Routes as trad in Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd

The corner on the L end of the Bum Wall slab. Trad gear. Nice move round the little roof (13), then place high gear for the crux traverse R to the DRB on Lard Arse.

An exit option. Take the right fork looking up. An easy scramble up loose terrain with one 10m pitch of climbing which is apparently grade 18ish, though it's usually wet and slimy. You can bypass this by prusik-ing up a dubious fixed line.

"It's such a cool line, but if you can see it, it's too wide." Mikl. A three pitch trad route up a major corner feature. Bring a rack with plenty of wide gear (doubles of Camalots from #0.3 to #5) plus single set of wires, a couple of micro cams and lots of long runners. Like everything around here the route is accessed by rapping in. Follow narrow sketchy ledge around from top of Lulu for 50m to slot (bolt & fixed rope) - crawl along this for 10m then pop out onto larger ledge with tree and double FHs. Walk 5m further along to double RBs. Rap 35m to small ledge and 2nd set of RBs. Rap 50m to ground (swing across to touch down below the start of the route).

1. 15m (16) Grey loose corner 5m left of the base of the major orange corner. Belay on small ledge using loop of rope over large detached pillar (it's bomber).

2. 45m (18) The mega line! Problem is you have to grovel with fear up the first few metres of alarming choss. Belay at bolts on small ledge on left (the halfway rap anchors). This pitch eats large cams and requires copious long runners. Don't skimp.

3. 35m (19) Back into the jaws of death for several metres then traverse left to continuation of line punching through the steepness above. Be alert but not alarmed past the big chockstone (it wouldn't budge when we tried to manhandle it). Finish with airy thin crack (save the small cams).

A mostly trad route up a series of corners (some cracked, some fused). Bring your A Grade stemming ability for the crux pitch. Rack - wires, singles of #0.3-0.5 camalots & doubles of #0.75-#4. Rock quality on this route is big grain and sometimes dirty - take care. All belays are bolted. Approach - rap anchors are located halfway along the crawl section with the fixed rope. Either fix a 70m rope, and rap down to top of pitch 1 and then double rope 30m to ground - or fix a 100m rap line. The route starts left (looking out) of where the rap ropes touches down.

1. 30m (19) Short handcrack to grasstree, then step left into fused corner (bolt). Up corner (fiddly gear) to ledge. Finish up spooky but spectacular layback crack to novelty belay on "boot flake" ledge.

2. 25m (23 to 25) Left off ledge (medium cams in breaks) to bolted face & techy fused corner. Save a #1 & 2 Camalot for the top. Full hanging belay on bolts. Leave the rest of the rack for the second to lug up. The grade of the crux on this pitch is proving quite divisive (hence the route name).

3. 25m (21) 3 bolts up face to the right of corner (bird poo marks the way!) then swing right into blind trad protected corner that leads to tiny ledge belay.

4. 30m (21) Stem up a few moves to cam break - then traverse right onto orange face and up to small roof crack. Over this (burly!) then up long dirty wide crack to top. Don't place all your big gear down low - you will want it high up!

An excellent trad adventure with a long, quality crux pitch reminiscent of Samarkand (albeit easier). Originally climbed onsight, ground up, sans start bolt, and through a sea of choss. Significantly tamed now.

From the anchors above Incitatus, using either 2 ropes or a doubled 70m rope, rap twice down Incitatus (25m and 35m) to The Agora Ledge. Then abseil diagonally over to the top of Pebble Pundits P1 (25m). Using a #2 cam and the in situ bolt, rap a final 20m to the ground. You can also reach the ground in a single 100m abseil with enough rope and some abseil trickery.

Take full set of nuts, double cams from tiny to #4 Camalot, with a few extra smaller cams (0.3 - 0.5 Camalot).

1. 20m (20) A scrubby and undercut start (pre-clip/stick-clip the bolt) leads to surprisingly difficult and varied crack-fu. Belay on ledge at bolt.

2. 35m (21) The soaring corner/crack. Trad belay on ledge under roof - #3 & #4 cam required.

3. 20m (20) Step left under roof and up beautiful water-washed crack, then around right where the crack fuses to Lulu belay bolts at ledge.

4. 35m (22) Exit via Lulu (all bolts).

Long trad corner crack, varied and interesting. From spacious ledge, up crack for 50m, trending left onto face in the last 5m.

First lead as one long pitch, however can be split into 2 at small ledge at 25m.

Takes gear from 0.3 to 4 camalot and wires.

To access, rap down Puppet of a Sinner from rings in cave, either with fixed 55m rope or 2 raps.

An impressive crack in an unlikely position. The first pitch is 38m of glorious and sustained corner crack, one of the finest single trad pitches of the grade in the mountains.

Initially led with a rest on the first pitch circa 2007 by Simon Opper and Andy Myers.

Access by 2 raps down Charlie Don't Surf followed by the Monteith Memorial Traverse. Alternatively, fix and rap an 80m rope and swing across on the traverse bolts to ledge.

1. 38m Gr. 24 From spacious ledge, head up corner crack to belay on ledge.

2. 30m Gr. 20 Continue up steepening corner crack. Once around first few roofs follow an obvious escape left onto slab. Continue up to ledge and DBB.

While this would be the line of the route, a more enjoyable and sustained outing would be to finish up the second pitch of Charlie Don't Surf. Or even better, climb it as a single ledge to ledge mega pitch and stick to the crack for the finish, 60m just makes it.

Recommended Rack:

1 x #1 C3 (red), 1 x #2 C3 (yellow), 3 x #0.3, 3 x #0.4, 2 x #0.5 to #3, 1 x #4, Small-Medium Wires

Optional: #6 Cam for the very start (an extra 0.5 is also suitable as an inferior placement), extra #0.3 and #0.4 cams (recommended), extra #2 and #3 cams.

A mega line linking improbable features up much steepness, and a contender for one of the best at the grade in the Blueys. Partially equipped by Emil, and finished years later by Paul.

Climb The Thin Line of Reprieve on gear (#6/Wires, 0.3, 2, & 3) to first rooflet and hard to clip bolt. Then bust out a rising traverse left with wild, gymnastic moves, before continuing more directly up steep prow to no hands rest. From the rest, dyno for all you're worth, then power through sustained steep climbing for 20m to the belay.

CLOSED PROJECT.

All thrilla, no filla. 1 new bolt and 5m of new climbing, all action, minimal faff, no camp-out rests.

Single 40m pitch overhanging ~12m, half on gear and half on bolts, starting from trad belay (BD #1 and #2) 6m left of the start of Two Nobodies.

Up flake feature past 5 bolts. Hard moves off #0.75/#1 cams, then 3 more bolts of punchy climbing to #1, #0.4 and #4 cams to major horizontal. 2 more bolts leads to the upper crux, rising traverse left across a weird hanging feature (avoid trending right into death choss). #2/#3 cams in break below the final roof, then punch out the roof and overhanging prow on amazing pocket jugs, protected by #0.3 and #0.5 cams, leading to final mantle and anchor.

Can escape the crag from here via P3 (22) of Two Nobodies.

Gear: BD #0.3 to #4, with doubles of #0.75, #1 and #2.

Nearest route to the waterfall. This was an abandoned partially bolted Simon Opper project from 2007ish that has been re-equipped and a lower pitch added.

1. 25m () Corner crack (trad) for 15m then trend right onto face and long rising traverse to small ledge and semi-hanging belay.

2. 37m () Steep, mostly juggy climbing up guts of big orange wall. All bolts.

Mostly trad, mostly choss. Major crackline splitting the orange wall. Very overhung. Best to fix a 100m static and short fix down the route. The bottom belay is about 10m above the ground which is a ferns and mud. Rack should be triples of cams 0.3 - 0.5, doubles of cams 0.75 to 3, single of cams 4 & 5. The 5 can be left at pitch 4 belay as its only needed on the last pitch. Approach: It's best to fix ropes rather than attempting to use double ropes and pull them down after you. There are two ways to rap down depending on how much you want to pre-inspect what you plan to climb back up. If you just want to get down quickly and inspection free use the FH and ubolt anchor (same approach as for Superdyke). Rap straight down corner, down Superdyke and continue down below that route using trad and occasional bolt to stay connected to the wall. Option B rap which goes straight down the route - use the single lone Ubolt further left (back it up with the FH/ubolt to the right). This way down requires a lot of kick swinging, short fixing on each belay and leaving occasional bits of trad behind. It's mega steep!

1. 15m (17) Overhung trench of choss. All trad. Hanging belay off bolts

2. 35m (24) 3 bolts up face to where the "fun" begins. Boldly launch up overhung wall, following intermittent seam, and through two small roofs to small ledge belay. This pitch takes a lot of finger sized cams.

3. 12m (22) Pretty ghastly steep. Exposed flakes of choss to lone bolt. Wiggle a #4 in the mud slot above this then launch into steep pumpy fisty crack. Belay on small ledge (DRB)

4. 25m (22) Traverse right across wall on flakes then mantle up to small ledge. Finish up the top section of Superdyke (bolts).

http://sydneyclimbing.com/Mt+Banks.html

Alternative middle section for The Original Route between the first and second ledges (pitches 5-8). Climb right around tree and follow obvious right facing corner in 3 pitches. Two bash-ins where needed about 4m right of the crack halfway up and chain between two bash-ins for the top anchor. Some loose rock.

Outstanding and varied climbing following the obvious clean left facing corner on the right side of the only amphitheater in the bottom cliff-line. About 20mm R of Original route. A challenging lead yet well protected. Access as per other routes starting at the base. Two great pitches up the thin crack corner, then up gullies for a few hundred meters and walk left a kilometer on the 3rd ledge

Ok climbing (mostly) on generally ok rock (some spooky choss) with generally ok pro (trad with a few carrots).

The belays are usually trees or bolts to enable retreat. Most of the pitches are about 16 to (hard) 18 with the top pitches being the hardest (thrutchy cracks). Probably worth 20 for the epic factor, and the style (slabs and cracks). Best done on a long cool day (October, November?). Gets sun after noon, take plenty of water, and don't drink from the Grose. It’s a bit of an epic to access, and to escape from.

Access - Easiest to approach traditionally from Perry’s Lookdown. Walk down to Bluegum Forest and then walk back up the valley a bit (looks more like 2km or so), cross the Grose River (-33.594528,150.361746, or Mt Wilson sheet 8030-1N KH550796), and find the creek below Original Route and the Central Gully (maps!). There's a fat orange tree right on the track with "Turn O" carved on the north (back) side, cross the river about 30m south of this. Walk up the ridge just right of the creek to below the huge left facing choss corner (pitches 6 and 7) on the 2nd Tier, and traverse left 50m to start left of orange wall at ground level (see picture of Pitch 1 above).

When you finish the climb, walk 20m up the gully to a good track heading left. After 200m turn left at the Cairn, finish up Pitch 20. Regaining the track, after about 10-15 minutes it drops down over some fallen trees onto to the summit walking track, left up this another 300m then down and right to carpark (45 minutes, take a torch).

1. 30m Start left of orange rock, up to fixed hanger at 10m, then to ledge belay.

2. 20m Walk left and up corner.

3. 30m Up wall.

4. 40m Up easy slab to corners. Up to tree with rope marker.

5. 50m (Scary walk) Go right (belayed) about 10m and scramble up 1st ledge below 100m choss corner.

6. 25m Up corner, loose. U + gear belay.

7. 25m Up left wall, step R into corner. U + gear belay

8. 20m Walk easily left to block, bolt and U on lip.

9. 50m Up and slightly leftwards forever, 2U + bolt belay (poor rock) on the exposed perch out left (The 11 o'clock pitch, that's the direction you head, and you should be on it by then).

10. 25m Left and up scary erosion groove. Step right at top and up slope to tree and 2nd ledge. 2nd ledge, walk up 15m and then left 40m to weird old 2 bolt anchor with tat. Next pitch starts in sloping dirty corner just to the left.

11. 20m Up finger crack ramp and slab to 2BB. Stay out right.

12. 25m Right to groove and up, then black slab to small trees (can link to next pitch if you have cams for the top).

13. 15m Up wall to big tree.

14. 30m Up sandy seam, right and up tricky slab, wires in finger crack.

15. 15m Easily up ridge to 3rd ledge. Walk down and left across gully past chossy white corner, and left 40m more to big black corner.

16. 25m Up corner, hand, offwidth (basalt chock stones!), and flare in corner, tree belay (don’t use the dead one like I did)

17. 20m Up gully to base of main corner.

18. 25m Up corner then left wall and crack, sling runners near top, 2UB

19. 20m Right into corner and weird moves into crack on right wall. Follow thrutchy crack (plus chockstones if you are out of big gear) then up to 2UB on right wall high. Then walk out and finish up Pitch 20!

Gear: Take a single rack of cams, finger to a big fist sized and doubles of hand-size, wires, a bunch of brackets (and wires you can use for clipping also). 3L of water, torch.

Escape: On the 1st ledge it’s possible to scramble left through horrendous scrub and past Original route, then up the access ramp (rope) then up to carpark. About 2.5 hours. Probably safer to rap and walk back down to Bluegum and up (rap plus 2 hours). There is an awesome bivvy hut on the 1st ledge about 8 minutes’ walk left of the big corner, built in the 50's, no water though.

On the 2nd ledge, walk right easily for 30 minutes and up 10m to the fire trail and turn left. About 70 minutes from here back to Mt Banks carpark. You can go left along the 2nd ledge but it gets funky. There is a good cave where someone had an epic bivvy about 40m right of the top of pitch 10 on the 2nd ledge.

On the 3rd ledge apparently you can walk off left, but few details so don’t try it in the dark. There is a sandy cave atop pitch 15. Rap to 2nd ledge and go off right.

Unusual climbing up a basalt pillar. Virtually pitch 20 of The Camel, as there isn't much other reason to be out there. Walking out from The Camel on the track, after 200m the track heads left into thicker scrub then makes a 90 degree right-angle turn. At this point turn left and bash 30m, coming out on a basalt scree slope. This climbs the tallest buttress (-33.590111, 150.370618) on your left, with a finger crack running up most of it. The top is a bit shattered so put in a few delicate directionals and belay from trees on the hill behind.

Climbs the “undeniable wall” mentioned in the Coronation Crack description in Warwick William's guidebook. Protection is a bit sketch - some was preplaced on rap - thus the meaning behind the name of the route! Walk 240 m further left (N) of the top of Groseness along the ledge. On the edge of the wall below are 3 pine trees [has not been checked since 2019 bushfires - trees may not exist!], rap down off the southmost and smallest one (bring spare slings or rope to back it up with other trees). Rap 50m to small tree and bolt belay, and another 50 m to the ground. Alternately, rap down Coronation Crack. Take a few slings, brackets and many cams up to large size. Shut your eyes on the way down.

1. 50m Start about 20m of Coronation Crack at small left-facing weakness. Up past bolt and cams breaks, drift R and up corner at 20m then diagonally left towards ledge and tree belay.

2. 50m Up corner above belay and leftwards then up wall with top bolt hard to clip (pre-clip?). Up past cams and some slings to collapse on tree.

Another route up the grand wall left of Coronation Crack. Best to rap the route, starts below a thin corner 30m left of the top of Coronation Crack. Rap down to cave belay (2BB) and thence to ground. Alternately rap down "Friends don't let Friends Place Friends or Coronation Crack. Take lotsa cams, double ropes, and brackets.

1. 50m Up wall past bolt to corner, follow this to roof, right to bolt and up wall to cave.

2. 50m Pull through right side of cave then diagonally left past cams for 12m to bolt. Up black streak to top.

(Sounds like it goes somewhere between Weakened Worriers and Zireon). Locate giant flake 30 from base of cliff and 150m L of giant wall of yellow choss at far W end. Up slab to flake then diagonally R to tree belay. Halfway up flake step L to slab. Traverse L and go up small cracks to cave. R through overhang. Up slabs 80m to corner. 40m corner (Coronation crack?), then easy.

The climb goes up the "fairly obvious" line to the right of the main face, or 100m left of a huge triangular yellow overhang (this could be the "map of Africa" choss just right of Groseness?). It finishes just where the third cliffline peters out. Good luck! Any fixed gear would be rusted away most likely.

1. 18m Start up an awkward chimney then onto the R wall. PR up to belay. 2) 18m Scramble carefully up.

2. 18m Move easily still

3. 30m Up a short wall to scrub beneath the prominent corner overhung at the base.

4. 34m (crux) Overcome the overhang via the wall then very pleasant climbing straight up.

5. 24m More scrub, up.

6. 21m Still scrubby, up.

7. 15m Up in corner, PR

8. 38m An exposed pitch, leftwards across yellow rock to tree. Up to left BR above tree. Tree belay.

9. 5m Up scrub.

10. 9m Up in corner and right.

11. 9m Up crack on the right.

12. 21m Up Chimney of upper (3rd?) cliffline.

Nice trad route. Start: Rap down from north edge of cave 20m left of Groseness (facing cliff). 50m rap down wall over ledges etc to bolt belay. 48m rap to tree.

1. (50m) up thin layback crack till 5m below roof, move left to large cam break and blast up wall to belay.

2. (50m) up wall past breaks, move left past bolt and tenuosity and up more easily to big ledge and tree, step right and up to finish. Take wires, cams with lots of extra med to large (at least one or two #4s)

It's amazing what you can do with a carrot (this route has not been rebolted). Best to rap Groseness. Start 25m L of Groseness (10m left of slight corner which is Pestosterone). Take a big rack and some brackets.

1. 25m (23) Up slab to ledge and tree.

2. 25m (23) Up then right to layback and arete

3. 35m (16) up line to tree

4. 20m (16) up to ledge 10m below Ab Flab tree.

5. 50m (24) Right and up shallow corner, left then right at 30m, up wall to roof (big cam) and up headwall and right to BB. Long and sustained

6. 35m (23) up left past 3 bolts then up and right.

7. 15m (16) up weird corner

A nice big crack for 3 pitches then 7 pitches of bush bashing crap. Bring a full trad rack, crampons and 10 bolt plates. Best to do first 2 pitches, then rap off and finish up Pestosterone. Big Day Out!

Start: You need to rap in to access this route. First ascent team went straight down the route off manky trees and bolts, not recommended. Best to rap down Grossness and walk about 200m right to below left facing big wide corner and roof.

1. 30m (16) Scramble up choss, up easy chimney past scary chockstone, then finally layback up nice orange offwidth past 4 carrots to belay on big ledge at double BRs.

2. 15m (22) Mega offwidth undercling under huge roof. Belay around in corner at 4 bolt belay. Pumpy!

3. 35m (15) Continue up wide crack with spaced trad gear in horizontals. Big cams and slings useful. Belay on loose slope on multiple suss trees.

4. 50m (1) Scramble up and right through spiky bush to little cave.

5. 30m (6) Up dirty corner and chimney to tree belay below big orange wall.

6. 17m (18) Climb tree to gain undercut corner at far right end of roofs on right edge of orange wall. Up corner for 7m then traverse hard left across black wall to belay in scoop at double BR belay (up high in scoop).

7. 25m (17) Step left into corner crack. Up this (good cams) to final tricky bulge to gain bushy gully. Belay on double BRs on left side of bottom of gully.

8. 40m (3) Classic. Bushbash straight up guts of vegetated canyon/gully until an easy traverse left solves the overhang. Belay on trad on ledge.

9. 45m (6) Walk to left end of ledge, then up on rock (shock horror!) to topout.

10. 30m (1) Walk right along ledge to gully and scramble up.

Mostly trad multi up a series of splitter cracks. Rack - doubles from #0.3 to #3 Camalots and single set of wires. A few extra cams in the tight hand size could be handy as well a single #4 camalot. Belays are on small ledges. Rap in as for Sarlac.

1. 20m (17) Corner crack 2m right of the bolted slab of Sarlac pitch 1. At top of corner trend left to finish via last bolt of Sarlac. Belay off U bolts on big ledge.

2. 20m (20) Move belay 10m left to crack (trad belay). Layback or jam offset crack to "The Block" - don't worry its attached to the cliff with some creative engineering. Whimper around it then stem up amazing wave funnel plugging cams in the right crack. Belay on big ledge (U bolts).

3. 25m (22) The money pitch. Jam up stunning orange crack (wide down low then mostly tight hands/finger size). When crack evaporates at 15m traverse right onto bolted wall. Up this (crux) then trend left to small ledge stance in corner (U bolts). It is possible to break this pitch into two with trad belay above crack.

4. 30m (21) Stem up ugly rock to flake then traverse right under rooflet to ledge. Dawdle up easy ground to top and tree belay. 6 bolts - no trad on this pitch.

A landmark feature, but the rock is average at best! Up the major left facing corner-crack between the choss-arete and STMLTS, with much loose rock on the right wall. Hard moves through the vegetation, up scary block of mega-choss, up off-width overhanging corner (with sections of choss) and finally up into roof to lower-off anchors. The theme of the day is choss! FA was done in a giant pitch (and not using any of the nearby bolts), but best to split this into two pitches at the interim belay below the giant choss-block (or just bring 3 x full racks #0.75 to #4 and lots of runners).

Upgraded in latest guide. Start at the crack 1m or so R of Samson Gets a #1 and follow this up to the arete. Go around the arete and past one bolt (has a biner on it as of 04/18) to desperate, disintegrating and gripping crux sequence that gets harder every time someone pulls on. If you manage to old school your way through this, continue up the slowly falling apart crack to the ledge. Rap off the block above Samson.

The middle of the three cracks. Fantastic looking crack that is visible from both the track and many of the climbs on the East Side. Easy corner to hand crack that then widens. Finger crack to finish. Rap off unpleasantly slung death block on top.

The crack a few metres left of Samson Gets a #1.

1. 28m (19) Up crack to ledge. Belay on boulders (as for Kryptonite Crack and Samson Gets a #1).

2. 32m (19) From anchor traverse 6m L to below bulging L-facing corner-crack. Traverse further 2m L to below pockets. Up to pockets then back R to crack (small wires). Pull through bulge (crux) then good climbing following crack to ledge. Find carrot belay on far R side of ledge. Rap 50m to ground (it's not a rap anchor though, only carrots, so you'll have to leave some gear behind to rap off this).

Groove 10m L of Bladderhozen. Start at shallow R facing corner. Take a #0.2 to #4 BD as well as the usual suspects.

1. 35m (20) Corner then short flake to stance, up and R to overlap below tiny fern, vital small wire and and cam. Up L on pockets then back R and climb the wall to the right of the vegetated groove on pockets, breaks and ironstone edges to the overlap, and bolt. Pull on to wall and easier wall climbing veering left to belay at stance above small roof in groove, cams in pockets to belay.

2. 25m (17) Up wall to large break and ring belay #4 handy this pitch

3. 30m (23) Easily up corner to ledge, right wall of corner, 2 bolts. Move onto the left wall & shallow horizontal break, 0.5 BD Crux, slightly L, up the wall (2 bolts) to flake in corner, easier climbing up corner to ledge. #4 , #0.75 & 0.3 or 0.4 BD for belay.

4. 15m (24) A great pitch. Stem corner to large horizontal below roof. L 1m into hand crack. Big holds on steep arête between crack and corner. Hard last 3m back to corner and up to ledge, DRBB. Single rack required for this pitch.

Rap 45m to rings (anchor 2) then rap 25m to anchor 1 of Bladderhozen, then rap to the ground.

If you have a x60m ropes you can reach the ground in two abseils.

From the Pierces Pass Lower Carpark, head down the Pierces Pass walking track, looking for the Yileen canyon exit track (on the right) when approximately below The Colours of Spring. Head down the Canyon Exit Track, across the creek, and back up the other side (passing below Wrath of Delilah, Samson Gets a #1 and Kryptonite Crack), and below the cliffline (past Bladderhozen, Church of the Seven Samurai and The Iron Throne) to the bottom of Yileen Canyon.

Bush bash through dense wall-of-tree in a westerly direction below the cliffline (staying high-ish) for 100m to another slot canyon (this is the abseil descent from the climbs beyond this point), and for another 100m to Mrs Mac's Crack (the first of the obvious, overgrown corner-cracks, in grey rock). 15m further along, down a slight scramble is the direct, vegetated grovel start to Tientel (look for several carrots directly above, this is Kiss and Tell (22), which shares the same start).

Better than Ben Hur is another 100m further along the base of the cliff (and up a vegetated, loose gully).

P1 12m (15) - Up dirty, vegetated, barely protected corner to groove/chimney. Up this until it ends, then left along vegetated/loose ledge to belay below the main corner.

P2 45m (20) - Up loose blocks and vegetation, to overgrown, dirty corner. Carefully up this to a nice-looking clean corner at 35m height. Layback up clean corner, then continue up to a stance on a small, vegetated ledge below loose corner above (average gear on this belay).

P3 45m (20) - Up past shale-band and through roof to vegetated corner. Okay climbing up corner past 2 bulges. Belay on rubble-strewn ledge (fixed hex), 10m below big shale roof.

P4 45m (21) - Up corner to disgusting shale ledge and shale roof. Carefully get a #5 cam (or #4 higher up) into the wide shale-crack in the roof. Through roof with much trepidation (being careful not to kill your belayer), then more enjoyable steep corner-crack climbing to huge shale/dirt ledge.

P5 35m (21) - Up tricky, vegetated stemming corner to stance below roof. Chimney through roof, and up dirty, mossy, vegetated corner above to shale-mantle next to a small cave (#2 & #3 cams out right to belay).

P6 25m (12) - Dangerously up completely overgrown and underprotected corner. Up wide crack. Up ironstone plates to belay well-back on small trees.

To escape, walk east down the steepening hill and into the overgrown canyon. CAREFULLY down the steep canyon (through a wall of shrubs/trees) aiming for a tree with multiple slings around it at the canyon drop-off. A full 60m abseil will JUST make it to the ground, or a 40m abseil (to carrots + carabiners on the RIGHT side of the canyon), and another 20m abseil to the ground.

Description as found in "Rockclimbs in the Grose Valley", edited by Warwick Williams:

Everyone raves about it.

This is a typical Grose climb that can really test your commitment and experience. A few young hard men thought that this would be a good starting place to show their mettle. Before reaching the crux, but after breaking a hold or two, they thought Nowra was a better bet.

Stepped, left leaning corner system capped by large roof finishing near Liversidge Hill and clearly visible from Hanging Rock.

Access: Follow the Pierces Pass track towards valley until it reaches cliffs. Leave track and head west crossing creek, then follow base of cliffs, crossing two more watercourses until major corner system is visible. Walking time from track to climb is about 45mins. Mt Wilson map ref 517818.

Start: Scramble up (ropes required) about 70m to base of corner following system of bushy ledges; corner begins at right end of top ledge. Take full rack up to very large SLCD.

1. 40m (16) Corner to belay (SLCD's) above small overhang with large bush, 4m below first major roof.

2. 25m (18/19) Corner to shale ledge (good runner) then traverse left 4m to break in roof. Jugs (?), then left and up corner past bush to HB (SLCD'S) below bush 2.5m below roof.

3. 20m (crux) Corner to second roof with prominent horizontal handcrack. Move left under roof, then corner to belay (SLCD's) on good, small ledge.

4. 40m (17) Corner to large roof, then left round arete to corner. Corner/slab to belay (SLCD's) 4m below final roof.

5. 30m (14) Up right on juggy wall to arete , then into easy corner.

Classic hairline splitter crack, with a mix of crack and technical face climbing. Visible on your left as you head down the main Pierces Pass walking track. You can access the top rap-anchors for Grasshopper wall via this route: Grasshopper Wall Top Approach GPS Tracklog. Bring a full rack from micro sizes to #3 Cam, with extra small-medium wires (and a set of larger RPs). Start directly below the main crack. 80m rope gets you to the ground.

1. 8m (18) - Short, dirty corner and face to ledge with 2 ringbolts. Harder than you want it to be.

2. 32m (25) - Low-angle splitter crack of varying sizes. Climb to the little rooflet with rings out left. Skip them and continue into the next section past the rooflet and wall above. Bring lots of wires on this pitch (including the small ones).

Climbs a rad orange streak in this grey wall next to Grasshopper, in a great exposed position. P2 and P3 can be combined for a long, continuous pitch of challenging face-climbing. Start as for Grasshopper.

1. 10m (15) Grasshopper P1.

2. 15m (23) 9 Bolts. Up Grasshopper for a move or two (until you can clip the bolt out right), then step out right and follow the line of bolts up the face, getting progressively harder all the way to the anchors below the small rooflet. This pitch can be combined with the next pitch.

3. 20m (25) 7 Bolts. A great technical pitch, but kinda wandery. From the belay, up reinforced flake system, and bust out left to bright orange streak (crux). Up this for 2m, then back right via hard moves on flakes to other orange streak. Up thin face to horizontal break, then up through a final thin sequence to the anchors.

NOTE: *Pitch 2 does NOT finish at the first set of chains, but instead goes up a short corner to the left, then back right under the roof to a set of carrot bolt anchors around the corner.

*After the recent bushfires, rapping off after P3 is no longer feasible (the rap tree is disintegrating), you must top out (P4) to escape this climb safely.

1. 30m (19) Start up the obvious thin crack with a hard move off the ground. Continue up easier territory to chain belay on ledge.

2. 45m (19) Up and left into steep finger crack and then left again into easy choss corner with one true guillotine block up high. Up to ledge with bolts and chain, step left into thin corner and head up to the ledge below roof. Walk a ways right and round the corner to a carrot belay. Consider belaying at the first chain before the thin corner if you have not made adequate arrangements to mitigate potentially horrendous rope drag.

3. 25m (21) Ultra desperate moves for the grade off the belay past two carrots to much easier ground. Up face to slab and then to ledge where you can belay (trad).

4. 15m Easy (roped) scrambling to top of spire.

Escape: Getting off this route is rather epic and a bit of an adventure in its own right. There are currently (04/18) some in situ slings around a large block that you could rap off at the end of pitch three if need be. Replace them or treat with GREAT caution. Alternatively you can attempt the walk off. Begin this by scrambling off the back of the pinnacle and crossing (with care) the awesome chockstone that bridges the chasm. Scramble down this chockstone on its left hand side to a large tree. Behind this tree is a slot in the rock that is about 2m deep, 50cm high and runs horizontally for approx 15m. Slide into this slot and carefully crawl on your stomach along the ledge trying to ignore the 100m drop to your left. A belay can be set up on the large tree for the leader but there is not much on the other side to protect a second. After exiting the slot wander around left, making upwards progress where it is safest and easiest to do so until you have eventually breached all the major cliff bands and can walk to the summit of Rigby Hill, all the while thinking that the walk off was probably more involved than the route. A classic Bluies trad day.

Two brilliant pitches. On the face around the corner (to the right, looking at the cliff) of The Colours of Spring. Locate the carrot bolt on the arete of P1 before starting up.

Cams BD #0.3 - BD #4, full rack of wires + RPs.

P1 - Up face to ledge stance. Big gear (#4 BD) high in the flake on the right. Traverse to the arete (#2 BD), then up the arete past a carrot bolt and onto the slab.

P2 - Climb the sustained stemming corner to its conclusion past 3 carrot bolts with mixed fiddly gear to keep it sane. Crucial small wire in the flake before the 3rd bolt. At the top, belay off two carrots below Pitch 3 of The Colours of Spring, but consider extending your belay to the edge to avoid dropping rocks on your second.

NOTE: At the moment there are NO rings to rap off from the top of Pitch 2. Be prepared to leave behind a prussic (slinging the carrots) and carabiner to rap 55m to the ground, IN CASE the in situ rap gear is gone.

Starts about 25m right of Disco Biscuit (a good landmark due to the chipped square and arrow), below a good looking hand crack. Definitely not Proteus...

1. 55m (18) Up the sustained hand crack, which becomes a V-groove and finally an offwidth up high. Belay on a large chossy ledge with poor gear. Once second is up, move belay 10m right to below a nice looking face and corner.

2. 50m (14) Up for 25m to a large break, where the corner above becomes an unprotectable squeeze chimney. Unprotected crawl right along the break for 25m through spiderwebs and bird shit to a sloping ledge where you can finally get out and set a belay.

3. 40m (2) Continue walking along the break (now a ledge), past a huge loose block, through another crawl section and over to a corner with a small triangular bollard.

Abseil 15m off the bollard (we left a sling here) to a large tree. 45m overhanging abseil to the ground.

Much better alternative to Proteus. Up the striking and for the most part good quality corner at about half height of the cliff. This one great pitch probably isn't enough to redeem the rest of the zero star bush rambling.

1. (30m) Start at the base of the slight amphitheatre with some tricky vegetated ledges

2. (40m) Scramble though 30m of bushes and climb the small buttress of rock to gain base of obvious crack system.

3. (35m - Crux) Climb the obvious corner crack at about grade 16 to good belay ledge.

4. (20m + 10m scramble) easy rambling up vegetated corner.

5. (40m) Starting at the most inside section of the amphitheatre climb the obvious chossy crack until blocked by orange roofs. Traverse right with no pro for 25m and up 5m to 2 carrot belay.

6. (40m) Ramble up and right with minimal pro to gain top out. Very exposed on terrible ironstone edges.

Old fashioned struggle with some good climbing. The rubbish pitch 1 could be avoided by climbing up an easy wide crack 15m left of the line to reach the first belay. The hard face climbing on pitch 2 could be avoided by simply walking up the two enormous boulders forming the Bridge of Sigh, if you are brave enough and if they are still there (?!). Take gear and lots of brackets for top pitch. Start in gully below yellow corners at right side of Walls Lookdown, about 30m down and left of Long, Strong or Blonde.

1. 25m Up easy ground and traverse left on shattered rock to ledge and 2BB.

2. 40m (22) Up and left to break, right to bolt and gently onto huge block. Up offwidth and into chimney. 2BB

3. 30m (18) Out to lip of roof and up excellent chimney past gear and 5 bolts to tree on ledge.

4. 10m (20) Up face and crack past 2 bolts. 2 BB.

5. 40m (22) Traverse left 10m and up past bolts, medium wire and medium cam, then up arete past bolts to scrubby ledge, bolt and cam belay.

6. 30m Walk right and up scrubby ledge to 2BB, about 15m left of major arete Disco Non Stop Party.

7. 50m (22) Up wall past many bolts.

8. 10m Up easy wall.

A mutli-pitch route climbing a major corner crack system directly below Disco Non-Stop Party. The topos shown in the Carter print guides are possibly incorrect and show this route starting much lower than it actually does. Bring a double set of wires, a full set of cams and doubles of 0.75" to 3" sizes. Some gear was pre-placed on the first ascent and this is recommended for subsequent repeats.

1. 35m (22) Friom left end of big ledge climb crack and wall, easy to start then steeper finger crack to hand crack. Around bush and on to stance then awkward stance on arete, then crux pulling over roof (essential #1 Friend and small wire, best pre-placed on rap)

2. 45m (21). Up and left to crack, follow crack then step right to small ledge with tree, bolt. Steeper wall, big holds and pockets past rings to second ledge. Traverse right 5m to carrot, up on big holds then left before climbing onto ledge. Final steep moves up wall and arete to old carrot belay as for original version of Disco Non Stop Party.

3. 40m (19) The corner (shared last pitch with Voidophobia)

The line of old bash-in rusty carrots on the wall 8m right of Let Freedom Ring, including a hanging belay off FHs. This is probably an abandoned attempt by Giles Bradbury to bolt something down here in 90s -it doesn't look very good and goes nowhere. The rap route access for the lower routes goes down this - marvel at the unfinished vision.

CLOSED PROJECT - Will

1. ???

2. 55m (xx) Radical wandering line linking obvious features to top out the wall.

Climbs the prominent crack about 20m right of Hypothermia just before the big cave. Two good pitches in an amazing location. Recommended rack: single set of wires and double cams to #3.

1. 20m (15) Start up short slab below prominent flake crack, stepping right into shallow left facing corner. Follow crack up to gear belay under cave on comfy ledge.

2. 20m (21) Continue up crack to base of roof and plug in some gear. Climb left along roof crack to lip (crux) and follow left tending line to top. Belay at double carrot anchor set about 5m back from edge on shelf, but recommended to use climbing rope to extend belay to edge. Walk off via descent gully ~150m left.

Obvious wide crack that splits the upper wall. 30m left of the Lunch Ledge rap station.

Some call this overhung crack splitting an amphitheatre the best multi-pitch trad route in the Blue Mountains. Every pitch is great and the access is surprisingly easy. It is however quite difficult to retreat once a couple of pitches off the deck due to the steepness. Bring prussics! This route was originally climbed ground up with an overnight bivy on one of the small ledges and with several sections of aid. Recent rebolting of the original aid bolts ladders has reduced the original bolt count by at least 3 - it's more airy but the bolts are better!

Access via the rap route described separately.

Double rack of cams, micros to Camalot #4, a single set of wires, #2 RP up, and 5 bolt plates does the trick.

1. 15m (19) The first 5m or so have average rock quality (1 carrot) then onto the slab with polished hard sandstone and RP seam. Ignore TBB below cramped little rooflet, and climb to DBB up and left with spacious foot ledge. Don't let the RPs scare you - it's not very hard.

2. 35m (25) Tricky moves at start past two RBs, right along break to rejoin the crack line and up into chimney, then steep cracks. Belay from good ledge on bolt and medium cams and wires.

3. 20m (23) Awkward moves to get established in splitter layback tips crack. Brief excitement leads to a good belay stance (RB, trad).

4. 35m (22) The corner on good gear using crack and face holds. At a carrot at 3/4 height move up right (optional #4 Camalot in break) to thin flake and 2nd carrot, a sling on this second carrot keeps the rope from jamming in the flake. Climb to small ledge and then to ledge with short corner above. Tricky moves past one more carrot leads to big ledge and DBB. 4a. 8m (23) up the corner, traverse R to arête, up arête (one BR then a runout), to rejoin the original for its final two bolts. Lots of fragile rock (and exposure) on this pitch. Prussics!).

5. 25m (22) This would be a good rap-in and climb-out pitch in its own right if you aren't up for the rest. Follow left leaning crack until it peters out, step right then up scoop to fragile short headwall with 2 carrots. Take care mantling the grass and dirt slope (yum) and on the 10m scramble up to path. DBB.

6. 20m (22) The left side of the arête above the cave on Lunch Ledge (4m left of the bolted routes). Bold runout start off rock ledge with a key thread at 4m then easier and better protected above this. Most people skip this pitch and just walk off.

Quite a striking line climbing a continuous corner crack system back to the Lunch Ledge. Starts about 50m left (facing the cliff) of the Mirrorball pinnacle, downhill under right facing corner. All trad with gear belays, no bolts please. Gear: wires, double cams to #3 (an extra #2 could come in handy), and an optional #6 for pitch 3. Good gear and great rock throughout.

1. 35m (17) Climb short ramp to chimney, then right crack up to easier ground. Splitter hand crack to the top of pitch. Cross short grassy ledge to gear belay in base of corner crack.

2. 35m (19) The obvious splitter corner crack to ledge. Then a thought-provoking finger crack to big chossy ledge aka “Brunch Ledge”. Belay in left leaning crack a few metres right of corner.

3. 30m (19) The steep corner crack (take care with gear). An intricate start leads to easier ground as you prepare yourself for a riveting finish. Belay in small cave under continuation of crack.

4. 25m (16) Climb crack to next ledge system, and then link the final step to gain lunch ledge. Belay in crack on wall behind Lunch Ledge trail.

Major featured corner just left (facing the cliff) and down the hill from the Mirrorball pinnacle. Take a handful of bolt plates.

1. 30m (19) Up fantastic corner past old piton with heaps of varied moves and plenty of gear to a series ledges below an awesome thin corner. Up this to double carrot belay.

2. 8m (2) Move belay a few metres right to another double carrot belay below next corner.

3. 40m (21) Follow the broken corner system up and left, passing a few ledges and into the major corner. Up this to roof and then traverse left past a bolt to the arete. Up this to triple bolt belay.

4. 25m (20) Left and up wall past three bolts to a ledge. Up death by ironstone face above to Lunch Ledge

Starts behind Mirrorball Pinnacle. 4 pitches. Bolts and gear. Old fashioned 14, may be 17 for sport climbers.

1. 40m (14) Up rad chimney passing four bolts and good cams on both walls (hint, turn around) to bolt belay on the far side of obvious ledge.

2. 20m (14) Bridge up through minor choss passing one or two bolts to funky overhanging corner. Climb through this and belay at bolts atop the Mirrorball pinnacle.

3. 35m (10) Easy right-hand traverse passing the odd bolt and bit of gear to belay on two rings.

4. 15m Up whichever way looks nicest.

Start approx 10-15m left of West Face of The Mirrorball where the crack constricts above the obvious wide chossy chimney (wide start may also go direct. Not climbed on FA due to presence of angry snake.)

1. 40m Tie belay to tree and gingerly traverse right to gain corner crack. Up into steep wide corner (# 6 Camalot) then over bulge onto easier terrain. Crack then steepens into left leaning diagonal to big ledge. From here plug in some high gear and extend to reduce drag, then traverse right approx 10m to single carrot bolt and gear belay (in middle of WFotM p2).

2. 15m Climb the obvious beautiful finger splitter (grade 20,), or if finger cracks aren't your jam also possible to climb up past 3 carrots to next ledge system to the same belay (grade 17). DBB as for p3 of WFotM.

3. 20m Up chossy wall for 5m past carrot, then trend left aiming for the notch past a variety of terrible threads and finally good large cams in horizontal. Traverse low beneath scarily large loose blocks (don't squash your fingers!) Up short hand crack to DBB on top of pinnacle.

4. 40m up easy slab past average gear clipping as few bolts as possible for trad purity, then fun steepening orange corner left of WFotM p4 to ledge and belay on rap anchors.

The obvious chimney & crack that splits the front face of the Mirrorball Pinnacle.

1. 25m (13) Up the chimney on natural gear (#5 camalot is handy for near the top). Double bolt belay.

2. 18m (20) Weird undercut wide crack start (large cam is handy again) then up the narrowing crack to the classic finger-crack (crux, well protected with medium-large wires). Double bolt belay.

3. 20m (16) Bolts (bring lots of brackets) and dinnerplates. Double bolt belay on top of Mirrorball Pinnacle.

4. As for pitch 4 of 'The West Face of the Mirrorball'.

All bolts are stainless steel glue-in hex heads (bring lots of bolt plates!). A good variation is to do P1 of 'The West Face of the Mirrorball', then step right to do P2 of 'Dirty Dancing', then P3 of either route - the belays are on the same ledge systems.

Climb the south-facing (downhill) arete of the free-standing pinnacle 40m past Weaselburger, predominantly on gear.

5 carrot bolts and a double rack of cams. Bring more big cams (#3 an #4) if you get scared on trad.

Rap off anchor at the top, 45m straight over the route.

Mixed climbing up a prominant crack line and around some huge roofs. Rock is of varying quality, but bolts protect the worst of it, and the spectacular under-roof traverse is on mostly good rock. Take a standard rack plus extra big cams and hexes to fist + size, many slings, 10 brackets.

Start: Start below a steep yellow layback corner (pitch 1 of Blue Ruin) 70m right of the Mirrorball pinnacle.

1. 45m (18) Up corner to second ring, long slings (or come back and unclip the ring) and easy traverse to right arête and carrots, step around and up layback flake to ledge. R to next corner (BR), R along ledge, up then left to U and carrot belay.

2. 35m (18) Up corner R of the belay, step R and up corner (BR), step R and up corner past 2 bolts, traverse left at top (BR) to carrot and U belay.

3. 25m (19) Wander out left and up corner past cams and bolts, then back right past 2 more bolts, continue up rightwards to ledge. 3BB.

4. 35m (20) Up to ledge (2BRs) then a hard move in the corner past bolts and up to roof and bolts. Massive traverse under 18m roof underclinging thin hand to fist crack, clip ring at lip to avoid rope jambing in crack. Pull lip and up ramp for 4m to 2U belay. Easier to lead than to second. Well protected but gripping.

5. 35m (18) Up easy ramp and follow wide crack to large roof, 2U belay on lip.

6. 25m (17) Up corner and groove (BR), step left into chimney (BR) and up easily to bolts on ledge on right.

If you like chimneys, this is a 3 Star classic. Makes for a great bit of extra climbing if you're already out doing Darkside or something similar.

Bring a double rack up to #4 plus one #5 and #6

Start at the base of the obvious chasm 20m right of Big Trad Thong.

Make your way up the endless enclosed chimney following the obvious formation (eats gear), then about 3/4 of the way up thrutch your way to the chock stones.

Sling a chock stone (whichever feels most solid), then thrutch some more until you are reborn into the outside world.

Tree Belay. As of Nov 2019, the slings and maillon for the tree belay look to be in great condition.

Obvious roof crack 5 metres right of Bunny Bucket’s pitch 6 start. Use the first 3 bolts of BBB’s pitch 6, climb up to ceiling and then traverse right (size 6 cam to protect) to enter the roof crack. Requires two 5s and one 6 size cams.

Climb easy face and finish at trad belay on obvious ledge (BD 2 and small wires).

Rope drag is manageable on a single rope with 1-2 roller carabiners and several long slings.

Rappel from trad anchor to clean face (60m rope is fine). Re-lead and then back clean roof and traverse.

The Original, Classic, Epic.

The first three pitches were retrobolted January 2011 entirely on RBs/UBs/FHs, so no brackets are required, although it's wise to take a couple in case you have to share belays. The first three pitches (17, 8, 19) of CC linked into the top of HC makes for a sub-20 outing.

1. 45m (17) Low angle cracked face then slab just left of arete to ledge and anchors. Sport pitch on ringbolts.

2. 15m (10) Short vertical crack. This pitch can be linked into pitch 1. Sport pitch on ringbolts.

3. 40m (19) Thin black face trending slightly right to ledge. Clip high bolt (with difficulty) then crux horrible chinup/mantle onto short face and up to ledge and tree belay. Sport pitch on ringbolts.

4. 10m Trad corner about 15m left of Hotel Cali's bolted line.

5. 10m Short thin corner to big shale ledge. Walk 10m left to belay.

6. 40m (22) Follow the Hotel California traverse on the top head wall for 5 bolts then head straight up the seam crack on good but spaced trad to a poor carrot belay on ledge. (U rap station 8m R and down)

7. 45m (22) Hard moves over the bulge (two BRs) then straight up the epic trad protected juggy face. Take 8 slings. carrot and U belay. Scramble up hill to cave. Walk right and up short rock step to under chossy upper cliffline. Walk left under this clliffline and up exit gully.

trad corners leading to slab. Take big rack and some brackets.

Start: About 120m right of yesterday's groove, scramble up to ledge and single U belay

1. 15m (19) Up crack on left to ledge and BB

2. 40m (19) left into corner and up past 2BR to roof, Up crack, Up chimney to ledge on left (right?) arete, bolt and cam anchor

3. 35m (19) Up corner till it fades, past botls and cams, left into easy crack and ledge. DUB

4. 35m (18) Left and up slab (Ubolts) then follow dirty ramp to ledge and DUB.

5. 30m (15) Left 5m to corner, Up corner past bolt and up grass slope to base of big cliff and DUB. Finish up gully on left

First pitch of first(?) ascent route of 'The Lost Pillar'. Start at DBB next to big block in high point of notch on Pillar side. Follows chimney (good pro) between precariously balanced banana shape block and Pillar to block perched on top, DBB on block or good natural gear belay on ledge below upper wall. Rap to notch off DBB.

2nd pitch of original route up Pillar. From top of Bendy Banana Chimney head up diagonally left up cracks and blocks to double ring anchors and top of Pillar.

Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams right to arete of Lost Pillar and up to 'diving board' block. Great exposure and views. Belay bolts are the rap station rings at top of pillar. Sign the Log Book, Rap down Josh's pitch.

Starts on spacious ledge above 'Bendy Banana Chimney' on West Face upper tier. Follows 3 bolts and some small/ medium cams on left side of upper tier and up to 'diving board' block. Belay station is the rap station (double rings) at top of Lost Pillar. 20m rap to 'Bendy Banana block' or 50m to notch (hard rope pull).

Major direct corner system on the south west side of the pillar. All trad, and done ground up in the finest possible style (if you disregard nude soloing).

1. 20m (23) Up thin crack and either step right to belay or continue straight up second pitch. This pitch is shared with Josh's Big Trad Line.

2. 25m (18) Step back into thin corner and up, past blocks and roof to base of clean chimney

3. 25m (19) Up clean line and thru roof to belay

4. 40m (16) Up chimney to ledge and finish up right arete (Gundu).

Not the usual Bluies jug haul. Bring a cut-down trad rack - double cams to handcrack size and no wires. Named in memory of Nick Kaz, who was killed on the same day as this route was established.

Start: Rap descent as for I Scream.

1. 30m (22) Start as for I Scream pitch 1 at wide sandy corner crack. At 2nd bolt step right (trad) and up steep flake crack, mostly on finger/small hand sized cams. One bolt when the flake gets wafer thin. Finish up wall on bomber micro cams. Belay on comfy ledge right of orange wall.

2. 20m (23) Stellar! Left across orange face to breach roof on left side. Up exposed techy arete to belay ledge. A sport pitch.

3. 20m (25) Stretch those calves and chalk those palms! Traverse left to stunning fused bridging corner that's lovingly cleaned to perfection. Four bolts then final finger crack on cams.

4. 15m (15) Easy juggy ironstone slab trending left. Belay on big vegetated ledge.

5. 35m (21) Surprisingly sustained face which looks like an ironstone jug haul from below. Bring three bolt hangers for the occasional random carrot.

The obvious trad corner crack (a few metres left of Bell End in case you miss it).

Up corner to below roof, build a nest of small gear then head right to arête, around it and up to ledge. Gear here is not the best but up and over to the left is better. Up to below next rooflet then right and up to anchors.

Cams, C3's, wires.

No doubt the usual crew of first ascentionists will lay claim to having done this previously. Unfortunately the fractured nature of the slab in this section leaves little in the way of redeeming features for a proper climb . . .

Start below ferny crack, head up using the fracture and features either side of the cracked slab for progression and protection. Use belay of neighbouring route and top out and find a tree.

Originally lead with improvised protection consisting of knotted slings and prussicks, but plenty of modern gear is available.

A hidden gem. Good climbing on good gear. Take a rack with Cams/ Friends of all sizes, double up for sizes 1,2,3,4 (BD Cams), a couple of larger wires and extender slings are useful. Belay off a small Gum tree. Doubt it'll see a repeat because bringing a rack to Bell seems most unlikely.

The obvious chimney/corner on the left as you enter the constricted section of the Access Gully.

Climb the chimney/corner.

Walk off via Access Gully to the left (facing in).

A rare moderately graded roof offwidth of the sort you're gonna have to invert and start pony shuffling! A great training route if you're new to this style!

Starts on the ledge directly opposite Half Thumb Hero. Begin near the back of the cave (yes, its a tad contrived, who cares, just get on it!), invert, and show us what you learned watching Wide Boys vids. Shuffle your way to the lip off the roof until you can bridge out to the opposing wall (ignoring the bolts) and up you go.

If you choose not to contrive the route, you can claim gr23.

Bring at least 1 x #4, 4 x #5 and 1 x #6. Long socks, TC Pros, and an epic beard to stroke are a bonus.

As you emerge from the access gully constriction, there is a south facing cliff on the right.

Climb the leftward-leaning off-width (with good face holds) until it thins, then climb the thin crack and headwall above.

Walk off with through scrub via the access gully to the right (facing in).

80m right of Access Gully constriction.

Thin flake to hand crack, past detached block and some choss to bulge, left and out under bulge, then up easy corner to top.

Walk off via Gully to the left (facing in).

May have been climbed previously.

10m up and left of Abnormal Coal Seam Morphology.

Climb obvious off-width/squeeze chimney to ledge, then head up shallow corner on the right to top (avoiding iron-stone plates).

Take big gear.

Walk off via Gully to the left (facing in).

100m further left from mine shaft

1. (15) - Up easy hand-crack to belay at back of cave.

2. (18) - Up slab to arrange protection in roof crack. From there either (a) Downclimb and step around arete, then up delicately; or (b) stay high and traverse under the roof crack. Whatever route you take, it leads to a hard move past flake to footledge. Then traverse right to corner, and up easy corner to top.

Walk off via Gully to the right (facing in).

75m down and left from the access gully constriction.

Long, steep, technical crack that just keeps going and going.

Small roof crack to leads to technical corner, and steep chimneying into a roof, before finishing with a nice hand/fist headwall.

Bring a full double rack 0.3 to 3 and wires. Consider an extra #3 if this is close to your limit.

Walk off the top via the Access Gully to the left (facing in).

10m right of FIFO Hooker. Obvious offwidth corner up a detached pillar. From the top of the pillar continue directly up the headwall to the top.

Rap off tree to the right (facing in), and downclimb a few metres.

Take big gear. (Warning: Pro directly after the pillar is sparse, and big boulder on top of pillar rocks if you stand on it). You can belay on top of the pillar, and walk off the back of it if you wish.

May have been climbed previously.

Right of Sooty Shaft is a short finger crack with a burnt tree hanging over it. Up crack to belay ledge, right to base of chimney, up chimney and cracks to top.

Easy corner ramble on good rock up crack, past bulge, and continuing up corner crack to the top. Walk off via gully to the right (facing in).

Start 5m right of Brave Canary in front of dead tree. Boulder up to ledge, move slightly left and climb face to break and gear. Then continue up and slightly right to top of main wall. CAUTION: Falls much above the one good break would be serious. So named because contracting Pneumoconiosis is probably safer than this climb.

A short, easy crack on the shortest (north-eastern) side of the Shark's Fin. Originally done as solo-aid to gain access to the summit to install anchors.

Starts on North-Western side of The Shark's Fin at obvious clean slabby crack (with an undercut start) on far left-hand end (before vegetated chimney) which gradually steepens before becoming vegetated. Climb the crack to where the crack ends below the roof. Place some bomber pro. Swing left to gain the tree in the chimney, and bring up your second.

Alternatively use the fixed rope and 2 x raps to pull gear from the very top. Rap anchor will be installed within a month.

The extension through the roof has been cleaned, and is an open project (21/22)?

About 500m left from Climbing boom.

Start underneath small roof crack and corner, right of Coal Seam Crack. Crack to stance beneath fingercrack roof. Undercling roof to gain corner, then up corner to the top, with a vegetated topout.

Rap off tree to the right (facing in).

So named because Rob chipped his tooth whilst abseiling through the jungle trees shortly after the ascent.

20m left of COALgate smile, the obvious R facing corner with a super exposed off-width roof.

1. 20m climb corner to stance beneath roof. Some dodey rock but pro is reasonable.

2. 20m Aid through roof and crack above, and free up small offwidth section.

Rap off as for (COALgate smile).

20m further L from Coal Seam crack is this prominent line under a huge finger crack roof. Pitch 2 will blow your mind. A real classic. Bring a rack of cams 0.3 - 5, with doubles (or triples, if this is close to your limit) of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 and 0.75. Wires are optional.

1. 15m (19) - Crux. Climb the tight chimney come hand crack to ledge beneath roof (chimney needs a camalot #5).

2. 30m (19) - Climb steep corner, traverse under roof, and continue up finger-crack headwall to ledge (many finger crack sized cams are needed). To reduce rope drag (caused by the rope dropping into the crack on the lip of the traverse), you may wish to set up a semi-hanging belay at the end of the roof traverse in Pitch 2 (requires #0.3, #0.4 and/or wires).

Stay roped up to traverse right and belay at the top of coal seam crack.

Rap off as for COALgate smile.

1. 12m (25)

2. 25m (27)

3. 20m (27)

First big chimney crack east of the lookout. Finishes at tree on right

As for FGR to ledge on left then around the arete

Hard start up to corner left of TBP, then follow the corner and crack

Arete left of Some What, route goes up just left of the arete with poor pro

Thin crack left of TYM but before the gully. Follows a crack through bulges, wall before tending right.

Start in dirty gully,

1. To tree belay

2. Up through cracks and blocks