Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6c+ |
★★★ Zeppelin
- with
Khutsishvili, Shota
1
4+
20m
2
6a+
25m
3
5+
25m
4
6c
20m
5
6c+
25m
6
5+
30m
7
6b+
25m
8
3
40m
9
6b
35m
10
3
65m
| 310m | El Chorro | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 9th Mar 2018 | |||
Didn't feel ready for this climb. Luckily my partner, Shota, talked me into doing it. One of the best multi-pitch of my life!
Stunning views!
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6b |
★★★ Monsieur
- with
Falko
1
5+
35m
lead by
Falko
2
6a
35m
lead by
Falko
3
5+
40m
4
6b
30m
lead by
Falko
5
5
30m
6
6a
25m
lead by
Falko
7
6a
35m
| 230m | Montanejos | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Apr 2021 | |||
Super day out on this route. We combined L1+L2 as well as L6+L7. The 6b pitch is fun and doable. Though I was happy I did not have to lead it today.
All in all a super diverse and fun route in a great setting.
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6b |
★★★ Lord of the Thais (Circus Oz/Lord of the Thais)
1
6b
| 120m, 46 | Railay | Sat 10th Jan 2015 | ||||
6b |
★★ Juego sucio
1
6b
| 60m | Santa Ana | Sun 30th Oct 2016 | ||||
6b 6c | ★★ Provinciano Marrano | 30m | El Chorro | ★ Good | Tue 10th Dec 2019 | |||
Not very sustained
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6b 6b+ | ★★ Llorona de Azul Celeste (Tararetxan tonteries) - with Falko | 25m, 11 | Jérica | ★ Good | Mon 24th May 2021 | |||
Close call in the crux section in the middle. Further up cruising. Top easier than the 6a+ to the right.
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6b | ★★ Destiny | 22m, 9 | Crazy Horse | Dec 2016 | ||||
6b | ★★ Kee Dtak (Kee Dtak (Diarrhea)) | 22m, 12 | Crazy Horse | Dec 2016 | ||||
6b | ★★ Crack X | 45m | Batu Caves | Sat 12th Oct 2013 | ||||
6b | ★ OK Carole | Buoux | Thu 15th Oct 2015 | |||||
6b | ★★ Nupcies (Nupcias) | 18m | Gandia | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Nov 2019 | |||
6b | ★★ Carpe Diem | 16m, 8 | Kalymnos | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | ||||
6b | ★★ Monkey Love | 25m, 7 | Railay | Sat 10th Jan 2015 | ||||
6b | ★ Split Impression | 30m, 16 | Batu Caves | Sat 1st Nov 2014 | ||||
6b | ★ Old Snake | 22m, 8 | Ton Sai | Tue 6th Jan 2015 | ||||
6b | ★★ Zangania - with Julian Nohales | 25m, 11 | Jérica | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | |||
The first crux is where you'd expect it. But I didn't see the second one with the slopers coming. Got through it with patience.
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6b | ★★ Tres i l'uròleg | Camarasa | Sat 29th Oct 2016 | |||||
6b | ★★ Mejor que bien | 32m | Santa Ana | Wed 2nd Nov 2016 | ||||
6b | ★★ Mpyra | 25m | Kalymnos | Sun 20th Mar 2016 | ||||
6b Hard | ★★★ Atención que puede haber rebote - with Batiste | Alzira | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Nov 2022 | ||||
Great route. Really only starts when you get to the orange rock. But then the crack makes you work left and right. Pump increases as you go higher. Luckily there are also good rest positions, I just made it to the chains.
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6b ~6a+ | ★★ El profanador de la cantera - with Falko | 20m | Cucala | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Feb 2023 | |||
Quite enjoyable. No real hard crux on this one in my opinion. I have to admit, that I continued along the crack right at the last bolt. Later I checked the moves going straight up, and that sequence is a bit harder. So, if you do that, then you can probably give yourself the 6b send. Staying right is easier and fun
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6b | ★★ Emocional - with Alberto | 25m | Atzeneta del Maestrat | Tue 25th Aug 2020 | ||||
6b Easy | ★★ Cor-dor - with Falko | 15m | Vallat | ★★ Very Good | Thu 26th May 2022 | |||
6b | ★★ Cuentos chinos - with Falko | 30m | Araya | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Jan 2023 | |||
Very enjoyable route with a spicy move on the tufas to finish.
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6b ~6a+ | ★★ La Lovera - with Falko, | 12m | Gestalgar | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jun 2022 | |||
Till the ledge you need to think a bit where to put feet and hands, but not really hard. From the ledge you can follow the diagonal crack until you are at the top of the vertical section. Also not too hard. From there it's a very easy slab to the anchor.
I don't really understand why the plate at the foot of the route says 6b+. Maybe you're not supposed to use the crack? But that doesn't make sense to me either. |
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6b | ★★★ Llàgrimes de Sang - with Vicente, "J" | 30m | Serra de Segaria | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jun 2022 | |||
6b ~6a+ | ★★ Sin nombre (1) - with Falko, José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Julián, Victor | 10 | Araya | ★ Good | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | |||
Not bad but not particularly memorable either.
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6b A0 |
★ Asaltamontes
- with
Pablo, Sabrina
1
25
2
6b
30
3
6b A0
30
4
6b
30
5
6b
30
6
6b
30
| 180m, 12 | Gestalgar | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | |||
On a hot and sunny day. Rewarded with a nice view from the top. The pitches are not very sustained.
Pitch number 5 is really beautiful and exposed.
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6b |
★ Sopa con ondas (Sopo con ondas P1)
1
6b
20m
| 20m | El Chorro | ★ Good | Mon 9th Dec 2019 | |||
7 | ★★ Like Indian Creek | 18m, 5 | Hohburger Berge | Sun 6th Aug 2017 | ||||
7 | ★★★ The Edge | 35m, 9 | Löbejün | Sun 5th Jun 2016 | ||||
7 | ★★ Die Arroganz der Macht | 18m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 14th Oct 2017 | ||||
6b ~6a+ | ★★ Yorkshire Lads - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa | 26m | Alcalali | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Dec 2023 | |||
I'll count this as a flash instead of an onsight, because of climbing the right neighbour, where I've sort of climbed half the crux already.
Apart from the short crux around the tufa, this route is just leisure climbing on huge holds and pockets. Is it a 6b because of the crux? Or maybe just 6a+? |
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6b | ★★ 3 Brothers | 22m, 7 | Batu Caves | Sun 12th Jan 2014 | ||||
6b | ★★ Jana's Kitchen | 25m, 10 | Kalymnos | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | ||||
6b | ★★ Monahiki Elia | 25m, 9 | Kalymnos | Fri 1st Apr 2016 | ||||
6b | ★★ Pic Pic | 30m, 12 | Kalymnos | Thu 24th Mar 2016 | ||||
6b | Gear on ★★ Un any estrany - with Jorge | 30m | Jérica | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Jun 2022 | |||
Very cool climb. The vertical middle section had me sweat quite a bit. Thereafter many good rests await.
Draws were already on.
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6b | ★★★ Dom | 40m, 18 | Kalymnos | Tue 29th Mar 2016 | ||||
6b | ★★ Kagamandurrio | 18m, 6 | Jérica | Average | Sat 20th Jun 2020 | |||
6b | ★★ Democrature | 15m, 6 | Namphapayai Camp | Sat 2nd Nov 2013 | ||||
6b | ★★ Pecho lobo | 20m | El Chorro | Sun 11th Mar 2018 | ||||
6b Hard | Gear on ★ Xocolate Sexy - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez | 15m, 5 | Alto Mijares | Average | Sun 18th Jun 2023 | |||
The route lacks a bit of continuity. Some easy steps get you before a small bulge where you need to pull on crimps to get over it. Then you can relax again on a big ledge and gather your wits and think about how to reach that undercling pocket from where you can clip the chains.
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6b | Gear on ★★ Mecano en Dios (L1) - with Rena | 22m, 9 | Chulilla | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Mar 2024 | |||
6b | ★★ Canglejo | 15m, 6 | Bellus-Alboy | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | ||||
6b ~6a+ | Gear on ★★ Carros de foc - with Luis | 15m | Bellus-Alboy | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th Oct 2023 | |||
Enjoyable and varied lab climb. Though I didn't find any real hard bit. Therefore I believe it's a rather soft 6b or even only 6a+
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6b Easy | Gear on ★★★ Pata de cabra | 20m, 7 | Mas de Domingo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | |||
It feels so good when you squeeze into the off-width high-up! Good and diverse route.
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6b | Gear on ★★ Pistacho - with Sebastian Huland | Bellus-Alboy | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Feb 2024 | ||||
Felt pumped at the end - despite the mostly big holds.
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6b | Gear on ★★ Loma La Casa - with Adri | 12m | Gestalgar | ★ Good | Sun 14th May 2023 | |||
6b Hard | Gear on ★ Dijous i bo - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa | 25m | Alcalali | ★★ Very Good | Mon 11th Dec 2023 | |||
As we had done Stahlgewitter already, we finished on the lower chains to the right. The hard part anyhow seems to be the slab at the bottom.
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6b | ★★★ La hora del te - with Claudio, Rena | 20m | Chulilla | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Mar 2023 | |||
Good route. Bit awkward to get onto the big ledge. Then it's nice moves on big holds.
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6b | ★ Los chupipuntos - with Falko | 15m, 7 | Jérica | ★ Good | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||
Quite close to its left neighbor. Shares some of the good holds (?). Probably easier if you are tall.
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5.10c | ★★ As It Is | 14m | Euiam-amjang | Sun 20th Sep 2015 | ||||
5.10c | Chuncle B | 12m | Euiam-amjang | Sun 20th Sep 2015 | ||||
6b 6b+ | ★ Top Knot | 10m, 4 | Railay | Fri 9th Jan 2015 | ||||
7 | ★ Stockduster | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 15th Oct 2017 | ||||
7 | ★★ Mann oder Memme | 13m, 6 | Humboldtbunker | ★★★ Classic | 2018 | |||
6b | ★★ Monsoon | 68m | Batu Caves | Sun 12th Jan 2014 | ||||
6b | ★★ Devil's hand | 25m, 8 | Dairy Farm | Sat 29th Mar 2014 | ||||
6b | ★★ Asgarracollons - with Falko, Viet | 25m, 12 | Jérica | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jan 2023 | |||
Went down quite well today, although I still felt the pump on the second half.
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6b | ★★ Cap Arvitihis (Cap Aarvithis) | 25m | Kalymnos | Sun 27th Mar 2016 | ||||
6b | ★★ Baltario, el frare escalador — 2 attempts - with José Maria, Lola, Toni, Inma, Rus | 10m | Montesa | ★ Good | Wed 1st May 2024 | |||
Stuck the dynamic start move on the second go, the rest went smoothly.
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6b | ★★ I No Speak England | 25m, 11 | Ton Sai | Sat 10th Jan 2015 | ||||
6b | ★★ Latena | 14m | Oriente | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Jul 2019 | |||
6b | ★★ La panxa | 18m | Montesa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Oct 2019 | |||
6b Hard | ★ John no es Bon Jovi - with Sebastian Huland, Falko, José | 12m, 6 | Gestalgar | Average | Wed 20th Mar 2024 | |||
6b | ★★ Cierra que te cierra !! (Sin nombre (17)) | 18m, 8 | Gestalgar | ★ Good | Thu 5th Sep 2019 | |||
6b | ★★★ De Chulilla a Loriguilla (No name (20)) | 16m, 7 | Gestalgar | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | ||||
6b Hard | ★ La Barraca Zorras - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Falko | 8m, 5 | Gestalgar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th May 2023 | |||
Found a necessary rest this time.
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6b 6a+ | ★★ Make a Way | 27m, 10 | Railay | Fri 2nd Jan 2015 | ||||
6b 6b+ | ★★★ Hoy es el futuro | 15m, 6 | Algímia d'Alfara | ★ Good | Sun 16th Feb 2020 | |||
This time a foothold came off, but with no bad consequences. Would be a nice climb if it wasn't for the bad rock quality.
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7 | ★★ Heimatlos | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 17th Jul 2016 | ||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ Pepestroika — 3 attempts - with Luis, Carmen, Inma, Toni, Pau | 18m | Gandia | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Dec 2023 | |||
3rd one is the charm. The bottom section was pumpy every time. Cool climb, despite the polish.
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6b | Gear on ★★ Yorkshire pudding - with Lucy | 35m, 15 | Chulilla | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Dec 2022 | |||
Super nice and flowy route. Definitely worthwhile.
If it wasn't for the uncomfortable, slippery start... Edit: Having thought on this for a while, I'm changing the ascent to pinkpoint. The crux for me is at the last bolt, and I climbed and tried that bit on the neighboring route (with which it shares the anchor). For the sake of completeness, the first three bolts were pre-clipped. |
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6b ~6b+ | ★★★ Els Bunyolers — 2 attempts - with Falko | 20m, 9 | Buñol | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Mar 2024 | |||
Second bolt pre-clipped.
On the first attempt I tried my luck with the crack - which was a bad idea as I couldn't get any purchase. Lowered down and did another attempt where I skipped the crack. Then that whole start boulder is actually quite interesting. Slab was harder and thinner than I remembered. But the feet are good, so with a couple of good rests I managed to keep it together till the end. |
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6b | ★ Estornuts | 3 | Montesa | ★ Good | Sun 1st Mar 2020 | |||
6b Hard | ★★ Loren / Monodedo diabólico — 2 attempts - with Andrés | 5 | Cheste | ★ Good | Sat 9th Apr 2022 | |||
Slab with not much to hold onto.
On the onsight I unfortunately z-clipped - will never know if I had made it. The 2nd attempt was just bad. Third go it was then.
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6b/b+ Hard | ★★ Sin nombre (1) - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Falko, Juanjo | 10m | Gestalgar | ★ Good | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | |||
Did the first two bolts more on the left now. Seems more logical as you get the holds the "right" way. And definitely easier than going right. This changes my opinion about the grade. 6b is probably right.
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6b | ★★★ Maldita sea mi suerte - with Diego | Bellus-Alboy | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jan 2021 | ||||
6b Hard | ★★ Chelo — 2 attempts - with Sebastian Huland | 12m | Gestalgar | Don't Bother | Sun 14th Apr 2024 | |||
This route is essentially just the start boulder. Not worth it.
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6b | ★★★ A cargar a la via - with Falko | 40m, 21 | Jérica | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||
Climbed as a continuation of 'Artistas...'. Took good rests today along the route. This time up straight from the last bolt - seems easier than going left around.
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7 | ★★ Direkte Feindschaft | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 26th Sep 2015 | ||||
6b | ★★ Short & Savage | 8m, 2 | Railay | Sat 15th Jun 2019 | ||||
7 | ★ Minusman links | Weser-Leine-Bergland | Sun 16th Jun 2019 | |||||
6b | ★★★ Don Lucas | 20m, 5 | El Chorro | Sat 15th Jun 2019 | ||||
6b | ★★ Yonki woman de la roca - with Falko | 20m, 7 | Cucala | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Oct 2023 | |||
Great diverse slab climb.
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6b | ★ Menudos Mutantes - with José | 20m, 7 | Cucala | ★ Good | Thu 4th Jan 2024 | |||
Bit of a one move wonder
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7 | ★★ Minusman | Weser-Leine-Bergland | Sat 15th Jun 2019 | |||||
6b | ★★ Mariconuel | 32m, 11 | Jérica | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Jun 2020 | |||
6b | ★★ Quin Tomás | 15m | Gandia | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Jan 2024 | |||
6b | ★ Cabra loca - with Isa | 20m, 8 | Pego | Fri 8th Mar 2024 | ||||
6b | ★★★ Ayla house - with José | 20m | Cucala | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Jan 2024 | |||
6b | ★★ Los secretos del movimiento - with Agustin | 30m, 13 | Jérica | ★ Good | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | |||
That's an interesting line but really odd bolting. You often find yourself thinking "Why is the bolt so far to the right?"
A rebolting and new placement of some of the bolts would do this good. |
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6b | ★★ Yedrita estate quieta - with Falko | 18m | Montanejos | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | |||
Sharp
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6b | ★★ Eròtica esportiva - with Isa, José Maria, Juan, Inma, Amparo | Alzira | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Dec 2023 | ||||
Climbed it - surprise - in one go.
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6b | ★★★ No A La Guerra | 200m | Gestalgar | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Sep 2019 | |||
fell out of the blue on the slab on pitch 7. Guess foot must have slipped...
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6b |
★★ Marijuana vegetal (L1) (Marijuana vegetal P1)
- with
Luis
1
6b
| Alzira | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Apr 2021 | ||||
We did only pitch 1. Cool start behind and around the big block. Strenuous and a bit polished until you are squeezed under the big roof that feels quite large as you crouch underneath. Although there are good holds beneath and above the roof it's not easy to overcome. Felt a bit harder than 6a+ for me.
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6b 6c | ★★ R.S.I. (San Casporro de Asís) | Bellus-Alboy | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | |||||
6b 6c | ★★ Thor - with Luis | 40m | Vallada | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Jun 2021 | |||
We thought this was GREIM and got on it by accident as our warmup climb. The guide seems to have the bottom parts of this and its right neighbors drawn incorrectly.
The crux sequence on the black slab went well, but my stamina was poor. Had to take a couple of rests. |
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6b 6c | ★ En espera de subvención - with Falko | 15m, 6 | Jérica | ★ Good | Mon 24th May 2021 | |||
Such a struggle to get through the crack. Thought this was over when stepping out of the crack. Unfortunately was too pumped and couldn't keep it together.
Lots of dirt and vegetation above the crack. Apparently a 6c. Felt a lot easier than that. |