Routes as trad in Costa Rica

The left most route has no name but many people call it La Comadreja Enchilada and at the time of writing the only route with seemingly bombproof protection, is also the hardest at Rio Oro. Start to the left of the thin crack with a good three finger pocket and a home made first bolt. Make finger strength and clean footwork dependant moves up and to the right to the commercial bolt for a feeling of security, and clip while pinching with the left. With a slight overhang, from here work your way through the crux, using the thin crack for a couple of moves before climbing back towards the left and finishing on a high step with great pockets before the anchors. As with most routes on the wall, dirt and overgrowth can be a problem, especially near the rounded top of the climb.

Directly to the right of 'David Ulloa' and just to the right of the thin crack is the delicate and resolute La Virgen. Climb up the crack using the odd face hold clipping the homemade bolts along the way. Past the third and final bolt climb up and to the left using large pockets and slopers until you reach the same anchors as 'David Ulloa'. This route has yet to see a successful headpoint.

For this climb follow the kinked pen mark crack directly to the left of the easily identifiable Media Luna. At the time of writing this route does not have any top anchors and is missing a first bolt, and therefore the best thing to do is to set up a top rope on one of the trees at the top of the wall. Climb directly up the face using some well placed feet to ensure a successful attempt for the top.

Media Luna is the most apparent climb on the wall as it follows the obvious crack that is just to the left of the strangler fig tree roots. This is also the route that you will rappel in from when entering Rio Oro. Start with an easy step up onto a ledge before using a mix of layback and juggy crack moves to make your ascent. The homemade anchors at the top of this climb are a little sketchy, I would recommend creating a top rope from a tree, or if leading, topping out and then down climbing the roots. This climb can also be completed as a trad route.

This climb is just to the right of the tree roots. At this climb the wall is slightly forward leaning and therefore this route provides a good warm-up for others on the wall. At the time of writing, all the bolts on this climb are homemade and one of the two anchors is missing, which is sad as it would be good to see one of Costa Rica’s first bolted climbs retrofitted with a new set of hardware.

This scarcely bolted route is the most easterly climb on the set of freestanding boulders. Climb the face using a series of slopping crimps and slippery feet. Despite bearing only a single bolt if you are confident and courageous, you can always boulder the route at about V5.

The middle north facing climb on the dislodged boulders is La Viagara. Using solely the face of the boulder, gloriously crimp this short route to the hanging chains above. You will find the climbing to be discreet and you will be at the anchors before you know it. For a much easier version of the same route, use the large crack between the boulders in a layback style to make the ascent. Sending the route in this manner brings the grad down to 5.9.

Directly beside a tree (across from Media Luna and the strangler fig tree routes) and on the shortest boulder’s north face, La Caja de Leche uses a set of homemade bolts and chain anchors. Squeeze milk out of the box by hugging the boulder and compressing inward with all four limbs, trading movements between extremities until you reach the anchors. Due to the low height of this climb, it can easily be bouldered if you are really antsy to get on it.

On the back of La Viagara is El Pecho del Palomo, a short, dashing, classic with a vivacious crux. Start by standing on the small boulder and then follow the side pull up to a good horizontal crack. Pull on the crack to work your way onto the slopping ledge before reaching around the overhang and clipping the anchors. At the time of writing, this climb has all homemade bolts and anchors.

A Forum favorite with many climbers, La Raimunda is named after Ry Morrison, who besides being one of the first Costa Rican climbers to explore Forum, also bolted and supplied the bolts for the route. The climb is half balancing act, half pocketish-crimp fest worth the early rise or patient wait to beat out the intensely hot midday sun. Due to its position on the wall La Raimunda receives sun as early as 10:30am, which continues until about 2:30pm. As for the climbing, expect easy juggy moves until the ledge: this is where the climb really starts. After the ledge, an enjoyable no hands rest, a mix of laybacks, crimps, and a wild right handed catch to a pocket, you will work your way to the crux. If your fingers are feeling strong, then breeze through the crux to the larger holds just before the super shut anchors. If your fingers have gone on strike, don’t worry the falls are all clean.

Just to the right of La Raimunda, is La Paulina, named after Paul, who also donated the funds for the bolts and anchors. La Paulina starts off difficult as it follows a finger-sized crack before it reaches some fun movements and then eases up with large juggy cracks near the top. Stand on the boulder to clip the first bolt and then use the obvious thin crack to crank up over the lip. An extremely enjoyable climb with hard moves early and a rewarding final 5 meters. Finish at the super shuts.

Directly to the right of La Paulina, Lateralus begins slightly to the left of the large crescent shaped dislodged rock at the base of the wall. Use a couple of large angled cracks to rest during your push for the anchors.

Easy to identify thanks to a homemade bolt about 5 meters off the ground and near the center of the wall, Boca del Diablo is a combination of hard crimp moves with an evident dynamic crux for a splash of extra spicy.

Use the jug above the lip of the roof to pull onto the face and then continue on shallow pockets.

Make it over the initial lip and continue onto the face and don’t be too disappointed if you get turned down by the 5.13 dyno move that makes up the crux. Good luck.

A difficult and sustained climb in-between La Mala Vibra and Extractor. Make magic happen by getting through the roof, and then follow the thin pockets and flaring finger cracks to the top of the wall.

Easy jug haulin’ until the face where it’s down to business. Getting over the lip or trying not to pump out, choose your crux.

Start on the irregularly shaped arête to the left of Biscochelo de Fresa. Climb to the roof and pull through the easy jugs and onto the face, finishing at the bolts just below a small overhanging tree.

Use the protruding crack of Dos Cortos and the face to the left to stem all the way up to the anchors. If your legs get tired there are some pockets, ledges, and larger cracks that will allow a rest or two, but for the real experience, go the whole way. Finish at the same anchors as Dos Cortos.

Easily distinguishable by the parallel vertical running finger cracks, you will find this climb at the far right of the East Wall. The climb is a great warm-up for some of the others in the ravine. If you are familiar with jamming, and the cracks are clean, 5.9 may seem more appropriate. However the cracks are rarely clean enough to provide a feeling of security and if climbing the route without solid jamming ability, more than not, the grade of 5.10a seems appropriate. Whether you are jamming or not, climb directly up the vertical cracks to the horizontal crack and high step over the ledge for a rest. Use the cracks and good feet to get up to the slight overhang and the real challenge. As feet and hands thin out and you are forced to decide for more crack or big stretchy moves, your head will become the crux. Make some commitment and pull through the overhang to the anchors. This route is also a great route to be done on trad.

To the left of Dos Cortos you will find Pupis. A great climb for beginners who are looking for a mental challenge as the crux move requires commitment to pull off. This climb starts off by following the large crack up to a high first bolt. Continue towards the crux, where you must get a good stance to go wide with your hands and pull up onto the face. Once you have managed to go around the overhand and are on the face, use the two cracks to shimmy up to the anchors that lay slightly to the upper left of the final bolt. This route can also be done on trad.

Just around the corner to the right from Biscochuelo de Fresa, Dos Cortos, and Pupis, is another wonderful crack climb: Hexentrica. Follow the large cracks straight up to the anchors. This route can also be done on trad. Because this area is exposed to a lot of sunlight, overgrowth occurs fairly quickly.

Whack your way through the bush to the left of La Buseta and hidden in a chute you will find the sure to be overgrown and dirty KinderGrieta. An easy climb that can also act as an exit route from the ravine. Climb the large blocks to the top.

Missing bolts. Can be done on trad.

With an overhanging tree at the top of the route, La Buseta is often used as the rappel spot for a West wall entry. The climb is easily distinguishable by its vertical white watermark and it’s parallel running hand-sized cracks at the top of the route. It is also the most northern (farthest to the right, when facing the wall) route on the west wall. The large cracks on the route allow for trad climbing, although the route is bolted. Expect a tricky start up multiple finger cracks to a rest ledge before moving into the larger hand cracks and layback moves. Finish at the anchors.

With an overhanging tree at the top of the route, La Buseta is often used as the rappel spot for a West wall entry. The climb is easily distinguishable by its vertical white watermark and it’s parallel running hand-sized cracks at the top of the route. It is also the most northern (farthest to the right, when facing the wall) route on the west wall. The large cracks on the route allow for trad climbing, although the route is bolted. Expect a tricky start up multiple finger cracks to a rest ledge before moving into the larger hand cracks and layback moves. Continue climbing past the anchors to the extra bolt and then the rappelling tree if you wish to climb out of the ravine.

Being relatively far from the other climbs at Forum and hosting a physical scramble up to the uncleaned base of the climb, La Malanga, perhaps unsurprisingly, rarely sees action. If you do venture north to where the rivers meet and feel like giving it a shot, expect a decent mix of hold and crack climbing. A word of warning, the wall that La Malanga calls home can be a tad chossy; helmets are always a good idea.

La Ruta Japonesa, also known as La Aguja, is a fun 3 pitch mixed climb that starts with easy climbing with bolt protection for the first pitch and then a walking traverse second pitch before a traditional climb third pitch to the summit. The summit is equipped with anchors to allow rappelling down after the ascent. It took 3 days at the high altitude tower La Aguja” (The Needle) to rebolt the original route that was set by a Japanese man (hence the name). The rebolt team of Jorge Fuentes, Annuar Hassan, El Flaco, and Eduardo Baldioceda also put up Positive Way during their time on the mountain