Routes as trad in Québec

A nice affordable face on the left side of the Three Sisters’ Wall. Mixed route with 3 bolts, standard rack up to C4 #2, retrobolted rap/belay station.

Folow the micro crack right of the glue-ins of Bricks are Heavy, at the small roof traverse right to the ledge, climb the big left facing diedral, continu to the top vertical wall by the left and exit on the ledge at the v crack (crux). Was climbed before Überhang was bolted.

Location

Between Bricks are Heavy and Brothers in Arms, rap from trees

Protection

full trad, no anchors, micro taper nuts to C4 #5

Originaly a project in mix that was climbed in trad. The route would need bolt(s) at the end because there is no protection... Open project again!

Very thin corner/crack leading to a sloping ledge, then an overhanging hand crack. This route does not look cleaned, but there are anchors at the top.

Not sure of the grade or route history. Please update if known. The bottom crux section might be slightly easier once cleaned.

Slightly right-sloping crack up the face near the left end of the cliff.

Starts up the same crack as Jos-Bras-de-Fer, then branches right and follows bolts to the top.

Climbing up the easy stepped rock to the right of "Tatanade" to a pair of bolts. Continue up the ramp left of the bolts then around right above them. (Going directly up the face where the bolts are is at least 5.10+.)

(Guide says 4 bolts, diagram shows 3 but lowest doesn't exit; only 2 are in the rock. Anchor on tree(s).)

At the base, there was a waist-height separated flake, which is now laying flat on the ground. This has made the start far harder than it was -- probably 5.9+ or so.

Up past two bolts to a thin crack (gear section -- small gear needed, don't bother hauling anything big up this climb). Follow the crack upwards and right for a bit, to two more bolts. Anchor on tree(s).

Near the left end of the cliff, look for a pair of nearly parallel right-leaning cracks that ascend the cliff. Climb these, take the right one from about 1/2 way up the cliff to the top.

Leftwards up the small finger-crack left of "Boris" to the obvious right-leaning crack that it meets in a triangle, then continue up and right to trees.

Hard 5.8. 5.8+. 5.8+++

The obvious right-facing flake and cracks with rough rock near the right-end of the cliff.

Climb the hand to off-width crack on the left side of the cliff. 5.10b if you stick to the main crack at the top, climbing the off-width section, only 5.10a if you use the 2nd crack.

Climb the thin face to the right of the crack that is "La Saint-Georges",

There is an obvious shallow groove in the center of the cliff, with three bolts leading up to it. Traverse in to the first bolt from the left, then up the bolted section to the crack (small gear) following it up then right to the shared anchor with "La Gaillarde".

The thin crack that widens at the top, right of La Griffon.

Traverse in across the base of La Griffon, clipping its first bolt, then up the crack that starts steep and fingers and eventually both softens angle and widens to hands/big hands. Takes gear in a wide variety of sizes.

The thin bolted face between the thin crack and the large flake.

Climb the obvious huge curving flake, initially stemming, then pulling up onto the top of the flake, then proceed up the slab above to anchors.

The right half of the crack above the slab below the anchors is hollow.

At the far left (upper) end of the canyon, this large crack system starts by gently angling upwards as it traverses left, then goes to straight up, and finally curves back to the right.

THis is, also, almost never climbed, and is totally covered in moss and dead leaves. It would need at least a moderate cleaning before being climbed.

Starts out on a blocky crack that climbs up to a large ledge. From the ledge climb a left-facing corner with a crack at the back that then transitions to a right-facing corner with the same, widening as one climbs, crack at the back of it.

A few meters right of "Le Castor Bricoleur" is a steeper thinner crack, with a bolt just at the sky line. Climb up the (initially blocky), but eventually thinning down to shallow fingers crack, which disappears at the bolt, then up the friction slab above (4 bolts) to the anchors.

Looking for a set of three bolts angling up and leftwards, on an almost ramp-like area of rock. Needs gear for the upper section/finish.

Look for a pair of left-arching cracks at the top of the cliff -- this climb starts below and right of them.

Climb the blocky crack to the left-arching crack and finish up and left through them. A bit run-out at the end.

While listed as a 40m climb in the guide, and it can be climbed as such, there is a 2-bolt anchor at the end of the interesting climbing at about 28m. The crack continues from there, but it is very dirty, mossy, and treed.

Rarely dry, but good climbing when it is.

Up a wet section on bolts to blocky rock and a short crack section to (like everything else in the Grand Canyon) a slabby finish.

As if summer 2021 Bolt 3 is missing, leaving things a bit runout, and this might just be the crux.

Just right of La Cha-cha des Félins, start by the distinct off-width crack leading up to a line of bolts just right of where the crack ends. This climb is bolted except for the starting crack, which can be protected with a high stick clip. The crux is pulling the bulge about 2/3 up the climb.

Start at the same wide crack as Garantie Prolonge, but instead head up and right along rising edges and traverses, across La Vente Etiquette Rouge, Piglet, and finally turning up and slightly left to finish up the upper section of Le Sacre du Printemps.

Gear for the traverse is tricky to spot in advance, and sometimes to place, but is all there. (1 bolt borrowed from Piglet.)

Lower-off is a bit more then 30m from the high anchor.

High anchor at top is about a 32m lower.

It may be possible to step right to the anchor for Crocodile and lower-off with a 60m. (From the top anchor, a 60m rope and rope stretch may get you to the ground, depending on amount of rope stretch.)

Climb leftwards up blocky rock to a steep left-angling widish crack. Pull through, then finish with the usual Grand Canyon thin moves at the top (bolts).

Though not visible from the bottom, the climb continues up for a second pitch.

Look for some blocky rock that leads up into a blocky crack, and eventually a left-facing corner with a crack in the back. Start at the base of this.

1. 33m 5.8 Climb blocky rock to a high first piece, then up to the lovely crack in the corner. Clip one of the bolts on the anchor off to the left, and a 2nd bolt on the slab to a bolted anchor.

2. 32m 5.8 Climb up through the dirt and trees off the anchor to better rock above. Though not obvious, a number of small placements will appear, generally when needed. Clip 4 bolts along the way, and finish at a cedar at the top.

Descent: walk-off, or lower-off the cedar (may need to bring leaver-gear, no fixed anchor/gear on tree.)

Usually only the first pitch is climbed, often stopping short at the anchor to the left, before the slab. The 2nd pitch is a bit dirty, lichen-covered, with occasional smatterings of pine needles, but is good climbing after the initial really dirty bit.

Look for a right-facing corner at the top of the cliff. This climb starts below it.

Climb up easy going to a single bolt, then follow the zig-zag crack to the obvious right-facing corner in the skyline. Climb up the corner to the slab above, and anchors.

Left facing crack with good protection throughout. A bit run-out after the only bolt near the top.

Thin cracks and slab.

Climb starts up a block corner above a small ledge about a foot above the ground, then branches to an obvious crack heading up and left from the corner. When this peters out, step left to a second crack in the upper part of the climb. Follow this until it disappears (last gear) then run it out up the slab to the anchors.

Guide indicates two bolts -- but they don't exist (as of June 2014). Finish is a bit run-out above last piece.

Climb the same block corner above the small ledge that Triplets starts up, but continue up the corner and rightwards towards a shared anchor.

Climb the blocky face right of "La Motte" past one block to the shared anchor.

Not great gear.

First gear is high, but takes a few decent placements.

Climb up then right to share anchor with Aquaplanage.

Climb the groove that starts just right of (route 2) angling up and right. Clip a bolt and pull left, then up the crack to the right. Either anchor, or move left to climb the easy slab and cracks above.

Climb the crack features zig-zagging up the centre of the wall.

Climb the short face past three bolts to the cracks, follow them until they vanish; traverse right a few meters to the obvious cracks, then up.

Mixed route to the immediate left of La Gardienne. Follow bolt line to the rising traversing crack, bolted rap station at end of climb.

P1, 20M 5.4 Reach the first horizontal crack by the arete of the right facing corner and reach a basic bolt belay that is not yet equipped to rap at mid height of Glory Hole. P2, 10M 5.6 Straight up to the rap rings.

Look up the cliff (about 20m) for the obvious large arching horizontal crack/overlap. This climb starts on a line of bolts that descends from the right side of the crack, climbs up to the crack on bolts, then follows the arching crack leftwards until close to where it starts to descend, then breaks upwards to anchors.

No Sympathy and Pop Corn start up the same crack on the face that is towards the trail. Near the top of the crack, No Sympathy branches leftwards (with bolts) towards the anchor for Grenouille Toxique (which it shares.)

No Sympathy and Pop Corn start up the same crack on the face that is towards the trail. Near the top of the crack, Pop Corn branches right towards the anchors for Sonatine (which it shares).

The left-most of the beautiful splitter cracks on this face.

The blank looking slab to the right of M&M, then angles left to follow a crack towards the (shared) anchors with M&M.

2nd splitter crack from the right side of the face.

Variant on Psychokrak - when the lower crack ends, finish slightly leftwards up the face, rather than switching rightwards to a 2nd crack near the top.

Right-most splitter crack on the face.

An alternate finish to Gerard, branching right after the 3rd bolt.

Bolts shown in the MdA guide do not exist. Indicated start is, also, much harder than 5.7 -- it should naturally climb the flake and ramp right of the bulge with the bolt on it, cross over the top of this to the main crack, then up the indicated crack to anchors.

Start right of Nagasaki, and climb to the obvious crack in the first face, over top of this, angle up and rightwards along the base of the overlap, then eventually turn left and up to the anchors.

Everything after the first face is now bolted, and there is a 2-bolt anchor at the first ledge.

If you start on Nagasaki, then go right at the first ledge (past the anchors) the entire thing can now be climbed as a sport climb.

This climb is above the main cliff, and is best approached by climbing Hiroshima.

Direct finish for Morticia & Gomez -- rather than exiting leftwards.

Start from the belay at the end of the 1st pitch of "Ligne d'acier", climb the crack straight up from the belay as it curves up and right, then continuing crack system left of the arete.

This is the first deep crack along the right side of the cliff. (Name means "the other side of the arete".)

There are a couple 2nd-pitch projects for this route.

The next obvious deep crack along the right side of the cliff as you head a bit uphill.

Longer than 30m, descend by rappelling on of the other routes to the left in two stages.

The obvious wide crack that goes most directly up the center of the main face.

On the main face, there is a clear crack that goes up to a very clear right angle turn where the right side wall turns into a roof. Follow across this roof, then back right and up bolts to the top.