Ascents as trad by Martin Danger

The crux at the start of the climb and the promising but not so good gear placements make this climb a little tougher than it first looked.

Lead with pre-placed gear - thanks Lance!

Definitely should have put the pro higher than I did. Next time, the sling will go through the stal at its highest point.

A little sketchy at times looking for a place to place pro...but fun climb nonetheless.

Take big gear or place some wherever you can. The large crack is not conducive to taking gear and the inside surface is lumpy soft limestone... The crack felt more like a 14 to me.

Great fun first section - put yourself into 3D mode!

Fun beginning and end with a staircase in between the two.

Placed gear in 2nd half while on top rope - interesting experience - gives you a good idea of either how quickly you need to place gear or how much endurance you need! Lol.

3rd time’s a charm! Finally clean with pe-placed gear. Looking forward to the full trad experience soon (yes, there are carrots, but they might as well be trad placements when your bolt plates are a hair’s width too small).

Everything flowed great until the roof. Salt spray everywhere and I just couldn’t keep the hold long enough no matter what I did...

Gotta love starting p2 and looking over that edge! Was quite a surprise the first time round.

1st lead attempt and almost!

Proper 17 with the last moves testing your nerves! +1 in high winds that push you off the arête!

Lots of exposure. Didn't feel as hard as a 17, especially compared to some 15s like Carousel.

Broke it up into 2 pitches at the triangular belay ledge - not the most comfortable ledge though.

Took small and micro wires and ended up using none!

Felt harder than 15. Could have been exposure or slightly off route?

Almost clean. Took a fall on 2nd crux and what a whipper! Even had time to think that it was going on for longer than usual, lol.

If you forget the starting moves, get ready for the pump!

Changed to taking the top of the initial flake with crimps and loved it. Thanks for the beta Greg!

Blind folded!

Blind folded!

Had to aid the initial evil off-width chimney (on left side of boulder). Climbed clean after that but with a couple of rests on the rope. Can't wait to try again.

Finally, a clean ascent of this classic. Now to lead it....