Showing all 43 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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7a+ | ★★★ Flight 666 - with Ellen | 39m, 19 | Geyikbayırı | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Dec 2022 | |||
Seemingly endless route! I saw myself drop off several times, glad I made it
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7a+ | ★★ Toros - with mantra | 20m, 9 | Geyikbayırı | ★ Good | Sun 24th Mar 2019 | |||
Whoop whoop!
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7a+ | ★★ Wind river - with mantra | Tournoux | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Aug 2022 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Planet of the Apes - with Lilly | 40m, 16 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Apr 2020 | |||
My home planet! The actual cruxes (into and out of the hole) didn't feel that hard to me, but I was still totally exhausted afterwards, wheezing through the steep, crimpy finish. This was like 99% onsight. I got a few helpful hints, but they weren't really make-or-break. Getting cheered on by the man Öztürk K. himself was a nice touch though.
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7a+ | ★★ Şairlerin Sultanı - with Ellen | 30m, 16 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th Mar 2020 | |||
This must have been the hardest 7a+ I did here so far. But maybe the hellish rope drag was also a factor. I'd highly recommend putting a 60cm draw in the last bolt before the middle anchor, and unclipping the one after it as soon as possible.
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7a+ |
★★ Climb on Work Later (Climb on Work Later P1)
- with
Nadja
1
| 35m | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Mar 2020 | |||
It took me a while to figure out the crux in the first attempt. On the second try, I cruised past the crux, but overestimated my remaining juice in the final bulge, took a nice fall. Third time's the charm! It even felt quite easy then. I should try harder stuff more often.
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8+ | ★★ Painkiller - with Ellen | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Jun 2020 | |||
I just wanted to give it another shot, not thinking that I'm ready to get past the final bulge. To my surprise, it worked out! I'm only reluctantly logging this as pink point though, since I had the first two bolts clipped...
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7a+ | ★★ Little Big Wall - with Ellen | 30m, 8 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Mar 2020 | |||
7a+ | ★ Explorer - with Nadja | 25m, 10 | Geyikbayırı | ★ Good | Tue 10th Mar 2020 | |||
Really hard to read at first, but my solution ended up being quite simple after all. Not that hard either, if you rest thoroughly before the crux.
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7a+ | Open up the Cake! - with Christoph Rauch | 10m | Malta | Average | Fri 23rd Sep 2016 | |||
Felt too easy after all.
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7a+ | ★★ Padişahlık Son - with mantra | 33m, 11 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Mar 2018 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Fire Spire — 2 attempts - with Ellen | 25m, 12 | Geyikbayırı | Mon 28th Nov 2022 | ||||
Technical slab in the beginning, gets hard at the very end, with an overhanging dihedral and a couple of traversing moves on tufas. Pretty straightforward once you know how.
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7a+ | ★★★ Legende einer Leidenschaft - with Ellen | 25m, 9 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Mar 2020 | |||
Awesome! Hard to read in some parts, therefore no onsight. In the crux, I had to reach across into a mono, pulling up into far away, semi-good holds. Didn't expect to send this on the second go!
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7a+ | ★★ Échappées belles - with Ellen | Tournoux | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Aug 2022 | ||||
8+ 8+ to 9- | ★★ Glänzende Mäander - with Ellen | 20m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Sep 2020 | |||
Another 8+/9- that felt more like an 8+ to me. The crux out of the overhang is hard to onsight (none of us made it), but totally doable if you know how. I struggled more in the slabby, slopery remainder. Somehow, this was very exhausting even though I had no pump or even heavy breathing. Great route!
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8+ 8+ to 9- | ★★ Hotline - with Christoph Rauch | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Jun 2020 | |||
Seems rather on the 8+ side. In any case, an awesome route!
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8+ | ★★ Helis Idee - with Ellen | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Jun 2021 | |||
I had the first to two bolts already clipped and gave the bouldery crux at the beginning one or two shots before going with the static solution ("eingedreht nach rechts"). I actually found the upper parts harder, and much appreciated the extension of the fourth quickdraw. I ended up putting my right hand in the crack of ASC Weg (but still within reach of my bolts), not sure how fair game that was.
Taping the left index and ring finger helped a lot with the sharp pocket in the beginning. |
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8+ | ★ Rauchende Strapse | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 27th May 2018 | |||
8+ | ★★ Inflare Kette - with Christoph Rauch | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th May 2021 | |||
Short boulder, yet sustained! Hard to figure out at first, and having two quickdraws in the third bolt is good idea to avoid an ugly fall in the crux.
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8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Skarabäus - with Ellen | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Jul 2020 | |||
Had the second bolt clipped (for peace of mind and a bit because I didn't expect to send it), but I don't think it mattered much.
I'd put the grade rather on the 8+ side, but maybe it's easier with more reach. |
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8+ | ★★ Unknown Pleasures - with Christoph Rauch | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Jun 2021 | |||
Finally! I couldn't recall any of my past beta, so it took one attempt to figure it out again, then another one to make all the mistakes and fail horribly, and a third where I finally just committed to my dyno solution without clipping first. Fun!
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7a+ 7a | ★★★ Dark Ways - with Christoph Rauch | 22m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 19th Sep 2016 | |||
Technical boulder at the start, then a tough, sustained upper section.
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7a+ | ★★★ Big Turkey - with Ellen | 30m, 9 | Geyikbayırı | Fri 18th Nov 2022 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Jah Jah City (Jaja City) | 40m, 16 | Geyikbayırı | Sat 21st Mar 2015 | ||||
1st pitch only
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7a+ | ★★★ Ralez David sonne - with mantra | 40m | Céüse | Thu 11th Aug 2022 | ||||
Amazing extension of Harley Davidson, but really hard for me. Happy to just arrive at the top 😊
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7a+ | ★★ Downpour - with mantra | 30m, 11 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Nov 2022 | |||
You'd expect the crux to be the bulge in the first half or the rooflet, but those are actually quite easy. It's the crimpy finish that gets you. Really great route, I just didn't want to overstrain my injured finger with a second go.
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7a+ | ★★★ Vanilla Sky - with Ellen | 41m, 17 | Geyikbayırı | Fri 2nd Dec 2022 | ||||
Thought I had the crux already behind me when I passed the tufa, but then I got totally thrown off in the sharp rock near the end. Couldn't find a good solution even after resting. Worth another try though!
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7a+ | ★★ La moule d'acier - with Lilly | Entre-les-Aygues | ★★ Very Good | Fri 9th Sep 2022 | ||||
7a+ 7a+/b | ★★ Morphic Fields - with Ellen | 30m | Leonidio | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | ||||
I should have guessed from the name that it's going to be reachy in the overhang... Good moves, but it felt like a weak line with Lykakia so close to it :-/
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8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Monsun - with mantra | 20m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 14th Jul 2022 | ||||
It took me quite a while to figure out a good beta for me, both for the crux at the second bolt as well as for the finish.
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8+ | ★★★ Ab geht die Post - with mantra | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | Thu 21st Jul 2022 | ||||
8+ | ★★ Röthenbacher Weg - with Ellen | 16m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Mon 3rd May 2021 | ||||
I had to puzzle a lot in the lower part. Strangely, my solution involves using a small pinch-like hold on the left that nobody else seems to use. Maybe it's just my bad footwork? Anyways, the actual crux at the top was even more difficult for me, and it took me a while to realize that it's just a reachy move to the very top right. It seemed way too far at first, but I guess traversing away from the bolt also blocked me mentally. I extended the next bolt with a 120cm sling, which helped a bit on the next go. It should be fine to do without that.
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8+ | ★★ Drachentöter - with Christoph Rauch | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 14th Nov 2020 | ||||
Very cool, but holding onto the arête is very much not my strong suite. I clipsticked almost every bolt but I think I did most of the moves at least. I'd need to be more in shape for this...
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8+ | ★★ Gruppenzwang - with Ellen | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 24th Jul 2020 | ||||
The crux is the 4-5 boulder moves to the first bolt (wouldn't do this without either a crash pad or clipsticking it). I've tried it a couple of times, but only half-stuck it once, and then couldn't figure out how to repeat that. I think seeing someone else doing it might have helped. I didn't want to exhaust myself on a boulder, so I went past it and finished the rest in one go. It's not too hard anymore, but you have to stay with it.
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8+ | ★★ Teach me, Tiger! - with mantra | 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2017 | |||
I can actually do this!
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8+ | ★★ Roter Teufel - with Christoph Rauch | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | ||||
Seems to be a great route! I couldn't do the crux move from the tiny crimp to the pocket, but it's doable. The rest is strenuous yet enjoyable. I should give it another shot when I'm stronger.
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8+ 8+/9- | ★ 250 Freunde - with mantra | 16m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 29th Jul 2022 | ||||
8+ | ★★ N´djami djami - with Ellen | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 21st Aug 2021 | ||||
The bolts were already in, and more importantly: there was a long sling in the anchor. I got cleanly to right before the reachy section (great so far). Had to rest, but it turned out to be quite doable for me. The only 8+ part seems to be the moves right before the anchor. Sweating in the sun and feeling like everything else in the route was more rewarding than this, I pulled myself up the sling
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7a+ | ★★ L'Empire Ottoman - with Ellen | 33m, 14 | Geyikbayırı | Thu 10th Mar 2022 | ||||
Went in here based on Samo's recommendation. Fought my way to the third bolt but couldn't make it through the wide dihedral. Some guys came and informed me that most people consider this at least 7b, and I'm only at the first, easier crux. this_kills_the_ambition.jpg At least they generously left me their clipstick, which I used to escape to a fixed draw of the neighboring route and clean it, since this one is just expansion bolts.
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7a+ | ★★ Serbest Stil - with Jenny | 17m, 8 | Geyikbayırı | Sun 1st Apr 2018 | ||||
There were quickdraws in, so I gave it shot. Couldn't do the move after the fourth bolt.
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7a+ | ★★ Sea of Illusions - with mantra | 20m | Malta | Thu 15th Sep 2016 | ||||
8+ | ★ Teufelsschisser - with Lilly | 13m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 7th Jul 2019 | ||||
Hard to the anchor, couldn't do it. Nice route, otherwise!
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8+ | Red Bull light - with Ellen | Frankenjura Süd | Thu 16th Jun 2022 | |||||
Promising along the first four bolts, then I couldn't figure it out at all. Talked to a local later, and the beta he gave me didn't sound doable for me...
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Showing all 43 ascents.