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description

This is pure climbing history - the first 6A in the world and probably Fontainebleau's most famous boulder. An absolute must-do for every visitor - if you find a way through the crowds around. Applause guaranteed in case of success!

Slighlty overhanging wall with polished holds, followed by a sloper top-out. Even today not to be underestimated, especially for the shorter ones.

Route history

1946First ascent: René Ferlet

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 48.44704, 2.63823

Grade citation

6A Assigned grade
6A+ [5C+ - 6B] + grAId
V4 Rooster

ethic

ALL FIRES ARE PROHIBITED IN THE FOREST

NO CIGARETTES !!! NO STOVES !! NO OPEN FLAMES

The sandstone is fragile. To preserve the area (and the climbs) please adhere to the following rules:

  1. Use chalk with caution and brush it off afterwards (including huge tick marks).

  2. Chalk should only be used on hands, never directly on the rock!

  3. Clean the bottom of your climbing shoes removing all sand and dirt before any climb. This is essential to limit rock erosion.

  4. DONT CLIMB ON WET ROCK!!!!

  5. Night climbing is prohibited to reduce the impact on the animal habitat.

  6. Dont use the base of the routes as your toilet. Go into the forest a little further off the track or out of the area for a 1 and dig a hole for a 2.

Respectons Bleau

Bien grimper

inherited from Fontainebleau

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 89 from 65 ratings.

Difficulty - 6A

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 4 ratings.

Suggested Grade

6A

Based on 4 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 2
Flash 5
Send 58
Attempt 21

Comment keywords

good classic awesome beautiful fun fantastic brilliant magic cool amazing great hard fall feet fingers slippery polished

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9789080749276

A selective guidebook detailing 5,286 straight up boulder problems in Greater Fontainebleau that are graded between Font 5- and 6c+. The guidebook covers 70 different areas to the north, west and south of Fontainebleau.

Author(s): David Atchison-Jones

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781873665152

This is a selective guidebook describing the very best areas in the forests of Fontainebleau, and is aimed at groups of mixed climbing abilities who all want to climb in the same general area, covering over 7,600 problems and 123 circuits.

Author(s): David Atchison-Jones

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9781873665237

This is a selective guidebook describing the quieter and less frequented bouldering areas of Fontainebleau that will enable you to escape from the crowds or visit somewhere new, covering over 9,000 problems from Fb 1a to Fb 9a.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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