Routes in Arapiles

Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top.

Old James Falla project with 3 bolts. Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27.

Sit start at low flake, press left to side pull and dyno to top. Right arete is out.

Great little line up between Hendrix and Footloose, albeit vanishingly independent up higher.

Was a bolted sport route ....looks to be only one bolt now.

Bring some painkillers.

Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt.

A neat little climb squeezed between Bed Lag and The Creesed Palm. Originally set as a top rope problem; there is enough gear in the corner to keep things sane.

Start up Bed Lag, then move left into the corner on the arete. Small wires protect the run out to the rooflet, then move left to finish up The Creesed Palm.

Avoids the last hard bit of Bent. It's thought that this finish might be where Bad P2 went (before the bolt!).

Climb the majority of Bent, until the point where that route steps left across the void; instead, go up the round arete on good edges past a bolt.

Sit start at the very bottom of the Crack. Up passed the mouth of the screaming boulder and top out mantle next to little tree.

Instead of scrambling up to the top of Pharos, climb straight up from the DBB of FC. Plenty of gear and good belay on top around a boulder

Start up Very Anxious then before joining Anxiety Neurosis move L under the roof and blast through the roof and up the overhanging wall above staying between Kama Sutra and AN. Finish at AN p1 loweroffs or continue up any pitch above to the summit. FA early noughties IIRC ... clarification welcome.

Climb Waterboys, upon arrival at the finish/lowering jugs heave up to gain and exit via the flake system as for Vague Corner.

Excellent climb for the grade. Absorbing from bottom to top.

Exodus 2.5 with the obvious finish - up Copyright. A brilliant undertaking in its own right, but lacking the contrived headwall finish of the original.

Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the left one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top.

Start: Start on the Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2.

Rising traverse left, then up on spaced but good holds

Jenny Wren, retro bolted, with direct start up the arete. This is the usual way to do the route these days.

An easy pitch for parties wanting to get from Kestrel to Flinders Lane without an increase in grade.

From the belay at the top of the first pitch, step right and climb up right a couple of metres to a ledge system. Walk right across the mossy ledge system to the corner on the final pitch of Yo Yo and follow this to Flinders Lane. Make sure to place a good directional runner after the traverse.

Start as for Bugalugs just right of Bolero through pockets to letterbox then straight up the wall with good protection in horizontals.

Start on Coming on Chris and then at the crossroad with Nose Job follow it right for a much harder finish.

Probably about the same grade as Nose Job because on both variants you get a good rest before the hardest section, but the first section on this variant is easier.

Lime green FH 3m L of SS, with a faded tag on it. 24/5 for the start. Presumably it then joins into the big undercling flake up and leftish.

Brushed streak at left end of the main wall. Rock Bollard for sling or abseil

Start: Start 5 metres left of Hard And Fast, about 25 metres right of 'Doo Voo'.

A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful.

May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look.

Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V.

Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor.

Traverse R to L

This is just the original first pitch of Dunes and should probably be deleted.

Variant first pitch that avoids the greasy start of the original, but is quite runout. Squeeze through behind the block L of the original start to a ledge. Up the L side of the block and up the slab with very little gear to join the original first pitch at the corner/overlap

Sit start.

Sit start arete and head straight up.

up the obvious left line to small tree

1. (20) Starts under the roof between Prevarication and Hurricane Lamp Cracks and powers straight through it. Move on upward (be aware of loose blocks) to a bolt anchor (45m rappel).

2. (18) Onward through some steep moves and then at the slopey ledge, move slightly right then up the horizontals to a bolt. After moving past the crux trend left towards a bolt anchor (30m rappel to next anchor) under the roof, opposite the tennis court.

3. (14) Move far right under the roof to the big offwidth crack, struggle your way through and then climb the headwall on the left side, moving left after a ledge, then back right to another bolt anchor (25m rappel to anchor under the roof).

Steep. Ring bolts.

Walking off is very scenic and enjoyable, but if you want to rap off there are double rings a few metres right of the topout of Eskimo Nell, then another set on the northeast end of the Oasis ledge, and chains atop Drifting Sand. Rap 1 30m , rap 2 45m.

Link Yesterday Direct into Use No Chooks.

Straight up the bulging arete right side of right wall trending left to exit via central groove, stand start from the crimp steps.

Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two.

Straightens out the top section of the original by staying L of the last bolt, making it much better.

The roof is cool. Said to be 100m, which looks right, but the pitch lengths don't add up so you'll have to make do.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Underneath the Colours'.

1. 24m (20) Bouldery crux up the blank-looking smooth wall past a fixed sling. Easier jugs follow.

2. 18m (-) Up onto foothold on bulge. Trend slightly L to stance.

3. 27m (-) Smooth wall to red roof. Bridge out to a blind reach around the lip and swing on the jug. 'Doddle' onwards.

Originally graded 30, it has settled as a solid grade 28 and offers the longest piece of continuous steep climbing at Arapiles.

Start as for High Dive (although the FA started by traversing in from Belly Flop).

At the major horizontal break prior to its crux head left and launch up past cam slots to a piton, don't trust this (back it up !), but continue anyway through to "Power, Corruption and Lies" and another, even more horrible piton. Ignore this and instead, clip the 2 bolts and continue straight up to finish as for Cellular Destruction.

(Don't escape off R to the arete after the letterbox slot lest you be ridiculed by the climbing community)

The thin wall 2m right of Camelot.

Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing.

Great sit start half way across Finalgon and direct through underclings and small crimp to top out in same line.

A great multipitch up the back of the Pharos at 22

1. (22) First pitch of Shivers

2. (16) Short offwidth groove on the right. Move back L to belay under third pitch of Trojan (2nd pitch of Trojan)

3. (22) Third pitch of Trojan

4. Smile.

Crank up via corner.

Beautiful incident cracks to high finish. Descent same way or over back.

Bring some painkillers.

Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt.

Provides a good 4 pitch climb largely independent of Syrinx incorporating Clive’s magnificent traverse on Syrinx Direct (odd name for a traverse). There are only two short sections shared with Syrinx. As a whole, it offers good clean climbing, except for 10 metres of easy, somewhat mossy ground on the second pitch. That, as they say, will clean up with traffic, at which time we can probably add an additional star. Rope-drag can be a big issue, potentially destroying the fun on the traverse and there are many ways to slice and dice the pitch lengths and belays for pitches 2 and 3 to minimise this. This description takes a long, fairly direct second pitch finishing at an uncommon belay point. This allows for a shorter third pitch and the anchors are pretty straightforward so it’s quite an efficient option. Take lots of alpine draws or slings as most runners on pitches 2 and 3 will need a sling. Start at the obvious line 7 metres right of Syrinx, as for The Lute.

1. 35m (13) Climb the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. From the pod at 18 metres continue straight up the steep thin line, ignoring the mossy right-hand line. Belay 2m left of a large, precariously perched boulder (The Lute traverses right below this boulder to its rap anchor).

2. 45m (11) Climb the line directly above, keeping on the left after the first few moves, to the large overhang at 10m. Traverse right immediately below the overhang into the hanging corner. Follow the corner until it merges with the scrubby line to the right. Easy but mossy for a few metres up the corner to bushes. Step left and up 3 metres to the long ledge on Syrinx. Rather than belay here, climb up right to the short corner with the arrow marking. Belay on the right at the top of the corner on the narrow ledge.

3. 30m (8) Pull up the little wall above the belay then step left and up, moving a little left until level with the ledge on the right which is the belay for Headbanger. Now go left and up past a big bucket hold and a U-bolt, moving left through the exposed orange rock to the prominent guano-stained ledge (long sling on runners on the guano ledge). Continue left and up across the top of the major corner (airy) to a small ledge on Sunday Best. Awesome easy traverse but probably not suitable for beginners.

4. 20m (7) Continue left past hollow block to evade the roof and then up to join Pitch 7 of Syrinx to finish. Scramble off as for that climb.

As for "Redacted 1", but avoids stepping out right at the finish and goes straight up via a fixed hanger. It features some fantastic (and weird) climbing, such that most people seem to choose this finish rather than the original.

The tough-looking bulge just left of Pumping, to lower-offs. Name TBC.

Start as for Left Wall moving right and up to exit as for Crankshaft.

Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'.

Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground. Follow the line, except at halfway where you need to traverse L for a few metres below the flake before going up to rejoin it. Staying with the flake is reachy 25.

Left edge of left wall of alcove.

On the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder. Climb the face just left of the easy crack. Contrived but somewhat fun.

This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise.

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

The chimney

Two bolts left of fortress lead into FYN DS

Can be bouldered, lead or top roped (there's a bolt on top).

This has been a common warm up for the harder routes here since at least the 1990's so not sure of its FA details.

Starts at first bolt of Power Corruption and Lies by (clipping first, and then) leaning scarily and irreversibly across the chasm. Shorter people (under 180cm) will not be able to reach and will have to grab the bolt to start.

Swing onto the jugs (if you can reach) just under the 1st bolt and climb up past Power Corruption and Lies's 2 FH's to finish as for that route, thereby avoiding the much more difficult crux traverse.

Note: The same trick can be done at the 2nd bolt at about grade 23 or 24 and a slightly less reachy (but still intimidating) lean, avoiding Power Corruption and Lies's second crux.

You're Terminated Direct. Open Project. Direct start possible (will require a bolt) up the blunt arete between Dark Matter and A Taste of Honey.

Direct finish possible straight over bulge after 2nd bolt on You're Terminated. Would make the line completely independent of Lats in the Belfry.

Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up.

Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully.

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.

Start: Start as for JL.

1m left of Dynamic.

A good way to do the good bit of F Sharp from the ground. Start up Dirge for 8m, move left and up Low Note to the base of the diagonal, and follow this up L into the business of F Sharp. When it gets easy head R to the chains and lower off back to the ground. It's possible to clean your own gear (with admin), but much better to have someone second it.

Classic. Start up first two pitches of Kaiser, finish up top two pitches of Resignation (15,13, 15,12).

Right of In Lieu is an arete, and this route ascends the flake a metre right of that arete.

Up In Lieu to the ledge, then work out how to establish yourself on the flake. After the flake, go up the bulging wall above.

Maybe 20m below Barbed and 10m up from the Clown a doglegged thin crack doesn't reach the ground. Up seam in grey slab until desperately thin moves gain crack. Rap anchor. Gear is rather sketchy.

The Continuation of the traverse (1) on the wall facing the creek

Classic climbing up over the bulge on incut jugs.

Left to right traverse. Optional sit start adds value but doesn't change grade.