Routes as sport in Grotto Canyon

Classic vertical test piece on polished micro holds

Classic climbing on polished grotto canyon rock. Big moves lead to a crack flake. Keep the pump at bay over gripping the polished jugs to a no hands rest. Crank the bulge on small side pulls to a fun finish.

Start on Farewell to Arms (11a). At the 3rd bolt, leave the comfort of the crack system and go strait up for some face climbing on impeccable grey stone. Inspired by a recent trip to Smith Rock, and in sticking with the old school nature of the routes on Hemingway Wall, this climb features only 2 bolts on the ~25' face. The falls are totally safe, but you will need calm nerves, delicate touch, and old fashion try hard for a successful tick. "Courage is Grace Under Pressure" - Ernest Hemingway.

Start up and head left of Success Pool. A hard move getting to the second bolt leads to easier climbing toward a shared rest with Tropicana. From here a difficult traverse right leads to a quick shake and an almost implausible reach move before testing your endurance to the chains.

A technical test piece. One of the best of the grades in the valley. Figure out the puzzle! Stacked weird rockovers and a gnarly topout keeps you working from the moment you pull on till the moment you sigh with relief at the chains.

Work up an input zig zag feature that goes into some nice consistent 5.8 face climbing.

Kind of a hard polished start for a 5.9, enjoyable face climbing on moderate footholds. Finishes with a polished face that is not consistent with grade but seems like most people circumvent to the right along a wide left trending undercling to anchors.

Nice start and face climbing. Not ideal for top roping as there's trees midway up that obstruct the line to the anchor.

If you use the ledge, "you're only cheating yourself".

High quality moves on good holds.

Scramble to the ledge and start just left of 2 small stumps. Stick clip recommended for the first bolt which is quite high and not super easy.

Scramble to the ledge and start just left of 2 small stumps. Stick clip recommended for the first bolt which is quite high and not super easy.