Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Jebel Rum Massif Jebel Asad | |||||
6b | Divers-Tissement
6b or 5c A1. Descent: Rappel "Boules Brunes". FA: 1986 | 7 | |||
5c | Boules Brunes
| 7 | |||
Jebel Rum Massif Jebel el Mayeen | |||||
2 | ★★ South Ridge
From the car park follow the Jebal with lots of cairns from the south ridge all the way to the peak. Nice V2 boulder at the peak to reach the very top point. Descent: Reverse the way or better continue down the north ridge to the shoulder above the col between Wadi Es-Sid and Wadi Sbakh (Rakabat Es-sid), then go back through Sbakh. 2-3 hours. FA: D. Taylor & A. Howard, 1985 | 100m | |||
5b | Jack Daniels
Topo: Howard guidebook #5. FA: 1986 | 180m, 6 | |||
4c | Voie Laurianne
FA: 1987 | 150m | |||
3c | Scots on the Rocks
FA: 1990 | 100m | |||
Jebel Rum Massif Jebel Fara Ranayim | |||||
4c | East Ridge
Topo: Howard guidebook #10. FA: 1988 | 200m, 5 | |||
Jebel Rum Massif Vulcanics Tower | |||||
4c | ★ East Face Route
Topo: Howard guidebook #11. FA: 1988 | 300m, 9 | |||
5a | ★★ South Cracks
Topo: Howard guidebook #12. FA: 1988 | 300m, 13 | |||
5c | First Road
Topo: Howard guidebook #13. FA: 1990 | 300m, 13 | |||
Jebel Rum Massif Al Thalamiyyah | |||||
5c | Captain Morgan
Topo: Howard guidebook #18. FA: 1986 | 9 | |||
5a | Al Thalamiyyah
Topo: Howard guidebook #19. FA: 1985 | 500m | |||
Jebel Rum Massif The Dark Tower | |||||
5+ | ★★ Black Magic
1
5
2
2
3
5
4
5+
5
5
6
5+
7
5
8
4
9
3
Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book
Descent: Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch). Topos: Howard guidebook #25. FA: Tony Howard, Wilfried Colonna, di taylor, a baker, M Shaw, A Baker & Di Taylor, 1985 | 300m, 9 | |||
7a | No Teacher, No Gum, No Melihoul
1
5+
2
6a
3
5+
4
5+
5
7a
6
6a
7
5+
8
5
9
4
FA: Arnaud Guillaume & Christian Ravier, 2006 | 300m, 9 | |||
6c | Abu Rami Dans la Nuit
1
6a+
30m
2
5+
40m
3
6a+
45m
4
6b
35m
5
6a
15m
6
6c
50m
7
4
40m
FA: remi laborde & christian ravier, Dec 2014 | 260m, 6 | |||
5b | ★★ Mira Khoury
Topo: Howard guidebook #26. | 300m, 11 | |||
6c | The flying Guide
1
5
2
5
3
6c
4
5
5
6a
FA: Piene Yves Gibellr, 1995 | 150m, 5 | |||
Jebel Rum Massif Abu Maileh Tower | |||||
5c | ★★ Salim
1
3b
2
5c
3
5a
4
5b
The obvious crack in the north face of Abu Maileh Tower. Approach up Wadi S.Bach. A little harder than the guidebook grades.
Descent: 2 rappels, 50m each, down the right side of the route. 1st from big boulder on the right. 2nd from belay at the top of pitch 2. Topo: Howard guidebook #28. FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1986 | 100m, 4 | |||
Jebel Rum Massif Jebel Rum North East Domes | |||||
8a+ | Fatal Attraction
Above the Champs-Élysées ledge, they joined Ramedame (Remy-Remy, 1986) and followed this route for another six pitches (up to 6b) to the top. They placed 11 protection bolts on the new pitches and outfitted the belays with anchor bolts. Article. Video. AAC article with topo. FA: Martin Krasnansky & Jozef Kristoffy, 2014 | 420m, 6 | |||
6a - b | Ramedame
#33 | 300m | |||
6a - b | ★★★ King Hussein
#32. Crazy exit. | 5 | |||
5c | Renee Van Hasselt
#31. FA: 1986 | 300m | |||
6c | Expect no Mercy
#30. 6c or 6a A1. | 300m | |||
5b | Grey Poupon
#29 | 300m | |||
Jebel Rum Massif Jebel Rum East Dome | |||||
5 | ★★★ The Eye of Allah
1
5a
2
5a
3
5a
4
4
5
3
6
5
Timing: Allow for a long day, more if you get lost, which you probably might, more if you want to take it easy and have a break or two. If you are a super-duper mountain guide then perhaps the guide book time of 3-4 hours is achievable. Sun / Temperature: In August it was bearable with shady belays, but starting in the dark could help. Gear: Expect rope drag, Cams up to Camalot 3. Some belay stations are bolted. The abseil from the plateau (Hammads ridge) back down to the traverse is about 50m. Route
Descent. Reverse route about 6 repels to the base, back up through the siq and back up the chimney to hammads ridge. Two options exist from here. Descent alt. Alternative abseil descent, down jebel rum east face and route mumkin. Somewhat complicated and easy to make mistakes. - 50m From the eye rap diagonally back to below the start of the final pitch. - 25m, hidden. - 50m, heading more east to big ledge at the side of the big black slab - 50m, down big black slab - 50m, - 15m, traversing climbers right, don't go down the gully. - Easy walk through sand to Mumkin abseils. For more details see http://kbecan.blogspot.com/2014/02/welcome-to-jordan.html Topo: Howard guidebook #57. FA: 1984 | 400m, 6 | |||
I.B.M.
#40 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Queen of the Desert
1
6a
40m
2
6b
40m
3
7a+
35m
4
7a
25m
5
7a
35m
6
6c
50m
7
6b
40m
8
7a+
45m
9
6b
45m
10
7a
45m
11
7a+
30m
12
5c
40m
Probably the best rock on Jebel Rum. Starts some meter left of 'Towering Inferno' Topo Gear
FA: Chris Stiller, Jan Stiller & Tobias Wolf, 15 Feb 2020 FFA: Chris Stiller, Jan Stiller & Tobias Wolf, 17 Feb 2020 | 470m, 12, 89 | |||
7a | Towering Inferno
#39. Extends Inferno all the way to the summit, finishing up the final huge chimney of 'Inshallah factor'. FA: Tony Howard & Wilf Colonna, 1986 | 300m, 13 | |||
Revienta o Burila
#38 | 300m | ||||
6c | ★★ The Inshallah Factor
#37 | 450m, 15 | |||
8a | ★★★ Rock Empire
mainly sport but trad finish with raid mit the camel FA: Ondra Benes, Michal Rosecky & Tomas Sobotka | 15, 10 | |||
7a | Raid Mit The Camel
1
6a+
2
6c
3
7a
4
6c+
5
5+
6
5+
7
5+
8
4
9
6a+
10
6b+
11
6b
12
6a
Bolts in difficult sections, making the first 4 pitches sport climbing-like. Need to protect in others. FA: Claus Obrist & Hainz Cristoph, 1995 | 450m, 12 | |||
6b A2 | The Red Sea
#36 | ||||
6a - b | Atalla
#35 | ||||
6b | Aquarius
#34 | ||||
Jebel Rum Massif East Face Towers | |||||
5+ | ★ The Great Siq Route
1
5
2
5+
3
5
FA: Tony Howard & di taylor, 1988 | 120m, 3 | |||
5+ | ★ Mumkin
1
5
15m
2
5+
25m
3
5
25m
4
5+
25m
5
5
35m
Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming. P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch. P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge. P3: Follow the crack, sling belay. P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay. P5: Left leaning corner to the end. FA: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 1986 | 130m, 5 | |||
6b+ | ★★★ Flight or Fancy
A nice corner just left from Inferno. Ends with traverse right to the Inferno bolt and abseils via it. Few bolts included. | 6 | |||
6a - b | Mad Frogs and Englishman
| 4 | |||
6b | ★★★ Inferno
1
5+
2
6b
3
5
4
5
5
6a
Topos: Howard guidebook #45. First 5 pitches of "Towering Inferno" FA: Di Taylor, Wilf Colonna & Tony Howard, 1986 | 130m, 5 | |||
5c | ★★ Walk like an Egyptian
1
5c
2
5b
3
5b
Form here you can try the 6a inferno pitch or just go down on inferno stations FA: Tony Howard & Wilfried Colonna, 1986 | 100m, 4 | |||
6b | The Mummy
| ||||
6b | ★★★ Troubador
1
5
2
6b
Powerful archetypal laybackig and jamming. FA: 1986 | 2 | |||
5b | Wall of Lace
1
3b
2
3b
3
5b
4
2b
FA: 1987 | 4 | |||
6a | ★ Live and Let Die
1
3
2
4
3
5+
4
4
5
6a
| 5 | |||
5c | ★★ Goldfinger
1
4c
2
5c
3
5b
Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum. No belays are bolted. P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor. P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor. P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m). Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted FA: Wilfried Colonna & G. Claye, 1986 | 150m, 3 | |||
6b | Inshallah
1
6b
2
4c
3
6a
First 4 pitches of "The Inshallah Factor". | 4 | |||
6c+ A1 | Arthurs Hammmer
1
5b
2
6c+
3
6b+ A1
4
6b
5
6c
FA: 1992 | 5 | |||
7a | Ziggurat
1
6a
2
7a
3
7a
4
5c
FA: 1986 | 4 | |||
6b | Rainbow Warrior
1
6a
2
6b
3
5c
4
6a
First 4 pitches of "Aquarius". FA: 1986 | 4 | |||
7a | ★★★ Ride Mit Camel
Soft rock that comes out in chunks! Not great quality and SCARY we bailed after 2 pitches. | ||||
Jebel Rum Massif Hammads Domes | |||||
Hammads Route
Bedouin Route. Howard guidebook #60. Summitpost route description with satellite picture. Topo. | |||||
6b | ★★★ The Pillar of Wisdom
1
4+
2
5
3
5
4
5+
5
5
6
4
7
5+
8
4
9
4+
10
4+
11
6b
350m in Total It is possible to climb the first 5 pitches (100m) of 'Coup Par Coup' as an alternative to the final section of the approach, and then start 'The Pillar of Wisdom' Topos: Howard guidebook #65. & Verticalpirate. | 250m, 11 | |||
5+ | ★★ Coup Par Coup
1
4+
2
4
3
4
4
4
5
2
6
5
7
5
8
5+
9
5+
10
3
11
4+
12
5+
13
5
14
4
15
5
Topos: Howard guidebook #66 Graded TD: Tres Difficile/very difficult (Alpine grade) | 350m, 15 | |||
Jebel Rum Massif Wadi Shellali | |||||
6a | ★★ Le Grec
1
3
2
4c
3
6a
4
5c
5
2
6
5
7
5
8
5+
9
6a
10
5+
FA: C. Remy & Y. Remy, 1986 | 250m, 10 | |||
5b | ★★ Rum doodle
FA: Wilfried Colonna & Tony Howard | 250m, 9 | |||
Jebel Rum Massif West side | |||||
PD | ★★★ Sabbah's Route
Bedouin route up the canyon to the summit. Takes the right side of the canyon. | ||||
PD | ★★★ Thamudic route
Bedouin route up the canyon to the summit. 2000 years old. Takes the left side of the canyon. FA: Atieq Auda with J McIntosh, J Shand, Atieq Auda & J McIntosh, 1994 | ||||
PD | ★★★ Sheikh Hamdan's Route
The first recorded route in Rum, by wife and daughter of Tom Longstaff. Ascends the W side of Jebel Rum, Jordan. About 2km FA: Hamdan Amad, Sylvia Branford & Charmian Longstaff, 1952 | ||||
6a | Silver fox
finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq FA: Walter Haupolter & Albert Precht, 2006 | 250m | |||
6a+ | Pensioners Tango
finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq FA: Walter Haupolter & Albert Precht, 2006 | 250m | |||
6b | Jordan Express
finish on the shoulder of Frustration Dome, north of Sheikh Hamdan’s Siq FA: Walter Haupolter & Albert Precht, 2006 | 250m | |||
Jebel Rum Massif Abu Aina Towers | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Lionheart
1
6a
48m
2
6b+
35m
3
6a
25m
4
6a+
50m
5
6b+
50m
6
6a
40m
7
4a
30m
Direct line up the main crack system. Classic of the area, sustained climbing with scrambly finish. FA: R., M. Edwards & R. Edwards, 1987 | 280m, 8 | |||
Jebel Rum Massif | |||||
6b | Ritter der Kokosnuss
on Abu Aina Towers finished with lion heart FA: Thomas Senf & Rolf Weber, 2006 | 7 | |||
Jabel Um Ishrin Assaoud Canyon | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ Black Eagle
Mixed, Trad and Bolted with glue-ins 6a|bb+|6a|6a|6b|6a | 250m, 6 | |||
AD | ★★★ Crazy ibex
Connects all the way to Jabal Um ishreen highest peak (1753m only one meter less than Jabal Rum peak, or so says the maps). All beduine style, with one section of 3 pitches described below... Follow the rocky valley up NNW, till you reach a view toward the rest of the valley seeing the slabs facing W. You go down the gully, jumping over some beduine steps, then taking the first siq/chemeny left then climb zigzag north again till you reach the ledge, there a short 5m problem to a thread to reach the bottom of the slabs where the 3 climbing pitches are:
From there you put your rope away and enjoy the route-finding challenge all the way to the peak going SWW, crossing the canyon from the west end where it's not very deep, then going all the way south to a gully taking directly to the peak, Cairns exist here and there. Descent: Reverse the way, on the 3 pitchs one 60m rap to the middle of the 3-graded slab then carefully slide down, or reverse the 3 pitches down climbing first one from the top is possible. One more possible short rap in small Siq if you go a little deeper inside. Update July 2020: Islam Maani added a new thread, making the scary exposed traverse way less scary, inspect and replace if needed, might need a 30cm metal wire to be able to rethread. | 700m | |||
5 | Hello Kitty
1
4
2
5
On the outer east face, not in the canyon but in wadi Um Ishrin, decent walk off following cairns back into canyon. FA: Dima Reznik, Kirill Iserlis & Alex Lurye, Mar 2016 | 2 | |||
5 | Chicken Chimney
1
4
2
5
3
4
4
4
Up from the canyon to the ridge. Descent is by following the ridge and then down a gully. FA: sergey goncharov, Igor khalistunov & Alex Lurye, 2013 | 4 | |||
5+ | Backdoor
1
5
2
5+
3
5
rap descent FA: Sergey Goncharov, Igor Khalistunov & Alex Lurye, 2013 | 3 | |||
6b | Darkside of Um Ishrin
1
5+
2
5+
3
6a
4
3+
5
6b
6
3
7
5
8
a system of chimneys, Descent is by rappelling and downclimbing into the canyon. FA: Kirill Iserlis, Dima Reznik, Alex Lurye & Igor Khalistunov | 7 | |||
6c+ | Ganesha
1
5+
2
6c+
3
5
4
6c
5
5
6
obvious corner, seen to the left when reaching the highest point of the canyon. Descent is by rappelling FA: Alexander Lurye, Haggai Bonneau & Nadav Yudekovitz | 5 | |||
Jabel Um Ishrin Jebel Al Kharazeh | |||||
6a+ | Black corner
FA: W. Haupolter & A. Precht, 1988 | 350m | |||
6c | Cat fish corner
1
6a+
2
6c
3
6a
Famous for the corner crack in the second pitch, mostly finger-size. A variant of the start of Black corner, you abseil down on the route. FA: W. Colonna & co., 1992 | 100m, 3 | |||
5 | ★★ The Little Beauty
Not to be confused with "The Beauty" Approach: At the west end of Kharazeh canyon. 2 hours from rakabat east, 1.5 if you know where your going. (1 hour from the village?) From the top of Goats gully head north along a plateau. Head up the scree slope. When you reach the bottom of the face you will see an the bolted climb "the glory", scramble/climb up and round left to reach the easy but exposed ramps of the first pitch. P1: f3, ramps, un-protectable (or pointless to protect). Head up and right to the bottom of P2 and where the climb splits into scarlet o hara. P2: f5, a tricky move to get over the bulge then a walk to the base of P3 P3: f4, (30-40m) a beautiful sustained low angle corner crack which gets wider at the top. Two #3's can protect the top 1/3 of the crack. Finishing at a large thread. Descent: Possible to 60m repel to the base of P2. The guide book suggest a 40m repel and walk off to another area (un-checked). Down climb P1. | 100m, 3 | |||
6a | Scarlett O’hara
| ||||
6a | Ish Hazak
Direct line up the water-polished cracks, begin left of "Vanishing Pillar". Descent with 5 rappels. FA: Joel Etinger & Gili Tenn | ||||
Jabel Um Ishrin Jebel Nassrani | |||||
7b | SE Diedre: Warriors of the Wastelands
1
6a
2
5+
3
5+
4
7b
5
5+
6
5+
7
5+
8
5+
9
6b
ED | 450m, 9 | |||
6a | The Warrior
1
6a
50m
2
5+
20m
3
5+
20m
The first three pitches of (SE Diedre: Warriors of the Wasteland) the above route A splendid climb in its own right. | 90m, 3 | |||
6a | ★★ Hiker Road
| 500m | |||
Jabel Um Ishrin Jebal um Ejil | |||||
5b | ★★ Edge of Zenouk El Darber
| 250m | |||
5b | Salim Musa
| 200m | |||
Jabel Um Ishrin Rakabat Canyon | |||||
5b | ★★ L'apéritif
1
5b
2
5a
3
4
4
3
5
4
A great climb with a tricky hand/fingers crack and an airy second pitch. The climb twists and turns a lot. Time: About 4 hours up and down. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance. Gear: A full rack.
Descent. Walk off to the opposite side, repel to reach the valley floor where crack in the back is. | 150m, 5 | |||
TD | Alan and his Perverse Frog
face climbing to the left of PPR | ||||
6b | ★★★ The Beauty
1
5c
30m
2
6a
25m
3
5c
25m
4
6b
35m
5
5c
20m
6
4a
50m
A mega classic, the first 3 pitches are pure quality with interesting sustained climbing. Pitch 4 can be either direct (6b), or down then up the chimney (5). Needs large cams (camalot 5 or 6) for the upper offwidth pitches, double if you want to feel secure. Bolted Anchors. Upper pitches get sun earlier than lower.
Descent: Rap via the route. FA: Wilfried Colonna & alan baker, 1985 | 190m, 6 | |||
4 | ★★ Crack in the back
A big jaggedy crack of variable width and creative protection. Guide book says it's a f4 but it could feel harder if your not used to the awkward style. Time: 4 hours up and down, if you know where you're going 2 hours. Approach 30 mins to 1 hour from rakabat east entrance. Gear: Full rack.
Descent. Follow the ridge line steeply down generally staying on the right side snaking back and forth. There will be some down climbing and maybe some cairns. Eventually trending more to the right, heading for the canyon crossroad. It is possible to get down without abseiling. | 3 | |||
5 | ★★ Essence of rum
A tough first pitch and an exposed hard to protect but fairly easy 2nd pitch. Approach: From the east entrance to Rakabat canyon just after the under/over boulder scramble up the ramp to the first pitch. About 20-40 mins from rakabat east entrance. Gear: A full rack. Time: Roughly 4 hours up and down.
Decent. Using the tat on the huge blocks head down the other face into the gully. Walk down the gully a bit and find the abseil about midway in it back to the start. | 3 | |||
6b | Little gem
Single pitch corner. Probably harder than the given grade. Anchor on knots in the crack, to be verified. FA: J. Smith & A. Howard, 1992 | 35m | |||
6c+ | Soumises
Start as an older route Odeur de Rhum. Originally an artificial section (A1) in L4, can be free climbed at around 6c+. FA: V. Séger & R. Thivel, 2003 | 280m, 9 | |||
{UIAA} 5+ | Odeur de Rhum
From the left of the pillar to a bolted belay. Extension of this is the route Soumises. FA: W. Colona & B. Domenech, 1994 | ||||
{UIAA} 5+ | Saveur de Rhum
A single pitch trad route. From the right of the pillar to a bolted belay (in common with routes Odeur de Rhum / Soumises). Rock quality not very good, not recommended. FA: W. Colona & B. Domenech, 1994 | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | Rescuer's route
A single pitch route to the right of the routes Little gem and Soumises. Abseil on threads. FA: A. Howard, M. Shaw & D. Taylor, 1994 | 40m | |||
Jabel Um Ishrin Draif al Muragh | |||||
6b+ A0 | Model TV
East face. Nice line on good rock. Mentioned in this AAC article. FA: Thomas Senf & Rolf Weber, 2006 | 6 | |||
Barrah Barrah Canyon | |||||
7c | ★★ Kicia
1
6c
2
7a+
3
7c
4
6c
5
7a - b
6
7a+
Partially bolted. Opposite "Merlins Wand", 3rd canyon south of Abu Iglakhat. Named after a cat who is buried by the route. Article first ascent. Video. Topo. FA: David Kaszlikowski & Eliza Kubarska, 2008 | 130m, 6 | |||
6b | Abu Ali
FA: David Kaszlikowski & Eliza Kubarska, 2008 | 130m, 3 | |||
7c+ | Morning Sun Street
1
6a
2
7a
3
7b+
4
7b+
5
7a
6
7c
7
7c+
8
7b+
9
7c
10
4
11
5
12
6c
13
3
7a+ oblig, mainly bolted. East face of Barrah massif, canyon Rad al Beidah. Czech article first ascent. AAC article. Czech article Emontana. FA: Christian Fascendini, Matěj Svojtka, Ondřej Beneš & Ondřej Tůma, 14 Jan 2019 | 550m, 15, 12 | |||
4 | ★★ Tamer
1
3
2
2
3
4
4
3
Very easy trad intro in Rum with comfortable places to build stations. Hard to protect 3rd pitch leads to nice 4th pitch crack. | 4 | |||
6c | Ehe Auf Zeit
On Jebel Abu Judaidah. Mentioned in this AAC article. FA: Thomas Senf & Rolf Weber, 2006 | 16 | |||
6b | Sex (w)as Well
On Abu Judaidah’s North Gendarme. Mentioned in this AAC article. FA: Thomas Senf & Rolf Weber, 2006 | 6 | |||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★ Les Rumours De La Pluie
1
3
2
5+
3
5+
4
4
5
5
6
3
7
3
Descent: rappel down the route.. or maybe you can rappel down through the Yalla Shabab, but it's not obvious where is the last anchor.
Rappel 3-5: Rappel the P4-P2. We also rappelled the last easy pitch. FA: C..Remy & Y. Remy, 1986 | 250m, 7 | |||
6b+ | Left of Merlins Wand
FA: O. Didou, P. Jammeson & P. Voignier, 2006 |