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Routes as trad in The Burren

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Showing all 58 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Ailladie Dancing Ledges
HVS 5b The Revolution Will Not Be Televised Trad 11m
HS 4b Orang Utang Trad 11m
HVS 5a Honey Monster Trad 11m
HVS 5c Gambit Trad 11m
VS 4c Cripple Trad 11m
VS 5b Luger Trad 11m
HVS 5b Ying Yang Trad 11m
HVS 5a Dodo Trad 11m
D Pink Cleft Trad 11m
S 4b Crater Trad 11m
HVS 5a The Craft Trad 11m
HS 4b Gogo Trad 11m
E1 5c Ceili Trad 11m
HS 4a Mad Mackerel Trad 12m
E2 5c Backbreaker Trad 12m
D O Connor's Corner Trad 11m
HS 4a Dart Trad 14m
VS 4c Open Air Flake Trad 14m
HS 4a Lisdoonfarout Trad 13m
E3 6a Altered Images Trad 13m
E4 6b Uncontrollable Trad 13m
E3 6a No Control Trad 13m
HVS 5a Ground Control Trad 14m
HVS 5a Phoenix Trad 14m
HS 4b Genisis Trad 24m
MS JONATHAN

Start directly left of 'Pink Cleft' without using it as an aid. Climb the obvious crack line to ledge three quarters up and go slightly right to top out.

The 1997 guidebook says that the groove left of Pink Cleft has been climbed in the past at D

Trad 12m
Ailladie Ballyryan
VS 4c Who's Corner Trad 9m
S 4a Frost in May Trad 9m
D Chimney Trad 9m
HS 4b Left Crack Trad 9m
VD Right Crack Trad 9m
D Wide Chimney Trad 9m
HS 4b Dolmen Corner Trad 9m
S 4a Ballyran Dasher Trad 9m
VD PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS

Razor sharp rock, follow the crack to top, lots of protection.

Trad
VD JOE SMOKES CRACK

As shown, a really nice crack with lots of lovely gear placement, get to the ledge 3/4 of the way up and continue to top. Anchors are sparse but there are two threads a ways back, bring a long rope.

Trad 8m
Ballyryan
D Chimney

The chimney on the side of the cliff closest to the road

Trad
D Wide Chimney

The second chimney on the wall, on the far right

Trad
VD RIB

The flakey rib just left of the chimney.

Trad
S BETWEEN LEFT CRACK

Start just right of Chimney and far left of Left Crack. Climb directly to the top

Trad
HS 4b LEFT CRACK

The crack just right of chimney. (7)

Trad
VD RIGHT CRACK

Easy to start, difficult to finish. (8)

Trad
S BALLYALPINE

Climb 2 m up ‘Right crack’ then veer right up the slab and wall to the top. Note: It’s been climbed for years but I heard it referred to by Clare climbers as Ballyalpine (9)

Trad
S VULGARIAN

Start just left of the base of Wide Chimney. Up over short vertical cracks to a tiny slab then direct to the top. (10)

Trad
HS 4b DOLMEN CORNER

The obvious corner crack left of Ballyryan Dasher has been climbed for years but never recorded, It's worthwhile and I think a grading of HS 4b would be accurate, I'm not aware of any local names for it but something like 'Dolmen corner' would be keeping in with tradition and the environment

Trad
S 4a BALLYRYAN DASHER

This route is situated in the bay just right of the square-cut alcove and climbs the broken, wide crack.

Trad
VS 4c LEGOVER

The right-hand crack in the bay. Treat the rock with care.

Trad
S FROST IN MAY

Start below the left-facing corner crack at half height. Climb over the bulge, up to the corner crack and up this to the top.

Trad
Leaba na hAon Bho
S WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS

10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock. Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

Trad
VS 4b KARMIC RETRIBUTION

Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

Trad
S PADDY THE PLASTERER

Right of WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS the buttress becomes smooth and cracked. Start as for CELTIC TIGER for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height. Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

Trad
HS CELTIC TIGER

Start 1m left of STALL THE DIGGER, follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.

Trad
D STALL THE DIGGER

Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

Trad
D SACRED COW

Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top

Trad
D DONDAGE

About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose

Trad
HS 4b KING OF THE FAIRIES

6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

Trad
VD TOILET TIME

Climb the left corner

Trad
D Piece of Cake

Start 2m right of THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY. Climb the obvious crack to the top.

FA: Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman & Dermot O'Dwyer, 16 Apr 2017

Trad

Showing all 58 routes.

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