Routes as trad in New Hampshire

Climb the first pitch of Pleasant Street, and from the tree, get over the lip and onto the dike on the right. Follow the not so obvious first moves toward the very obvious left slanting crack.

The first pitch (5.6 R) is a good mental test for the leader on the unprotected but beatiful slab/dike.

The second pitch (5.8) is a must-do for any crack climber, and everyone else. The well protected crack offers perfect conditions to practice jams, calf endurance and pain tolerance (tapping might be a good idea, although not necessary). Be ready to experience the polished slab that offers slippery foot placements and weird-angled hand jams before going up and on the small slab/crimps crux at the end, before enjoying the bliss of a good belay and a wonderful view at the top, while you recover from the experience!

Use the obvious corner/crack just left of Fun House to reach a ledge, and then continu on the same line as for Fun House.

The route is all stemming and jamming. Steady and steep, it is very fun and well protected (bring #1 to 4 cams if you want to climb with a peaceful mind). The crux is the end, where you have to step up and left out of the corner and mantle your way to the ledge.

Pro to 1".

1. From a small clearing with slopping blocky section which includes a small semi-detached pillar, aim for the fixed 3x bong anchor.

2. Traverse right to the bolted belay/rap anchor, the bigger horizontal crack holds gear, but it's also the best thing to use as a ramp for your feet... can be very spooky/exposed/run-out.

3. Head straight up the face, pulling the large flakes, up the corner with the tree, belay with natural pro on the ledge.

4. Go straight up from the little cave and do a balancy move to the left flake, head up the easiest path, past a 2 tree doulble ledge and up a ramp to the left up to the base of aireation buttress.

For a safer second traverse: trail a second rope or use doubles and merge pitch 2 and 3 together, only using a single rope after passing the last piece of pro at the beginning of the traverse, run this rope on the left side of the tree when climbing the chimney on pitch 3, this way, you can better protect your second across the traverse.