Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Sedgies Buttress | ||||||
27 | ★★ Offhand Comment - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only had an onsight go. Felt like I would get it next attempt but I had bigger fish to try this trip.
|
||||||
Fri 19th Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Thrasher - with Hannah Rose | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another dream climb to return for. Did all the moves but there is a seriously epic boulder problem near the top. So stoked I could try it.
|
||||||
Tue 16th Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle | ||||||
30 | ★★★ Firetail — 2 attempts - with Hannah Rose | 35m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Day 3, did all 3 cruxes with 3 sits/falls.
|
||||||
23 | ★★★ Dildo Direct - with Hannah Rose | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
30 | ★★★ Firetail — 3 attempts - with Hannah Rose | 35m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
2 sessions so far. Have done all but the first crux. Might not have the route fittness to finish it off in the last 3 days of the trip. So glad to be on this dream route of mine though.
|
||||||
19 ~18 |
★★★ Adventures in Paradise
1
2
| 85m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle | ||||||
27 Easy | ★★★ Hook, Line and Sinker Direct - with Hannah Rose | 35m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Seriously had to work for the 2nd day flash on this masterpiece of rock. Trad climbing doesn't get better. Steep, perfect rock, long, and I had to power scream on the last move because I didn't have good beta. Bloody fun day out.
|
||||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Campsite Buttress & Pinnacle | ||||||
25 | ★★ Penguin Up a Tree - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than it looks. Challenging most of the way. Amazing rock.
|
||||||
27 Easy | ★★★ Hook, Line and Sinker Direct — 2 attempts - with Hannah Rose | 35m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Onsite go ended predictably at the crux. Has to be close to the best route of the grade in Aus. Insanely spoogy today but did the moves and sorted some sequences and gear. Don't quite have the crux dialed. Hopefully next session.
|
||||||
Wed 28th Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Frew's Flutes | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Breathing Space - with Fraser | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Whent out to give it a suss on top rope. First lap felt okay with a few sits and 2nd lap did it clean. It just goes and goes and goes and goes. Super fun day out. What could be better than toproping one of the best routes in the country and spending time up at the Ben with a friend!
|
||||||
Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Frew's Flutes | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Wizard — 2 attempts - with Hannah Rose | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A magic line. Not quite as hard as I was expecting, but the gear might be where some extra difficulty comes in. 2 laps, 4 sits on the 2nd lap. So long!
|
||||||
Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Trevallyn Reserve/Hoo Hoo Hut areas Pubic Flash | ||||||
25 ~26 | ★★ Obi Wan Kenobi — 3 attempts - with Hannah Rose, deano, anne | 17m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Absolutely on the whole way, the first bolt is really hard to clip and the 2nd seems pretty high and dangerous. Cool layback finger intense movements
|
||||||
Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta - with Hannah Rose, Edie Burns | 90m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Edie's first day at the ben and first multipitch. Climbed on only hexes.
|
||||||
Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
Fortescue Bay Crag | ||||||
18 | ★ Thank Christ For Bass Strait - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★ Kelpie - with Hannah Rose | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
The Totem Pole | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Deep Play - with Hannah Rose | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
25 |
★★★ The Free Route P2
- with
Hannah Rose
2
25
40m
| 40m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One fall. Unbelievable day out. Weather was sublime, my family came to watch, the route is so beautiful, and there were no hiccups. Felt like a breeze shame about the fall but it did not take away from the experience at all.
|
||||||
Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Digitalis - with Hannah Rose | 62m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Linked into a 60m pitch. Did the left finish which was great. Need to try some of the bolted routes at this crag
|
||||||
Wed 6th Dec 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 - with Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat
|
||||||
Wed 6th Dec 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10a ~5.10b | ★★ Screaming at the Moon - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Linked the 2 pitches. Was an excellent last route of the trip!
|
||||||
5.12b | Yellow Brick Road Rage - with Hannah Rose | 35m, 5 | ||||
Fell above the 2nd bolt and back cleaned back to the anchor.
|
||||||
5.11- | ★★ Zhoulei's Flake - with Hannah Rose | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 5th Dec 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.13d | ★★★ The Firewall - with Hannah Rose | 78m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Reason 644 to return to China. Unreal! Repeated the first two pitches to check out the amazing P3. About 5.12- to a good rest half way, then the angle kicks back even more and the jams get consistently thinner. It tests every size thoroughly from 2-.3 with at least 2m of each size. I did all the moves but would need to improve my technique in .75. The pump would be all time by the fingers section where the feet run out. Definitely a dream route!
|
||||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.13d |
★★★ The Honeycomb Dome
- with
Jia Yo
1
5.12+
25
lead by
Patrick Munnings
Trying to be as efficient as possible I sat at one cam at the start.
2
5.13d
20
lead by
Patrick Munnings
Another insane pitch of rock climbing. Aided about 2/3 of the pitch but was amazing to check it out. Reason no. 634 to return to China | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
5.8 |
★★ Sword Ladder
- with
Jia Yo
1
5.8
2
5.8
| 60m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 30th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10 | ★★ Highway to Hell - with Hannah Rose | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 27th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.12+ |
★★★ Another World
- with
Hannah Rose
1
5.12+
| 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Climbed with the first piece pre-placed from an earlier attempt falling at the crux. The best crack pitch of my life so far. Exposed, powerful and varied. Was an incredibly desperate send and nearly pumped out in multiple places. So good!
|
||||||
5.8 | ★★ Sword Ladder - with Hannah Rose | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Installed glue in anchors on all three pitches, repeated to access Honeycomb Dome
|
||||||
5.12c/d Hard | ★★★ Curse of the Rainshed — 5 attempts - with Hannah Rose | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Felt good to put this away at the end of a hard session on Another World. My absolute anti-style but super fun and very unique.
|
||||||
Mon 27th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Wind of the Valley - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.12+ |
★★★ Another World
- with
David, Pim
1
5.12+
20m
| 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The new best pitch of crack climbing I have done in my life, steep tight hands, amazing snaking shape of the crack, variety of moves and such an exposed position 😜
|
||||||
5.8 |
★★ Sword Ladder
- with
Hannah Rose
1
5.8
2
5.8
3
5.8
| 60m | ||||
Linked all three pitches to rig a fixed line and access Another World
|
||||||
Fri 24th Nov 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | ||||||
Bai Yan Si 白岩寺 | ||||||
5.11c |
★★★ Allegory of the Caves 洞穴寓言
- with
Hannah Rose, Håkon and Sarah
1
5.10a
28m
2
5.10c
30m
3
5.10d
33m
4
5.11c
30m
5
5.7
40m
6
5.7
40m
7
5.10b
25m
8
5.8
23m
9
5.11b
32m
10
5.10a
26m
11
5.8
31m
12
5.7
35m
13
5.9
35m
14
5.9
33m
15
5.8
35m
16
5.6
40m
17
5.5
25m
| 540m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A wonderful two days climbing to the summit of Bai Yan Si. The route is very approachable and route finding was fairly common sense. Stoked to spend the night in the cave at pitch 12 and play some cards and drink too much baiju. The altitude made me work pretty hard and climbing with a pack meant the hard free moves were not so approachable. Pulled on one draw at the crux of both hard pitches. Was a memorable adventure with wonderful company.
|
||||||
Thu 23rd Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.12 | ★★★ Ding Dong’s Crack - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sublime! Fought hard and beat the bloody ringlocks.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Pineapple Upside-down Cake - with Hannah Rose | 16m | ||||
5.11 | ★★ Goat Lord - with Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some exploratory digging through pickles and dirt waterfalls. FA and installed an anchor. Will be a worthwhile route now that it's clean. A full value long pitch added to an already very popular crag.
|
||||||
Sun 19th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.11c | IL Mignolo Col Prof - with Hannah Rose | 16m | Don't Bother | |||
Dirty and not so great rock. Moves were good. The anchor was super sketchy
|
||||||
5.12 | ★★★ Ding Dong’s Crack - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Turns out I can't really ringlock. Will try again.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★ Apple Crumble - with Hannah Rose | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 16th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
5.10d ~5.11a | Orange Crush - with Hannah Rose | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Moves were cool, but the rock was a bit ordinary.
|
||||||
5.10d | FangBanMian - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Wed 15th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13c/d PG - R Hard | ★★★ Air China — 2 attempts - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
OMG unexpected, but first lead attempt I climbed this better than ever and flowed to the top. So happy to come away with this tick from an amazing time in China. Huge thanks to Hannah for the belay / hiking efforts.
|
||||||
Tue 14th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 守护者 The Guardian | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ The Gift (Left Variation) - with Hannah Rose | 26m | ||||
Right variation full pitch, harder than it looks.
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Eagle eyed Super Hawk - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The most wild move I've done outside of a climbing gym. A wall run to a jug on an arete and then beautiful climbing to the top. Sick!!
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Brazen Hussie - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Also great. One long pitch.
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sahara - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super quality.
|
||||||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 守护者 The Guardian | ||||||
5.11d |
★★ The Sphinx
- with
Hannah Rose
1
5.11d
2
5.10d
| 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rad, tricky offwidthing just after turning a roof. Linked the two pitches for more goodness. Some awkward sizes.
|
||||||
5.11 ~5.11+ | ★★★ Akhum Rah - with Hannah Rose | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super quality, interesting and sustained long pitch of thin climbing
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Flight of The Locusts (half) — 2 attempts - with Hannah Rose | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
great technical straight in fingers
|
||||||
5.11- | ★★ Wing and a Prayer - with Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool roof sequence and some interesting movement of various styles the whole way.
|
||||||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
假日区 The Holidays 四季区 Four Seasons Area | ||||||
5.11+ |
★★ I'll Be Your Huckleberry
1
5.10d
20
2
5.11+
30
| 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Would be a classic if the rock quality was better. Quite flakey. A 50m pitch with all sorts of sizes and techniques. It definitely beat me with two sits in the offwidth. Climbed in one pitch.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★ International House of Pancakes | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent quality, bit short and definitely scary with a runout that gets close to groundfall potential.
|
||||||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 五彩岩 Painted Wall | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Not Too Far From the Border Corner - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent, however, full layback pitches are kind of not so exciting. If it was longer and pumpier it might have added some interest but pretty much the same move the whole way.
|
||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Symphonie de Liberte - with Hannah Rose | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing hard corner climbing. Did not free the bolted section due to not identifying a single hold or body position. After this the rock and climbing is absolutely tops.
|
||||||
Tue 7th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | ||||||
5.11+ | ★★ I Don’t Like Chickens - with Hannah Rose | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Through the Looking Glass - with Hannah Rose | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 7th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.11 | ★★★ Dungeons and Dragons - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ||||
Whipped from the overhanging offwidth trying to manage my rope.
|
||||||
5.10 | ★★ Dancing with Dragons - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome
|
||||||
5.13c/d PG - R Hard | ★★★ Air China — 2 attempts - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Broke the best hold off the route today making the easier start a grade or two harder. Worked out better beta for the start and the crux. Next session might be on lead.
|
||||||
Sun 5th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13c/d PG - R Hard | ★★★ Air China - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another working session. This time in the morning, placing gear and trailing a rope. One fall at the crux. Not warmed up.
|
||||||
5.11+ |
★★★ Back to the Primitive
- with
Hannah Rose
1
5.8
20m
2
5.11+
20m
3
5.10
18m
4
5.10+
30m
5
5.11-
32m
6
5.9
10m
7
5.10+
28m
8
5.9
25m
| 180m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Linked p2&3 and 6&7. An awesome outing but the descent down the Spearhead gully was a serious adventure.
|
||||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 - with Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat for toprope
|
||||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Over the Rainbow - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got inverted well and was making progress but could not get past a cam and then slipped out of a no hands rest upside down 🙃. The hand crack at the end is much harder than I expected as well
|
||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Dirt Devil - with Hannah Rose | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seriously fun with a solid 8m of butterfly stacks and knee locks
|
||||||
Thu 2nd Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13 ~5.12+ | ★★ The Unimaginable Corner - with Hannah Rose | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not for me but thought I'd check ot out.
|
||||||
Thu 2nd Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Welcome to Liming - with Hannah Rose | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Squeeze chimney fun!
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl - with Hannah Rose | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic and interesting jamming, so good.
|
||||||
Thu 2nd Nov 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12 R | ★ Cracker - with Hannah Rose | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Insanely hard and gear is terrible, needs a good clean.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Staircase of the Elves - with Hannah Rose | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome but short
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★★ The Funky Dan - with Hannah Rose | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell again at the crux. Felt really good up to there but never found good beta for one foot move. Then went to the top
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sandworm - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.13c/d PG - R Hard | ★★★ Air China — 2 attempts - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Worked out gear and it's pretty bomber but scary.
Next session I got two low points. One from the start of the crux and then straight after, another from the rest before the hard climbing. Getting so psyched
|
||||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ The Reckoning-half 终审判决第一段 | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wish the top crack was longer
|
||||||
5.10+ ~5.11- | ★★ Boy with a Coin | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing. Got to do some long sections of butterfly stacks!
|
||||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ The Funky Dan - with Hannah Rose | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had a very good onsight attempt. Came close but didn't think funky enough with my beta. Might try again when I recover from this attempt
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sandworm - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11 R ~5.11+ | ★★★ Saxion Edge - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Serious business. 4 Chech style ring bolts in 25m. Some big runout on insecure moves with a hint of moss and grime. Unfortunately the logbook at the summit was installed upside down by the last climber and filled with water. I brought the case and book back down to try and dry it out.
|
||||||
5.13c/d PG - R Hard | ★★★ Air China - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed in two overlapping sections. One through the crux and past the bolt, and then from the bolt to the top twice. Piecing it together. Will start to play with some gear next
|
||||||
Fri 27th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.13c/d PG - R Hard | ★★★ Air China - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Worked out all the beta but about 4 sections between hangs
|
||||||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
黑怕哈米 Heibahami | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Smiley Glad Hands with Hidden Agendas - with Hannah Rose | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.11+ |
★★★ The Firewall
- with
Hannah Rose
2
5.11+
33m
lead by
Patrick Munnings
Comfortably the single best pitch of crack climbing I've ever done. Slightly overhanging the whole way, with all sizes from fingers to fists. But the sections of marathon #2 and #3 were so epic! Hopefully I can come back and play on the top pitch too. | 53m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
5.10a |
★★★ Soul’s Awakening
- with
Hannah Rose
1
5.9
28m
Awesome! Such quality crack climbing and the bolts are well considered also.
2
5.10a
8m
8 bolts in 8m skipped 6 of them | 36m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10+ | ★★ The Forgotten Line - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit dirty and nerve racking pulling on some blocks. Really fun with some solid overhanging fist jamming
|
||||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ The Warm up - with Hannah Rose | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty hard for the grade I think
|
||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Japanese Cowboy - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Whipped while my head was pressed against the anchor. Could not find a clipping stance even after another 5 tries. Such a grovelly and unpleasant finish to a mega classic pitch of beautiful steep jamming
|
||||||
5.12c/d Hard | ★★★ Curse of the Rainshed - with Hannah Rose | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
No cigar today as well but got the beta sorted. One fall on the slippery no hands traverse
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Equator - with Hannah Rose | 63m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super climbing. Some scary moments on the arete feel like you could damage your rope if you fall. Varied and hard climbing the whole way
|
||||||
5.12c/d Hard | ★★★ Curse of the Rainshed - with Hannah Rose | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing! An absolute antistyle for me but incredibly fun movement.
|
||||||
Thu 19th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.12a/b | ★★ Morass and The Balance of Power Extension - with Hannah Rose | 35m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Could not be more different to the first half of the route, delicate, powerful and flexible climbing on mostly imaginary footholds.
|
||||||
5.10c | ★★ Morass - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Varied and interesting
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Clam Digger - with Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Unreal. Strange how doing the same move over and over again for 25m can be so much fun. An absolute thrashing for my right leg and some serious fatigue but stoked to have done it! Probably never again
|
||||||
5.13c/d PG - R Hard | ★★★ Air China - with Hannah Rose | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing hard arete climbing. Will be spicy but safe and I am psyched to give this a few sessions. did all the moves but had some rope help on two of them.
|
||||||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 原始北区 Primitive Area North | ||||||
5.11- | ★★ The Raven (full) - with Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some really bizarre moves. Actually quite weird the whole way. Harder than it looks but really cool
|
||||||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ The Reckoning-half 终审判决第一段 - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell after the crux rushing an off balance move. Easy steep perfect finger crack to the top from there
|
||||||
5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Absolutely classic. Beautiful line, cool position and perfect climbing
|
||||||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10+ Hard | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Unreal rock and line. Gets easier as you go. So good
|
||||||
Wed 18th Oct 2023 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 死亡天文台 Die Sternwarte | ||||||
5.10+ Hard | ★★ The Squall - with Hannah Rose | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Possibly my hardest fight for an onsight to date (which isn't filling me with confidence for the rest of our time here). The route was also dirty as it probably hasn't been climbed in many years and has seen some heavy rain. Slid back down the offwidth section multiple times before somehow making it through. then what should have been an easy hand and fist crack to the anchor was an absolute suffer fest where I almost hyperventilated and fainted. I couldn't remember what gear I had placed or how far it was below me. Wanted to give up and sit the whole time but somehow didn't. I could not climb again for the rest of the day. hopefully more of this to come!
|
||||||
5.10- ~5.10 | ★★★ Captain Spaceman Spiff - with Hannah Rose | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Was dirty, meaning I had to squeeze extra hard on the long sections of .75 and 1. Thumb got a serious workout, and I could have used another .75 because I had about a 6m runout above the half way ledge. Top section was really fun. Felt stiff for a large hand climber.
|
||||||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - 六盘水 Liupanshui | ||||||
双洞村 | ||||||
5.12a R | ★★★ 大疣蛛科 - with Hannah Rose | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I had such a great time with this route. Spent 2 rest days cleaning and working out the logistics for this ascent. A deep water solo above a small pool, continuing into a spicy long steep tufa maze and finally the huge tree anchor at the finish ledge. The route was begging to be climbed but demanded lots of effort be put into making it happen. Thanks so much to Hannah for suffering through the belay process, it was probably as scary as the climb itself. What a memorable experience to FA this route!
|
||||||
Tue 19th Sep 2023 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 中指峰 Middle Finger | ||||||
5.10d Hard |
★★★ Pluto
- with
Jackie
1
5.10d
45m
2
5.10d
45m
| 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Trad Climbing! In Yangshuo! This route has obviously not been climbed in many years, however is very good quality. Two consistently difficult, interesting, varied, intimidating and looong pitches. Absolutely worth doing, but I also think I do't want to do much more trad climbing here hahaha. The route would be better with some vegetation clearing and replacement of tat on the anchors.
|