Routes as trad in Bluffs

Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle (which looks over Ali's and Fang Buttress). Tough crack R of arete to small roof at 4m. There's a RB on the lip and another up higher, it's wise to stick-clip the first.

As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR.

Start at the arete just R of Allez. Up to BR then into crack which takes you R around the corner.

Up the juggy wall on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to Denim Wall. Bad pro and rock but if that doesn't put you off at this grade then it's a nice summit to bag.

Start on the west face of the pinnacle. Stick clip bolt, veer R, then back L. Apparently has a fragile undercling.

Arete 2m R of Nostalgia. Straight up to the overhang's highest point. From ledge finish up juggy wall. No pro.

Up Shoadee for 4m, then traverse L to brief ramp (BR). Up middle of black wall.

Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle. Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start down R of Shoadee. Small roof to stance then L and up a grey streak just R of Shoadee.

Start at the large flake topped with sharp, broken rock, a few metres down from the start of Shoadee. The difficulties ease soon after pulling through the steepness, then trend slightly right to join the corner of Shalimar.

It seems unlikely that this route wasn't done earlier, but the only route written up in the vicinity that I can find is "Let Me Cry" (graded 25X).

Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez). Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

Start and finish as for Shalimar, but climb the R arete of the face (just L of Allez).

Start 4m L of Let Me Cry. From the ground climb up to thin R leaning and L facing flake and continue up to ledge. from this join groove which is shared with Shalimar and finish up left. Spaced wires.

"Start variant 2m right left of Let Me Cry" - whatever that means!

Start at the L end of Denim Wall.

1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up Denim for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

Sustained. Start 12m up L from the start of Denim, part way up Vixen but access via ledge. Traverse the wall to finish up See You Round.

"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.

Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981).

Start on the L side of the wall.

1. 18m (26) Steep thin cracks and roof to ledge.

2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack. Despite what you might read elsewhere this pitch is not well protected at all.

Start 1.5m R of Denim. Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to RB, diagonally R to 2nd RB, then trend L to 3rd RB (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux).

Berlin Calling (29*) is a linkup of Balance of Power into London Calling (Nathan Hoette Nov '04).

Bolts are mostly rusty (still the case as at Apr 2023) and should not be trusted. Start 6-8m R of LC. Very bouldery past the first FH then continuous past 4 more FHs, then finish off to the right where Concise Exercise finishes. Lower off.

Given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

A very tough crux down low. Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba's Cave. Bulge then crack.

Avoids the desperate crux of See You Round by starting to the right at the hole. Bridge up 5m and clip the bolt on the L. Swing L around the arete (wire and tiny cams) to a mega jug and then up and R, move back L to crack through bulge, and then R again to finish at chains. Big holds and very steep. Not really sure of the grade, just a guess. The rock and the moss on this are not of the best quality, be cautious on it!

From Ali Baba's Cave, scramble up to a ledge between Bard Buttress and Bluff Minor. You ascend the southeast face of Bluff Minor, overlooking the Pines. Epic summit vibes.

1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

2. 35m (10) Steep to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

3. 10m (6) Up to the summit. Rap off a slung boulder on the summit into the gap between Bluff Minor and Bluff Major.

Start 2m R of the north arete of Bluff Minor (this is just opposite TKO on Bluff Major). Climb up the vague weakness on crap rock with no pro.

Start on top of Bluff Minor. Take a massive leap across the chasm onto the east face of Bluff Major, with only a small sloping foothold to aim for. Now climb the arete.

Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot. Chimney out above the Keyhole towards Central Gully, then move around arete onto the south face of Bluff Minor, which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit.

Start 5m R of Bulger DS.

1. 10m (20) Roof crack then go 4m R.

2. 15m (22) Diagonally L up weakness through roof then up to ledge.

3. 17m (18) Finish up just R of the arete to the summit of Bluff Minor.

Start on the ledge R of Locksmith (which is also the start of pitch 2 of Vixen).

1. 10m (22) Crack through roof

2. 20m (22) Mantle at 5m then delicate wall.

Start just R of Rd'E, as for Vixen pitch 2.

1. 10m (22) Up face and roof as for p2 of Vixen then move L to belay.

2. 20m (22) Step L, and then up as directly as you can, about 1.5m L of pitch 2 of Rd'E.

Start above the north end of Ali Baba's cave, at the east arete of Bluff Minor. A corner and small roof, with fiddly pro.

Thin corner with a bolt 1.5m R of SF.

1m R of ML.

1. 15m (23) Bridge up a gap, then the seam with a piton.

2. 15m (21) You can either squirm up the back of the wide crack, or hand traverse the lip of the roof to the R arete and then up that.

3. 15m (22) Go R a few metres then take the fingers crack through the roof.

Start 3m R of DD. Short crack, pocket, go left, up.

Start at the anchor above Inquisition. Over the bulge on funny spike holds and onwards.

Start as for CD. Step R to the next crack, through the roof, then stay L of the arete above.

Start as for CD. Go R for 6m from the belay, up a crack then the wall R of the arete, trending R then L.

Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates Bluff Minor and Bluff Major. Climb the chimney/corner.

Start 4m R of Aristocrat. Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge.

Bolt/s and roof L of Abdul.

Chimney that can be bridged without any grim climbing. Start at the far L end of the ledge.

The R-curving crack just R of Abdul. Awkward - but you've got to get up to Blockbuster Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start 2m R of I. The face, leading into I near the top.

The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to Scorpion but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the Blockbuster Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17. Start 10m R of I.

From the start of SDS do a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire. Now R and up arete.

Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two.

A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times.

Links Scorpion Corner into Scorpion, possibly the way Hot Henry Barber did it. For full value and the full tick don't step onto the ledge at the top of Scorpion Corner but instead go through the steep roof crack on good jams to enter Scorpion after the step across.

Start as for I then the unprotected face L of Imagination's finishing crack.

Up SC for 3m then head R to bridging stance, and R again to the crack which is just L of the arete. Traverse L to the anchor above SC.

Start just R of SC. Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

A pleasant link from Flinders Lane to below Missing Link. Climb the steepish seam up the wall across right from Scorpion Corner, 3-4m right of the slimy access corner.

Climb the RH line, descend the LH line! Start on the slabby wall opposite Missing Link.

A pleasant ramble, although likely very close to or a repeat of the upper portion of Bong Tree (on Seneca Wall).

From the base of Missing Link, the first pitch starts approximately 20 metres down towards the top of Tiger Wall, not far R of DED. There is a small crack at ground level to protect the belayer from plummeting off Tiger Wall.

1. Ramble up the slab until it steepens. The line of most resistance is 14ish. Build an anchor up on top (30m, 12)

2. Continue rambling, doing a few climbing moves over the orangey lip bit. Place some gear if you desire. Build an anchor where it's no longer justifiable to call it rock climbing. (20m, 6)

The arete with minimal pro.

Start: Start L of 'Blockbuster'.

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

Straight up to bulge, step R, up to ledge. Now the small corner up the great headwall (small wires).

Start: Start as for W.

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

The major chimney R of 'Blockbuster' and L of 'Quo Vadis'.

Start: Start R of W.

Traverse out R to arete and up it past a crap BR. You can optionally step R for a rest in QV.

Start: Start as for BB.

Jenny Wren, retro bolted, with direct start up the arete. This is the usual way to do the route these days.

From halfway along the curved crack of QV, go straight up then finish L.

Start: Start as for QV.

Some tough moves off the ground past a good cam then a bolt, then follow the fantastic R-curving crack all the way.

Start: Start 4m L of S.

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

Bumped up to 2 stars now that the dangerous start has been fixed. This is a good way to approach the elegant upper sections of 'Scorpion' or 'Kama Sutra', if their overhung trench starts don't appeal.

Start: Start 2m L of S.

1. 15m (20) Tough thin crack for 5m (FH added w/ permission March 2011) then traverse R across 'Scorpion' to belay as for 'Kama Sutra' (2 rusty carrots).

2. 15m (19) Finish up the excellent second pitch of 'Kama Sutra', with 2 FHs up high.

A great adventure that you will savour for many years. There is a length of rope with a maillon on top (10/18) that you can very easily lower off, thus annulling the need for a seconder and ensuring that whoever has just witnessed your efforts has no excuse but to get on the sharp end!

Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.

Start as for Scorpion. You can also approach by traversing in from the right, from the base of Anxiety Neurosis.

1. 20m (23) Thrutch and thrash through the offwidth roof right of the Scorpion. chimney-roof. Belay at 2 rusty carrots over the lip.

2. 15m (19) A great pitch up the corner then the face past 2 FHs (new in 2010, replacing manky original carrots). You might wish to sample this pitch independently of the "delights" of the first pitch, by doing Goodbye To All That.

Start up Very Anxious then before joining Anxiety Neurosis move L under the roof and blast through the roof and up the overhanging wall above staying between Kama Sutra and AN. Finish at AN p1 loweroffs or continue up any pitch above to the summit. FA early noughties IIRC ... clarification welcome.

Sounds like it might be serious, or maybe it's just that Louise was having a go at Kim's psyche. Who knows. Start down L of AN and go straight up to join AN at it's crux. Finish at AN pitch 1 lower-offs.

Start at the first belay of AN. Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro. Finish at lower-offs above AN pitch 2.

Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of Bluff Major.

1. 15m (26) Head out left past 2 high FH's and an unnecessary, rusty carrot that's pulling out, then step down and left to arete before heading back upwards again to ledge with lower-offs.

2. 12m (24) Great pitch up the arete past a few bolts, go L at the top for the grade 24 version, or direct for the grade 26 version (listed separately here but now the accepted finish), to lower-offs on top.

Start 2-3m L of Missing Link.

1. 25m (22) Up over low roof then short flake for 6m, then traverse left above the roofs past a FH to belay as for Anxiety Neurosis. A 4 camalot is handy at the start.

2. 20m (22) Step L and climb a thin seam which is just R of pitch 2 of Kama Sutra, and just L of Holy Moses.

Follow Anticipation towards AN, as far as a ledge with a FH. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack, finishing at lower-offs above ND. Needs plenty of #3 RPs.

Up ND but instead of trending R go up then L, very bold, to lower-offs.

Eddy Mofardin has also climbed a variant, perhaps a bit further left of Roland's line, but this could do with clarification. Eddy

Start as for A. Up to the top of the flake then step down and go L, and up a seam with tough moves into a R-leaning sickle. This line actually joins Preservative Added about here, but next you need to trend L up the steep headwall to lower-offs.

An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time. Start as for ML. Pro requires care before the bolt.

The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great. Start in the middle of the West face of Bluff Major, where the ground is at it's highest point. Finish direct to chains on R side of summit boulder, or slightly easier to L side of boulder. Please don't toprope direct off the chains as they see a lot of traffic.

Ann Pauligk's bold early-mid 1970s ascent may have been the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

Start as for ML. After the initial traverse, go straight up the whole way, finishing 5m R of the capping boulder.

A pretty awesome bit of rock which sees no action since a bolt pulled out. Start 1.5m R of Missing Link and 5m L of Station to Station. The bolt has been replaced, but is within reach of a long stick clip, otherwise the first gear is a fair way off the ground.

Start 2m L of Thunder Crack. Up to strenno corner (2 FHs), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past FH, traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past FH.

Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it heads to the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts to loweroffs.

Straightens out the top section of the original by staying L of the last bolt, making it much better.

The obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of Bluff Major. Wander up the crack to the top. It’s possible to head L to the anchor of FD if you want to lower off, otherwise top out.

Start just R of Thunder Crack. Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off. The rap rings are starting to age out (as of 2023).

Up Despatched to its first traverse (2nd FH). From here, traverse R all the way to Bulger. Take heaps of RPs.

Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the major break to Bulger.

Start 4m R of, and 8m down from, D. Bring brackets. Slim groove with BR, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join Despatched. Mix of rings and carrot bolts

As for TYOLD when you get to the dispatched traverse instead of following that bast up through more steepness. (Closed project)

Start 15m down R of Thunder Crack. Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break and lower-offs. The pro is not great.

Start at the top of Unrequited. Straight up the awesome headwall past bolts, to the Despatched lower-off.

Link Required into Requited.

Start 5m R of Unrequited. Bouldery past the bolt.

Some of the bolts on the last pitch are starting to show their age.

1. 30m (23) Up Recent Theft to its bolt then step R and up runout face. Belay at stance just L of the start of Bulger P2.

2. 30m (25) Up past 3 fixed hangers to technical corner then a good rest on the R. Step back left to 4th fixed hanger, and go straight up, before going left onto the airy arete. The bit past the last bolt is the path taken by Lust in the Dust.

Not worth cluttering up this guide except to note it’s almost entirely borrowed from routes established decades earlier. See the FA notes if you want all the gory details.

Start down R from Recent Theft.

1. 30m (13) Short wall to ledge, and step R. The next section, up the peapod corner and then some face moves rightwards, is great. Easy ground leads 15m up and left to a large ledge. This pitch is actually borrowed from Lock-Up; Bulger originally started further up left, 5m R of Unrequited, and traversed in to climb the not-as-good rambly pedestal.

2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

Lust in the Lichen could be considered a more fitting name.

Climb Bulger pitch 2 for 6m then move L to rusty FH (the fourth bolt of Lust). From here go straight up, then step left to join the arête. It's tempting to traverse 3m left from the bolt on much cleaner rock but this is significantly harder than grade 20 and tends to lead you into Despatched pitch 2 rather than onto the arête.

Start 4m R of B. The steep weakness with a desperate exit.

As for The Keyhole then take the steep crack 3m L of The Keyhole. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.