Routes as trad in The Watchtower Faces

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

From left gain faint groove which slants up left

Start at very toe of buttress, a few metres right of 'Wedding Tackle'. Climb to prow to finish direct.

Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'.

Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh.

Start: Line R of 'Carnal Intent'.

Face between 'Identifying Bill Clinton' and Hillary's Dog

Start: Short line R of IBC.

At left end of low cave, line leads to small roof. Up right to finishing groove.

Line 4 metres right of 'Rumour'. Pull on to white bloc; up and left

Aesthetic thin crack 3 metres right of 'Scuttlebutt'.

Steep crack 4 metres right of 'Furphy' and left of gully.

Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'.

The obvious chimney which appears to lead directly into The Protege when viewed from near Uncle Charlie. Approach past the left end of the Furphy Wall,

Climb the chimney to the roof. Step right and bridge up the continuation.

Climb the front of the clean rib about 12m left of Wedding Tackle.

In honour of the pioneers who first explored this territory 50 years ago. Named in honour of the golden anniversary, Aphrodite’s golden apples and The Slot’s nearby ‘orange bowl’. Takes the big wall centrally, to the left of Aphrodite and The Green Singer. Much better than appearances suggest,with an unusual variety of rock and climbing, and a robust top pitch that looks pretty daunting from the ground. Start as for The Green Singer.

1. 35m Heave ho as for The Green Singer’s start, then trend leftwards up the wall to the obvious steepening after about 25m. Up this steeper section about 3m left of the deep crack (The Green Singer takes the steep wall to the right of this crack). Belay up left.

2. 30m Up rib towards alcove backed by a smooth wall. Climb flake line on the right, then juggy rib past a deep hole in the rock. Veer left and bridge up prominent deep line. Numerous belays below prominent orange headwall, with fantastic views across to the Tiptoe pinnacle.

3. 30m Up to headwall which is tackled on the left side of the orange rock. Push on with determination, until the summit overhang can be climbed centrally, at the break.

Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics.

Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).

1. 45m (14) Climb the seams straight up the middle of the smooth wall left of 'Aphrodite'. Belay on a good ledge level with the start of the second pitch.

2. 45m (12) Traverse into 'The Slot' and follow the corner line up the right wall, curving right past an orange overhang onto the front of the face. Continue up delightful smooth wall to belay about 3m below a triangular roof.

3. 20m (12) Up vague prow just right of the triangular roof.

4. 15m (12) Up a few moves then pull through overhang on front right of the summit block.

A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish.

Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.

1. 40m (9) Go up to bushes at 5 metres, step left and climb face just left of the gulch, delicate at first, until it eases to a good ledge.

2. 30m (5) Easy ground to below the orange overhangs.

3. 25m (10) Up to and under the overhang and traverse out left. Climb the overhang on large holds in an exposed position.

An old-fashioned route. Start below the chasm just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle, as for 'Aphrodite'.

1. 72m (11) A tricky wall leads to the base of the chimney. Follow the chimney pas a narrow section and then on up vegetation-filled gully to belay in the"orange bowl"

2. 28m (11) Fall across gap and climb crack in right wall past the chockstones to the top. An alternative is to carry on directly up the line, which is very narrow to start with.

Contrived. Start a bit right of 'The Slot' at foot of big chimney-corner formed by the main wall and the Tiptoe pinnacle. Up chimney to eventually join 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Follow 'Tiptoe Corner' to crack left of Next Of Kin. Pull over bulge, heading left to break. Above small roof, climb straight up face.

Follow the chimney of 'Tiptoe Corner' for 15 metres and step onto the face at the first of two diagonal cracks. Up right to below flakes, then straight up these, exiting right over roof.

Follow 'Moonlighting' for 10 metres, traverse easily left to below smooth wall. Up wall via break and bulge to pod. Up pod and around roof.

From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks.

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

4. 30m 5 head on up

Up slab to roof and through.

Start: Starts where slab is steepest just right of No Charlie.

Left edge of left wall of alcove.

Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left

Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake.

"You can lead them to free beer but you can't make them climb." Greg might have more takers if the free beer was kept until after the climbing.

Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab.

Obvious left diagonal to thin crack

Start at 'Tiptoe Ridge' DS, but take short, wide right-leading diagonal through bulge.

The short orange wall just left of Bossy Mothers eases quickly (stay R of the loose juggy line). Easier climbing then continues up the pleasant slabby grey wall above. At the top move over R to the anchors above Bossy Mothers.

Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest.

Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor.

Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit.

Scramble up right of Cruella De Ville and follow line just right of it. Move left uner overhang to easier finishing crack.

Climb middle of very small south-facing wall of subsidiary pinnacle behind dead tree.

Crack, curving left to exit on orange, north-facing wall.

Wall 1 metre right of Pearl Jam, right, up back left above Pearl Jam.

"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.

1. 30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle.

2. 10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face.

3. 50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle.

4. 50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.

The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed.

Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree.

2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge.

3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10

4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

Starts at Siren’s first belay.

1. 40m (12). Starts directly behind the dead Cypress Pine. Climb the middle of the face. (crux). At first ledge, set up belay.

2. 40m (12) Directly up, to right hand end of the Eagles Eyrie. Taking the small left facing corner and then up juggy wall to top.

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!

1. 25m (4) As for Siren

2. 35m (8) As for Siren

3. 35m (8) As for Siren

4. 50m (12) Brilliant corner as for Siren but instead of stopping at the belay at 25m, continue up and step right through the rooflet and on to more glorious corner above. Belay on major ledge. From here either walk of left or...

5. 10m (11) Walk left along the ledge to the small right-facing corner and finish up this for full value.

The left wall of the 'Siren' corner is very obvious but is not quite as good as it looks. The old bolts need replacing.

Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.

1. 35m (8) Up to and over crack and up left line in wall to juggy ground. Continue up steep wall just left of arete to incut ledge looking out over 'Left Watchtower Face'.

2. 22m (9) Climb up just left of arete to big ledge (Siren's second belay) and continue to next ledge on left a couple of metres further up.

3. 23m (5) Easy ground to ledge below headwall.

4. 30m (10) Step right, then steeply up on good holds. Up, tending slightly left.

A good finishing pitch. Often done as a finish to 'Creon' but can be easily reached via the ledge system the crosses the face at 60 metres.

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch, then the chimney-gully forming the left side of the Siren buttress.

Not really a climb, just an escape route. The diagonal ramp leading right from the base of the 'Siren' corner.

Nice pitch high on the face.

Good 2nd pitch with bold and committing crux well out from gear. (A couple of grades have been added to allow for this.) 'Hot Flap Direct Start' might be a better start than the current first pitch. Take doubles of all cams to #2 1/2 and three #2 TCUs or equivalent.

Start as for 'Hot Flap', below the flake marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 23m (-) Up to the base of the flake and step L. Follow thin cracks up the face and over a steepening. Follow easy ground up and move R to belay on L edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face' (1st belay of Hot Flap).

2. 35m (18) Move out R a few metres as for 'Hot Flap' and go up to a flake (if you get to a bolt you are about 3m too far R). Go up 5-7m R of the large chimney until the face steepens after about 20m. Get some wires in a flake then move L and boldly up (crux). Above the steepening, traverse 2m R below a thin overlap and then go back L and pull over the overlap. Easier ground leads up dirty groove to ledge on the 'Siren' traverse.

3. 20m (-) Up the corner above then directly up to a good ledge below the recessed wall L of 'Siren' Buttress.

4. 28m (-) An unpleasant crack marks the L side of the recessed wall. From below this crack move out L to an arete. Follow the easy but delightful arete to the top.

Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected.

Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete.

2. 30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt.

3. 32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner.

4. 50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'.

5. 35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.

A logical but not very appealing start.

This obvious start to 'Hot Flap' is well protected at the hardest point but then has a long runout on mossy rock. Still worth a star though.

An interesting exploration that is superseded by other climbs.

Marginal protection on first pitch. Both this pitch and the its next-door neighbour 'Puppet' On A String are very good pitches but possibly the most serious of their grades at 'Arapiles'. Still not sure if they deserve the skull-and-crossbones (have taken them off this climb) but they are very serious.

Peter Watling accidentally climbed this pitch in the 70's thinking it was 'Hot Flap' Direct Start!

1. 50m (18) Climb up midway between the black moss streaks to join 'Hot Flap'. Belay when rope runs out.

2. 35m (-) Up to Siren's corner and climb right wall to stance just below Hot Flap's fourth pitch traverse.

3. 35m (17) Up over traverse line then delicately up on black rock to two horizontal cracks. Step right to runners then back left and up impressive headwall to terrace.

4. 10m (-) Groove in final wall.

Another pitch in a similar vein to 'Sang Froid', possibly the scarier of the two. 'Argonauts' makes a good finish.

1. 50m (17)

2. 50m (18)

3. 10m

A good climb all of the way. Finishing up Tales Of Brave Ulysses makes it even better.

Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).

1. 50m (17) Hard start into crack. When crack peters out step up to thread in flake at 10 metres (this bit is shared with 'Oedipus' Rex). Delicate climbing to left-leading diagonal flake line. Follow these, then straight up to join 'Hot Flap'. Belay on small ledge when the rope runs out.

2. 50m (16) Up to the 'Siren' buttress and take the left-hand line up the front of this (right-hand line is Tales Of Brave Ulysses). This pitch can easily be split into two as on the first ascent.

Start as for C/OR but continue straight up mossy wall where they go left and right. We continued straight up and then through Hot Flap. Could do with a clean up.

Good long climb but the middle section is nothing special.

Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).

1. 30m (17) Hard start into crack. When crack peters out step up to thread in flake at 10 metres (this bit is shared with Creon). Get some runners, don't rely only on the fragile-looking thread, then traverse right under bulge, veer up right for 4 metres then straight up to belay at old bolt. Not a lot of good protection after the thread.

2. 45m (13) Up broken area to big ledge and on up to 'Rotten Row'.

3. 42m (14) Climb black bulge then smooth wall to bolt. On up face to left end of sloping ledge and up left to bigger ledge.

4. 30m (16) Step right and up small, left-facing corner to the roof. Take flake through ceiling with hard move at lip. Easily up. Original finish took steep flake directly above belay (17) and then up through overhangs.

Not a bad start. Reasonable, if fiddly gear.

Good climbing with only a short section of nondescript ground at the start of the second pitch.

There are some dangerous detached blocks/flakes on both first and final pitches and the final pitch is quite has some committing runouts. Tiny cams are essential on the last pitch.

Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 45m (15) Up the chimney (Driftwood) for 12 metres and step left to ledge on arete with large block. Step left again and up to right end of large, bushy ledge. Up clean crack above and then continue up line of flakes around 3 metres left of 'Driftwood, taking care with a fragile section,' to small ledge.

2. 28m (14) Pretty much straight up to large ledge. Traverse 2-3 metres right to orange streak (Antigone) and climb this to 'Rotten Row'.

3. 38m (14) Continue up, delicately at first to large diagonal ledge below Hot Flap's final pitch.

4. 25m (16) From the top of the step halfway along the ledge, climb the wall, moving left at first, to a large detached flake. Step back right and staright up wall and slab to crack in roof and up to join 'Hot Flap'.

A strange, unbalanced climb. Few people will do the climb as a whole, using the initial chimney as the start of another climb or doing the final, evil chimney after starting up something else.

Start: Start at the deep chimney line that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 60m (13) Up the deep line to large ledge. Either a 60 metres rope or a semi-hanging belay at some point is required.

2. 16m (18) Walk 30 metres right into the chimney and belay. Climb the glass-smooth chimney (big cam).

A very nice climb at the grade.

Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 60m (13) Up chimney to large ledge (as for Driftwood). If you don't have a 60 metre rope there is a comfortable belay niche at 20m [as used on the first ascent] which allows 2 reasonable length pitches.

2. 48m (14) Up orange streak to ledge then left and up wall to big ledge on left.

3. 16m (12) Walk 10 metres left and up flake.

Very enjoyable. The fourth pitch is runout but can be avoided.

1. 42m (12) Bridge the crack (Driftwood) until it narrows at 35 metres. Traverse right to first belay of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun (carrot bolt.)

2. 22m (15) Clean steep wall and seam directly above to big ledge on left.

3. 30m (13) Step right and up orange streak to 'Rotten Row'. Move 10 metres right to flake belay under tree.

4. 48m (14) As for final pitch of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Alternatively, escape up 'Rotten Row'.

Start as for 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun'. Where 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun' traverses right, continue straight up. Belay on ledge between 'Antigone' and 'Sundance'. Either rappel from bolt anchors or continue up one of the other climbs off this ledge.

The best way to start Sunset Strait and a worthy pitch in its own right. Starts as for Wall of the Afternoon Sun. Up the easy stuff, then step up and R on to the red streak. Past the bolt and up to stand on the big holds. Move up L to the bolt on Wall of the Afternoon Sun (if joining Sunset Strait) or disregard moving up L to the bolt and instead step up and R to eventually join the last section of the first pitch of Wall of the Afternoon Sun. After its second bolt move across R and up to the ring anchors above Red Sky at Night.

A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch.

Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance).

1. 40m (19) Up the slab to the crack and good gear and a funky mantle to bolt (2nd bolt spins in the hole but can be backed up with a pink Camp tricam). Step right (pocket, small profile cam or tricam) and slabby moves lead to more good climbing and another bolt and on to ledge and belay bolt.

2. 27m (17) Move right to the prominent nose, bridge past its left side and up to ledge. Move 6 metres right to belay below tiny, right-facing corner.

3. 22m (17 R) Up the little corner with marginal gear until it fades and continue boldly up wall. Technical bulge leads to 'Rotten Row'.

4. 48m (14) Up easy flake behind conifer then steeply up to horizontal break at 20 metres. Short left-leading corner then veer left and up.

Up short seam 5 metres right of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Hard moves lead past a peg runner (if it's still there). Traverse left 2 metres and over bulge to flake. Up then left to first belay of WOTAS.

Start: Not a bad line but doesn't see much traffic.

Great climbing up the clean streak starting 15 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'.

1. 45m (20) Straight up the clean streak passing small bulge to tiny stance level with base of chimney on 'Watchtower Chimney'. There's an unprotected move of about grade 16-17 at 7 metres.

2. 40m (19) Up short crack then slab to ledge. Straight up left-hand streak then step right to tricky last move to 'Rotten Row'. Alternatively, from the ledge take the right-hand streak (21) to 'Rotten Row' (WOTAS is just to the right). Graham Sanders, Steve Howden 10-10-1982.

3. 48m (17) From the tree, move left a little then follow the clean streak to the top, crossing Wall Of The Afternoon Sun at the horizontal break.

Botanical line behind large dead tree at right end of 'Rotten Row'.

Crack 5 metres right of 'Tschumpel', 1 metre left of 'Bindi'.

Chimney line 6 metres right of 'Tschumpel'

Good finish but the crack is awful.

Start: At the end of the first pitch of 'Watchtower Chimney'.

Thoughtful and aesthetic climbing with good protection on brilliant rock. Harder and perhaps a bit more committing than 'Take Five' but without the runout at the start (although you want to concentrate for the start of pitch 3). The line is obvious in the photo on p273 of the current Tempest/Mentz guide.

Start up 'Watchtower Chimney Direct Start', the bottomless crack 3m R of Take Five.

1. 45m (21)Take 'Watchtower Chimney Direct Start' to the base of the corner, step left and head up the water-smooth slab (21) between the corner of 'Watchtower Chimney' and the obvious streak of 'Take Five'. At one point high on the pitch you can reach right to place a runner in the corner but continue climbing directly up the slab to belay on the small ledge as for 'Watchtower Chimney'.

2. 20m (19) Head up left across the 'Pantouflage' crack. Either climb seams up the blunt arete - excellent protection but hard with a slopey finish (24? not lead cleanly on 1st ascent), traverse further left to follow 'Take Five' (19) or step back into the crack (the crux is the forestry required to exit back left onto the slab) to reach the ledge.

3. 25m (18) Move the belay into the bottom of the 'Driftwood' chimney. From the base of the chimney, initially move up left towards 'Wall Of The Afternoon Sun' with poor pro for 5-6m, then step back right to head directly up the streak (18) to the hanging R facing corner leading onto Rotten Row'.

Follow 'Rotten Row', continue up the wall above or rappel from the rings about 8m R of the corner. There is a single U-bolt overhead at the base of the 'Driftwood' chimney; a 60m abseil from this reaches the ground.

Description taken from Stuart's post on Chockstone

Originally named "Pantouflage Direct Start", with the directions to continue up Watchtower Chimney. From this you can deduce hat we thought of one climb and which guidebook editor lacked a sense of humour.

Crack 3 metres right of 'Take Five' and 6 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'. When it fades continue boldly up to join 'Watchtower Chimney'.

A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line!

Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.

1. 45m (12) Up the fading crack to a ledge, traverse left past an old carrot bolt and climb the corner to small ledge.

2. 17m (8) Up the rest of the corner to base of chimney

3. 31m (12) Up the chimney without taking the detour. Belay just above

4. 18m (8) A bouldery start leads to an easier finish.

The express route to Mr. Chicken!

1. 40m (12). Start as for Watchtower Chimney, but veer right and up on surprising jugs at the start of the slab (close to the end of the first pitch; this is particularly great for rainy days when the slab is wet). Belay from giant ledge.

2. 20m (8). Traverse slightly right, then follow the juggy staircase until you reach a roof.

3. 15m (10). This is the money pitch. Traverse around the roof and climb the blocks on the right hand side until you reach Mr. Chicken. There is good gear in the cracks.

An excellent test-piece pitch and a very bold onsight lead by Maureen back in the day. The grey seam on the slabby wall immediately L of Watchtower Chimney is gained via the concave slab and wall just L of the bulging nose. Awkward and unprotected moves gain the nose, then the seam is climbed until it runs out. Take a deep breath and keep going boldly up the slab to the traverse on Watchtower Chimney. At the ancient carrot bolt, continue straight up the enjoyable crack to a narrow ledge. The original route moved L and finished up the easy arete but it is much more enjoyable to climb the unlikely wall directly above to the lower-off (35m) anchors. There is a 50m wandering finish that no one does. David Gallagher and Sue Baxter seconded the second half of the described pitch as they originally split the pitch at the carrot bolt. Glenn Tempest added the independent start and straightened the pitch near the top in July 2018.

An enjoyable combination pitch (Watchtower Chimney and Radio Days) which has already become quite popular. Climb Watchtower Chimney's initial crack to the traverse. Move 2m L to the ancient carrot bolt. Straight up the crack above (Radio Days) to a narrow ledge. Directly up the wall above (avoiding the easier climbing up the arete on the L) to the big ledge and lower-off / rappel anchors.

A good pitch which essentially straightens out the first pitch of Tiliqua. Up Watchtower Chimney to the traverse. Step L one metre and climb the crack and balancy smooth wall above. After all the drama, step up L on the undercling and pull the final bulge to the ledge and lower-off anchors (35m).

The first pitch meanders a bit but it does offer some very pleasant climbing. It ends at the shared lower-off / rappel anchors of Shingleback . Originally climbed with further juggy pitches to the top of the Watchtower but they’re probably not worth the wander. Climb the seam immediately R of the start of Watchtower Chimney, which it joins near to its traverse. At the traverse, step 1m L and climb the lovely crack above (same as for Shingleback). After 4m leave the crack and traverse R across and up the wall to to gain an orange L-facing corner. Up this and move over L to the belay / rappel anchors on the ledge.

Or... start up Watchtower Chimney and on the traverse left, go up the seam over bulge, and lower off at 30m.

Start: At foot of Chimney on 'Watchtower Chimney'.

1. 27m (18) Climb past left side of horizontal overlap. Up wall then veer right. Up wall and over horizontal flake near arete. Traverse right to below orange corner.

2. 28m (18) Up wall on left of corner, over bulge, then up.

No idea where this is supposed to be

One move wonder, but not a bad way to fill time if you're queueing for Arachnus (lower off a trad anchor after 25m then retrieve it on your way up Arachnus). May be easier for tall people. Start as for Arachnus, but take thin, left-leaning crack over crux bulge.

Slither like a ferret behind the giant Watchtower flake, starting from Watchtower Crack (top pitch start) and ending up in the Watchtower Chimney.

Getting properly stuck in this is a very serious situation. As it says in "Life On A Line" : "We die if we stand still for too long." Don't go alone.

Not a new route; just one of many existing variants to Arachnus. See FA notes for details.

A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.

1. (40m, 8) Up deep crack until it ends. Traverse 4 metres right, up over disconcerting bulge and follow crack to large ledge. (The first ascent traversed all the way to the right arete before climbing bulge).

2. (21m, 8) Either climb up left of the belay or climb just right of the crack until below bulge and then step left over the crack. Belay on narrow ledge below overhang on left side of The Watchtower.

3. (14m, 9) Either climb straight up veering slightly right, or traverse right on smooth rock past ancient piton before moving right. Belay in a good cave on the right side of the buttress.

4. (30m, 8) Move left out of cave and up exhilarating wall to top. Prearrange your signals as communication is likely to be impossible from the top.

A very popular variant on Arachnus, but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.

1. 40m (8) Arachnus p1.

2. 12m (8) Up smooth wall just right of crack, traverse right, then up to small ledge below juggy crack through overhang.

3. 23m (9) Up crack, then balance carefully right (poor protection) for 4 metres. More easily up to cave belay.

4. 30m (8) Arachnus p4.

The right arete of Arachnus. Quite fun and there are numerous possible variations.

The thin undercut seam above the cave left of the start of Watchtower Crack gets a star despite the fiddly gear to start and the pathetic rap sling. The very bold second pitch is rarely done and is written up separately (Pumping Part II), in the Right Watchtower Face section.

Climbs the wall immediately R of Pumping. Two cruxy sections. The first few metres as for Watchtower Crack. Then step up and across onto the left wall to the obvious 'letterbox' slot (cam), tricky past bolt then up easy diagonal crack for a couple of body-lengths. Step L and finish directly up grey face past another bolt to a small ledge near the arete. Double rings.

Ascends the appealing 8m-wide wall which is left of Watchtower Crack and at right angles to the main slabs. P2&3 are both good. If you want a tougher outing, and/or a line which stays entirely on this slim face, start up Pumping and finish up Xenomorph for pitches of 24, 20, 23 and 26. The recent addition of Golden Handshake offers an even more consistent way to start, by continuing past the anchor of that route up the thin diagonal crack just R of the arete, to join Stumpy Tail part way up pitch 2.

1. 33m (12) Take Watchtower Crack (or Pumping, or Flamingo) to large ledge.

2. 20m (20) L up orange face past FH. Join diagonal crack to small ledge, then follow ramp to pedestal. Step up L onto short delicate face, then L to good belay cave on arete.

3. 10m (23) Up flake then over the L end of the roof. Traverse R past FH to big undercling move, then some steep moves to another good belay ledge on arete.

4. 50m (18) Step up R onto higher ledge, then the reachy lichenous face 3-4m L of Watchtower Crack (small-med cams). Slab easily up L until forced around the arete onto the Arachnus face for the last 20m.

Might be a tad undergraded...

Start at the 3rd belay of Watchtower Crack then take the steep bulge 3m L of p4 of WC. Approach up any one of Watchtower Crack, Stumpy Tail or Arachnus, or rap in from the top.