Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 25th May 2024 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
North Wall - Main | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Strangeness and Charm
3
22
35m
4
22
20m
| 55m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed via wailing cockatoos. Great day out!
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22 | ★★★ Wailing Cockatoo | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 22nd May 2024 - Blue Lake | ||||||
Elephant Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Trunkline | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 18th May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 16th May 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
24 M1 Hard | ★★★ Dance of Life | 35m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fell going for the last crimp before the juggy horizontal break 2m from the top. I waxed lyrical about how good Clean Sweep is but this could be even better? For the first 2/3rds it’s slightly easier and much better protected than its compatriot to the left, but whereas Clean Sweep eases off in the top 15m Dance of Life just keeps going. I’m not sure the crimp moves are necessarily that much harder than the rest of the climb, but compared to CS it’s just so sustained for a full 40 odd metres…
Didn’t take enough long slings so rope drag was pretty awful in the top 10m or so - lesson learned there. Best bit about dropping an onsight like this right at the top is having the excuse to go do it again. |
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Wed 15th May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
23 | ★★★ High Dive | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 13th May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North PB Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★ PB | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 9th May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 | ★★★ New Image | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 7th May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
20 ~21 | ★★ Wasp | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | ★★★ Chinese Algebra | 48m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Straw Dogs | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | ||||||
22 | ★★ Pebbles | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 2nd May 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Wraith | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
28 | ★★ The Great Escape | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
27 ~28 | ★★★ FinaI Departure | 27m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 5th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch | 30m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
22 | ★★ Glory Rodent | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
26 | ★★ Cecil B De Mille | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 6th Feb 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
24 M1 | ★★★ Clean Sweep | 40m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Second shot after pumping out 2 moves before reaching easier ground on my onsight go. An immaculate climb, in my Taipan top 3 with Rage/Serp. Bears comparison with Archimedes' Principle. I though the aid requirement might detract from the experience but not at all. It was outrageous pulling under the hanging arete before establishing on good holds and turning the corner. Then there's 20 metres of perfect face climbing, decent holds the whole way but no really nice stances to place gear so you're on your arms the entire time.
It's bold for sure, I ran it out probably 6m through the most strenuous section on both the onsight and redpoint attempts. I could've placed another piece, maybe 2, but you'd need pretty wild endurance to stick around and do so. Let out a guttural yell on sticking the not-quite-a-jug that marked the end of the crux section & was almost too pumped to pull the last couple of moves to the horizontal break and easier ground above. 10/10, mega classic, would be worth the faff to pre-place gear if the ground-up approach doesn't appeal. Psyched! |
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Wed 31st Jan 2024 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Father Oblivion | 52m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
26 ~27 | ★★★ Sirocco — 2 attempts | 52m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go. not sure it’s any harder than Father Oblivion… crux went down 3rd attempt with a high right foot and a pogo.
|
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Mon 29th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Skydiver Wall | ||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Dead Metaphor | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★ Easy Does It | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 29th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Comic Relief | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 29th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
22 Easy | ★★★ Los Endos | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 18th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | ||||||
23 Hard | ★★ On High | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 18th Jan 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
23 Hard | ★★★ Orestes | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tue 26th Dec 2023 - Lake Huntley | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Deeper Water | 310m | ||||
Top 6 pitches. Some kind of introduction to conglomerate slab climbing…
|
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Sun 24th Dec 2023 - Geryon & The Acropolis | ||||||
The Acropolis North Face | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Old Wave Heroes | 240m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
29 Hard | ★★★ Rage | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Hard sport climbing par excellence. They simply do not get better. 12 days work since the middle of August. Definitely a sandbag, I’d give it hard 29 to the break where it meets Serpentine, with a pumpy 27 to the top. Maybe close to 31?
|
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Thu 9th Nov 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
23 Easy | ★★★ Intransience | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Callitris Corner | ||||||
22 | ★ metal storm | |||||
23 | ★★★ Grope Session | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Goblin Mischief | 50m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
23 | ★★★ Jenny Craig Moonarie Summer Camp, Activity One; The Endless Pitch | 45m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
24 | ★★★ Sweeping Statement | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
20 | ★★ Sweeping Statement Pitch 1 | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
19 | ★★ Dwarfism | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 | Nemesis Variant Finish | 49m | ||||
22 | ★★★ Nemesis | 130m | ||||
22 | ★★★ Expiry Date | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Dry Land | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
19 | ★★★ Downwind of Angels | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 R | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Despatched | 40m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Ooh boy what a magical route. Sustained, exposed, exciting, and in one of the most spectacular areas of the mount. Stoked to get the onsight!
|
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20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Second go having fallen off some years ago. Two laps (RP + second)
|
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Firedance | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ Dreadnought Variant | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Feral Chicken | 20m, 1 | ||||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Central Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Simpleton | 85m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
21 R |
★★★ Auto Da Fe
1
2
Linked p2/3
3
| 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Judgement Day | 67m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 5th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Jackal | 25m | ||||
18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | ||||
Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | ||||
another day another victim. 2nd go.
|
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Death Row | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid | 75m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Excuse me Lex | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Telemachus | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★ Collision Course | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Lemmington | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Aardvark | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Ethereal | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | ★★ Running on Empty | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 3rd Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Skink | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
19 | ★★ Sideshow | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Alzheimer’s onsight
|
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Sweet Surrender | 60m | ||||
Pitch 1
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Wed 30th Mar 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 30th Sep 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ White Heat | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 14th May 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lunatic | 25m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 16th Mar 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Anaconda | 60m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 24th Feb 2019 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Venom | 60m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 8th Dec 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
28 27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
28 with the top pitch (which is a must do) is about right in my opinion
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Mon 17th Apr 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Eureka Area Eureka Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Diminishing Returns (Top Half) | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
25 | ★★★ Vege Maths | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 8th Apr 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
26 | ★★ Snake Flake | 25m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 12th Mar 2017 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 4th Jan 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crap old carrots with bomber gear right next to a few...?????
|
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Tue 3rd Jan 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress - with Michael Tanner | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go
|
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26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 22nd Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
20 20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 22nd Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 21st Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 21st Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 21st Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Sundance | 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 21st Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
11 | ★★ Trapeze | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 21st Dec 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Kaiser | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 24th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 23rd Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Resignation | 96m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 23rd Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
17 | ★ Maximus | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 23rd Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 23rd Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ★★ Very Good |