Ascents in United States of America by Jack Seawright having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Shane hoofed up on lead and set a toppy for all us plebs to go rip the skin off our fingers (on this and digital readout). Would be amazing to climb this well! doesnt feel like you need to be super strong, just a really good creek climber. The roof goes surprisingly easy (i still stuffed it). Despite my floundering, it felt cool being on the same piece of rock as in the stanhope arcteryx vid ive watched a million times.

'The route sport climbers do to tell everyone they climb 12- trad' is the description on mountain project. And this is about the only thing i sent out here.. Im a filthy sport bro, revoke my trad card, give away my cams and toprope-equip my crack pitches so i can layback them.

Despite paranoia that the wet rock police would come slash our tyres in the carpark, tony and i got up for sunrise brekky and tore into the park for the '1 to 3 hour' approach - 2:50 and we were booking it.. MP sandbaggers. We took tonys new tag line up apparently to tag a single jumper, but it came in handy on the way down when the estimated 72m rope turned out to be sub-70 and we had to beaner-block to get down. An approach first for both of us when tonys jacket loosely perched on top of his pack on the walkout got poached by a tree branch without him realizing till 15 min down the trail! It makes sense to ramble on about the approach cos it was half the day and featured some fun rock hopping in a beautiful canyon but being lyn hills favourite rock climb carries expectation and this route lived up to it. Absolute moves the whole way and the fang roof on p2 is insane. Im quite surprised and stoked to come away with the all onsight/clean despite 3 holds disintegrating on the final pitch and a bunch of other parts that could have gone either way. Spirits were high the whole day despite some backpacks being gnawed into by squirrels and a pack of HEB cookies was demolished dangerously quickly back at hotel contagion.

Amazing flake systems out here. Granites definitely grippier up here without the glacier polish but the brain is still in yosemite mode and resulted in me desperately ring locking a 5.8 fairly-obviously-layback crack. Got rained out in the arvo and found a pub to knock some pool balls around with the euros. Would really like to do more climbing here and stoked on how the pacific northwest climbing is feeling coming into squamish season!

Probably the best route tony antoine and i lapped at wall street - the crag where you can belay out your car window. Makes kps approach seem like frenchmans cap. A nice face climbing break from the endless expanse of splitters outside moab

Abit shorter than the bridger jacks but definitely a more epic view on top and definitely more lights out climbing on average. The roof on the second mega pitch has the exposure of disco non stop party. Never shit myself harder on perfect hands. Chimney up high almost involved a harness removal, luckily ive gone jusssst easy enough on the rip off oreos back at camp.

Rectory castleton link day! Last day climbing with antoine. 2 towers 1 day. Fine jade up the rectory and north face of castleton. Great day

Thin hand traverse jugs with toe hook and swing! Most aesthetic crack ive ever seen. Antoine took some good gear whips. We convinced a californian kid there for tr solo to lead it as his first 11 on gear and it snowed on him. Still went to the chains, legend. Found an unguidebooked finger crack around the back of the area that climbed super nicely. Lucky we didnt multi today as planned, its axe weather out there.

Magnificent rap in and views from the sloping ledge. Each of us had 2 punts. Not as splitter as the bridge crack in bowen hills but alright for rock i guess. Heart broken by the rude boulder at the end but with a bit of rope help the roof turn was very cool. Nice sesh

Arrived in the carpark and the third person i asked turned out to be alex, my climbing partner for the day from utah (splitterland). We trooped up to the wall after brekky in the carpark, i irresponsibly shed a layer to climb and we were off. Nice easy crack/scramble for about 130m. We had rockpaperscissorsd at the bottom to decide who leads odds and i thought id won seconding the 5.12 tips corner but mountain project combined the commonly linked first 2 pitches in the description so with grim acceptance, i staggered up to the interminable .2 crack. The clean run ended early in the game. A few pieces further, i climbed above the gear into a very tenuous position, pulled a cam off my harness, had a footslip and threw the cam off the cliff to grab a crimp and avoid the 3m whipper onto a bomber cam.. coincidentally the very night before, johnny sullivan had recounted this very act from the nico favresse carbondale shortbus video. Maybe he put the idea in my head. I took the whip. Alex was caught between "nice push dude" and "did you just lob my cam off pitch 4 of a multi?". Luckily it landed on the pitch 1 belay ledge and we could easily retrieve it on the rap down. I freed all the moves but doing the pitch as a send would be pump city.. especially as a committed layback (as the description hints). Whoever climbs it that way needs to contact me explaining how they get their fingers through the metal detector at the airport! Alex reckoned he laybacked some of it so maybe i could have asked him. Alex then made the best of a spooky run out 5.10 pitch after recommending out of my arse that we skimp on fist sizes. Then i climbed the 7m slot pitch, setting him up with the creek-style '5.10+' final pitch that turned out to be solid 11c. His difficulties on lead were not felt by me, basking on the ledge after the notch put us on the sunny west face. Hard catches only! We rapped down, packed the bags and rockhopped the pine creek bed back to the cars. A stellar day out on some of the finest red rocks in red rock

Wicked adventure and stellar first desert tower. A real alpine touch at the end, i started climbing the wrong pillar and had to get my knee stuck to pull my phone out and access mountain project to discover i needed the other pillar. Accidentally booted antoines new 3 into the back of a chimney. Expensive kick that was.

Very memorable route. Super improbable to be able to step around the arete into a 110m crack leadi g straight to the top of red arch! The offwidth felt surprisingly good.. i might think about not aiding all of them. Wasnt as much sand on this route for tony to complain about but the weather forecasters provided an excuse. Clear skies they said, we certainly picked up the pace on the last pitch when thunder started cracking over our heads. We lost all that time and more on the rap by getting the tag line hopelessly tangled in the climbing rope on all the biner block raps. We both tried to tell ourselves the tag line was necessary but some retrobolted anchors meant it could have been done with a single 70. Fook.

Great time lashing out at this mega adventure corner with phil. Despite very different methods both of us found ourselves 90% up all clean. He built a nest and punched to the top for the send. I also built a nest.. add #1 to the list of sizes i cant climb at the creek. Scarface is the superior crag. I had 2 burns at comic relief (project!?); a series of tiered finger crack rooflets going at 5.12-. Fell 4 moves off the victory hand pod on the OS and 1 move off on burn 2 for a good clean gear whipper. Agonizingly close to the first legitimate 12er of the trip. Music and wax box campfire at camp was lovely if not a little hazardous with a concurrent wind storm.

Best creek pitch so far. No .75s which was very welcome. Just pinkys down and .3s up to a roof. Then just when your struggling.. INSERTA KNEEBAR. Forget about the predicament you reside in and let your quad skin deal with it. Then pull into double sidepull and reach 7 metres above your head to the final fingerlock. I wussed out of doing this move because i was already 2cm above 2 bomber cams. Very brave. Rad duality was a delightful hands journey and the onslot, a surprisingly fun roof boulder followed by awkward v-groove. Great day avoiding chalk at supercrack buttress

So god damn good. Came out with mattias early to beat the sun, jugged straight up skipping the most exhausting warm up pitch in existence. Mattias jumped on and lashed up 6 pieces then came down, i tried to rose-point it through half-preplaced gear. Pretty solid crack but had a footslip and a good whip at half height which probably is the crux depending on style preference. The top is intreguing in the v groove and the victory jug feels so amazing to caress that itll make your hang dog feel like a long term project red point. Stoked to get out and get some fingers stuck on this pitch that consensus says is the best 5.11 in the valley. At this point im on board with it

Avalanche wreckage approach was abit choss but the route was awesome. Very stoked to pull off 'the incinerator' first crux pitch at 11c (maybe a little forgiving at the grade but as always ill take it). Worth missing the arrow spire highline for i think. Maybe. Well never know.

One of the most identifiable pieces of rock (or mud?) in the world and a great experience being up on the diving board. Pretty good level of strenuousness for 2 pretty cooked individuals. Glad antoine suggested this one

Steak-salad-day. 'If you cant climb the good-looking 1000m peak, climb its chossier sister'. Id heard about the training methods for this route involving garage door sitting and asphalt parking lot crawling but really henry and i should have put more time into practising going down waterslides at wet and wild without sliding. We got the day started at 5:30 in the carpark to avoid pony-boy's unplanned summit shiver-bivvy scenario. An added incentive was the thunderstorms predicted for the afternoon. But it doesnt rain in yosemite so we werent worried. Got to 'the narrows' at about 2:30, just as the thunderstorm rolled in on schedule. I struggled through with much swearing, henry got the bag stuck on second. I tied him off and rapped back into the chimney to encourage him to ditch the bag! Lucky he had slightly better sense to just take stuff out of the bag till it fit through the chimney. Squeeze struggling while feeling the thunder rattling the rock is a slightly stressful but pretty cool experience. The storm cleared and we went through to the top via an incorrect but very fun series of sporty flake pitches out left, got some photos and then saw another storm inbound. A double header! Tailed it down the gully at 7:15. The rain belted us as we raced down choss, followed by slippery slab waterfalls, henry hurriedly navigating. One particularly sketchy downclimb was bailed off and an impromptu rap down the slabs cost us a couple of slings but we were granted our continued survival in exchange. This journey was being viewed by all our friends through binos in the comfort of camp 4 so were glad we could provide some wet-weather entertainment. After another hour of glissading through broken trees and avoiding unannounced cliffs and waterfalls, we stumbled across a tourist track at 10:15. The car was parked for 16:45. I cant imagine what henry and i will go through on our second climb together. We both deserved the bin pancakes i promised for someone climbing stalathe with me on my facebook ad.

Great adventure route. Pick your own line up 'the wall of knobs'. Many knobs to choose from but only 2 of them clipped the chains at the top of pat and jack pillar. Tony has rediscovered himself as a chimney climber - positively brimming with joy as he back pressed the final chute to the summit. I expect to have to talk him out of free soloing steck salathe.

The plan: have an easy multi day in vegas on the way to yosemite. Reality: Get to the base after 10, already 4 parties on it. I choof up the variant start called the gobbler. Thought it was called that after someones college nickname but turns out a rope gobbling crack meant i had to climb 5m with the rope in my teeth and then tony had to self belay below it. Eventually joined on to the route, bailed after p5 cos we were still at the back of the train and it got too windy even after borrowing 2 different jackets off people at belay stations. All was not lost, tony found a perfect piss chimney at p3. We saved a partys stuck rope on the way down and walked out heroes! Heroes that bailed off a mostly bolted 5.10a that gets done 15 times a day. It did give us time to go look at the strip afterwards and have a cheeky slap on the pokes though.

Set off for this one at 4pm with gen on what was supposed to be my rest day. I was imagining sporty cracks but in reality yosemite multis are rarely just sporty cracks and this one turned out to be 90% v-groove thrash. There were some doubtful moments as the sunline travelled slowly up the hill behind us and light faded 2 pitches from the top but i got to have a lash at the top in bright enough conditions (i wish i could use that as an excuse for not sending). Heartbreaker flared finger jam slip 4m under the chains. Gens answers as to why i was rushing us so much lower down were revealed at the top: i forgot my headtorch. She lent me her phone torch and we rapped to the ground and ate a depressing 10pm dinner in camp 4.5 parking lot.

Day 1 yosemite (real day 1 after dylan and i hoofed up some 9s near camp yesterday. Serenity sons link up was pretty wild climbing. Quite like angels in buffalo except with a whole pitch manufactured with pin scars. How very american.

I - Jack Seawright - solemnly offer my deepest apologies for displaying some of the most pathetic climbing this king line has seen in its proud 50 year history. I had convinced myself probably too easily that i had what it took to climb astroman while tony, fresh off a double rest day, was rearing to go. We passed some young hoofas on the trail that offered to let us go first. We accepted a little too quickly to be considered polite and then ratted behind their backs about how their mums would be angry at them for being late to school pickup. The tables swiftly turned as they onsighted everything behind us and patiently waited at the belay stations as we racked up the following highlight reel: pitch 2: tony fails to locate totem placement off the deck for boulder problem, rips poorly placed dragonfly out of pin scar with hand, then aids original choss corner. I accidentally king swing across slab above on second after sweating off crimp. Pitch 3 enduro corner: I sloffed up the pitch with 20 rests on lead after telling everyone i planned to onsight the pitch. Pitch 5: I bailed off the last section of the pitch due to what i still consider a pretty serious unprotected 5.10 face sequence, and we rapped down the route past the kids who certainly seemed capable enough to find their own way home after school. The only success was that we didnt have an epic on the harding slot!.. because we didnt make it that far. Back at the campsite i copped a 'free dinner and free pants, i just wish i could free astroman'. Yes, i now reuse my jokes in crag writeups.

Doesnt get better than this. 4 ultra classic grade 17s stacked on top of eachother. No boring moves, directly across from el cap. Good way to send tony off. There was still a snow pack at the base with a 6m+ shrund to step over onto the climb which tony led so i was bracing for it being a really bad way to send him off.

12.5hrs car to car. Pretty glad we planned it this time and started at 530 instead of 9! 3 person party with audrey and ariel. Solid nav efforts from audrey kept me from running after the wrong approach trail cairns like a puppy. Ariel contributed with the surprise mini fireball bottle at the top right as the clouds consumed us. Nicer climbing than i expected and good spirits only started to diminish on the hell of a hike back afterwards. Mandatory snow but slides on the east side of the dome were checked off. I booked the last 5k of the hike so i could make dinner for 25min before the girls arrived. Little did i know they were only 3min behind me! Bit of a dog act making them wait for my pasta to boil

Not what we set out to climb.. we had planned an assault on drifting. Antoines mate had told him it doesnt get done much so its probably sandbagged. We held our hope.. and.. made it to the 3rd bolt.. of the entire route. Antoine and i got sandbagged hard by this absolute mincer of a slab move that reeks of 5.12. Being north facing, there was still alot of snow and our fingers were freezing on the wall, but still. Fook. We took advantage of the approach by punching out a very alpine style ascent of olive oil with some questionable on-the-fly clove hitch simul cache adjustments. Copped a swim in the creek on the way down and a dirty bin feed disposed of by an angry mexican at a bbq house back in vegas. Ytbins.

World record! Most bails in a single day. Let me explain my rationale. The night before, tony and i had poured through the guide to decide on the ultimate 'big day'. We had decided to wake up at 530. Unbeknownst to us, this would serve perfectly to maximize bail opportunities. Tony even was ready on time in the morning. We started up royal and after i lost the route and accidentally simul climbed off route into a 10+ roof traverse, we got back on track only to see the rest of the actual route covered by a turbulent waterfall. To be fair, we had actually been told about this, but we thought it would be a 'japanese trad waterfall'. We retreated, and also let the opportunity to link into crest jewel via the hiking summit go to the wayside. 2 bails and its not even 10am. Luckily astroman goes into shade at 1030! Unluckily we forgot to borrow dylans rps. 3 bails. Drove to el cap for south by south west. Left the car, realised it faces south or south west or some combination there of and would be copping intense sun. East buttress was consulted but yosar was doing rescue training. 5 bails down, we spied the moratorium. Known for seasonal wetness on the last pitch, we were ready to climb wet 11b just to get something done. After 1 (albeit incredible and varied corner) pitch, i brought tony up. He gingerly clipped in and told me that he had shat his pants and needed to go down. We sat on this el cap standard belay ledge admiring the beautiful day that had somehow forced 6 multi pitch bails on us in the space of 9 hours. We went back to the camp 4 toilets so i could bash the mirror with my head and tony could bash the toilet with his insides.