Ascents by Sergey Komarov having Sport CPR

Went more or less bolt to bolt. Couldn't work out a workable beta between the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

Possible that this would be easier if not on TRS? Would be less horizontal tension pulling me off the crimps.

#TRS

Hard climbing in full sun!

Skipped the last pitch in the interest of time.

#1 of the day

In retrospect my beta at the crux was suboptimal, but it worked. Used one of the lower gastons to go to a high crimp with right hand. Might have been better to use a higher gaston with left and right on arete.

#6

It still goes.

Did it with the same beta as before (left for the first two bolts).

Naturally, I lost both feet at a different place but managed to stay on.

Finally.

Pretty much a red point; only the first two draws were up and I had an extremely stable, basically resting clipping position at the 2nd bolt. I almost lost my feet just below the 3rd clip, but held on and scrambled up.

I went left of the first two bolts. Thibaut suggested that right would be a purer ascent.

First 22.

Had two people talk me through the moves. Heel hook beta for the 3rd bolt was fantastic. Put the draws up myself.

Repeat to clean.

Easy. Chatting through what I previously thought was an impossible crux.

Wow. Much roof crux. Much fun.

Had to downclimb and rest a couple times, but did it clean.

Could barely even call this working. Looks fun and doable, but I could barely pull on. The arete angles down slightly too much for me. Maybe need more core strength?

Stiff 20 or just long? Or maybe I just need to learn to crack climb.

Had watched the first ~9 bolts, so not an onsight.

e: grade in guide was 20 at the time, later upgraded to 21

First 23. Went surprisingly easily on the first go of the day.

Had an almost-keenbar to clip the third bolt.

Much weirdness at the crux. Would do again.

The top isn't nearly as hard as it looks from the ground.

Pinkpoint was smooth, although slightly different beta than on the hangdog.

A bit wet and my bicep started cramping, but got through it. Stick clip the start.

First 21 outdoors

Intimidating boulder problem to the first bolt then easy climbing to the top.

#3

Even drier.

#morpho much easier if you're at least 175 cm tall.

Fun though!

#ecopoint

Nice steep overhang with big jugs. Nice heel hook when going over the lip to the right.

#2

Nice laybacking moves at the top.

#5

Fun.

Cleanest accent yet. Went straight through the crux without faffing.

Super pumped from 'Prokasrstination' but got there eventually.

Definitely not a 23 as in the Freeclimb topo. thecrag's grade of 21 seems a bit soft but I don't have much experience at the grade. Rock Deluxe North says 20 which seems fair.

Had a bit of beta once I was past the 2nd bolt.

Initial roof is very fun. Don't hesitate, just go for it. The slab above is less sustained but still interesting.

#6

Fun!

Thin at the top.

No grade given on thecrag. Difficulty felt similar to the 5.9 next door.

#4

First flash of a route that seems like a standard 20.

Watched a few people dog this back in April, so I had a pretty good memory of where the crux was and vague memory of the beta. Got off route at the crux and had to downclimb a couple meters.

First attempt of the day

Better beta on the bottom section

Smooth. Third trip working it.

Definitely a one move wonder. Ended up dynoimg.

Would have been nice to have a couple more extended draws - lots of drag.

Not sure if this is exactly a send; hung on the chain to clip them.

#4

Such a good route.

My favourite at the Junior Olympics wall.

Would have been easier if my hands didn't go numb from the cold.

#5

#1

Done in the rain, so the top was a bit wet.