Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Hospital Rocks Boome Crag | |||||
V6 | ★★ Carrot Bolted Boulder Problem
Start 3m right of the corner. Light coloured wall with single carrot bolt. FA: S Bullen, 1983 | 4m, 1 | |||
The Grotto Cliffline Grotto Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Off The Rungs
A true crag classic, worth the drive. Could be V3 if you’re a rung. Sit start, left hand in good hold above head. FA: Zac Schofield | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Don't Tell the Rung Police
Same start as Off The Rungs but go directly up on the jugs | 3m | |||
VB | Even Neville could climb this
Sit or stand start doesn't make much of a difference, then straight up to top out. FA: Niggles | 3m | |||
VB | Neville could probably climb this too
Sit start is slightly harder here, then straight up to the top out. FA: Niggles | 3m | |||
V1 | Nobody puts harry in a corner
Sit start laybacking into the corner on the side pull. Straight up to a top out. FA: Niggles, 21 May | 3m | |||
V0 | Honeydukes Glacial Snowflakes
Same sit start as "Nobody puts Harry in a corner", but climbs up and to the right to top out, be careful of the flake. FA: Niggles, 21 May | 3m | |||
V1 | I hate spiders
Stand Start climbing the left face of arete, starting left hand on rail crimp and right hand on the arete. There is a sit start here for someone stronger than me. FA: Niggles | 4m | |||
V0 | Aragog hates you too
Stand Start climbing the right face of arete, then follow the arete up to top out. FA: Niggles | ||||
Open Project - the philosophers stone
Perfect line straight up the shard of rock. Way above my pay grade, I'm guessing v5+. | 3m | ||||
V5 | ★★ 97% Gympie Free
Same start as Gympie Kraft. From the flake, big move to lip, traverse left then mantle and up. | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Gympie Kraft
Sit start matched on the rail (left side of the face). Bust out right into flake and turn on your go-go-gadget arms to grab heuco further right. From here, head straight up to jugs around lip and top out. Mega classic. V7 if you’re Alec or Pat FA: Zac Schofield | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★★ The Gympie Who Shagged Me
Same start as The Gympie Who Loved Me, but keep heading left to jug and pull lip here. Top out as per Gympie Kraft. | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★★ The Gympie Who Loved Me
On right side of the face, start on the two crimps in the hueco thing. Head up and left, before moving to the right to finish up Weak And Gympie. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Weak And Gympie
Start matched on the obvious jug. Traverse left on good holds then pull the lip and top out. FA: Zac Schofield | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Float like a butterfly, sting like a tree
Stand start in the middle of the wall, left hand on small pinch and right on sloper. Go straight up and toping out in cave, to get down either downclimb or traverse out right side of cave. FA: Niggles, 21 May | 4m | |||
V1 | Belly of the bee
standing start high as you can reach on the sloper, Climb straight up and then traverse out to the right to get down. FA: Niggles | 4m | |||
V0 | Don't get stung
Stand start, climb up the right face of the arete until you hit the moss, climb out to the left and descend in the chimney (being careful of the stinging tree). FA: Niggles | 4m | |||
V0 | Was going to call it wobbly rocks, but the wobbly rocks fell out
Stand Start on the ledge, straight up to the crack below the moss covered top section. FA: Niggles | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Baloo Boink
Goes up the left face of this boulder. Sit start left hand on slimper (inside wide crack) and right hand on good side pull down low. Go up. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Cuddles With Bagheera
Low sit start with left hand on good crimp (far left) and right hand on pinch block. Head up face to eventually pull onto right side of arete for the top out. | ||||
V4 | For A Limited Time Only
Start in slopey break, just left of tree. Through conglomerate to sus jug. Up to side pull then continue up to jugs and high top out. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★ Konglomeraid
Start on low crimps, just inside cave entrance. Big move up to sloper break (conglomerate band) and follow this around the round arete and finish matched on crimp (left side of arete). | ||||
V7 | ★★ View From The Afternoon
Sit start at bottom of cave, just in front of the RHS boulder, with left hand in good slot and right hand on side pull. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse right to gain sloper jugs in large pocket. From here, head straight up, finishing with a big move around roof to a jug. Back wall is out (no dab). | ||||
V5 | ★ Shadow Puppets
Located at bottom of cave. Sit start matched on slopey jug. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse left to jug above the LHS boulder. match this and step off. | ||||
★★★ Wayang Project
Open project. Outrageous. Start up Shadow Puppets, link into View From The Afternoon, link into Konglomeraid, then finish up the face to top out. Will need a sport grade its that long! | 20m | ||||
V4 | ★ Trackside
Marked with "V6 Sit Start". Sit start on the right side of the roof. Move out the roof to top out. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Sidetrack
Sit start on the left side of the roof. Move out the roof to join in the top out of Trackside. | 3m | |||
Bomaderry Creek Lot 34 | |||||
V4 | ★★ Juicey
sit start in the scoop and head directly up vague arête | 3m | |||
V12 | Joe's Massive Dyno
Makes Joe, Joe Dynamo (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park. Consensus upgrade from V11. FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000 | 3m | |||
V6/7 | ★★ Red Hot Left
| 3m | |||
V6 | Red Hot Right
| 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Dopa Paint
| 3m | |||
★★ Project 1
| 4m | ||||
Project 1 Sit Start
| 4m | ||||
V5 | ★★ 8 Bit Hero
Start in the break under the low roof. Big move out to slopey lip, then straight up to finish. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Daddy's Daddy
Start as for 8 Bit Hero, moving right toward the hanging arete. Top at first break. FA: Matthieu REUS, 2014 | 3m | |||
Project 3
Crouch start on good sloper. Move under roof on slopers to small undercut/sidepull, massive move to roof lip, find shallow dish on face. Foot magic (toe hook maybe?) to gain other dish. Heel hook (maybe?) to gain finish. Looks in the V12+ range. Open to whoever can do it... | 3m | ||||
Bomaderry Creek Lot 33 Bouldering | |||||
V2 | ★ Jugs 2 Ring
Sit start and up on good holds to finish on the jug. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Undercuts I Think
Sit start and traverse left on the big undercut to join in to the crimps on 'Harder Than You Think'. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Harder Than You Think
Start as for 'Project 2 Nowhere'. Move right via pockets to an airy finish. Bad landing, pads and spotters recommended. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Project 2 Nowhere
Sit/crouch start and straight up via a tough move near the top. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Burnt
Stand start the ledge. Straight up via slopey crimps. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Burning Moves
Start at the ledge for Burnt. Move up to the crimps then left to the middle hold of Two Big Moves. Finish as for TBM. FA: Jack Folkes, 9 Sep 2014 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Two Big Moves
Stand start on the ledge. 2 big moves straight up. | 4m | |||
Straight up from traverse
Stand start on Slopey Traverse and head straight up via pebbles and small sidepulls. Thin. V7+ maybe? | |||||
V4 | ★★ Slopey Traverse
Stand start on the jugs. Traverse right on the slopey break. Hardest V4 in the world... Can be done either direction. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Big Red One
Stand start on the jugs. Move right to the big flake then straight up. Slopey top, tough when warm! | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ XD
Stand start and up via tough moves. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Juice
Stand start on the lowest rail. Move up and traverse left to finish as for "No Discernible Graffiti". | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ No Discernible Graffiti
Stand start and straight up. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Yellow River
Obvious juggy warm up traverse with some crimps, starting as 'Un-named V6' and right to the start of 'XD'. V2-3 or solid V6 start for 'XD'? | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★ The Unnamed
Sit start on flake move up via sharp holds down low to tough moves up top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ NSK
Sit start at rail and head right for some funky throws with big holds. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ NSK Left
Same as for 'NSK' but jump left to jug instead of up to sloper. | 4m | |||
V9 | ★★ Scrawny & Horny
LH crimp that you use to throw to the finishing jug has snapped. There is still a hold there but probably goes at a harder grade * Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!* FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | 4m | |||
V11 | ★ I Want To Be A Pumper sit
| ||||
V9 | ★★★ I Want To Be A Pumper
Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish. FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000 | 4m | |||
V10 | ★★★ I Want To Be A Gate
Links 'I Want To Be A Pumper' into the finish of 'The Crotty'. | 5m | |||
V11 | ★★ Klockwork Gate
Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’. | 4m | |||
V11 | ★★★ Klockwork Orange
More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 FA: Paul Punk Westwood, 2000 | 4m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Stargate Pumper
Links 'Stargate' into 'I Want To Be A Pumper'. FA: Chris Webb, 2004 | 5m | |||
V10 | ★★ Stargate
Harder start than the previous problem but the same big throw to finish. FA: Rob LeBreton, 2000 | 4m | |||
V10 | Crotty Pumper
Start as for ‘The Crotty’ and finish as for ‘I Want To Be A Pumper’. | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Unknown Crotty
A worthwhile line that skips the first move of The Crotty. Sit start as per Unknown, but don't go up to large jug and jug pocket (these are eliminated). Instead, from the good crimp rail, head right to join and finish up The Crotty. | 5m | |||
V9 | ★ The Crotty
Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Unknowingly Indirect
Eliminate. Start as for Unknown. From the huecos, move right through pockets to jug on The Crotty, then back up and left to jug and finish. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Indirectly Unknown
Variant to Unknown. From the huecos, move RH to pocket and LH to good edge, nice move to jug and top. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Dyno
Dyno from the 2 huecos to the jug. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Unknown
Sit start on the big jug. Move right via crimps to the rail, then big move to the huecos. Move upward to finish. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Unknown Nuggets
Start as for Unknown and finish as for Nappy Nuggets Traverse. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Nappy Nuggets Traverse
Start as for Nappy Nuggets but keep climbing right following line of holds right then back left to rejoin. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Nappy Nuggets
Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! FA: George Fieg, 2000 | 4m | |||
V11 | ★★ Bread
Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! FA: Chris Webb, 2004 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ The Seven
Sit start on big jug, move straight up via a tough jump to the hueco then to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Sexy Esky
Sit/crouch start on big undercling. Big move out left to fridge hug your way up to the pocket then usual finish at the jug. Ledge on the ground is NOT in. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V9 | Sexy Nuggets
Start at Sexy Rexy traverses right all the way to finish up Nappy Nuggets. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! FA: Pete Tosen, 2010 | 8m | |||
V7 | ★★ Problem with big moves in front of tree
Sit start on the flake. Move right via undercut to the big moves fridge hugging up to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Sexy Rexy
Sit start on the overhanging flake. Move up the good holds then out right to the hueco and finish with the big move. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | 4m | |||
V12 | Special Delivery
This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco. Slot currently broken. Much much harder now. FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | 5m | |||
Project
The lower link up into "Special Delivery". Worked for some time by CWP who thought it would be V14. | |||||
V11 | Fed Ex
Links into 'Special Delivery'. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ 56ft Back
Low sit start at the back of the roof, big moves out following the break in the roof. | 5m | |||
Roof Project
Link from the start of "56ft Back" and "Fed Ex" left along the low roof overlap and into "Pissy Missy". Looks in the range of V12-V13. | 6m | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Pissy Missy
Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish. FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | 4m | |||
Harder Project
Start of "Worm" right into "Pissy Missy". | |||||
Hard Project
Very crimpy, very hard looking project from the start of "Worm" straight up into the scoop. Old Paul Westwood project. | |||||
V13 | ★★★ Worm
Start one hand under the roof on the decent undercut and one hand with the hold on the lip, traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo". Originally started under the roof with 2 undercuts which is now broken, starting one move higher brings the grade down from the original v14. FA: Chris Webb-Parsons, 2006 | 4m | |||
V9 | ★★★ Joe, Joe Dynamo
A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter. FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ 5 Flappers
Stand start as for Corporate Takeover. Move up and right to top at decent edges. FA: Jack Folkes, 5 Apr 2015 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Corporate Takeover
Crimpy stand start, up on crimps and sharp undercut to top at flake and dirty edge (no match). FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ 60's Spiderman
Sit start at the rail, big mantle up to the sloper. Then move up to finish with a big move to the hueco. The corner is often full of cobwebs but this is well worth quickly brushing them away. FA: Jack Folkes, 23 Jul 2014 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★★ There Can Be Only One | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Highlander
Highball at far left end of Lot 33. Tops out to Lot 34. Stand start on 2 edges, move up into roof and committingly top out around the bulge. FA: Paul Westwood, 2001 | 7m | |||
V2 | ★ I'm Old Gregg
Stand start and climb the hanging arete. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 3m | |||
V0+ | ★ Familiar
Undercutting stand start right of arete, move straight up via presses and ledges. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Swing
Dyno from shallow jug left to ledge. 165cm FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Spring
Dyno from shallow jug straight up to top of ledge. Hard. 196cm FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Gregs Birth
Start low well inside the cave sitting on the rock. Birth your way out of the cave and mantle. Any rock is in. FA: Kai Buckman | 3m | |||
V3 | Fat Guys Can't Jump
Start as for Apparently They Can but instead of dynoing, head right via good crimps and finish back at the pocket. FA: Duncan Brown, 2013 | 4m |