Ascents by Sergey Komarov having Trad CPR

Wow.

What variety: weird mantle, normal mantle, slab, pink tricam, crack.

Perfect end to the day.

#5 The vertical flag at the crux was crucial for me. Looks like there might be enough gear to lead it? Small cams in horizontal at crux.

Weird indeed.

Hard for 5.7, or my lead head needs refreshing?

Led up what seemed more likely to be the intended route. Left past some loose rock and a single bolt.

Placed green C4, green hexcentric (bad), yellow C4, red C4, yellow hexcentric (good). Tree belay and walk off.

First trad lead that I hadn't inspected from the ground.

Two #3 s would have been nice

I have a new understanding of run out.

4.5 hours car to car.

#2 Went up again after hearing that the overhang is juggy and only slightly damp. Very glad I did so.

Crack gloves probably also helped in the slightly damp sections.

#3 "devil's pitchfork"

Bottom was very wet, but it improved higher up

Blue hexcentric at bottom of crack. Yellow C4 at top.

"Devil's Pitchfork"

#greenpoint

Wide! A #5 would have been nice.

Second pitch after doing Chamonix. Probably didn't traverse all the way at the end.

Placed cams 0.5, 0.75 and some medium/large nuts. Topped out on the right to avoid choss.

Need bigger gear to lead it, but practiced some jams.

So much fun.

Got lost in the approach and on the route, but did some variation of it cleanly. Must do it again and do the fairy tale traverse variation.

First trad lead

Fun, slightly tricky crux to easy terrain.

Not in a good headspace when I did this. Maybe the sun and approach?

Tried to do the crux of CJD Arete but had to take. This was silly for at least two reasons: I've flashed CJD Arete and repeated it cleanly multiple times, and I was supposed to go to the wide Diablo crack. Ended up going into the wide crack from the jugs below the second bolt. The offwidth crack was fun and super secure. Placed #2 Camalot and #7 Rockcentric where it narrows.

Somehow missed the second last bolt???

Would have been more comfortable with a #5.

Put in an absurd amount of protection (8 pieces?) just to practice.

Did this on the face rather than in the chimney.

All passive pro. Easy top was run out.

#greenpoint

Clipped first bolt of suicide wall to avoid plunging into the abyss to the left by falling before first placement.

Purple friend, green friend, red camalot, green rockcentric. Run out at the top.

Followed finishing on the right. Probably off route as didn't see the one bolt. Trad anchor and walk off.

#6

Wet. Dehydrated and cramping badly.

Hardest 5.8 I've done. Need practice in chimneys!!

Tricky transition past the overhang

Attempted 'Green Eggs and Ham' but failed to find the start. We only climbed 10 meters that were much harder than the promised 15.

Took first trad fall: 3m onto a medium offset nut when I pulled a hand hold off the wall. Was backed up by a C4 #2 just below.

Retreated and attempted 'Dihedral Wall'.

Fun.

Found a bolt on the first pitch, presumably to replace the old pin.

#4 So, so wet. But that was probably for the best, it forced me to actually jam rather than layback.

Would be interested to see how much easier this is when dry.

Crux seemed extra wet and mossy today. Pulled a draw there but everything else was clean.

Clipped two worst pieces so far - rusted bolt and homemade hanger just after crux, and rusty piton just below anchor. Would be a bad fall if either failed.

First pitch clean.

Bailed on second pitch - leader wasn't confident going up the steep section after the traverse.

Hard start for a 14! I'd put what we did around 18, so we must have been off route somehow.