Routes as sport in Costa Rica

Facing the wall with your back to the river and the camping hut, this is the very first route on the wall from right to left. A fun and juggy route with an extended left traverse about half way up where the climb goes directly overtop the anchors for 'Como Tu Sabe'. Due to the traverse feature of this climb, it is recommended to take extendable draws in order to reduce rope drag. End on the same anchors as 'Para Sayang'.

It seems that now there is an anchor more in line making the route a bit shorter.

This is the second route from the right. Forward leaning with great jugs, crimps and slopers, this climb provides a good starting point for beginners. The route ends at the clearly visible anchors (shared with '5 Minutes More') which also hosts a no hands, no feet sitting rest for the beginners who need a break after their introductory ascent.

Just to the right of 'Para Sayang', 5 Minutos Mas can be tricky before the first bolt as great handholds are seemingly scarce. Be patient and make it past the lower first bolt to find the jugs you have been looking for, moving slightly towards the right after the third bolt and finishing at the anchors that are shared with 'Como Tu Sabe'. With a forward leaning angle to the wall, rests are made easy and completing the route is only 5 more minutes away. A word of warning, many of the juggier holds on this route seem to be loose, so please be aware of shifting rock.

This route starts to the the right of the boulder at the base of the wall, and has its first anchor about 3 meters off the ground. A seemingly conservative climb, Para Sayang’s true colours come out when handholds run out and a sequential crux stares you in the face. Once clipped to the anchors don’t forget to turn around and take in one of the best views of the river and the surrounding farm covered valley.

Vaca Caca is a traverse route that starts to the left of ‘Para Sayang’ and travels left utilizing all the jugs until the hanging chain anchors shared with ‘Viagra’. As a lead route this climb can be confusing as it overlays other routes on the wall. Remember to keep the left after the fourth bolt and make way for the locked carabiner on the chains. This is a good route for learning to lead, warming up, or beginners to get a taste of outdoor rock climbing.

A straight forward 5.8 climb that is good for both beginners and intermediate warm-up alike. This climb is often set up as a top-rope for beginner climbers as the forward leaning angle of the wall provides a great learning experience. As a lead climb this route should not be taken lightly despite the low grade. This is because the first three bolts all have ground fall potential.

To the left of ‘Lo Tocar a Mi’ you will find ‘Verde’ and ‘No Hablar Español’. These two routes are essentially the same, except that ‘Verde’ moves to the right for one bolt while the route ‘No Hablar Espanol’ moves to the left for one bolt. The split occurs after the second bolt from the ground, and then the two routes reunite on the fourth bolt before ascending to the chain anchor which lies to the left of the large crack. The traverse route ‘Vaca Caca’ also ends on the same chain anchor. Much like ‘La Impotencia’ and ‘Pura Vida Mae’, the duel route of ‘Verde’ and ‘No Hablar Espanol’ are good routes for top-rope and for beginners.

If you are looking for a mental challenge more than a physical one, El Pichon may be the climb for you. The route starts on the same line as ‘Verde’ however instead of heading for the chains after the fourth bolt climb towards the large crack on the right. Run out the crack for about five meters and you will find yourself at a small dark roof with the next bolt in reachable distance. Climb over the roof and briefly to the right before traversing back left to the anchors.

No Hablar Espanol and ‘Verde’ begin at the same point at the base of the wall and end at the same chain anchor. Climb the easy jugs and slopers to the second bolt. Here the route splits right or left. For No Hablar Espanol, climb left for one bolt and then move back right to a bolt before finishing on the anchors. This route is commonly used as a top-rope route and is a good place for beginners to get some real rock experience.

Finishing at the lower hanging chain anchors with the green protective tarp, Pura Vida Mae shares its start and finish with ‘La Impotencia’. The only difference in the two climbs, other than the grade point difference and the number of quickdraws needed, is the direction to follow after the third bolt. For the easier of the two routes after the third bolt climb towards the right to the next bolt before moving back left and finishing on the anchors. For ‘La Impotencia’, from the third bolt head left and utilize the two bolts before moving up and right to the anchors. Pura Vida Mae is a good climb to set up a top-rope for beginners as both on and off the line are littered with good hand holds and good feet. It also has a forward leaning wall, allowing for long rests. I would not recommend this climb for someone learning to lead, as protection is not abundant.

As mentioned in the ‘Pura Vida Mae’ description, La Impotencia shares the same start and finish as ‘Pura Vida Mae’. For La Impotencia, the harder of the two climbs, ensure that you stay left after the third bolt, use the following tow bolts above, and then move back right for the chain anchor with the green tarp.

Not a route. Same climb as ‘La Impotencia’ but surpasses the anchors on the left side and continues well into the 20 m range with three precariously hanging biners on three seldom tested bolts. Anchors, however, are either not visible or nonexistent. Not recommended.

To the right of the middle of the wall is Caca Vaca. You will find that the bolts on this line are spaced a little further apart than on other climbs the same height, and as a result, less draws are needed. The climbing is crimpy with well placed resting jugs until you reach the small roof. Here you will find a heady move that may require the commitment your partner has been looking for. Pull through the roof and you are only two bolts and some friendly crimps away from the chain anchor. Well, almost. The final anchors can be a bit of a challenge to clip.

Extension of Caca Vaca.

Almost directly in the middle of the wall La Luz hosts a good mixture of jugs, crimps and sloped feet. La Luz starts off pumpy as slopers are the hold of choice, but then eases into some monstrous jugs around the middle of the climb. The wise would exploit this rest as best as possible. Don’t become cocky by the perception of easier climbing halfway and shoot for the top, most blow off in the final stretch for the anchors as handholds become smaller and jugs are replaced by pinches. If you get the leg shakes as you hurriedly apply the anchors, you are not the first, and doubtfully the last.

Very similar to ‘La Luz’, Breathe is one climb to the left and one letter grade harder. The two climbs have a number of similarities. For starters, both end on the same anchors, have sloping, pumpy starts and have decent resting spots at about half way. Also, much like ‘La Luz’, the crux of Breathe only makes itself fully apparent when you are already in the middle of it. The crux is a stretched move, so this climb may be significantly harder for shorter individuals. Once the final piece of protection has been utilized make a short and easy traverse to the right for the anchors.

To the left of the middle of the wall you will find Khadijah which hosts a technical start, pumping the ill-prepared early. Climb through the small ledges to the crux and make the undercling dependent move in the middle of the steepest section, grabbing the good ledges to follow. Another option is to pinch up the left side and by applying compression strength, although this path would most likely not be 5.12a. With the crux complete, use the randomly placed good holds to rest and reserve your energy in order to make it to the anchors. The climb will drift left and, at one point, almost overlap ‘No Soy Chino’, however do not become confused. Climb around the anchors of ‘No Soy Chino’ into the lighter coloured rock to find the jugs you have been dreaming of and the end of the route.

This climb shares its start with ‘Contigo Termina en Khadijah’. Ensure that you stay towards the right when the bolts carry into two separate lines. This occurs at the fourth bolt where you should make your way towards the right, then continue upward towards the anchors just before the large light coloured patch wall. Expect pumperific, sloping, solid 5.11 climbing until a good rest that allows you to prepare both mentally and physically for the crux to the hallelujah jug at the top.

A tall, seldom climbed route to the right of ‘Cachi Cross’, Contigo Termina en Khadijah has the same start as ‘No Soy Chino’, but continues straight up the wall while ‘No Soy Chino’ veers to the right after the fourth bolt. When ‘No Soy Chino’ breaks off to the right, climb through the overhang and continue on fair holds until the anchors.

Starts with the same start as ‘No Soy Chino’ and then cross 'Contigo Termina en Khadijah' and finishes at the anchors for ‘Khadijah’. The route continually moves to the right until the anchors of ‘No Soy Chino’ are passed and then runs out straight up to the anchors of ‘Khaddijah’. With a large run out at the top of the route and decent beta scarce, it is not surprising that this route is hardly ever lead.

Place a V6/7 boulder problem on a sloper-centric wall, reduce the foot placement options, add a touch of “¿where do I go next?” and bam! you have Cachi Cross. The early jugs on this route can be deceiving, causing some to rush, however this will most likely lead to being pumped for the big sloper move to the right of the forth bolt. Using a nylon jug in order to clip the fourth bolt is not uncommon, especially for the vertically challenged. Pull your way past the crux to consistently good holds until the anchors. The true test is keeping the lactic acid burn in your forearms under control in order to allow enough time to make it to the top of one of the tallest climbs on the wall. This often cruel climb meets its grade well and can be found directly to the right of ‘Chino Clandestino’.

To the left of ‘Cachi Cross’ and before the talus on the left, Chino Clandestino is situated directly in front of the belayers bench. This tall test piece hosts a sustained crux that has well concealed rests and brutally apparent slopers. The beginning of the crux has multiple path options: either manage the classic Cachi slopers to the right, or crimp and pinch up the middle. Once you have managed the crux, traverse slightly to the left and you will be well rewarded with a much needed resting hold, and if you are creative, a no-hands rest. From here to the top the climb is easy as pie, so long as you utilize the provided underclings. Miss the underclings and you may be finding yourself at a second crux section

Directly to the left of ‘Chino Clandestino’ and about half a meter longer, Acido y Medio provides a sustained and sometimes steep climb with good holds. Somewhat ladderish to begin, this climb rarely receives as much attention as other more technical routes. The difficulty on this route is consistent in a way that not any single move presents itself as substantially more challenging than the next, but rather that the entire route is a race before your forearms quit. A message of precaution, apparently bolts on this climb were not drilled into the rock as deep as they should have been. Therefore, if safety is a concern and you still want to give Acido y Medio a run, it is recommended that you ascent ‘Chino Clandestino’ and then traverse over to the Acido y Medio anchors in order to set up a top rope.

Much like ‘Adios Hermanos’, Buen Ray hosts its crux move close to the ground, and therefore clipping the first bolt prior to take-off is highly recommended in the name of safety. Post crux, expect ladderish yet fun climbing on the crimps, slopers, and pinches that are characteristic of climbing at Cachi. The route eases at the top with larger holds and widely available resting positions.

To the left of ‘Buen Ray’ and to the right of ‘Adios Hermanos’ at the top of the talus pile you will find Chocolate Caliente. Finish the climb at the same anchors as ‘Adios Hermanos’.

Start to the left of ‘Chocolate Caliente’ on top of the talus. With a low percentage crux move that is low to the ground, this climb provides difficulty, frustration, and insecurity that keeps many climbers at bay. If you wish to attempt the compression dependent V7 boulder problem of a crux, please strongly consider stick-clipping the first two pieces of protection for safety as the crux is dangerously low to the ground. Finish the climb at the anchors shared with ‘Cholcolate Caliente’.

A tall and proud line going almost to the top of the wall.

To the right of 'El Ojo del Tigre' and just as high. 70m rope required

Risn’ up, straight to the top, you’ll have the guts, you’ve got the glory, went the distance, just a man and his will to survive. An endurance of hard, pumpy, climbing. Only those who jog up the steps of the Capital building, train extra hard and wear sweat pants will survive. With three very separate crux areas, El Ojo del Tigre is an endurance spectacular. You will find all three of the cruxes come at each of the three major roofs on the route. The first is no more than three meters from the ground creating an early pump. The climb continues on good holds and even becomes forward leaning at the beginning of the first light coloured patch. Before the roof at the first light coloured patch of wall, clip a mentally committing bolt before approaching the second crux. Manage through the main crux, a sloper overhang move to a hard bump before you can muscle your way over the roof. Do not fret there are jugs to come, but only momentarily before you reach the larger light coloured patch of the wall and the final crux. Completely overhanging off the lip, falling off here due to pump is not uncommon and allows for sizable airtime. Once you have commanded the final crux, climb first to the right for a bolt and then up to the left for two more bolts and then the anchors at the vegetation line. It is recommended to utilize extended draws for bolts directly under each roof section as rope drag can become an issue. Also, I would recommend tying a knot in the end of your rope as to avoid losing the belay. A 70m rope just squeaks in enough length to go the distance. 70m rope required

La Cloe, ‘La Warefex’ and ‘Espartans’, were all added in late 2010 by professional Spanish climber Eduard Marin Garcia. All three routes front hard and consistent steep climbing that requires serious brawn and technique, and are reminiscent of elongated boulder problems. La Cloe is the first climb you will encounter past ‘El Ojo del Tigre’. Between La Cloe and ‘El Ojo del Tigre’ there is also a small area for learning to deal with anchors. La Cloe starts directly overhanging and then ascents up and to the left, sharing a couple of moves with ‘La Warefex’ before continuing straight up to the anchors.

With some technical movement and an almost constant overhang, La Warifex is sure to demand a truly physical effort. Begin with a couple of long moves to good holds before traversing right and working the underside of a crack that moves up a small roof section. At the top of the roof think big and go for the good hold; miss and keep your legs tucked as to avoid kicking your belayer in the head. Continue working the decent holds until you reach a more vertical section where handholds seem to disappear and big burly moves are the name of the game. Finishing La Warefex is a crowd pleaser: do or fly time. Throw to the jug and clip with pride or take flight.

At the time of writing Esparteno has yet to see an ascent and is projected to be in the 5.13d range of difficulty. If it is confirmed at this grade it will be Costa Rica’s hardest climb. Start to the left of 'La Warefex'.

Start directly to the right of the large tree root. The beginning moves of this climb are by far the hardest. If you are looking for an easier start (and a grade closer to 5.7 than 5.9), use the root to work your way up to the beginning of the crack. For a greater challenge, attempt to climb solely the face on small ledges and crimps. Continue through the good holds and high steps to follow the right side of the crack before traversing slightly to the right to a mailbox slot ledge and then directly up to a second ledge and the anchors. Movement from the first ledge to the second ledge can be a bit of a reach for shorter climbers, although, some fairly creative ways to get to the anchors have been successfully applied.

Just to the right of Piolin, and ending with the same anchors, is Diedro. Start by standing on the protruding ramp that moves up to the right towards Ron. Use the two low pockets to position yourself before traversing right onto a crimp and geston. Use some burly strength to get to the pocket just above and then clip the second bolt on the extremely deep monster pocket. From here traverse to the left using a sloper and a couple of wide stances with decent ledges before getting to the anchors shared with Piolin. In the final push for the anchors Diedro uses some of the same holds as Piolin, but to maintian the 5.10c difficulty try to stay as far to the right as possible.

Named after pioneer Costa Rican climber Ry Morrison’s brother, on the other side of the fat arête you will find Ron, which begins at the base of the right parallel cracks. Dynamically thrust two hands up and grab the obvious monster jug, and you are already at the technical crux. Get the feet high and then pull a stylish, and photo friendly, move that uses some important footwork, and a pocket left hand. Move up over the bulge and onto the more forward leaning part of the wall. For the remainder of the climb it is big holds and the right sided crack until the anchors.

El Trepon de la Zegua is a fun two-pitch climb, split in the middle by a large sloping, vegetation covered ledge. Although, hardly a true two pitch climb (a 70m rope will run the whole route), the ledge does provide for a very convenient second belay. The first pitch goes at 5.11b, while the second pitch is rated at 5.10b. Start at the large crack and follow it up to the horizontal ledge before traversing to the right, and then continue to follow the crack up the wall into pockets and ledges before the first set of anchors. Top out and set up a top belay on the large ledge before moving on to the juggier second pitch, which continues up the rock tower to the final anchors. Find the very difficult and technical crux at the third bolt. Some may say that this climb is harder than the given grade

This crazy route has a large roof that you may want to protect with an extended quickdraw. Falling on the crux just after the roof means big whippers for those who venture up this climb. Continue past the crux to the anchors shared with the second pitch of El Trepon de la Zeguea. A30m rope is just long enough, so make sure to tie a knot in the end for safety. Worse case scenario, you rap down to the first pitch anchors of El Trepon de la Zeguea, and then rap again to the ground.

This climb follows a technical crack to a big ledge. On the ledge let your arms take a well-deserved rest before finishing on fun entertaining jugs. If you don’t rest well enough on the ledge, the jugs may make you more pumped that you anticipate. At the top of the route don’t forget to turn around and take in the breath taking views of San José and the surrounding valley.

Climb the irregularly shaped orange arête.

This large slab that becomes vertical and then slightly overhung is often described as “the best face climb in CR.” Start on the large boulder with a single bolt near the top of the boulder, before climbing up over a smaller boulder and onto the face of the wall where the second bold awaits. Make technical, fun and ever interesting moves to the anchors. Like a great lover, this classic only gets better and better the more you climb it.

You have to be careful not to slip on the approach, you can generally belay from the base of the route, but it is better to anchor to the first bolt. The route starts out easy with good holds on the crevasse, there is a small roof that has a couple of jugs, the second and third bolt after the roof are the trickiest parts.

The route is quite simple except for the exit from the roof which is the crux of the route, there is a quite good left heel. It is next to the "El Trepon de la Zegua" route on the right.

This fun climb starts to the left of La Buseta. Ascend your way up to the overhanging cobra head-like rock formation before you make the high and wide crux grab. Missing the move on lead provides riders with big, clean falls. It is a good route to learn how to handle a roof section. If you are short, this route becomes much much harder, as the crux is now a dyno or a thin crack that acts as an intermediate to get you to the jug.

This route hosts a great mix of crimps, pockets, jugs and stemming. Located two routes to the left of La Buseta, start on some technical and crimpy moves that traverse slightly to the right before making headway to a horizontal crack with a rest. The mildly overhanging section of the climb provides the physical crux of the route, with a key two-finger pocket that allows for quick movement onto a more vertical face with a ledge. Most likely to be dirty, but a great resting location nonetheless, the ledge also provides a little mental confidence before you continue upward through the final section of the route where handholds become scarce and stemming and friction based moves are more likely to get you to the super shuts.

This extremely technical climb is an instant classic with it’s variety of moves, holds and climbing styles. Two climbs to the right of Chiquisa (with it’s easily identifiable overhang) La Via Lactea begins with tactful moves up the small arête to the left of the first bolt before a layback allows you to reach the two finger pocket (mono if your fingers are really large) and hoist up to the horizontal crack. Sneak a rest before using the sharp crimp to assist your attempt to the small jug. From here things really start to get fun with a gaston, a high step, a compression, and a stretch for a taxing pocket that is deceivingly comfortable. If you find yourself on a right facing block handhold, congratulations your work, for the most part, is complete. Finish the remainder of the route with everyone’s favorite type of climbing; big moves to big jugs. Just hope that the lactic acid in your arms hasn’t reached a tipping point that will see your send attempt take a downfall.

Start with the two mono pockets on an otherwise blank face and go directly up. Includes a uber hard dyno from two crimps, a bad left foot, to a sloping crimp. Complete that and then finish Aquella directly above. Good luck.

Start on the same line as Chiquisa,using a side pull and some delicate moves to climb up to the second bolt and then head right. Continue towards the roof keeping right of the overhang to a open book. Use a mixture of stemming and hidden hand and foot holds to work your way up the open book before some lovable jugs, and a final push for the anchors.

This route has a little bit of everything. Technical and delicate, yet fun climbing on crimps with seemingly perfectly placed jugs for resting. Climb to the large overhanging roof where large jugs reside. In order to avoid some serious rope drag on the sharp edge of the overhang, don’t forget your extended draw. After resting under the roof, make the bold brawny moves through the monster jugs to haul yourself on top of the overhang. Now that you are done with the fun, get down to business as hand and foot holds almost completely disappear. Hug the refrigerator sized block with all four limbs, pray for great friction, think like a boulderer, and scramble to the anchors shared with Aquella to the left.

The large features and low overhanging cover of Mr. Ed often means that the climb can be dirty. However the route still acts as a good warm up, both physically and mentally. Start climbing difficult, almost awkward moves traversing up and to the left. Rest on a large ledge before looking up and realizing that your next bolt is further away than anticipated. Grow a pair and move with confidence through the easy moves to the anchors.

The first route after you walk past Mr. Ed down a small hill towards the waterfall. Start on a large obvious jug at about arms reach above head level. Incomplete information on this route.

Start on a slightly overhanging dihedral with a layback crack across from a tree. Work the layback to a good rest, and then continue to follow the crack until a ledge where you can really rest it out, no-hands style. From the ledge use the pockets and some high feet to haul over the overhang and onto the slab before the anchors. Handholds really start to disappear as you climb over the final bolt and make for the super shuts. A word of warning, the slab at the top of the route is often very dirty after the rainy season.

Aptly named El Bejuco is easily identifiable due to the long strangler fig root that stretches from the top of the wall, all the way to the bottom of the ravine.

From left to right this is the first route on the wall. Start at the base of the left side of the wall under the large sloper ledge. Make the easy moves to mount the ledge and find the first bolt slightly above your head. Continue up the wall on decent holds until the crux at the slight overhang. Finish on the shared anchors with Verdugo.

From left to right, El Verdugo is the second route on the wall and shares the anchors with the above unknown climb. Find the crux where you would expect it, with the overhang near the anchors.

The third climb from the left, Pan Comido is a fun and crimpy route that is a good finger warm up before trying out some of the 5.11’s. Atypical for many of the routes here, the crux can be found almost directly in the center of the climb where you will meet a bit of an overhang and a somewhat burly move for Aserri’s normally delicate personality. If you can find the good hold, the crux move is piece of cake. Post crux, easy, big holds on slab are worked until the anchors up and to the right.

Find this bolted climb running slightly to the right of the larger black water mark. Start at the dislodged triangle rock at the bottom of the wall, pulling a couple of easy moves to stand on top and clip the first piece of protection. The crux of this particular climb is getting above the first bolt, and once this is accomplished you will find fun knobby climbing until a large ledge that splits the route in half. Continue to the anchors and keep a level head as you runout from the last bolt to the anchors for a little more than 5 meters.

This climb starts at the small dihedral to the right of the center of the wall. The first moves are bouldery, fun and technical, making an onsight to this route a real challenge. Once you have reached the first bolt, continue directly up and then slightly to the left for easier slab climbing and then finally the anchors shared with El Sombrero. Keep your nerves intact for the 5 meter run out between the last bolt and the anchors.

Just around the corner of the rock to the right of El Diedro is El Gerrero. This bolted climb offers a bit of variation from the other climbs on the wall. It starts with technical moves on holds other than crimps, however if you miss the crimps and knobs then all you have to do is climb on, and you will find what you have been looking for a little higher up.

At the time of writing only the top two pitches have been bolted, but plans are in the works to complete the entire length of the wall.

Using the anchors to the left when facing the edge, climbing the final pitch is easy slab with good edge like pockets with a run out about half way, and a crux finish for the anchors.

Information regarding the remainder of the pitches is needed.

Start at the base of the rock and follow easy climbing until a large ledge. Continue up the rock and balance on micro crimps through the long crux before an easy finish, with the possibility for top out. Due to the nature of the rock and the heat and cooling cycles of the sun, holds can break, and some¬times the route must be reinvented. Incomplete information on this route.

When at the top of the rock facing east, this climb is to the right (at the base of the rock facing the wall, the climb is to the left) of El Sendero de La Vida. Incomplete information on this route.

Unlike its neighbour, Positive Way moves directly up the vertical section of the spire. The route will be three pitches once it ascends the entire wall to the summit, however currently only the first pitch is bolted.