Ascents by Marc dM having Trad CPR

Little gear on second half of the first slab. Great exposure after traverse to the left, where a piton is most welcome. Plenty good gear in the book. The left ending is really easy, i wish i had gone right on the face... but felt better "cheating" ;-)

Super link Cabernet / Muscadel, third pitch has lots of loose stones though.

Excellent trady and technical. but goes straight through the baboon toilet, and has quite a few "glassy polished" sections. Would still do it again.

Perfectly clean and solid rock all the way. good gear.

Really fun. Will try leading it next time

Super cool. Around pitch 4 à LOT of grass and sod clumps, pretty slippery and scary. Most used piece of pro : cams 1 to 3. very few nuts. Had to pull on a cam in pitch 14 as i tried to go straight up into choss instead of traversing left then up.

Crux pitch was definitely the chimney for all 3 of us, maybe because of the style? I hated it and had to pull on a draw, but all the other pitches largely made up for it.

Lots of options

Interesting rope management exercise. Especially at 4 people & 3 ropes on the pinnacle.

Did the alternative version, but the "good crack" was on the left face? Amazing anyways.

Built my stance on the wrong "obvious block" after turning around the corner : do yourself a favor and use the one 2m above with a piton

First pitch poor gear and glassy smooth section. Bring down the star rating by one. Pitch 2 is nicer, with a funky move around the nose. Pitch 3 really good!

Assumed route taken by mistake with missplaced stance on large ledge before 6m right traverse. Will check again trying to do other routes around it ;-)

First trad lead experience ! amazing !

Pitch 1 needed to get there, pitch 4 needed to get out. But 2 & 3 are nice ! We scrambled down the ramp, hairy at times, could have rapped from trees, might even had been quicker.

Gear is present but not plentiful, and nothing below the roof (maybe a micronut). roof easyly bypassed to the right with gear ; and nice roof move... for the second.

P1 scrambled from the left, p3&4 linked.

P2 stance has 1 seat to belay from, other party members are semi-hanging. P3 has a committing section with little gear (2 features to slings)

solid at the grade!

pulling though the last 2m with a grunt

Second try did the job. Barely

Really fun end, turning the corner reveals so many cool features!

Started from the ground, buttress and pitch 1 makes a good 55m. Superb climb!

Abbed at the tree after Pitch 1, last climb of theday and the rest was in the sun. Great slab pitch !

1 low fall, 1 brique-size rock pulled out, heavy hangdog all the way. Need to work on my jam and stem skills!

Hard first move, jam Rh and reach for next jam Lh. Follows easily to and around roof to the left, then beautiful hand crack to the top. Not sure it's that climb really.

Linked pitches 2 & 3. The "onderstebo" move is definitely very awkward and harder than 13. The rest is easy.

Via the variation first pitch, skipping most of the second pitch. Third pitch very clean and nice headwall, but sparse with gear.

Classic for the eye itself, but 2 third of the climbing is crap

In rain, pulled up by leader ;-)