Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sooty Crag | |||||
16 | ★★★ Windy Row
1
16
25m
2
15
20m
Mega corner crack that would have to be one of the best 16's in the Blue Mountains. Worth lugging a rack here just for this route. There is a convenient lower-off at the top of the first pitch. The second pitch seems very vegetated and unclimbed. 首攀: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980 | 45m, 2 | |||
Devondale | |||||
Fraggle Pleasures
Directly around corner from boulder cave (in direction of Sunbath), or reach top by walking over cave and facing across valley. Surely would have been climbed previously, considering location. Lower finger crack a one or two move wonder comparable to Hope (Piddington) but softer rock. Can build a decent anchor above the lower crack. Followed by unprotected slab and poorly protected face | 25m | ||||
The Sunbath | |||||
18 | ★★ Loki
Mixed route - bring cams. 首攀: G.Short & P.Mort | 12m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Hootenanny
Major corner crack 首攀: G.Short & P.Mort | 12m | |||
13 | ★ Chadmeister
Walk ten metres up the gully and begin on the obvious ledge. Climb leftmost crack to cave, then up central pillar of the cave and the wall above to a runout mantle top-out. 3BB over the top, well to the right. 自由首攀: T. Chaffey & M. East, 1 9月 2018 | 15m | |||
10 | Chossmaster
Start as for Chadmeister. Climb the easy diagonal crack trending climber's right to below the edge of the cave, then up the face to 3BB over top. 自由首攀: T. Chaffey & M. East, 1 9月 2018 | 15m | |||
13 | ★ Between the Lines
Corner between 'Radioactive Man' and 'Spook Eyes'. Well protected crack with some very nice climbing at the grade. Careful of loose rock. Up to either rings for lower off (shared anchor with 'Spook Eyes') or 2 bolts on ledge for comfortable top belay. First climbed in 2001 by Colin of Katoomba adventures and named Gardeners Crack but evidently not reported to the guide book editors. 首攀: 2001 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Moss Monster
Start in back of cave then fight/thrutch to rest ledge. Cruise to top, tree belay. This route was first climbed by Tom Chaffey, four days later Nathaniel and Mitch climbed it believing it was a first ascent. After being passed by for years its amazing that it got this much attention in one week. The 2nd ascentionists gave it a harder grade than Tom. Perhaps its a sandbag? Find out for yourself. 首攀: Tom Chaffey, 16 9月 2018 | 12m | |||
13 | ★ Rum-Doodle
Corner left end of the wall. Up crack then across to anchors (shared with It Goes!) 首攀: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994 | 15m | |||
13 | The Lottery of Latitude
Start: Right (facing in) around the corner from Schwing, 7m past Just Boot It. Belay ring at head height, at the start of the low roof. Careful of eroded track. Clip into the belay bolt! Desperate undercut grade 20 start, which was freed on FA. Best for leader to get a boost from the second, then leave a long sling hanging from the first piece of pro for the second to aid with when they come up. After that, grade 13 moves following shallow corner up until it steepens, then traverse right and slightly up to join halfway belay of Gimme Shelter. Good pro with threads and medium wires, bring a #4 Camalot for the first piece. 首攀: Niall Doherty & Mike Patterson, 2006 | 20m | |||
Valley Farm | |||||
8 | All Sorts
"Not good" (Owens) Start 30m left of stairs in small corner.
首攀: G. Owens, 1965 | 30m, 2 | |||
11 | Centaur
Start: In corner 33m left of All Sorts.
首攀: G. Owens, 1965 | 43m, 3 | |||
12 | Anonymous
Start 10m left of Centaur.
| 53m, 2 | |||
8 | Wavy Chimney
Start: In chimney 50m up right wall of big gully which is 73m left of Anonymous.
首攀: G. Owens, 1965 | 20m, 2 | |||
9 | Fruitless
Start: 8m left of gully
首攀: G. Owens, 1965 | 30m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Resurrection Day
Start below left leaning ferny crack about 25m right of Rubber Soul. Trend right up line of least resistance via grey slabs and slight crack to small tea tree below final short corner. Spaced slings, stoppers in notches and cams in breaks for the bold leader. | 45m | |||
15 M1 | Rubber Soul
Start: 5m right of Revolver.
| 56m, 2 | |||
14 | Revolver
Start: 50m left of Trog.
首攀: C. Monteath, 1969 | 50m, 3 | |||
15 M0 | Hard Days Night
Start: 20m left of Rubber Soul
首攀: C. Monteath, 1969 | 40m, 2 | |||
Mystery Vegetated Corner
Major corner with several bushes sprouting from it just to the left of Street Legal. There are two old carrots about halfway up - possibly a belay - and a ledge with white Eucalypt below the final overhang, from which exit stage left. The crack ranges from narrow chimney to offwidth and presents the opportunity for an old school epic. | 40m, 2 | ||||
18 | Spellbound
Start: Major crack line just left of corner. An old Thrutch (after 1972) mentions "a superb face crack" and has a photo of Greg Child on the second ascent, however Keith couldn't remember it when asked. This route may have been confused with another at Flying Fox. Crack is vegetated with ferns, and gets thinner higher up, and has one old carrot at a little roof about half way up. 首攀: C. Peisker, H. Luxford, J Lorinz & Keith Bell | 40m, 1 | |||
17 | Mystery Face
Face 10m left of Mystery Corner. Rock quality is a bit crap and it needs a brush. There are five old hangerless carrot bolts - one that has a bail biner fixed to it. Start up short corner crack (trad) then through small bulge (first bolt) and up face above past numerous bolts and some bomber medium/large cam slots. Double BRs on top but no way of walking off. | 40m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Stolen Valor
Start with an 8m section of steep layback crack on trad (hand/fist sized cams) then traverse left onto sustained bolted face. 70m rope required for lower-off. | 35m, 11 | |||
20 | Stonkered
Start: 90m left of Hard Days Night at small left-leading corner under huge chimney marked SC.
首攀: G. Owens & R. Smith, 1971 自由首攀: D. Murphy, 1995 | 57m, 3 | |||
18 | Moonshine Washingline
Arnold Lane, had a strange .. hobby, collecting clothes, moon-shine washing-line .." Start: 10m left of SC [Stonkered] in an overhung flared chimney. Obvious break in overhung wall.
Ignore reto-bolted FH with project tag and stainless carrot above. 首攀: Graham Dowden & Peter Martland (alt leads), 1978 | 50m, 2 | |||
Colosseum | |||||
23 - 25 | ★★ Kapow
A good slightly runout adventure up a long wall that starts up Pure Spirit's corner then straight up bolted wall above. The print guidebook says this is a sport route - it is not. Bring a big cam for the start (#5 camalot - and a handful of finger/fist cams for wall section leading up to the very high first bolt). The grade 25 crux is at the 6th bolt - but can be easily avoided at grade 23 by climbing 1m right of the bolt. 首攀: B. Ashby, 2004 | 35m, 8 | |||
13 | Pure Spirit
Start 60m right of tunnel at left leading corner marked PS.
首攀: P. Hardie & D. Litchfield, 1960 | ||||
12 | Pure Spirit Variant
Start as for Pure Spirit.
This climb is now mostly dirt and vegetation, interspersed with moments of below average rock and pro. 3a. 10m (16) Escape the Dihedral Of Dirt via short ironstone wall with crack at base. 首攀: B. Crouch, 1970 | 55m | |||
17 | Red Solo Cup
Definately climbed before, but no FA details. Listed as an unknown "thin crack ??" in Rockclimbs In the Upper Blue Mountains Second Edition. The clean-looking thin corner crack just past Pure Spirit. Up thin corner, through sandy bulge, and up flared crack above. Either continue up corner/face for another pitch back to Sunbath area, or rap off tree hanging out over cliff. 自由首攀: Ben Young (L) & P. Thomson (S)., 2013 | 20m | |||
26 M1 | ★★ Shiver Me Timbers
Amazing climbing up a long blunt arete, but quite tough. Just a single aid move low-down on the route! Bring a light rack for the initial start up Mixed Business. Start as for Mixed Business. Up to first bolt on MB, then follow line of bolts heading left to the arete. Aid off first bolt on the arete, then climb free to the top. 首攀: G. Bradbury, 1984 | 40m | |||
25 | ★★★ Mixed Business
Sporty climbing up a linked series of features with a hard crux, and a mix of gear and bolts. Take a full rack. Can lower off from the top with a 70m rope. Start up thin crack left of The Wake of the Flood. Up crack on gear and flake features, following the line of bolts in the middle of the wall (with gear along the way) to crack at the top of the wall, and up short corner-thing to anchors. 首攀: Giles Bradbury, 2005 | 40m | |||
23 | ★★★ Wake of the Flood
One of the best trad climbs in the Blue Mountains. Long and extremely varied. All three pitches can be combined into a single mega-pitch if you climb on double-ropes and bring enough gear (a double rack and some pre-planning should do). If you're not game to combine all three pitches, the first two go together very logically with little to no extra rope management required.
To escape, traverse 3m left (past a new bolt) to new rap anchors. 1 x 34m rap to the ground. An uncut 70m will get you with some rope to spare. 首攀: ajax greene greg child, 1977 | 50m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ The Conflagration
Start at the slab directly below the lower hand crack of TWotF at carrot. Take BD cams 0.3 - #3 WITH doubles of #1 and #2 and either a #4 OR #5. Up slab past carrot and gear to hand crack (shared with TWotF). Up hand crack and break left where crack splits (TWotF continues more directly up and right), and up into dihedral past more gear to a bolt. Then up finger crack to ledge. Left a move, then continue up past 7 more bolts following the line of the bolts to anchors on top ledge of stunning red wall. Can also continue up Mixed Business or The Wake of the Flood (P3) to top out. 首攀: Paul Thomson, 25 3月 2015 | 36m, 9 | |||
13 | Gin Sling
#Historical [Allen 1963] Start: At base of a long deep chimney approx 300m right of Pure Spirit.
首攀: P. Hardie & D. Litchfield, 1960 | ||||
21 | Zucchini Crack
WARNING: A massive landslide above this route has made this route inaccessible, destroyed the belay ledge, and possibly damaged the route! It MIGHT be possible to climb this route IF you can get to the base, but be EXTREMELY careful of the rock quality, and the in-situ rap-tree to escape the route. The hand to finger crack up the sandy wall well past Wake Of The Flood. Originally called Zucchini Crack when first climbed. Re-climbed recently and accidentally claimed as an FA under the name Finnegans Wake (as per the Blue Mountains guidebook). Has gotten harder over the years because of the terribly sandy rock. Hand & finger jamming, then into incipient seam to tree (Finnegans Wake ends here), then further up crack to where it ends, and step left and follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff. 首攀: Ant Prehn, Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980 | 25m | |||
Reservoir Dogs | |||||
17 | K-Billy's Super Sounds of the 70s
1
17
20m
2
10
16m
Seventies style trad. First ascent was even chalkless! (The leader forgot his chalk bag). One set of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot and a set of wires will protect it. Substitute hexes for cams if you sport a toothbrush moustache and pony tail. Start: Marked "KB".
首攀: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson (alt) & Josh Dodson, 2007 | 36m, 2 | |||
Puppy Face | |||||
Closed Project
The line up the obvious corner system. First pitch has been freed, two to go. | 90m, 3 | ||||
The Underworld | |||||
25 | ★★ Gravel Rash
This is the splitter crack out the humungous roofs. Very well protected with various sizes of cams. Has a double ring bolt lower off. 首攀: G. Child, 1994 | 15m | |||
23 | Dr. Dark's Cave
Up GR for about 8m, then head 10m right along the break/wall thing out the huge roof to the lip. The gear is mostly bad old bolts and pitons, with perhaps some trad and 1 or 2 new bolts where the new lines cross the traverse. Start: Start as for 'Gravel Rash'. 首攀: G. Child & M. Taylor, 1993 | 15m | |||
Flames Wall | |||||
22 | Team Tick
Some good rock and moves. Start as for UIF, then left a few metres across the ledge to a carrot bolt. Then go straight up the grey rock past another carrot bolt to the small ledge. Follow the steeper orange rock past cam placements and ring bolts. Exit the crux by stepping up to the left, then up to clip the last ring before the loweroffs. Take bolt plates, a 1.2 m sling to extend the second carrot bolt on UIF before traversing left on the initial ledge, and cams, including #3, #0.5 and #4 (immediately after crux) Camalots. Three ring bolts in total. 首攀: M. Franklin & A. Geoghegan, 2011 | 25m, 7 | |||
20/21 | Up in Flames
Climbs the grey and orange wall to finish up the closed flake at the top. Locate the first carrot bolt just over a slabby bulge to start. Climb up past a second carrot then small cams in pockets to a minor ledge and the first ring bolt (avoid the potentially loose block on the left here). Climb up into the orange rock past rings and cam placements, then up the flake to the loweroffs. Take bolt plates, cams including #0.4, #0.5, #0.75 and #3 Camalots, and a couple of extendable runners. Five ring bolts in total. 首攀: M. Franklin & A. Geoghegan, 2011 | 25m, 7 | |||
16 | ★ Walking in the Park
This climb goes up the sharp arete feature approximately 20 right of UIF. The start is above an under-cut section of the wall. Stick-clip first ring and batman up to establish hands on the lip. Pull up and on to the wall (crux) then climb up to the ledge past a break that takes a #4 Camalot. Rings and different sized cams protect the middle third of the climb, which is a pleasant vertical wall, to another ledge. From there, climb the nicely positioned final sharp arete past three rings to loweroffs. Six ring bolts in total. 首攀: M. Franklin & A. Simson, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
Pole 28 Lower Cliff | |||||
21 | Bewilderbeast
The following route is located at Pole 28 LOWER CLIFF (in the huge cave/overhang). See intro to area for directions. Mixed Route: 4 bolts plus med-large cams (double #2; 3, 4 Camalot). Lower-off. In the huge cave/overhang near the drainage/notch directly below Upper Pole 28. Start on the left where the horizontal splitter leaves a ledge. With first piece placed, launch into a pumpy no- footer L-R hand traverse (no. 3 then no. 4 Camalot) before passing 3 bolts where the crack widens, then a 4th bolt heading straight up the steep wall on crimps to horizontal break (no. 2 Camalot ideal but a no. 1 or 3 would work) and lower-off anchors just left of arête. 首攀: Tom Hepner & Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson, 2010 | 20m, 4 | |||
Pole 28 | |||||
15 | ★ Belayed by Bryden
Pleasant corner crack with overhanging crux, then easy corner and equalised small trees belay. Good protection throughout, mostly wires and a few cams. Sheltered from westerly wind and sun. 首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 18 1月 2021 | 14m | |||
17 | ★ CleanaWay
Straight up avoiding the bolts of Surprisingly Sweet. Great gear, tree belay. 首攀: Graham Dowden & Peter Martland, 30 4月 2021 | 10m | |||
8 | Practice Corner
An easy corner on which to practise trad. Stem or thrutch up to tree belay. | 8m | |||
20 | ★★ Serendipitous Pleasures
Burly overhanging roof crack with awkward exit followed by easy corner and tree belay. Make sure the cams stick, and add an extra grade for the crack exit. 首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 26 1月 2021 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★ Rohan's Roof Crack
Seam crack through roof. Originally attempted on gear by Damian Taylor and sundry.Chris Coghill, added some bolts when his gear started falling out. Rohan took offense, chopped the bolts and climbed this natural masterpiece And the world was a more ethical and morally brighter place. Amen. 首攀: Rohan, 2013 | 12m | |||
13 | The New School of Old School - Second Form
Rambly corner crack, then trend left up grey juggy wall to tree belay. 首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 25 11月 2020 | 20m | |||
14 | The New School of Old School - Sixth Class
Start: 2m right of TNSOOS Second Year. Shallow corner crack topped by block, then bash up gully to right avoiding ants. Tree belay. 首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 25 11月 2020 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★★ Cocky
The dead-horizontal roof crack you can't miss walking to the far side of the crag, but looks like everyone did? Release your inner crack-monkee and blast into pockets, upside-down fingerlocks and 360 cut-loose trickery. Finish at hands-free ledge above and backjump. Take a single rack to 3 with doubles in 1 and 2 and triples in 0.4. 自由首攀: Anton Korsun, 29 6月 2022 | 8m | |||
Flying Fox Area | |||||
14 | The Underworld
Start: Leftmost climb of cliff on left side of The Underworld
首攀: G. Owens, 1970 | 30m, 2 | |||
16 M1 | Cerberus
Start: Corner marked C, 8m right of The Underworld
首攀: C. George, 1970 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | Orpheus Arete Variant
A variant end to Orpheus Arete. From Orpheus Arete anchor 1 move left and up weakness in centre of wall. 首攀: C. George | 33m | |||
15 | Orpheus Arete
Start: 30m right of Cerberus. Old Description
首攀: C. George, 1970 | 57m, 2 | |||
14 | Embossed Carbuncle
Start: 15m right of Orpheus Arete.
首攀: C. George, 1970 | 53m, 2 | |||
15 | Fibbertigibbet
Start on big block 2m right of Embossed Carbuncle.
首攀: C. George | 53m, 2 | |||
10 | Who's Lead?
Start: 5m right of Fibbertigibbet at corner vegetated with ferns, shrubs and trees. #Historical This corner has returned to its naturally vegetated state and has no further need to be cleaned or climbed.
首攀: G. Owens, B. Crouch & Robert J Smith, 1970 | 47m, 3 | |||
13 | Time Out
Start: 5m right of "Who's Lead?" at blunt arete marked TO.
首攀: B. Crouch, Robert J Smith & G. Owens, 1970 | 50m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Copernicus
Start: Marked C at orange left-leaning corner. Originally 17 with "peg used for handhold", subsequently freed on the fine first pitch.
首攀: K. Bell & H. Bevan, 1970 | 53m, 2 | |||
17 | ★★★ Tycho Brahe
Not in 1992 guide, probably cracks in orange wall but have to ask Butch. 首攀: J. Smoothy & P. Butcher | ||||
14 | Transvestite
Start 13m left of 'Psycho Arete'.
首攀: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970 | 60m | |||
10 | ★ Psycho Arete
Start: Marked PA just left of arete below small corner. Appeared to originally climb departed tree. Ascend corner or traverse in low from the right. Plenty of pro for the first 20m, thereafter plenty of jugs but unknown.
首攀: B. Crouch, 1970 | 33m, 2 | |||
13 | Megalomaniac
Start marked M. New description Straight up from the mark to the lower gum with a lump on it. 5m grade 2 ledges then another 10m grade 3 jugs with pro past a block to a crusty carrot. Opportunities for pro now reduce with elevation. 10m to a wilted carrot, over which with a spicy mantle, then run it out to the tree. Short corner to cliff top. Original description
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 40m, 2, 2 | |||
8 | Hair
Start: 3m right of Megalomaniac.
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 50m, 3 | |||
8 | Skinhead
A varient start to Hair. Start 7m left of Riff-Raff.
首攀: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970 | 37m, 2 | |||
8 | Riff-Raff
Start 7m left of No Time Climb.
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 33m, 2 | |||
11 | No Time Climb
Start 13m left of As You Like It.
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 47m | |||
12 | As You Like It
A variant start to Nymphomaniac. Start 13m left of it at orange chimney/crack marked A.Y.L.I.
首攀: R. Smith | 37m | |||
18 | As You Like It Direct Start
A variant start to As You Like It, start 2m right of it.
首攀: B., J. Harrington & R. Taylor, 1994 | 10m | |||
13 | ★ Nymphomaniac
Start marked N, 3m left of The Homo.
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens | 43m | |||
12 | The Homo
(They certainly don't name 'em like they used to! - Ed.) Start 2m left of Sultry.
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 40m, 2 | |||
12 | Sultry
Start 3m left of Aquarius.
首攀: B. Crouch, 1970 | 40m | |||
8 | ★ Aquarius
Start 7m left of Deceptor Arete.
首攀: G. Owens, 1970 | 30m, 2 | |||
12 | Deceptor Arete
Start 13m left of old rap route.
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 27m, 2 | |||
11 | Blowfly
"Not great." (Owens). Start marked B, 3m right of old rap route.
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 27m | |||
15 | ★ Contemplation
Start 2m right of Blowfly.
首攀: P. Edwards & G. Owens, 1970 | 40m, 2 | |||
7 | Inexperience
Start: Marked I, 47m right of Contemplation at chimney/corner visibly separated from cliff at top. Deep chimney with more dirt the deeper you go, and little pro toward the light. Old Description
首攀: G. Harrison & G. Owens, 1970 | 40m, 2 | |||
19 R | ★ Home Birth Babies
Start: Unmarked, 4m right of Crankenfurten. No doubt already climbed. Easy 7m crack then hand/fist crack 10m to ledge under chimney. Top is somewhat vegetated chimney, or climb grey walls either side to tree belay. | 40m | |||
18 | ★★ Something Borrowed
Start: Marked SB. This may have been mistakenly-labelled as Spellbound at Valley Farm. Twin hand cracks and flared offwidth squeeze leads to open-bottom bomb-bay chimney. Up this then escape left up jugs to tree belay. | 40m | |||
17 | ★ Easy To Be Hard
Start: At steep orange corner 10m right of SB.
首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 17 10月 2020 | 40m, 2 | |||
CC
Start: Marked CC. Broken orange overhang with flakes and cracks, that continues up through grey juggy wall above. May have been a few moves of aid in the thin crack? Cram it with small stuff and soldier up, or lay away the flake. | 25m | ||||
9 | Easy Day
Start: Grey-green corner marked ED 20m right of CC.
首攀: B. Crouch, 1970 | 40m | |||
11 | Escapism
Start 27m right of Easy Day below short corner near forked tree.
首攀: B. Crouch, 1970 | 46m | |||
Three Brothers | |||||
6 | Easy Oasy
"Take care with pro" (Owens). Start marked EO 10m right of the Three Brothers descent gully (83m right of Escapism).
Lumpy grey ironstone wall with lichen and not much pro. 首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 30m, 2 | |||
7 | Easy Oasy Arete
Start as for Easy Oasy. Right onto arete and up to tree. 首攀: G. Owens, 1970 | 40m | |||
9 | ★ Green Gully Arete
Start at crack 7m right of Easy Oasy.
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 40m, 2 | |||
15 | The Great Escape
Start on big block 3m right of Green Gully Arete.
首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens 1970 | 37m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ Gung Ho
A variant start to The Great Escape, start 5m right of it (faintly marked).
首攀: P. Edwards, 1970 | 13m | |||
12 | Red Crack
Start at corner 10m right of The Great Escape (clearly marked).
(Looks like a decently-protectable crack - Ed '19) 首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 50m, 3 | |||
13 | ★★ White Wall
A variant start to Red Crack, start 5m right of it on big block at base of chimney (clearly marked). Traverse left off block and up past bolt runner (visible in '19 - Ed) to block on arete at belay 1 of Red Crack. 首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970 | 50m | |||
12 | Blue Chimney
A variant start to Red Crack. Start at chimney 1m right of White Wall (clearly marked).
首攀: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970 | 53m, 2 | |||
19 | Alfonso Dominico Jones
Mixed route: 4 bolts, single set cams (0.3 – 2 Camalot), medium wire or two. Lower-off. Walk 30m south from descent gully: past the initials ‘RC’ (Red Crack), around to a striking red wall and shady chimney. Starts one metre out from the corner, on the right-hand face at a thin crack, and a few metres left of the white ‘BC’ (Blue Chimney) initials. Stem for several metres with smaller cams and a medium wire in a strange slot feature, trend right past 2 bolts and small cam, to ledge (no. 2 Camalot) then nice finish up wall and arête past 2 bolts to lower off. 首攀: Tom Hepner, 2010 | 22m, 4 | |||
DG's | |||||
22 | Josh Route 2
Up the wall 2m right of Mystery Route 2 under the roof past one high RB then left across break on trad (#5 cam) to join up with bolts on Mystery Route 3. | 1 | |||
21 | ★★ Mad Taffy Traverse
Traverse the horizontal crack rightwards under the roof to lower offs. All trad. 首攀: mad taff Tony Williams, 2004 | 25m | |||
19 | Buckaroo Direct
Contrived squeeze job up the vague arete forming the right side of Chainsaw's corner. Clip the first bolt of Buckaroo if you need to and then head up to the next on the direct. #1 and #2 cam for next placement. 首攀: Tony Williams, 2004 | 10m, 2 | |||
14 | Buckaroo
Starts 2m right of Chainsaw Juggler on overgrown slope. Go from the slope to the first bolt, get to the 2nd bolt. Gear from here. Good one if you've got your chick in tow that needs a lead. Hard to clean if you don't have a second. Possibly uses lower-off anchors on Chainsawe Juggler? 首攀: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004 | 10m, 2 | |||
8 | Exotic as I am
Easy trad route up juggy wall 10m right of Chainsaw Juggler. 首攀: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams, 2004 | 12m | |||
22 | ★★ Play With Madness
Crack line splitting the centre of this overhung orange wall. Probably the only line that can go on this wall starting from the ground. Rack - doubles of cams from tips finger size (sub 0.3) to #2 Camalot and single cams of 3, 4 and vital #5. A single set of wires and several long trad runners are also useful. Lastly a narrow bit of untied cord for an important thread near top of pitch 3. Best to bring two ropes - one 60m to fix from tree at top for easy descent - and one rope to lead on. All belays are bolted and on comfy ledges. Leave the #5 Cam on the bolt belay at end of pitch 2 unless you like weight training.
| 56m, 3, 5 | |||
Carne Wall The Point | |||||
Carneivorous Crack
|