Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5b |
★ 7 (7 P1)
- with
Bovist
1
5b
8m
| 8m | Promeghin | ★ Good | Sat 7th Apr 2018 | |||
The only really dry pitch at the crag, sadly. But this one was actually nice, although short. Couldn't do the wet second pitch.
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5b |
Controfobia (Controfobia P1)
- with
Bovist
1
5b
| 43m | Finale Ligure | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th Mar 2017 | |||
Funny pockets in the first part, then a very good layback flake up into a dihedral with good underclings. Really cool. Couldn't find the second pitch, might be unprotected?
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6- 6+ | ★ Ostkante - with Daniel | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2020 | |||
Interesting, but short climb along the east arête. Nice layback moves and a funny crack finish. Felt much easier than 6+.
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6- 6+ | ★ Streitberger Weg - with Bovist | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 28th Jul 2018 | |||
5- in the Schwertner guide book; I'd go for a compromise and say it's about 6-. The hardest part is the start, where you need to pull on a sidepull crimp to gain a mediocre block in the crack; after that section it's really easy.
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5b |
★ Ernia (Ernia P1)
- with
Teresa
1
5b
| 100m | Regina del Lago | Mon 28th Jul 2014 | ||||
5b 5c | ★★ Black Beauty - with Bovist | 22m, 8 | Krk | ★ Good | Thu 16th Sep 2021 | |||
Visually pleasing along the black streak with some nice driphole pockets.
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6- 6 | ★ Stabeler Gedenkweg - with Fabi | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 24th Apr 2019 | |||
Good line, from the vertical crack with huge (but polished) holds into the dihedral and over the small overhang to the top.
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6- 6 | ★★ Tausendpfundweg - with Daniel | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | |||
Easy chimney with bad protection in the beginning, then a bit creepy traverse followed by a hand crack. Challenging climbing.
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6- 6 | ★ Sortie Blanche - with KP | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Nov 2019 | |||
Nice technical slab passage in the end, good line. Started via "Linksdiagonale", which itself contains an interesting chimney/dihedral section.
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6- 6 | ★ Flying Duck - with Lydia | 10m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 28th Aug 2015 | |||
6- 6 | ★ Besserwisser - with Teresa, Matthias Felix | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 28th Sep 2014 | ||||
6- 6 | ★ Dampfbügeleisen - with Teresa | 16m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Apr 2018 | |||
A few powerful moves, alternative start to "Bügeleisen", not a bad one.
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6- 6 | ★★ Südverschneidung | 28m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Mar 2021 | |||
Open book dihedral that could go on forever. The slab on top is also nice, thanks for cleaning it up.
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6- 6 | ★ Talseite - with Bovist | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 3rd Mar 2023 | |||
Great climb along cracks and flakes, the best line here for sure.
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6- 6 | ★ Perseidendusche - with Johannes Seitz | 11m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 18th Mar 2022 | ||||
Not the worst climbing, but quite brittle. Needs to get a few ascents before I can give it a rating.
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5b | ★★ Via Trento - with Bovist | 180m, 7 | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sat 8th Oct 2022 | |||
Enjoying the afternoon October sun in a beautiful setting. The bolts are spaced but well-placed, no additional protection necessary. Pitch three is probably the best: a long, grey slab with lots of interesting little passages. The rest is also enjoyable in good rock, not too polished. You're always tagging along to the left of the deep groove of 46° parallelo. Comfortable belays, short walk down.
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5b | ★★ Shredded Tweet - with Teresa | 22m, 7 | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Sep 2016 | |||
Unclear line halfway up, but very nice warmup.
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5b | ★ Rat Route - with Teresa | 20m | Malta | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Sep 2016 | |||
Very nice, slabby start, crux in the end over the bulge. Might even be 5c.
|
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5b | ★ Bucio de culo - with Bovist | 15m | Nuorese | ★ Good | Sat 28th Sep 2019 | |||
Nice slab with a slick crux at the second bolt. Runout to the third bolt, there might be one missing, but manageable. Cool top section on tufas.
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5b | ★★ Dopo il Pesce - with Bovist | 20m | Nuorese | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | |||
Very homogenous, fluid slab climbing.
|
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5b | ★★ Sono forse io? - with Bovist | 30m, 10 | Nuorese | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd Oct 2019 | |||
Great warmup to get into the slab climbing. Quite homogenous with one slightly slick passage at the end.
|
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5b | ★★ Tapas nocturnes - with Simon | 15m | Vosges du Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th May 2016 | |||
5b | ★ Sauch - with Bovist | 14m | Al Prà | ★ Good | Fri 17th Mar 2017 | |||
Very nice warmup to get into the style. Tricky passage in the end.
|
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5b | ★★ Fausto e il Monte Bianco - with Bovist | 15m | Galbiate | Sat 18th Jun 2022 | ||||
6- | V.M.-Weg - with Teresa | 8m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 15th Oct 2017 | |||
Looked like a nice line, so I did this one waiting for "Südriss". Turned out to be a bit chossy in the beginning, with a hard part at the last bolt if you go very directly. A bit easier to the left.
|
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6- | Pfeilerkante - with Harald | 16m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 28th Dec 2022 | |||
Good line, the middle part requires some nuts or cams, otherwise you'll have to trust the peg below the overhang. Nice laybacking crux, then easy to the top.
|
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6- | ★★ Fiechtl Gedenkweg - with Bovist | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | |||
Cool line with an interesting traverse. I set off into the latter a bit too high, which made it more difficult, but still manageable. From there it's technical wall climbing on crimps to the anchor.
|
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6- | ★★ Alte Rotwand - with Patrick | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2023 | |||
The easiest line through the left part of the wall, and quite a good one at that. Nice little traverse on the narrow ledge in the middle. Only climbed up to the belay ring below the roof, the original second pitch traverses left to the little cave and then up the crack. There are a few other options here, it seems like the right-hand finishes got more popular later on.
|
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6- | ★★ Rotwandvariante - with Nadja | 27m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Feb 2020 | |||
Great natural line that gets you in the flow. Only three bolts on about 27 meters, but there are lots of possibilities to add cams and nuts. The last 5 meters to the anchor are unprotected (one or two slings might be possible) but easy. Nice position on the big ledge!
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6- | ★ Edelweißsteig - with Harald | 22m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | |||
Good line along the diagonal crack that levels out and ends in a ledge, finishing via juggy pockets to the top.
|
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6- | ★ Direct - with Bovist | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 9th Jun 2018 | |||
Very similar to "Na Bravo", just a tad easier in both the start and the final section.
|
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6- | ★ R1b - with Bovist | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | |||
Funny route, looks harder than it is. Bridge up your way between the little tower and the wall and then flip over to the arête where the good holds start. Jive-ass anchor at the top …
|
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6- | ★ Nordriss - with Revo | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 10th Aug 2022 | |||
I actually wanted to do the easiest route up, which supposedly is "Südwand". I highly doubt that this route has anything to do with UIAA 3, more like 3 A0 with human pyramid, and a good deal of boldness. This crack, however, is a nice, straightforward climb with some jams to rest and relatively good holds overall. Quite short, of course. #jahreserste2022
|
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6- | ★★ Alter Weg - with Alex | 28m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Feb 2022 | |||
The original start is a bit bold, especially considering the rock quality, but the climbing is easy. Climbed the original finish traversing to the arête on the right. The "alternative finish" is probably the crack on the left.
|
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6- |
★ Linker Weg
- with
Jenny
2
5
10
| 38m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 13th Aug 2023 | |||
6- | ★ Genießerspalte - with Harald | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 24th May 2020 | |||
A real offwidth! In Saxony, you would probably say "geht auf rechts", so stick your right arm and leg in and start wiggling! A yellow cam at the start of the crack and a blue one below the bolt are nice to have, though. After the bolt, you can now get fully into the crack again, because I removed the (rest of the) tree that was stuck in the route on abseil. Has no anchor, and soon the tree stumps on top will be too bad as well …
|
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6- | ★★ LK-Riss - with Ellen | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 19th Jun 2018 | |||
Beautiful, natural line. It's unfortunate that the direct start is so much harder, but the tiny ramp leading up diagonally actually adds some spice. Could go on like this forever. It was almost dry save for a short section in the middle. Lots of possibilities to improve the protection (which isn't too bad to begin with).
|
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6- | ★ Danzer Gedenkweg - with Bovist | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 30th Aug 2017 | |||
Cool dihedral climbing in the beginning. The traverse on the big flake leads quite far to the right, so to clean the route I climbed down around the corner again …
|
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6- | ★★ Nix für Emma - with Bovist | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th May 2020 | |||
Nice line, good rock, for me at least it was a great #warmup.
|
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6- | Beule - with Bovist | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 9th Apr 2017 | |||
Only one bolt, at around 6 meters. Not especially difficult, but you should know what you're doing.
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6- | ★★ Alter Weg, Direkter Einsteig - with Bovist | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Jun 2020 | |||
Great crack line with lots of placements for nuts between the bolts, but it’s also okay without.
|
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6- | Ostkante - with Daniel | 23m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 24th Feb 2018 | |||
Originally wanted to climb "Finderlohn" but the bolts in the upper part were occupied so I decided to climb the finish of "Ostkante".
|
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6- | ★ Nordwestschleife - with Harald | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 26th Mar 2024 | |||
6- | ★★★ Nordwestkante - with Simon | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Mar 2022 | |||
Great climbing on juggy structures. You should tie a sling around the rusty peg after the second bolt instead of clipping it directly! The narrow pillar from there is awesome to climb with lots of sidepulls. Then a good jam on the left to clip the bolt, which unfortunately has to be used as an anchor since there's no dedicated bolt, but it's also not recommended to climb up onto the ledge (dirty and chossy).
|
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6- | ★ Unentwegtenverschneidung - with Bovist | 21m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 9th Jul 2018 | |||
Interesting dihedral climbing; the rock seemed to sweat a little even though the rest of the crag was perfectly dry.
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6- | ★ Nordhangel - with Daniel | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 21st Apr 2019 | |||
Nice traverse along the diagonal break.
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6- | ★★ Fuchsensteiner - with Nadja | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th May 2018 | |||
Great dihedral in good rock. The difficulties are over at the second (or third, if you count the quite useless new one in the beginning) bolt.
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6- | ★ Kauperriss - with Raf | 30m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2017 | |||
Chose to get to the ledge via "Westwandvariante", which was a bit wet, but possible to climb. Nice crack system with a bit of layback climbing; feels almost short after climbing up to the ledge.
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6- | Gräfenberger Weg - with Simon | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Tue 25th Aug 2015 | |||
6- | ★ Prinzessin - with Teresa | 11m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Apr 2015 | ||||
6- | ★ Schinderriss - with Bovist | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 16th Jun 2018 | |||
The hardest part is getting beyond the hand crack at the start to just above the first bolt. I cleaned the middle section from lots of leaves, dirt and vegetation, so now the top part is actually quite nice to climb. Good nut in a pocket after the ledge on the left before the second bolt; funny finish bridging up and then squeezing through the narrow opening.
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6- | ★ Nürnberger Weg - with Ellen | 13m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 26th May 2019 | |||
High first bolt with a bit of choss before, but then good climbing with an interesting finish on the dull arête.
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6- | ★★★ Neuer Gemsenweg - with Bovist | 26m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||
The more relaxed of the two "Gemsenwege", but still with a lot of alpine feel (that is, falling not recommended :-D). Great rock structure in the lower half. The dihedral at the top felt so much easier than when I climbed it as the top section of "Direkter Gemsenweg" in much more adverse conditions a few months ago. Careful when lowering, I barely touched the wall and ripped off a huge flake in unclimbed terrain.
|
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6- |
★★ Direkter Gemsenweg
- with
Alex
1
6-
20m
lead by
Alex
2
6-
20m
| 40m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Dec 2021 | |||
The finest dolomite choss around. Yeah, there's a lot of loose stuff, but oh, those jugs! Nice, slightly technical traverse after the easy start, then a juggy (but brittle) section with phenomenal rock structures, lots of quartz crystals and nice exposure to the belay in the little cave. The jug glory continues in the second pitch, with improving rock quality. Tricky little dihedral at the end.
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6- | ★★ Novemberweg - with Bovist | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||
A great line, a bit around the corner but not to be missed! Follows the big flake/crack/dihedral structure, which is a treat to climb, then continues straight up over the overhang on brilliant, hefty jugs. #warmup
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6- | ★ Hiltpoltsteiner Weg - with filo | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 19th Apr 2015 | ||||
6- | ★★ Helmut Czernecki Gedenkweg - with Lydia | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 18th Jul 2016 | |||
Careful choice of holds is necessary below the anchor to avoid touching dormouse droppings. ;-) Otherwise nice route on good jugs.
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6- | ★ Broken Heart - with Simon | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 31st Jul 2015 | |||
6- | ★★ Südwestkante - with Teresa | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Mar 2016 | |||
6- | ★★ Katzl - with Daniel | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Jun 2013 | |||
6- | ★★ Wandl - with Daniel | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 22nd Jun 2013 | ||||
6- | ★ Linker Ostpfeiler - with Daniel | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 7th Sep 2013 | ||||
6- | ★ Nullnummer - with Daniel | 8m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 30th Mar 2017 | |||
Only a single bolt, but nice placements.
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6- | ★ Don't Worry, Be Happy - with Teresa | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 7th Mar 2015 | |||
6- | ★★ Muffengang - with David X | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 30th Mar 2017 | |||
Nice warmup, smooth climbing.
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6- | ★★ Felsentorweg - with Merlin | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Jun 2023 | |||
Great route in near perfect rock. The original finish is rarely climbed, it seems, but worthwhile.
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6- | ★★ Karies - with Teresa | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 7th Mar 2015 | |||
6- | ★ Die Hundertjährige - with Daniel | 21m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 19th Aug 2016 | |||
Nice opportunity to put some nuts and friends to use. Shares the cool overhang finish with its left neighbour.
|
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6- | ★ Bieringerverschneidung - with Bovist | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Nov 2020 | |||
Really tricky dihedral climbing, rewarding but challenging. Nuts and cams helpful, the bolts are quite spaced. Nowadays, the second pitch is unclimbable, it's just a pile of dirt and vegetation (and the interesting part is probably over, anyway).
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6- | Nordwand - with Alex | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | |||
Not a bad route, but the actual climbing is just one move in the beginning and a few (albeit good) moves in the dihedral. More or less (mossy) walking terrain in between.
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6- | ★ Unentwegtenriss - with Daniel | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 7th Jul 2018 | |||
Nice crack with good protection. Difficult technical passage after the first bolt, the rest is easier. The last few meters are a bit of a drudgery, but not in a bad way.
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6- | ★★ Nordwand - with Teresa | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jul 2018 | |||
Another great line in good quality rock. Finds the easiest way through the north face by swaying left and right after the initial crack (a large cam fits nicely below the first bolt).
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6- | ★★ Kiefernverschneidung - with Teresa, Gurki | 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 15th Jun 2013 | ||||
6- | ★ Sporthängen - with Teresa | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 11th Apr 2015 | ||||
6- | ★★ Klettern Verboten | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | |||
Nice little bouldery start on jugs to a black slab. The finish is on small, uncomfortable holds and a bit hard to read.
|
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6- | ★★ Schleierkante - with Bovist | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Oct 2021 | |||
Brilliant route, much more homogeneous than the direct start which I had climbed a few years back. The huge flake at the end was affixed to the wall with huge iron bars and concrete, which is a bit ugly but at least conserved the beautiful climb.
|
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6- | ★ Graue Platte - with Teresa | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 12th Jul 2014 | |||
6- | ★★ Alte Talseite - with Harald | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 12th Jan 2024 | |||
Great route that follows a series of cracks. Not easy in these conditions (around 0 degrees and slightly foggy). #jahreserste2024
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6- | ★★ Ansbacher Verschneidung - with Daniel | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Oct 2015 | |||
6- | ★★ Ostriss - with David X | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Jul 2022 | |||
Great line, good rock, solid #warmup. Not too easy to the first bolt, and quite airy to the top (you can thread a small nut through a key-hole pocket above the last bolt if you're feeling insecure).
|
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6- | ★ Südwestkante - with David | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | |||
Great holds, good climbing, airy exit.
|
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6- | ★★ Sonnwendpfeiler - with Bovist | 21m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Mar 2022 | |||
Actually "Sonnwendpfeiler Talseite", but nobody climbs the original anymore, which traverses around the corner to "Alter Weg" (which should probably be around 6) before the nice hand/fist crack dihedral. Nice, long, airy, a nut helps before the book case. Crux is either the crack (for crack novices) or the pocketed wall above the book, which is hard to read, but nice (and offers a hard move just before the anchor).
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6- | ★ R12 - with Harald | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 22nd Apr 2021 | |||
Cool flake in the lower part, then some nifty layback moves into the dihedral.
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6- | ★ Eibenriss - with Alex | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 5th Oct 2020 | |||
A bit polished, relatively well-protected in the lower part, but take some gear for the unprotected finish of "Altes Geiereck". The actual crack is quite tricky but doesn't really require any crack climbing techniques.
|
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6- | ★ Malmriss - with Bovist | 26m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 20th Jun 2018 | |||
Good line, good climbing and good protection (nuts possible before the first bolt). Not as polished as I had expected from the description in the guide book.
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6- | ★ Gufel - with Bovist | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 7th Nov 2019 | |||
Very interesting route with a long traverse to the big cave and then out over the roof of the cave. Looks much harder from the ground. Use some slings to extend the bolts in the traverse, otherwise you'll have to do it in 2 pitches.
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6- | ★★ Margarethenwand - with Jenny | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Feb 2018 | |||
Great climb with really cool rock structures and two cruxes, one in the beginning when leaving the dihedral to gain the slab, then in the upper part around a little bulge.
|
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6- | ★ Bamberger Pfeiler - with asn | 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 6th Sep 2022 | |||
Good wall climbing, didn't feel too easy for the grade. A cam or nut after the first bolt is sensible, crux is after the second bolt.
|
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6- | ★ Sonnenkönig - with Teresa | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 11th Oct 2014 | |||
6- | ★★ Talseite - with Teresa | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jul 2015 | |||
6- | Mittagsverschneidung - with David X | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 6th Nov 2021 | |||
Nice dihedral. The way to the first bolt is easy, but can also be protected nicely with bigger cams. Interesting crack/dihedral passage that transitions into a short chimney at the end.
|
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6- | ★★ Zinnober - with Lydia | 30m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Oct 2017 | |||
Almost as nice as its right neighbour. The crux is shortly after you leave the ledge, the rest is easier but on nice structures, especially in the top section.
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6- | ★★ Siebenschläfer - with Teresa | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Dec 2015 | |||
6- | ★ Direkte Südwand - with KP | 38m | Frankenjura Süd | ★ Good | Sun 18th Feb 2024 | |||
Branches off Südriss into a nasty slab. Not exactly a piece of cake, I don't even think the polish makes so much of a difference.
|
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6- | ★★ Crazy - with Teresa | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 5th Oct 2013 | ||||
6- | ★ Höhlenweg - with Martin | Frankenjura Süd | Thu 9th May 2013 | |||||
6- | ★★ Direkte Südwestwand - with Teresa | 20m | Frankenjura Süd | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd May 2015 | |||
6- | ★ R15 - with Teresa | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
6- | Das erste Mal - with Teresa, Matthias Felix | 8m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 28th Sep 2014 | ||||
6- | Lichterland - with David X | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 11th Jun 2016 |