Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
6A+ ~6A | Chains | 5m | ||||
Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet Bahratal Schlachthof Schwarz & Weiss-Block | ||||||
6B 6A+ | ★ Steigung SD (R1) | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Sharp crimps and, like "Anfang", a rockover to the top.
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6A 5C | ★ Anfang SD (Anfang) | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Nice rockover move to the top.
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6C | ★★ SW Klassik | 5m | ||||
Nice boulder, but I couldn't figure out a way to get into the vertical sloper rails before the massive hole in the roof.
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Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet Bahratal Schlachthof Steinbrecher-Block | ||||||
6A+ | ★ Hau Ruck | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Undercling flake with slopers a meter higher as support into a balance slab.
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5B 5A | Martin | 4m | Average | |||
Hard for small people, the last move is quite reachy.
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Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet Bahratal Schlachthof Enigma-Block | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Ack-Mac | 3m | ||||
Worked out a solution that keeps to the right of the arête, but couldn't finish it anymore.
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5B | ★ Kante | 2m | Average | |||
Powerful crimp move at the start if you don't use the big hole as a starting hold.
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6A | ★ Fly (Sprung) | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Easy to the big hole, which is however worse than it looks as an undercling. For some reason I did the dyno left hand first.
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Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet Bahratal Schlachthof Schlachthof-Eingang | ||||||
7A | ★★ Novinka | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Tried a high variant first, but couldn't link the moves, so I resorted to traversing the low slopers to the arête.
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Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet Bahratal Schlachthof Koi | ||||||
7A | ★★ Koi | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Basically three hard moves and a dyno. Didn't use the bad crimp below the jugs on the edge but only the tiny sidepull crimp.
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Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet Bahratal Schlachthof Schlachthof-Block | ||||||
5C | ★ Abwärmer SD | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Nice line along a diagonal crack. A bit high, but it's easy up top and you can downclimb.
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6A | ★ Hole punch SD (R11 SD) | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Nice footwork, crux is to get over the round sloper and to grab the top hold with two hands.
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Fri 19th Apr 2019 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Erzgebirgsgrenzgebiet Bahratal Schlachthof VdB-Block | ||||||
6B+ | ★★ Hiwi | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Nice little arête, the first one or two moves are the hardest.
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Sat 9th Feb 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Zwergenschloss Reise nach Mittelerden | ||||||
6B | Linker Boulderquergang | 12m | Average | |||
The middle part is almost too easy, crux is towards the end, a few moves on small crimps.
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Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Strand | ||||||
5B 6A+ | Linker | 4m | ||||
Starting from the biggest hole and using all the available jugs, it's way easier than 6A+.
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6B+ 6A+ | Rechter | 4m | ||||
Started with right hand on the big sidepull. I think it's quite a lot harder than 6A+, especially the move from the two-finger fingerlock pocket to the jug.
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9 | 6m | |||||
Did all the moves up to the end of the diagonal flake, where the dry part ended. Probably around 6B to 6B+ in total, maybe harder since I couldn't do the move from the mono in the upper part at all last time I tried …
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Thu 20th Sep 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Stadelhofener Dunkelkammer | ||||||
6B+ 6A | ★ Birth and Rebirth - with Bovist | 4m | ★ Good | |||
#sitstart I guess it's at least 6B+, maybe even 6C. Crux is pulling up on a small pocket (I could get my pinky and ring finger in, if you can't do that, it's a mono), blocking off and reaching for another mediocre crimp.
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5C+ 5A | ★★ Fuck - with Bovist | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
#sitstart Cool boulder on big holds, jamming your feet into the big holes helps a lot.
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6B | ★ Muskellos - with Bovist | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Tried this at the very end but slipped after the dyno.
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7A+ | ★★ Muskelprotz - with Bovist | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Long traverse, pumpy as hell. Probably need to get back more than a few times to have a chance.
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5A | ★ Music and Magic - with Bovist | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Good #warmup boulder on the far left of the wall.
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6B 6A | ★ Hendry Thredgill - with Bovist | 4m | ★ Good | |||
#sitstart Probably around 6B, a bit easier than the one to the right. Reachy crux move into a good undercling.
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Sun 19th Aug 2018 - Stanage | ||||||
Apparent North Apparent North Bouldering | ||||||
V1 | ★ Upper Cube Traverse | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Diagonally upwards on relatively good slopers.
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V5 | ★ The Cornflake - with Bovist, Daniel, Teresa | 3m | ★ Good | |||
One move wonder. Popped off the "cornflake" hold a couple of times (painfully) until I found the best body position and flow of movement to slap up to the edge.
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V2 | ★★ Lower Cube Traverse - with Bovist, Daniel, Teresa | 7m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice little traverse along a horizontal crack line. Small footholds and quite sustained.
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V1 | Cube Left | 3m | Average | |||
Uninspired line, but decent sloper work.
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Fri 17th Aug 2018 - Staffordshire | ||||||
Newstones Sly Buttress | ||||||
6C | ★★ Sly Stallone - with Daniel | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Funky dyno from good crimps. Stuck it on third try. Desperate top out mantle. ;-)
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Fri 17th Aug 2018 - Staffordshire | ||||||
Newstones Hazel Barn Buttress | ||||||
5+ | ★ Nutmeg Groove | 4m | ★ Good | |||
6A+ | Hazel Traverse - with Daniel | 7m | ||||
Great traverse, especially the finish up "Hammy", which is actually the hardest part.
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6B | ★★ Hazel Groove - with Daniel | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very appealing line. After fiddling a bit with the start, I flashed the rest. Nice moves on diagonal slanted crimps.
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Fri 17th Aug 2018 - Staffordshire | ||||||
Newstones Charlie's Overhang | ||||||
6A | ★★ Little Traverse - with Daniel | 7m | ★ Good | |||
Went a bit too low in the last section, which makes it much harder. Good traverse with flat holds in the middle.
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Fri 17th Aug 2018 - Staffordshire | ||||||
Newstones Uppermost Outcrop | ||||||
6A+ 6B+ | ★ Uppermost Traverse | 6m | ★ Good | |||
Hard passage where you drop down to the holds of "The Grinding Sloper" etc., but finished up "Left Arête" instead of "Square Cut Face", which probably makes it easier, but I can't really judge.
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6A | ★ The Grinding Sloper | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Pull up on slopers to gain another good sloper and mantle to an easy finish.
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6A+ | ★ Varicose | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting movement problem.
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2+ | ★ Easy Slab Right-hand | 4m | ||||
Stepped up the wall with hands on my back
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3 | ★★ Easy Slab | 4m | ||||
2+ | ★ Easy Crack | 4m | ||||
6A+ | ★ Wall and Mono | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Good, reachy move, wiggle up a bit on the mono and then reach for the break.
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5+ | ★ Left Arete | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Nice #warmup, not too easy with long moves.
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Tue 15th May 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Powereck | ||||||
7A | ★ Yogi | 3m | ★ Good | |||
I probably need to improve my yoga skills before I can send it. I can get my foot up to the edge of the roof and pull myself up, but I'm not able to reach the pocket high up statically afterwards.
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7A+ | ★ Kraftwerk | 3m | ★ Good | |||
I could do all the moves, but my solution involves a long dyno to a sloper/sidepull, which I couldn't stick more than once so far. Should work out if I'm fresh.
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Thu 26th Apr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Powereck | ||||||
6C+ 7A | ★ Kleine Kakkerlake | 4m | ★ Good | |||
The opposite of yesterday's jug traverse. I took the right jug as a starting hold only. Then move left to a good sidepull, left hand up to a sloper pinch and extend to a bad crimp. Right foot on starting hold, right hand on bad crimp to the right, pull hard and reach for the sloper. Once the left foot is up and you can grab the good crimp, it's over (final hold is a jug).
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Wed 25th Apr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Terrarium | ||||||
6B+ | ★ Oettinger Gedenkweg | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Slightly more powerful, this variant follows the holds further up in the overhang through the short middle section before coming down to jugs again. The low traverse might actually be harder for tall people.
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6B 6C | ★ Zeitweiser Ausnahmezustand | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Nice traverse with a hard section right at the beginning and then sustained on good holds to easy terrain. Kneebar before the final section
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Sat 16th Dec 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Amerikanische Botschaft | ||||||
6C+ 7A+ | ★ Golden Gate | 4m | ★ Good | |||
After working out the moves, I could climb it third try. Didn't feel like 7A+, looked like some holds broke.
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Fri 15th Sep 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Strand | ||||||
5C | 2 | 3m | Average | |||
Typical Frankenjura boulder. Small, uncomfortable pockets in an overhang.
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5C | 3 | 3m | Average | |||
The same as for boulder number 2 applies.
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6A | ★ 10 | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Couldn't figure out how to do the last move without jumping. Tried the jump a few times but couldn't hold on … maybe I overlooked something? Should be 6A after all. Nice sequence to get into the finger pocket.
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Sun 10th Sep 2017 - San Vito lo Capo | ||||||
Scogliera di Salinella Far South Garden Garden | ||||||
6B | ★★ Il piccolo mondo - with Bovist | 10m | ★ Good | |||
So the longest route here is a boulder. A few nice passages.
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Fri 18th Aug 2017 - Eichsfeld | ||||||
Thalwenden & Uder Wiesental Fregatte | ||||||
6A | Bughub | 2m | ||||
Fri 18th Aug 2017 - Eichsfeld | ||||||
Thalwenden & Uder Wiesental U-Boot | ||||||
6A | ★ Cono | 3m | ★ Good | |||
6B | ★ Rausch der Tiefe | 3m | ★ Good | |||
6A | ★★ Tauchgang | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 18th Aug 2017 - Eichsfeld | ||||||
Thalwenden & Uder Wiesental Fury-Block | ||||||
6A+ | ★ Expendor | 4m | ★ Good | |||
5C | ★★ Raufjemacht | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The easiest one up this great block, but a nice line!
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6A | ★ Shark Attack | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 28th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Petrohrad Vyhlídková skála Delfín | ||||||
6B | ★★ Kubínek | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great line along a fissure along the edge of the dolphin. Repeated it three times.
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5A | Levá ploutev | 2m | Average | |||
Tough one for 5A. Tests your upper arm strength.
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5A | ★ Přes díru | 1m | ★ Good | |||
Just the finish of "Kubínek".
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7A | Pinožení | 2m | ||||
Tried to get from the ground a few times, but tried in vain.
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Sun 28th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Petrohrad Vyhlídková skála Ementál | ||||||
5B | ★ Převis zleva | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Quite mossy at the top, but the jugs are good enough.
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5C | Převis přímo | 3m | ||||
My fingers were too used up for this already … very rough granite here.
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6A | Těžká stěnka | 5m | Average | |||
Hard start, easy finish. There's another arrow between this and "Hrana", seems almost impossible, but who am I to judge.
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5B | ★ Hrana | 5m | ★ Good | |||
One of the easier and more accessible boulders here. A bit high, but good holds up there.
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Sun 28th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Petrohrad Vyhlídková skála Matterhorn | ||||||
4+ | Plotna | 2m | Average | |||
Tried the direct variant, but deemed it impossible and switched to using the arête. Easy ground then.
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Sun 28th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Petrohrad Vyhlídková skála Nočník | ||||||
7B+ | Flaying Boy | 3m | ||||
The dyno is barely manageable from a standing position. Can't imagine how this can be done hanging on a bad jug and with almost no footholds.
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4+ | Doba kamenná | 1m | Average | |||
6C | Žiletka | 2m | ||||
Couldn't figure out the second move already …
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5B | ★★ Výprodej koberců | 2m | ★ Good | |||
A finger pocket? Here? Great!
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6B+ | Steel tools | 2m | ||||
Got the upper crimp with the right hand, but couldn't move a bit from there.
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Sun 28th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Petrohrad Vyhlídková skála Sekáček | ||||||
6B | ★ Snopková tunelářka | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Cool problem going up a chockstone via heel hooks.
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Fri 26th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Petrohrad Potoční kameny Skalní město Petronel | ||||||
5A | ★ Petrova hra | 2m | ★ Good | |||
3 | Spára | 2m | Average | |||
6C | ★ Sekyrka | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Felt a bit too easy for the grade, especially comparing with other boulders in the area, but nice overhanging arête.
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Fri 26th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Petrohrad Potoční kameny Skalní město Central park | ||||||
3 | Zelená hrana | 2m | Average | |||
5B | ★ Zelená stěna | 2m | ★ Good | |||
6B | ★ La parada | 2m | ★ Good | |||
6A | ★★ Central park | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
4 | Centrální stěnka | 2m | ★ Good | |||
3 | Pravá stěnka | 2m | Average | |||
Fri 26th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Petrohrad Potoční kameny Skalní město Skalní město: pravá část | ||||||
7A | ★ Longjohn | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Tried it a dozen times, but fell off shortly before the (presumably) good holds before the top. Then it became too sunny and the fingers of my left hand were aching …
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Thu 25th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Kosobody Eldorádo | ||||||
4 | 56 | 2m | Average | |||
4 | ★ 57 | 4m | ★ Good | |||
4+ | 58 | 4m | ★ Good | |||
5A | ★ 59 | 4m | ★ Good | |||
5B | ★ 60 | 3m | ★ Good | |||
4+ | 61 | 2m | Average | |||
6A+ | 62 | 3m | Average | |||
4+ | 63 | 2m | ★ Good | |||
3 | ★ 64 | 4m | ★ Good | |||
4+ | Levá hrana | 4m | Average | |||
5A | ★ Pravá hrana | 4m | ★ Good | |||
5A | 55 | 2m | Average | |||
Strange boulder with a funny loose flake wedged in a crack.
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Thu 25th May 2017 - Petrohrad a okolí | ||||||
Kosobody Generál Laudón | ||||||
4 | Faldiky | 3m | Average | |||
6A+ | ★ Kanón | 4m | ★ Good | |||
6B | ★ Generál Laudón | 4m | ★ Good | |||
6A | ★ Traverz | 7m | ★ Good | |||
5C | ★ Středem | 3m | ★ Good |