Routes in Australia for selected grade

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

4. 30m 5 head on up

The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.

1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident).

2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder.

3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.

Delightful. Start just right of a detached little pinnacle and just left of Edgell Gerber at a shallow corner.

The corner crack 4m left of Flake Crack.

1. 15m Up corner to chains.

2. 15m Left up corner and gully.

3. 22m Walk left, up into chimney.

The deep crack.

Start 20m right of Melville's Cave.

Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.

1. 43m (8) Up the buttress to a small ledge. Continue on steeper rock to another small ledge. Step off right side of ledge (straight up is grade 14) then up to a ledge below a short gully.

2. 15m (4) Up the gully to a large ledge. Continue up to the next ledge, the Tennis Court.

3. 20m (8) From the top of the pedestal, climb the tricky weakness left of the red overhang. Belay on the first good ledge.

4. 23m (7) Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap then up to summit.

A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere. Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.

1. 32m (4) Climb diagonally rightwards up the easy wall to large ledge.

2. 13m (6) Scramble 5 metres to next ledge and take vague corner-weakness 4 metres right of arete to summit. This summit has also been reached by the wall on the opposite side of the block, from within the chimney; much harder and not recommended.

3. 15m (6) Downclimb from summit, step across chimney then up wall to main summit.

Up the crack.

Start: Start under the L crack on the main face.

Start on the slab 5m L of 'Arete'.

Follow the line of 8 RBs to the DBB. An excellent beginner sport lead with easy but fun climbing and plenty of bolts to get those clips dialled.

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'.

Start 1m R of 'Play School', 1m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'.

Retrobolted so now a nice easy beginner lead. 5 RBs to DBB.

The easiest climb on the cliff. Wander up the line of least resistance to the right of RAA. It's also a good way to get to Plume Ledge quickly.

The first route at Mt Piddington, and still one of the best. If you're at this end of the crag at the end of the day this route is a nice way to significantly shorten the walk out. It's not too hard to climb it with packs on, then do a 200m bush bash due east along the ridge to the firetrail. Start 17m left of 'Infidel' opposite the Cottage Boulder. It is the left most route on the slab. Now has a million bolts which didn't originally exist.

1. 30m Up slab to bulge, hand traverse around to the right and up to belay with an eclectic assortment of hardware.

2. Up slab, veering left and up. Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together if you have double ropes, or even on a single rope if you think about which bolts to skip and which to extend.

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start 0.5m R of OC.

Crack to horizontal break, then go 2m right and up crack.

Start: 1m left of small cave on the grey wall just left of the descent gully.

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.

The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed.

Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree.

2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge.

3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10

4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.

1. 12m (7) To ledge then R up ramp.

2. 23m (7) L, over crux bulge and into chimney to finish.

The crack with a hard start.

Start at the right side of the grey wall.

The line starting just left of Charity

The chimney.

Start: Just R of 'Cartridge Arete'.

A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds.

Right hand route on Kid's Slab

(Training Ring to Right).

Start 2m L of 'Mantlit'.

Mini sport lead, perfect for first time leaders. 3 RBs & DBB.

Layback for 5m then step right into crack.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Cobb & Co'.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder).

The left of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

Not as good as first thought but not bad and shady for most of the day. Usually done in one pitch.

Start below the right of two obvious weaknesses right of Acapulco Gold.

1. 12m (7) Follow line to good ledge on right.

2. 18m (7) Step left then up line. When gully is reached, either climb easy wall on right or traverse easily right on narrow ledge to rap anchor of Serpent.

Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road.

Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang.

Pitch lengths are definitely inflated

Start: Up chimney just right of 'Sox Glo' and 'Poxbow'

1. 33m (6) The chimney is climbed all the way to the ledge.

2. 25m (6) The steep little 6m wall on the L to a large ledge. Move L and continue up the clean arete/rib to a small airy belay stance.

3. 32m (6) Traverse L (tending slightly down) past the chimney and around the exposed arete. Step across the chimney and continue to a roomy ledge and cave.

4. 20m (6) Crux pitch! Wander up through the easy cave/chimney to exit conveniently in the descent gully behind the Omega Block. Note the original 30m last pitch, reversed the last 4m of the traverse and climbed up the juggy groove to the top. This is very mossy and doesnt add much to the route.

A good climb for beginners to follow as protection is limited. Start 2 metres left of V-corner of Pete Made Us Do It.

Do Jihad and Rain of Terror, put your walking shoes back on, then:

1. Walk to the other (southeast) end of the Wedding Cake to 2 bolt anchor.

2. Abseil 35m down the southwest side (down the grade 16 Wedding Cake Return Pitch) to bushy area.

3. Walk NORTHWEST for 30-40m, down a few metres, then back southeast for ~150m (exposed at times) to where the track ends in a little alcove below some 6m high cracks/corners. Squeeze through the slot to rubble ledge and big spike.

4. 55m The Stegosaurus Pitch! Great fun. Place minimal pro on this to avoid drag, your primarily protecting the second, its mostly scrambling. Up the LH corner or the crack just R (same grade) onto the ridge. Then head southeast over the lumps, up 5m chimney onto the biggest lump, then chimney 8m down off it (due to the amount of rope out, both leader and second are basically soloing these chimneys), and walk/scramble another 15m southeast to 2 bolt rap anchor atop the next chimney.

5. 38m abseil/walk diagonally down the ramps above the seal colony to the base of Pole Dancer. You can place 1 or 2 cams (#1-3 range) as directionals for both abseilers, and leave them there as lead pro for the return scramble. This is the only spot where a single 70m rope is not quite enough but it's a good ledge by the time you run out of rope so no problem if you are ready to go off the ends. You are now at the base of the Pole Dancer first pitch chimney.

Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward.

Up the wide crack to halfway then up the juggy R arete to the top.

Start: Start at the wide crack just R of 666.

Marked 'WL'. The beginners classic! Up the juggy face crack with good pro to ledge. The top 4m tier is spectacularly pocketed, but poorly protected.

Just Right of the 16, #4 route Left of the overhang. Up on easy jugs to anchors.

The enjoyable crack and groove starting below and four metres left of 'Penny'.

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on the 'Main Wall'. Rap/belay from ring #6.

Climbing 101. Possibly grade 6.

Poo is very serious issue which challenges ongoing access to popular climbing areas such as Andromeda, Slider, or Coolum.

Either don't poop at the crag, carry it out, or take the time to learn proper bush toileting procedures. Don't act surprised when you see crags being closed.

Last climb on Legends Wall: easy up to first bolt, over the bulge, then easy to chains.

Not a bad lead with enough gear in horizontal breaks (take cams) and interesting moves in between.

Worth the effort to see the view. Start on the left side of the easy-angle slab. Take the short slab and crack to the right arete, then up this to the top. There is now a triple bolt belay/rap station.

"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.

1. 30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle.

2. 10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face.

3. 50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle.

4. 50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Mini bolted slab in slot at left end of wall. The first pitch is good for kids.

1. 6m (6) Up boulder, step R to DRBB.

2. 18m (8) Up following closely spaced bolts.

The first bolt is situated at chest height when standing on the ground so it can be clipped before you set foot on the route. The second bolt can be clipped one move from the ground. The anchors are set for easy clipping and cleaning.

Long and sustained at the grade. Amazingly neglected considering the hordes which swamp the much smaller 'Back Wall' only 20m away.

Start: Start 3-4m L of SiS beneath the deep black corner/crack up high.

Next route left of: Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend. Easy moves up to the first RB, crux is passing this, then easy moves up slab to chains.

The obvious arete. Not well protected.

The right of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

Marked 'CG'. Similar climbing to Cee Gee Also, but slightly harder.

Start: Ledge to the right of the descent ladder remnants.

Easy chimney immediately right of "Cranky Babies", finishing up right wall.

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

A great beginner's lead. Climb the blocks to a ledge. Up the twin cracks to the next ledge. Easily up to the tree.

Pleasant access route to the big terrace.

Blunt, slabby arete starting 10 metres right of Beau Geste.

The access pitch for the next 5 climbs. Start from bunch of small trees. The obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a rap chain.

The scrubby corner.

Start: 3m right of SI.

1. 24m (8) Corner, face to ledge under overhang.

2. 35m (8) Corner, right, back to corner and up.

Gum tree and bollard for anchors.

Fun but short.

Start: About 15m west of "Mookie" is a 15m high pillar that's hard to miss. This route climbs the south (easiest) side. Appears to be a direct version of 'Moomba'.

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

Stand start below the so-called crack-like thingy.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth V-groove left of 'Crawdad'

An easy-featured grey slab. Start: As for MMC, up and immediately veer R, following slab & 4 BR, up to DRLO.

BE & B Cameron 9/8/15

Stand start with good edges, climb the face.

6m R of boulder against cliff (forming step). 1. 16m (8) Up and left passing BR to get to big flake. Follow flake to DRB and lower off or continue the next pitches. 2. 26m (11) Up and L to follow flakes to stance. 3. 24m (6) Straight up to the top.

Around the right side of the boulder facing uphill.

Easy stand start. SDS goes at about V3.

6m right of G. Up easy slab. 2BRs to double BB.

Worth the walk if you're not too hung-over, with amazing scoopy rock on the latter pitches. Start as for 'Prohibition'.

1. 25m - Climb the left slanting crack and ramp as for 'Prohibition', but continue along the ramp until it levels off.

2. 30m - Up the amazing scoopy/blocky white slabby rock above to a ledge and abseil anchors (you can finish here - walk right).

3. 30m - Up the easy slab behind the belay.

On the mossy boulder opposite Petit Miam.

The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab.

Start: Arête right of F&J.

The wall between 'Cartridge Arete' and 'Cartridge Chimney'.

1m left of Gog.

An easy classic. Take wide gear for the top pitch.

1. 12m (8) Up chimney 1m left of Gog to bushy ledge. Fun climbing with good pro.

2. 24m (8) Corner then wall and ramp on right. Alternatively, finish as for Cider in bottleneck chimney above.

Beautiful, easy face.

Start: Start 2m R of FoF.

Stand start with good holds, climb the wide arete.

Sit start and climb the arete on its right side.

Stand start pulling up on horizontal fault and follow the line to the top out.

Unlikely to be a FA, but hey, I'll claim it until someone else does.

This climb has been upgraded from 8 to 9 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Start 1 m right. Up slab to ledges and top out. Anchor from baluster 8.

Another ancient ramble. Start as for Pad Nag, but trend right up past piton and onto rib.

Corner to roof then out to slab. Single ring bolt on slab to cater for significant run out. Tree belay/rap at top.

Start: Low angled corner to roofs.

Stand start and climb the short face into the runnel.

Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right.

Up the corner using medium to large gear. Stainless carrot belay 3m back from top.

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.