Ascents by Trevor Kettlewell

Always good enough holds, crimps then jugs, but I need to come back with more muscle and less fat.

Pumped out by the time I got a sequence (needed it) for the start - even exploiting every advantage of the boulders (but skipping them ups the grade to something still very doable). Afterwards no great rests but good holds.

Pumpy start, but enough jugs to help you get up to somewhere you can stand. Fun.

Add another slightly committing move at end if you want to go level, not just clip anchors from below.

Fun move, a bit exposed, stepping on tiny lip to cross between two walls, then juggy enough to turn back onto the original face, friendly slabbing to final bolts.

I reckon this may have been a 12 on the indicated line a few years ago, but suspect a big footer has come off on the way to the first bolt - there's clearly a spot where something large has come off, and the area, particularly low, we found was liable to just have rock flaking off if you pulled on it.

I'm still claiming it using a metre or two start to the left of the bolt, then moving back right to follow the bolts - from tnen on friendly. 12 then just a little sandbagged - otherwise ludicrous sandbag.

Nice varied climbing (spoilers). I went crimpy left at the 2nd bolt to avoid a water feature, but more juggy pumpy right also doable alternative. Nice laybacking in middle as long as you've some strength. Feels a little desperate traversing towards the finish but reach diagnally left to saviour hold. Finish fine if just tapping bolts on a top-rope - way more demanding if hanging on overhang leading clipping them.

Next time - I worked out the crux move 2nd attempt.

Making it very clear I've got no crack technique - and then things just got harder on the blank wall in the 2nd half.

Crux too reachy for me. Otherwise ok.

Couldn't make the start move today, yanked on the draw. Enjoyed the rest though...

Alternate route - straight up until moving left under roof. Thinner, tougher, but probably nicer moves.

Thin crimpy tiny foot start, then gradually easier (apart from the rampant foliage - needs more traffic) as you ascend.

Interesting. Fun finish.

Felt fine today - there are jugs all the way if you don't miss them.

Strength test I failed today. Never been comfortable on this climb. 15?

Only half rests, and lots of reaching on my only OK holds, but it generally rewards commitment. Sent it 2nd try (yay!), while the 19 on this wall shrugged me off time and again.

Start too weird for this total wuss climber

Find this very sequency - real puzzle solving for me. Just a slight variation in the order of doing things or which bit of which hold, and it shrugs you off. Some cool moves, just don't try even a slight alternative.

Skipped the nails crux

Mainly left of the bolts for a different but equally enjoyable climb. Just transitioned back at the last bolt, the crux on this variant.

Mainly right of the bolts

I think this is what we did - just so many bolts in a small area, and the topo is just spaghetti of 10 lines crossing each other to get to shared anchors

Different route this time keeping left at the balancy crux - got it too - but then not strong enough to do the little bit of pump at the end.

Another tough finish after friendly slabbing

Last moves on this wall seem to be the cruxes

Got some rope assist on that last move...

Back on a dry day

All fun and games until the hail started

Neat set of problems to solve, not all intuitive, but usually rewarding a high foot and pulling on resistance more than a great hold. Did all the moves on a couple of runs, but too cooked from earlier that day foolish midday 35 degree lost drink-bottle bike misadventure to not need a rest midway.

Went left at top for Korca finish

After swearing I'd never do this route again (it did my groin the first time), watching Cadeyn do it without dangling his left leg into the abyss once, inching up on his right (the cause of my groinal destruction), I thought I'd try doing it sticking to the right instead of worming along the razor. And, hallelujah, I'm walking the next day! Just went to the 2nd last bolt and cleaned from it knowing how awful the rope drag is if you go to extra couple of metres through the chimney to the horribly placed anchors).