Routes in Australia for selected grade

Take the twin finger cracks up the overhanging smooth wall (very good small wires and cams), until forced to step right and crank up steep wall (crux), before clipping last bolt on Prehensile, then on to anchors.

Climbs the left arete of Compulsion. Slick/polished so best avoided when it is in full sun. Start immediately left of the arete at the left-leaning flake/seam. Up this, then past a fixed hanger and 3 more bolts.

Finger traverse into thin crack. 1FH

The top half of this route was destroyed by the Sep 2021 Earthquake, See route 'shake and quake" for the new re-established route.

Very good. Steep with tech moves for feet.

At the left (west) end of the crag, a rock slope meets some steep boulders and overhung sections. This area has a few short, but hard climbs that would be serious boulders (if you have heaps of mats). Left of the most prominent overhang, below a corner crack- head up into the corner. head out and over the left side boulder to the top.

Not here or retroed?

The prominent right-leaning crack-line with an orange right wall. 15m down L of the original (corner) start of Gaia.

1. 35m (crux). The crack.

2. 50m. The slab on the left.

Start up Maharajah LHV start, reach left as for Ravi Variant. L past BR to the arete, then up the right side of the flake. Slab past 2BRs to the belay on Maharajah. Finish as for Castles in the Sand to summit chains. Abseil 25moff the back.

Access via a 75-80m abseil from chains. This rap station is located beside a huge gum tree that leans out precariously (and no doubt is destined to fall into the depths of the gorge under its own weight), on the rim of the gorge around about 50m (?) around northward and down a little from the north edge of the top of the Queen Victoria buttress. This rap station can be used to access Wall to Wall, Send out for More Pizza, Gaia, White Knuckle Days and Statute of Limitations. The abseil can be broken into two, utilising the double bolt belay at the top of the first pitch of Gaia and WKD. There is now a bolted, independent, direct start to the original version of Gaia, as well as an extra bolt in the top of the first pitch, and two bolts in the top pitch. This new reincarnation provides a more even, sustained, but less death-defying route than the original. The first pitch, in particular, is one to savour. Start at the double hangers, mid-way between the original start of Gaia (in the corner) and White Knuckle Days.

1. 40m. 24. Up via 3 fixed hangers to the steepening. Continue on via 3 more fixed hangers through the crux section, then a high carrot and a more recently added higher fixed hanger to reach the new belay station up right on a blunt nose (the original belay was a further 8m or so up at the base of a short overhanging corner).

2. 35m. 21. Up to and up the overhanging corner crack (takes a few medium cams), then straight up via two bolt-protected bulges to the rap chains.

Carrots. Grade only a rumour. Looks good.

Start: Behind bushy tree on north-facing orange wall.

Start from a small ledge (single bolt plus wire belay) below the small corner just up L from the original (corner) start of Gaia. Approach via a 50m abseil from gums close to the edge at the top of the buttress. Alternatively, abseil as per the access to Gaia.

1. 25m (crux). Up the elegant thin corner then the little roof to tea-tree.

2. 25m. Up with increasing ease.

Start: Unknown. Piton and bolt runners and large cams?

1. Slab.

2. Seam.

Start a few meters right of LFM, up the rib, then follow the diagonal crack up for ~6m, then up the vertical crack to finish

Turn left at bottom of stairs on walk in (i.e. towards Shipley Upper), there's a small overhang 30m along here before the waterfall. This route was deemed inappropriate and was erased by removing all bolts.

Access as for Gaia and White Knuckle Days or by using a sizeable gumtree a little further northward along the gorge rim. Best to leave an abseil rope in place in case retreat needs to be sounded. Start approx 20m right of Gaia (and a few metres around right from the start of White Knuckle days) at a 2BB.

1. 15m (21). Step right into thin crack and up to the belay ledge.

2. 35m (24). Out L (BR), then slab up following 4 more BRs, tending slightly rightward on some beautiful, if disconcertingly polished, rock. Belay off abseil tree.

R of TCFBS via 7 carrots

Only fun if you enjoy cranking off tiny holds. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB! From tree (and not using it!) up with extremely thin, long moves past RB, some gear to second RB. Climb straight up R side of second RB, gear to top.

Location of route not known - it is not between Frou Frou and The Son and Heir. This is not recorded in the old SRC guidebook where all the other routes were described.

Climbs the Redbacks wall to the left of that route; the 'hole' 2/3 the way up the wall is a landmark. Up past a few bolts.

Trad start to FH then a few carrots to chains. The topos show a completely independent line from the ground. However this line appears to require that you hang yourself off, put your gear in, and position your belayer beneath, some very suspicious large booming roof flakes. And its dirty. If you'd rather not take that risk than a good alternative at about the same grade is to climb Sickle for 5m then heel hook R along the lip of the main roof a few metres below the FH, and turn the lip using the short fingercrack. The face climbing from the lip of the roof to the anchor is great, on some of the most solid rock at the crag.