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Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,015 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 26th May 2024 - Gestalgar
Zona Peña María Ruinas
5b ~5c+ La Olla - with Sebastian Huland Sport 10m Good
Harder than the left neighbor. Might make sense to swap grades.

 
6a ~5c El Higueral - with Sebastian Huland Sport 10m, 4 Good
Initial holds also chipped. Nice but short further up.

 
7a El Campo - with Sebastian Huland Sport 8m Don't Bother
Pretty hard and fingery on almost entirely chipped holds

 
6c ~6c+ Vanacloig - with Sebastian Huland Sport 10m Average
6a+ Hard La Andenia - with Sebastian Huland Sport 10m Average
The start is harder than it looks

 
Mon 20th May 2024 - Jérica
Pared de la Torre Can volador
6c+ Aparente mente - with Falko Sport 15m, 7
6aish climbing until the yellow streak. Then hard crimp and pocket pulling - too hard for me.

 
7a Agorafobia — 2 attempts - with Falko Sport 25m, 12 Very Good
Working a bit on the crux into the sidepull.

Falko and I were debating whether you were "allowed" to use the good pockets on the left to get to the anchor or whether you had to go more direct and straight up (harder).

 
Mon 20th May 2024 - Jérica
Pared de la Torre Mestre de melodies
6a+ Donde no hay mata no hay patata - with Falko Sport 30m, 13 Good
The route goes a bit zig zag. Long quickdraws recommended. I also unclipped the bolt after the flake for less ropedrag.

 
Sun 19th May 2024 - Gestalgar
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María
6c Fumando María - with Sebastian Huland Sport 20m, 5 Good
Felt better than I remembered. But still don't have a good sequence for the crux.

 
Sat 11th May 2024 - Gestalgar
Zona Peña María Ruinas
6b+ ~6c+ El Corral de Torres - with Sebastian Huland, Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa, Alfonso Sport 8m Good
One rest at third quickdraw.

Still can't clip the second quickdraw properly.

 
6c Maya Maya — 2 attempts - with Sebastian Huland, Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa, Alfonso Sport 12m Good
First attempt to put up draws and re-learn the moves. Second to send.

 
6a La francesa nos bombardea - with Sebastian Huland, Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa, Alfonso Sport 12m, 5 Average
Same same.

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - Gestalgar
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María
6c+ Variante Peña María - with Sebastian Huland Sport Classic
Today was not the day...

 
Sun 5th May 2024 - Gestalgar
Zona Peña María Ruinas
6b+ Isabella - with Sebastian Huland Sport 10m Average
As most of the routes here, this is basically just a boulder problem at the start - and then significantly easier. Hard to say whether I agree with the given grade, 6b+. Probably soft.

 
6a Hard Sin oficio ni beneficio - with Sebastian Huland Sport 12m Good
Reachy

 
Wed 1st May 2024 - Montesa
La Mola de Montesa Pedra cristal-lina
6b ~6b+ Xorrollera Pinza Hut - with José Maria, Lola, Toni, Inma, Rus Sport 10m, 5 Good
Before reaching the tufa there is already quite a stretch to pass a relatively blank section.

The lower part of the tufa is still good, but the upper part was really hard - at least if you don't want to wander into the other routes that are really close.

After a number of different holds for both hands and feet, I eventually found a combination and sequence through the tufa. But it was quite hard (6b+/c?).

 
7a+ ~6c+ Caxi-baxe — 2 attempts - with José Maria, Lola, Toni, Inma, Rus Sport 10m Good
Found a new beta: jumping to the big hole with the left hand. That felt quite good and is way easier than trying to get there with the right hand.

I can imagine that this was graded 7a+ with the right hand beta in mind. But with the left hand beta it's maybe only 6c+...?

 
6b Baltario, el frare escalador — 2 attempts - with José Maria, Lola, Toni, Inma, Rus Sport 10m Good
Stuck the dynamic start move on the second go, the rest went smoothly.

 
Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Gestalgar
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María
6b+ Hard Sin nombre (46) — 3 attempts - with Sebastian Huland Sport Very Good
More attempts, but still lacking the power endurance to reach the jug.

The bottom part, including the start, goes well now

 
Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Gestalgar
Zona Peña María Ruinas
6b Hard Chelo — 2 attempts - with Sebastian Huland Sport 12m Don't Bother
This route is essentially just the start boulder. Not worth it.

 
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Real de Montroi
Gac
6c ~6c+ All i oli de morter - with Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa Sport
Super steep route. Feels a lot harder than the 6b+ on the left.

The rock quality in the overhang is not very good. It's crumbly at times and I can imagine that some of the crimps now won't be there anymore in a year.

The biggest jug of the overhang was loose and I kicked it free on my way down. The good news is that there is still a good hold behind where the good jug was. In any case, the belayer should wear a helmet.

 
6b+ Hard Makako — 2 attempts - with Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa Sport Very Good
The route has plenty of big holds - except for one section in the overhang where you have to pull hard and make a committing dynamic move to reach the third bolt.

 
Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Real de Montroi
Malló
4c Mante - with Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa Sport 7 Average
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Gestalgar
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María
6b ~6b+ Sin nombre (48) - with Falko, Sebastian Huland Sport
A lot harder than I expected. Difficult to get over the lip.

 
Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Bellus-Alboy
Aventador Mili
6c ~6b+ Coneiximent de mosquit - with Agustin Sport 26m, 11 Very Good
6a+ Easy Jerónimo - with Agustin Sport 10 Very Good
Wed 20th Mar 2024 - Gestalgar
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María
6a+ ~6b+ Ha nacido para la alegría - with Sebastian Huland, Falko, José Sport 12m, 6 Don't Bother
Tough start and then a hard and morpho middle section. Not sure why the local guidebook has this at 6a+. A grade around 6b+ or 6c seems more appropriate to me.

Comparing this directly to 'John no es Bon Jovi', this is definitely harder. Probably the hardest out of the "easy" climbs on the left side.

 
6b Hard John no es Bon Jovi - with Sebastian Huland, Falko, José Sport 12m, 6 Average
Tue 19th Mar 2024 - Real de Montroi
Malló
6a+ Lujuria - with Agustin Sport Very Good
The first half is a technical and almost vertical slab. On the second half the wall angle is a more reclined and it's a relaxed climb to the top.

Beta: On the technical slab below I made the mistake of going up and right instead of heading left for the obvious big and chalked up ledge. I thought it would be too far left. However, there is a nice sidepull that brings you back into the center. My variant on the right felt quite a bit harder and I inwardly cursed the bolters for assigning such a "low" grade. If you keep to the left, then 6a+ is probably alright.

 
6a/a+ ~6a+ Los lacayos de la mari - with Agustin Sport 6 Very Good
There was not much magnesia on the route and I found this quite hard to read. The movements are really nice and I'm quite happy we did the route.

While climbing the 5 on the left, Agus kicked down the big loose block which sat below the overhang. While I don't think it makes a difference for the grade of the route, I do think it deserves 6a+.

 
5b ~5c Rempalago - with Agustin Sport 7 Very Good
Quite interesting for a 5! Good warmup, I'd say.

 
Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Buñol
Carcalín Cueva Celta
6a Dame más - with Falko Sport 15m, 8 Classic
Dame más! This corner-crack-climb is so much fun that you don't want it to end.

 
6a+ Easy Vamonos pal sol - with Falko Sport 18m, 8 Classic
Great route. Quite some meters in the overhang, too, but the holds are so good.

 
6b+ Easy ¿Y tú, pa qué entrenas? - with Falko Sport 22m, 9 Very Good
Second bolt pre-clipped.

Super route. Almost fell off between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Then easier terrain. A lot of good rests before the final overhang. Still got pumped doing the overhang and almost fell off. But was saved eventually by one of the good holes at the end.

Compared to 'El jabalí no tiene pila' this route felt a lot easier.

 
6b+ ~6c El jabalí no tiene pila - with Falko Sport 22m, 11 Good
Hard start boulder. Not sure if there is an "easy" sequence for it. As long as I'm not aware of any, I'd give this a 6c just for the start.

The rest of the route is quite technical, lot of sloper holds and not always easy to read.

Still recommendable. (But I would pre-clip the second bolt.)

 
Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Buñol
Carcalín Corral de Cabras
6b ~6b+ Els Bunyolers — 2 attempts - with Falko Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
Second bolt pre-clipped.

On the first attempt I tried my luck with the crack - which was a bad idea as I couldn't get any purchase. Lowered down and did another attempt where I skipped the crack. Then that whole start boulder is actually quite interesting.

Slab was harder and thinner than I remembered. But the feet are good, so with a couple of good rests I managed to keep it together till the end.

 
6a ~6a+ Tita la fisurita - with Falko Sport 18m, 7 Good
Good route. Would be very good if it was not for the polished feet at the crack.

 
Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Chulilla
Pantano Master
6c/c+ Nombre desconocido (2) - with Rena Sport 11
This route hasn't been climbed a lot, yet. There was no magnesia on it at all.

Bit awkward start, then alright until the big ledge. From here a desperate section on small crimps and bad footholds. The slab then eases a bit but remains challenging - not offering much for the hands.

 
6c Lluvia negra - with Rena Sport 43m, 20 Very Good
Some tricky sections in the vertical/steep wall. And then a never-ending slab.

 
6b Mecano en Dios (L1) - with Rena Sport 22m, 9 Very Good
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Altura
Sargantana
6c+ Sinfonía Kanabika - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Sebastian, Falko, Sören Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
6c ~6b+ Taura D'abrila — 2 attempts - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Sebastian, Falko, Sören Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Good route with ample rest positions.

 
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Altura
Kan Pikola
6a+ ~6a Sindrome de cobardía - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Falko, Sören, Sebastian Huland Sport 20m, 8 Classic
Huge holds throughout.

 
6a ~6a+ Trío de Mikeles - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Sebastian, Falko, Sören Sport 15m, 6 Average
Hard move to get to the anchor. Maybe "6a+ hard"...?

 
5c FanFan el escalador - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Sebastian, Falko, Sören Sport 15m, 6 Good
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Pego
Placa del Sol
6c La fila de ta tia - with Isa Sport 25m
Crux felt hard. Not really sure I found the proper sequence. It seemed like you can reach the good pocket high up with the right hand if you place the feet high and twist sideways.

 
6b+ Borrego volador - with Isa Sport 20m, 9 Very Good
6b Cabra loca - with Isa Sport 20m, 8
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Pego
Iniciació
5c Ximet - with Isa Sport 12m, 6 Good
A bit polished already

 
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Bellus-Alboy
Cova Petxina
5c Per a nones - with Sebastian Huland Sport 18m Good
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy
Altet Sol
7a ~6c+ El guerrero pacífico - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian Sport Classic
7a Rokodromo - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian Sport 10m, 5 Classic
6b+ Easy Los demonios - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian Sport 18m, 8 Very Good
With the right beta it felt quite relaxed today.

 
6a Sin nombre (3) - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian Sport 5 Good
Looks easy from below. Then you think, oh, this might be harder than I thought. But then you find the holds and realize it's not as bad.... 6a

 
Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy
Barranc Fondo Escarcha Negra
4c+ Vía nueva (1) - with Sebastian Huland Sport 7m, 3 Average
Too short to be really engaging. Has one move where you need to stand up on a good foothold with poor hands.

 
Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy
Barranc Fondo Estiu
7a Moco de pavo — 2 attempts - with Sebastian Huland Sport 6 Classic
Two more attempts working the route in toprope. Feels doable with a bit of dedication.

But may have to wait for next year.

 
6a El pastiset - with Sebastian Huland Sport Good
Great day at Barranc Fondo today. We had the entire place for us alone - and that on a Saturday.

The route is a good warm-up. I realized just in time that I had started up the 6b+ on the right.

 
6b Pistacho - with Sebastian Huland Sport Very Good
Felt pumped at the end - despite the mostly big holds.

 
Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Gandia
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Fundició
6c A la sombra — 2 attempts - with Falko, Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez Sport 7m, 4 Very Good
This route asks a lot from you - and then some more.

Dogged my way up from bolt to bolt. Felt quite hard for 6c.

 
6c+ Easy Última Alberténcia - with Falko, Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez Sport 12m, 6 Very Good
Conditions were good today. And I managed to send on the first attempt - thanks to Jose who put up the draws.

I had imagined myself cruising through the crux today, but eventually it was a huge struggle. I kept going and barely made it to the jug above. Fingers numb from exhaustion and the cold.

 
Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy
Cova Petxina
6c Evolution - with Sebastian Sport Very Good
Had another go with the rope already in. Felt surprisingly easy this time. I also climbed it differently. Went left at the 3rd or 4th bolt instead of straight up - where the mono pocket gives you a hard time. That way it might very well just be 6b+(?).

 
5b ~5c Casporillo - with Sebastian Sport 16m Very Good
Got lucky on this one. It started raining when I was almost at the chains already.

 
5b ~5c És Carlota - with Sebastian Sport 20m Very Good
Many pockets and slots. Didn't feel easier than 'El bombonet de Pinet' to the left

 
5c El bombonet de Pinet - with Sebastian Sport 18m Good
Would have been nice if the anchor had been put 1-2m higher

 
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Betxi
Jurassic Park
5 Techín Techón - with Falko Sport Average
Strange route with unclear path. First you climb up this ladder which is no more than 3, and then you're supposed to haul yourself over the roof - which is no way 6a+ - instead of just stepping onto the roof from the right? And then the route continues to the top at difficulty 2. That just makes no sense.

So, I guess you can force it by wanting to do that roof, then it's this isolated thing and nothing in line with the rest of the route - and I don't think it goes for 6a+. A more logical route is to keep slightly right at the roof and just step over from the right (grade 4+/5?).

 
6a+ ~6b Joroba 2 — 2 attempts - with Falko Sport Good
Botched the OS attempt going over the roof. Still strenuous but solid second go.

The topo from Apeu Muntanya on elev-arte has this route only at 6a while the Castellón guide from Luis Alfonso registers it as 6b. I agree more with the latter.

 
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Betxi
Vora Ríu
6a ~5c+ Ampedrao - with Falko Sport Good
There's always a good ledge that you can grab or stand on. Whenever you think you might have to climb actually, you can just reach up and there's the ledge already.

The top section feels a bit pointless. The last draw is placed quite low. I guess you'd easily fall on the ledge if you fell when clipping the chains.

 
6a+ ~6a Torreata - with Falko Sport Average
In the end the bulge was easier than it looked. We both kept to the right at the first bolt to avoid the loose hold left of the bolt.

Went to the anchor of 'Per la paella' because we didn't know where the route actually goes.

 
4a Esplai no sues Sport Average
Putting up the rope for the kids.

 
Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Gandia
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Fundició
5b El Ser - with Sebastian, José Sport 18m Very Good
Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Cucala
Sector 2
6c Los picapiedra - with Falko, Victor, Sebastian Sport 18m
Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Cucala
Sector 1
5c Optimista - with Falko, Victor, Sebastian Sport Very Good
Good holds throughout and friendly bolting.

 
Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Cucala
Sector 2
6b ~6b+ Tragaperras - with Falko, Victor, Sebastian Sport 18m, 7 Very Good
Easy and fun stemming until the small roof. Strenuous to pass the roof, but the holds are actually quite alright - once you get your feet high enough to get them.

 
6b ~6b+ La cucala - with Falko, Victor, Sebastian Sport 18m, 9 Average
Very awkward start. Missed clipping the 5th quickdraw as I climbed through the ramp and over the bulge. Not recommended as a warmup.

 
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Cucala
Sector 1
6b Alta tensión - with Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Victor, Julian Sport 28m Very Good
Lower crux went well. But then I read the upper slab section badly. Maybe I was also too pumped - although there are good rests along the way. Very good route!

 
6c+ El purgatorio extensión - with Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Victor, Julian Sport 25m Don't Bother
Found no climbable sequence for me. But you can make your way to the chains easy enough by pulling on quickdraws. Maybe I don't have the imagination how this can be a 6c+.

Unlikely I'll be coming back for this any time soon.

 
6a+ El purgatorio - with Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Victor, Julian Sport 15m Very Good
Makes you work - but has decent holds throughout.

 
Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Cucala
Sector 0
5c ~5c+ No es lugar para tontos - with Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Victor, Julian Sport Good
Harder than it looks from the ground.

 
Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Cucala
Sector 1
6b Menudos Mutantes - with José Sport 20m, 7 Good
Bit of a one move wonder

 
5b Chiki park - with José Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
6b Ayla house - with José Sport 20m Very Good
4c Jaleo - with José Sport Good
Longer than I thought.

 
Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Gandia
Bovedón El Bovedón
6b Quin Tomás Sport 15m Very Good
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Gandia
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Fundició
6b ~6b+ Pepestroika — 3 attempts - with Luis, Carmen, Inma, Toni, Pau Sport 18m Classic
3rd one is the charm. The bottom section was pumpy every time. Cool climb, despite the polish.

 
6a ~6a+ Tamborinaes del 93 - with Luis, Carmen, Inma, Toni, Pau Sport 19m Very Good
Very good climb. Both entertaining and challenging throughout.

 
Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Alcalali
Main
6b ~6a+ Yorkshire Lads - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa Sport 26m Very Good
I'll count this as a flash instead of an onsight, because of climbing the right neighbour, where I've sort of climbed half the crux already.

Apart from the short crux around the tufa, this route is just leisure climbing on huge holds and pockets. Is it a 6b because of the crux? Or maybe just 6a+?

 
6c Easy War of the Roses - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa Sport 28m Average
This route should not have been bolted!

The neighboring routes left and right are so close, that you're constantly wondering whether you are actually in your own route or already climbing the other one.

Additionally, if there's a climber on one of the other two routes, there's a real danger of falling on top of them (or vice versa).

All of this reduces the joy of the climb. In terms of grade, maybe soft 6c or 6b+.

 
6b Hard Dijous i bo - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa Sport 25m Very Good
As we had done Stahlgewitter already, we finished on the lower chains to the right. The hard part anyhow seems to be the slab at the bottom.

 
6a+ Stahlgewitter - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa Sport 25m Classic
Very nice!

 
Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Alcalali
Left
4+ Ribeye - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa Sport 14m Very Good
Good on good holds. We found a snake in one the cracks at the start.

 
Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Montesa
La Mola de Montesa Pedra cristal-lina
4b ~4+ Eric - with Agus, Tamara Sport Average
I thought the first step actually quite hard for being just a 4.

 
Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Alzira
Tallat Roig Alexandre
6b Eròtica esportiva - with Isa, José Maria, Juan, Inma, Amparo Sport Very Good
Climbed it - surprise - in one go.

 
6b+ ~6c Retretes Vila - with Isa, José Maria, Juan, Inma, Amparo Sport Very Good
Barely managed the physical overhang at the start. But had to take a rest on the thin crux mid way. The rest is okay.

 
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Peñas Altas Torrechiva
6c Apnea - with Falko, Sebastian Sport 38m, 18 Very Good
Quite easygoing save for the crux high up. In itself the crux is not that hard, but you've done quite a bit of climbing to get there. And near the top there is quite some rope drag, too.

We used an 80m rope and there were quite some meters left on the rope. The climbers who were on the route before told us they had used a 70m rope and it was just long enough.

 
4+ Tres pistones - with Falko, Sebastian Sport Very Good
Quite entertaining for the grade

 
Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Lucena del Cid
6b Hard El percance - with Falko Sport 22m, 10 Classic
Also great

 
7a Welcome to Lucena — 2 attempts - with Falko Sport 22m, 10 Classic
Great route. Is there a way to avoid the awkward change of hands in the pocket?

 
6a+ Drama en Gama - with Falko Sport 9 Good
Quite alright climb.

Not quite sure what grade it is. I thought it easier than 'El percance' (6b). So, maybe 6a+. But we both struggled a bit with the crux, so I'll settle for 6a+/b.

 
Fri 17th Nov 2023 - Chulilla
Tabaira Pesadilla
6a Easy Aguanta Jordi - with Isa, Sergio Sport 11 Good
6b+ ~6b La discordia - with Isa, Sergio Sport 36m, 17 Classic

Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,015 ascents.