Routes in Australia for selected grade

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

1. Up corner then traverse left along ledge with committing move around arete up to belay. Gear belay.

2. Straight up off belay, trending vaguely right through juggy terrain. Up to DRB.

34m rap from double ring bolts above the climb - 70m rope or doubles required. Can be done in two raps using a 60 and the mid-station, or walk right and down the gully.

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

The excellent thin cracks up the middle of the front of this pillar. Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.

Offers up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards.

Sweet Dream is regarded as the best introduction to multi-pitch climbing in New South Wales - however a recent fatality from rock fall and serious accident involving belayer failure should remind climbers this is not a casual walk in the park. The advice below is relevant to any multi-pitch route - but is contained in this route description to make sure people read it.

Rock fall is a hazard on any outdoor rock climb - but it can be especially hazardous on Sweet Dreams due to multiple parties being on the route at the same time. The danger is mainly from the unstable hillside above the route when topping out - but loose rock can be found on any pitch. Wear a helmet (on the approach and even when queuing at the base of the route) and rig belays with long enough slings/rope that a belayer can dodge falling missiles without being chained down. Care needs to be taken by all parties who attempt this route. If you have a beginner in tow let them know to be careful around loose rock.

This route is mainly low angle and thus easily affected by rain and summer sun. Have the skills and equipment to abseil off the route if required. This includes taking tube style belay devices suitable for double ropes (a grigri will not work). All belays are fitted with double ringbolts suitable for abseiling. A 60m rope is required for retreat above pitch 2 - use the anchors on Saccharine Nightmare.

Although there are many bolts on this route - this is NOT a sport route (despite what you may have heard). A trad rack is required for pitches 2 & 5 and useful on other pitches (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Bolt brackets are no longer required on this route. Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent.

The route is only grade 14 if you finish via the corner system & left finish on pitch 5. There are two bolted variants to this pitch (both around grade 17) that avoid potential loose rock in the corner. Local advice is to use these pitches in preference to the corner (this was the location of the rockfall fatality).

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

1. 20m (14) Short wall past bolt onto ledge then left to chimney (bolt), up to ledge and DRB belay.

2. 20m (10) Trad protected crack to DRB belay in little alcove. Save a large cam for the last few metres of this pitch. Without trad you will be SOLOING this pitch.

3. 28m (13) Traverse up and right across slab past 6 bolts and couple of cam slots to DRB.

4. 25m (13) Up via very easy climbing and no protection to second set of DRB after about 8m (ignore these). Continue up wall (3 bolts & optional cam), then step right to crack above bowel clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner at one of two sets of DRBs. The right one is best for the trad corner - the left is best for the bolted grade 17 variants. Either way - this is an exposed belay to rockfall - be prepared to dodge.

5. 40m (14) Up easy trad protected corner for 20m, move left a few moves when possible then continue up subtle trad protected corner for another 10m to low double bolt belay - or even better a massive tree belay another 10m up the hill. Technically this is called the 'Variant Finish' but is the common way this route is now done.

The three variants to pitch 5 off the ledge are described here - but also have separate listings on this website.

The Original Finish (14) - climb the same trad corner for 20m then traverses RIGHT onto a big ledge and cam belay near huge detached blocks (not recommended due to potential loose rock). Finish up via 10m (10) pitch up the chossy overhang above taking extreme care not to drop rocks on people below.

Middle Bolted Variant (15-17) - climbs the wall just left of the corner past several ringbolts and then goes directly up the TRAD protected finish of the original pitch 5. This pitch is the easier of the two variants - it is possible to escape into the corner at one point which makes it more like grade 15.

Left Bolted Variant (17) - from the left DRB climb the subtle exposed arete past three or so ringbolts then join into the Middle Variant for a couple of bolts and then the trad finish. It is possible to traverse left at about 20m to the final belay of Saccharin Nightmare - and finish up that routes top bolted pitch (thus avoiding the trad finish of Sweet Dreams.

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

The line of ringbolts at far right of wall. New anchor 2015.

Start 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).

1. 24m (13) Up crack then left up corner to ledge. DBB rap anchors.

2. 22m (14) Crack and corner.

Classic easy sport route - bring the bolt plates for this. Start 40m left of Katoomba Bros at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof. Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting!

A good safe introduction to Frog at the grade. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the ledge but you can continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

The super popular left side of the arete. All rings and lower-off at top (or top out to carrots).

The best easy sport route at the crag. All rings.

Start 5m R of 'MOBS'.

A popular beginner lead that gets harder as you go up. 4 RBs and DBB.

Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing. TR access can be gained by scrambling up from the left.

Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'.

Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'.

Very popular, mainly due to the fact that it stays in the shade all day! Classy but technical climbing ascends the very obvious corner R of SOH. Excellent gear (if you have a number of fist-sized cams) with a slightly awkward and overhung crux. Up easily to DBB as you top out of the corner.

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor.

Up the easy corner with good gear to be found. Pause for a moment to ponder the tricky exit move, flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

Major corner crack and a popular all trad line. Beware, the route name is apt - there have been a couple of fatalities on this route. If in doubt don't run it out.

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. Decent gear all the way but if you're belaying be aware that there are several ledges that the leader could hit.

There are three choices of start to this route: the rightmost is the Direct Start (19) which takes the clean layback corner into the line.

The middle start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17.

The original route (14) starts 4m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section.

Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down, or 1 x 70m will suffice).

Start at the faint "SI" mark.

Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted.

Start 2m R of 'Tiger Stripe'.

Straight up past 5 FHs to DBB. Last FH & DBB shared with 'Tiger Stripe'.

Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right Keeping right of black strip. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

The best 14 here! The brilliant L facing corner is an excellent introduction to sustained bridging and jamming. Rap chain is visible just up from the ledge.

4 or 5 moves on incuts.

Mantle (try the right edge), up through cavelet, crux around 3rd RB and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs.

Chossy corner 1 m R of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. 4 RBs, anchors shared with 'Hanging Garden'.

Start in the bottom of the little flared crack and go up diagonally left under tree branch.

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'.

Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB.

Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall. The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C".

Decent beginner lead, well-protected by 5 RBs to chains.

(Rebolted May 2020)

The R-curving crack just R of Abdul. Awkward - but you've got to get up to Blockbuster Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

The original Queensland easy sport route! R of 'Charger'. Runout start to high RB then superb fishbowl jugs past a second RB to lower-off anchor on the right. When first bolted this was quite controversial (bolts on a 13!) but in the 21st century it's considered quite runout! Rebolted 2015.

More great slabbing. Start 8 metres right of Brolga, directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.

1. 27m (13) Go up on the left and move right into the weakness. Up weakness then face to ledge, just left of some swordgrass.

2. 46m (14) Up the wall past a bolt for 30 metres to the bulge. Pass this and find a semi-hanging belay above. People used to belay below the bulge but the anchors were poor.

3. 17m (6) Easily up.

Third line of bolts from the left. Rappel station at top.

Up to the ledge then head left to the arete and enjoy the exposure.

Shared start with Pitang Pitang. Up the small arete for 3 bolts, then follow the ramp diagonally R to DRB lower-off with shackles. Likely to be stiff for the grade.

The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has 3 bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to righthand anchor (clip and go).

Ring bolts to lower off on the undercut grey slab.

Several rings to lower off. If you want to access 'Sundeck' clip the lower offs and move past them to double U bolts at the base of 'Piccolo Luna'

Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness.

Start 2m left of Sincerity. The wide crack in the corner - take big cams. Double hangers with rings lower off at the top.

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second.

Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH".

Climb straight up right of the large loose block, then tend slightly left above this, to the DBB shared with SD. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014.

Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected.

Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete.

2. 30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt.

3. 32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner.

4. 50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'.

5. 35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.

Starts 3m right of the trench ('Locris'). Follow the FH, then up to anchor. 5th bolt added Dec 2016 on request of FA.

A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade). If you have only a 50m rope belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge (50m). Be careful of the large loose block at the belay. It seems well keyed in but treat with caution. Use similar caution with a few other blocks envcountered during the pitch.

If you only have a single rope, you can do two abseils (2x30m) from the DRB to the left atop Antiques Roadshow. Please don't use the old exit left up the gully to Flinders Lane as it acts as a funnel for rocks onto the climbs below. Consider Kestrel Alternate Finish as an easy way to get to Flinders Lane.

This is not a well protected route. There have been a number of accidents on it and there are better choices if you are looking for routes of this grade (Electric Lead, Electronic Flag, Devil's Wart) Up the first corner to a ledge. From here, most people step into the middle line under the R edge of a huge chock stone-like flake. Up this with increasing difficulty to rest. Alternatively, you can go up SC for a move or two and step in L. From here, blast up the chock stone filled corner, and then easily to the chains at the tree.

Start in the corner, behind the tree... do not lean on the tree.. it bends !

Start behind jacaranda tree, 2m L of 'Play School'.

Great beginner lead. Up series of ledges past 4 RBs to DBB shared with 'Play School'.

Corner 4m left of N. Undercut start, then corner to cave (use high poor fixed pin and extra wires). Traverse left to ledge (poor piton + cams). Go left 2m up overhang (cam on left) and runout up wall to 2 carrot belay.

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

Solid for the grade. Up the steep little corner, then take the left of the 2 grooves from the stance at 1/2 height. Be wary of filthy, loose exit.

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

Immediately left of the Coal Sack crack system. Follow ring bolts to the anchor.

1. 20m (14) Follow aesthetic crack up to belay stance. DBB.

2. 30m Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. BRs and anchor replaced August 2017.

Start 3m L of 'Event Horizon'. Marked "SD".

Follow 4 RBs straight up left of the large loose block, trending right above this, to finish at the DBB. Shared belay with EH. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to DBB. Was known as "MB" before being bolted.

Start 2m left of Hope. Slab climbing up orange face between Hope and Charity. Step right and finish on Hope when it gets hard. Direct finish is much harder.

2m right of 'Parents in Pain'. Look for faint blue rectangle painted at head height.

Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds.

This route shares an anchor with "The Gruffalo".

Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD”

Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux.

Often nicknamed "Awkward Alley", to avoid the awkwardness, you will be climbing committing bridging and face moves. Climb a great hand crack corner to a flake at 3m... the straight forward climbing ends there. Blast up the wide and grunty crack to the ledge with a tree on the L. From here 3 lines are possible, using a combination of the left crack and middle arete moves is exciting and good climbing.

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.

Start: Start 6m R of DS.

Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.

This is a must, nice bridging on good rock.

Start: The main corner below the sheoak tree.

One for the Kiddies Start just left off the corner, up the blunt arete.

Up 'Dracophyllum Corner' to ledge then move left and straight up wall.

The most popular climb in the 'Warrumbungles' and justifiably so. One of the most striking lines in Australia. Can be safely climbed and descended with a single 70m rope.

1. 30m (6) The first 90 metres was originally climbed in three pitches but can be done quite safely (and more easily) in two rope stretching pitches (50m rope), including comfy belays. Follow rib.

2. 30m (8). Keep following rib.

3. 30m (8). Keep following rib to large ledge.

4. 40m (14) Move out left around the rib at the little horn and onto the northern face for approx 5m and then back to the arete. Up to a large ledge. Approx 3 pitons on this pitch.

5. 20m (13) Up the rib from here on. The ledges for good belays are pretty obvious and about 20 metres apart.

6. 20m (12)

7. 20m (11) Up past 2 pitons at start.

Was originally called 'Cornerstone Rib Direct' but as the direct version is far more popular than the 'original' version, the direct version has taken the name.

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner (gear on left), then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection at the start, can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave.

Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of OLD.

Another old classic. Bring 4-5 bolt plates for the beginning of climb. The rest is trad pro. Abseil access from top chains is approx 50m to ground. Tie a stopper knot.

Start: 8m right of BPC. Has an alternate direct start 8m right up corner past old bolt.

1. 10m Up grey wall to small corner, right onto slab, traverse right to tree. Most parties skip this belay and continue up p2 to cave belay.

2. 15m Cracks (big pro) to cave. DRBB.

3. 25m Through the cave and hole, or corner outside to the top. DBB.

Climb can be done in 2 pitches if you begin at direct start. (No traverse, just follow straight up the crack to cave).

Replaced bolts November 2015

Fantastic location at a moderate grade, apparently has a history of being used to serenade enthusiastic new lady climbers.

Start: Rap off left-side (facing in) of prow to DBB. A bit of trad gear can make the hanging belay stance a bit more comfortable.

Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing. Start as for Watchtower Crack.

1. 25m (12) Pitch 1 of Watchtower Crack.

2. 25m (13) Up dark-coloured face heading slightly right to flake sweeping to right. Step right with difficulty onto long ledge leading right. Walk right to ring bolts. An awkward pitch.

3. 10m (14) Move off right end of ledge and climb poorly protected face to next ledge (bolts and chain).

4. 25m (14) Long flake on right with tricky finish to ledge.

5. 30m (12) From right end of ledge, head up wall and finish just right of little gully.

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

6m left of Whippersnapper

Climb diagonally right & up to the left hand lower-offs.

The corner crack just Right of 'Barbara Streisand'. Finish up the ramp to DRB

Loweroff added by Safer Cliffs Victoria 14 July 23.

Be aware a large Cunningham's skink may be in residence hiding in the flake (waist level) above the bottom shelf.

The corner

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK”

Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip.

Walk past DRP and continue past double rap rings on arete. 20m further is an old rap station made of old green tape tied off a gum tree. 5m further is a gum tree growing beneath some think brush. Sandstone block marked 'S' with cairn on top here. Scramble up through scrub for approx 10m then head right to find the line of fixed hangers.

1. 33m (8). Fixed hangers & Carrots. Up and right to cave on arete. Easy face climbing on easy angled slab, straight up with some beautiful views. Stay on route or risk hitting some chossy rock. Triple Carrot belay on ledge (admire old rusty belay in cave on your right.)

2. 26m (8) Left along ledge, then up and back to corner. It's possible to scramble off left here.

3. 14m (6) A fixed hanger, then medium cams/nuts. Up right crack. Belay off Rap anchors in Chimney. To get off here, rap to previous belay & scramble left or...

4. 26m (14) Alternate Finish. Chimney up abseil route, past anchor and up. Walk off as for Dirty Rotten Pig. Easy face climbing up the line of ring bolts just left (facing the cliff) of the first boars head abseil.

LOST FROM LEFT SCRAMBLE? If you're just climbing the bolted sections, here's how to get out:

Follow the line of bolts left, around the cliff, through the small forest and up onto the slab (about 15 mins). Look to your left and you'll see a set of staples in the boulder. Set up a hand-line from here using the bolts- left to the small cave, then around to the opposite side of the boulder, following the line of bolts along a high traverse, over a small gap, before meeting the main cliffline and short walk up to the carpark. You will not be able to belay due to the amount of turns so be careful setting this line up, and consider ways of protecting yourself. Tie the end off at the last bolt and use the standard 2 carabiners on safety to traverse, with draws at each bolt. Note- the exit can be much more daunting for a nervous beginner than the actual climb, but is a fun experience.

Stellar corner crack - one of the best easy cracks in the Mtns. Start under roof marked HD, up slab to bouldery move through roof (bolt) and then gear thereafter. Finish with airy traverse left and mantle up to ledge. There is double ringbolts above the route (awkward to belay from but fine for rap cleaning), or chain 5m to the left. Protected by #4 size cams and smaller - hexes also work fine.

Starting at a prominent corner with twin cracks.

1. 35m. Up the corner to belay at tree or notch.

2. 30m. Continue up the main crack-line above small tree to the big ledge on top of the buttress.

Continue as for "Bert's Fear" (45m) up the ridge or rap down your choice of three anchors right from ledge - Brown Madonna / Pleasant Screams.

A remarkable juggy headwall on the 2nd pitch. Start 2m right of AMJ below bolt at 5m. Single set of cams required.

1. 20m 2 bolts and spaced trad to double bolt belay.

2. 30m Continue up wall and slightly overhung orange jugs above (6 bolts).

Good beginner's climb. Down the path below GBTS then up to the right.

Start as for Grandma's Wheelchair, but straight up.

Up the chimney until it ends. Trend left slightly until the wall steepens and blanks out. Now mount the ledge on the right like a beached whale with as much dignity as you can muster.

Start: At the centre of the wall is a prominent chimney.

Start 2m L of the usual 'The Hyena's Heinie' start.

An alternate start to 'The Hyena's Heinie' which makes it very slightly harder. Up steep blocky arete past 2 RBs before joining the usual line at its 3rd bolt.

Start at the base of the deep crack.

Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

Two very nice pitches.

1. 25m (14) Follow the line diagonally left, quite tricky with poor protection, until able to go up easily. Up to right-facing corner on right side of huge block. Corner to Ledge.

2. 25m (14) Up the face for 12 metres to where the wall steepens and continue up, veering slightly left to finish just right of the arete. The original finish traversed over to the arete.

Corner to the right of ME.

Right side of the arete.

A good'n.

Start: Start at the initialled R-facing corner down the left end of 'Back Wall'.

A light rack of cams (maybe BD 0.3 - 3) is more than enough to protect this. Most bolts are carrots

1. 18m (8) Up a few metres to bolt (used more to show direction than for protection). Up to vertical crack for pro and up bulbous wall (another bolt on right) to DBB at top of buttress. Walk up and right 8 metres to start of next pitch. DBB on wall. Many people don't find the start of this and have epics, walk 8m, find the DBB!

2. 40m (12) Left of belay grunt onto wall (crux). Natural pro in crack or horizontal breaks up higher. Clip bolt on left. Then move diagonally right to small friend (#0) in horizontal crack and further rightwards on easy stuff to bolt (clip with sling to reduce drag). Up left clipping two bolts, steep tricky move (easiest if you move left). Easy 10m ramble with two bolts to DBB. Best to give your second a tight rope when they start the pitch.

3. 16m (9) Bolt on right shows the way, then up crack on left to belay. (Bolt and #½ friend or purple camalot.)

4. 45m (8) From right of the belay move up a few metres, then traverse left past bolt runner to arête/ridge. Up ridge 30m past 4 bolts. Walk across rightwards to bolt on little buttress. Over this and walk 10m+ (no bolt protection) and scramble through small bushes up easy crack into cave to DBB (at your feet).

5. 21m (12) From belay start to the right. Up wall trending left past 4 bolts. Climb onto large blocks at top. They seem OK. And traverse right passing bolt that protects the second to DBB.

6. 26m (8) Clip bolt on right of belay. Stand on rock thing and up. Follow ridge with a few bolts to top. DBB.

Step off block and follow steepening slab.