppers, hexes, one ice screw, V-thread, three small Camalots, some sling, four locking ’biners, and eight Neutrinos).

AAJ Article