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线路 如同传统攀登 in Medlow Bath

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 107 线路.

Grade 线路 线路类型 Popularity
Sooty Crag
16 Windy Row
1 16 25m
2 15 20m

Mega corner crack that would have to be one of the best 16's in the Blue Mountains. Worth lugging a rack here just for this route. There is a convenient lower-off at the top of the first pitch. The second pitch seems very vegetated and unclimbed.

首攀: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

传统攀登 45m, 2
Devondale
Fraggle Pleasures

Directly around corner from boulder cave (in direction of Sunbath), or reach top by walking over cave and facing across valley. Surely would have been climbed previously, considering location. Lower finger crack a one or two move wonder comparable to Hope (Piddington) but softer rock. Can build a decent anchor above the lower crack. Followed by unprotected slab and poorly protected face

传统攀登 25m
The Sunbath
18 Loki

Mixed route - bring cams.

首攀: G.Short & P.Mort

混合传统攀岩 12m, 3
13 Hootenanny

Major corner crack

首攀: G.Short & P.Mort

传统攀登 12m
13 Chadmeister

Walk ten metres up the gully and begin on the obvious ledge. Climb leftmost crack to cave, then up central pillar of the cave and the wall above to a runout mantle top-out. 3BB over the top, well to the right.

自由首攀: T. Chaffey & M. East, 1 9月 2018

传统攀登 15m
10 Chossmaster

Start as for Chadmeister. Climb the easy diagonal crack trending climber's right to below the edge of the cave, then up the face to 3BB over top.

自由首攀: T. Chaffey & M. East, 1 9月 2018

传统攀登 15m
13 Between the Lines

Corner between 'Radioactive Man' and 'Spook Eyes'. Well protected crack with some very nice climbing at the grade. Careful of loose rock.

Up to either rings for lower off (shared anchor with 'Spook Eyes') or 2 bolts on ledge for comfortable top belay.

First climbed in 2001 by Colin of Katoomba adventures and named Gardeners Crack but evidently not reported to the guide book editors.

首攀: 2001

传统攀登 10m
20 Moss Monster

Start in back of cave then fight/thrutch to rest ledge. Cruise to top, tree belay. This route was first climbed by Tom Chaffey, four days later Nathaniel and Mitch climbed it believing it was a first ascent. After being passed by for years its amazing that it got this much attention in one week. The 2nd ascentionists gave it a harder grade than Tom. Perhaps its a sandbag? Find out for yourself.

首攀: Tom Chaffey, 16 9月 2018

传统攀登 12m
13 Rum-Doodle

Corner left end of the wall. Up crack then across to anchors (shared with It Goes!)

首攀: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

传统攀登 15m
13 The Lottery of Latitude

Start: Right (facing in) around the corner from Schwing, 7m past Just Boot It. Belay ring at head height, at the start of the low roof. Careful of eroded track.

Clip into the belay bolt! Desperate undercut grade 20 start, which was freed on FA. Best for leader to get a boost from the second, then leave a long sling hanging from the first piece of pro for the second to aid with when they come up. After that, grade 13 moves following shallow corner up until it steepens, then traverse right and slightly up to join halfway belay of Gimme Shelter. Good pro with threads and medium wires, bring a #4 Camalot for the first piece.

首攀: Niall Doherty & Mike Patterson, 2006

传统攀登 20m
Valley Farm
8 All Sorts

"Not good" (Owens) Start 30m left of stairs in small corner.

  1. 13m slight corner, right and up to bush.

  2. 17m, easy to right of steps.

首攀: G. Owens, 1965

传统攀登 30m, 2
11 Centaur

Start: In corner 33m left of All Sorts.

  1. 13m, corner/chimney to dead tree.

  2. 17m, corner, traverse right on to wall and up to ledge (bolt belay).

  3. 13m, up.

首攀: G. Owens, 1965

传统攀登 43m, 3
12 Anonymous

Start 10m left of Centaur.

  1. 20m (12) wall and thin crack.

  2. 33m, gully to right.

传统攀登 53m, 2
8 Wavy Chimney

Start: In chimney 50m up right wall of big gully which is 73m left of Anonymous.

  1. 13m (8) chimney to tree.

  2. 17m, gully/corner.

首攀: G. Owens, 1965

传统攀登 20m, 2
9 Fruitless

Start: 8m left of gully

  1. 13m (9) up to bolt belay.

  2. 17m, up.

首攀: G. Owens, 1965

传统攀登 30m, 2
15 Resurrection Day

Start below left leaning ferny crack about 25m right of Rubber Soul. Trend right up line of least resistance via grey slabs and slight crack to small tea tree below final short corner. Spaced slings, stoppers in notches and cams in breaks for the bold leader.

传统攀登未首攀 45m
15 M1 Rubber Soul

Start: 5m right of Revolver.

  1. 26m, rising left traverse to orange corner, tree belay.

  2. 30m (crux), crack left of corner, back into crack and up to roof. Traverse left and up wall.

传统攀登 56m, 2
14 Revolver

Start: 50m left of Trog.

  1. 20m, wall to tree.

  2. 20m, wall to tree.

  3. 10m (14), traverse under overhang, up crack.

首攀: C. Monteath, 1969

传统攀登 50m, 3
15 M0 Hard Days Night

Start: 20m left of Rubber Soul

  1. 13m, easily up to bolt belay.

  2. 27m (crux) mantle above bolt runner, traverse left and up crack.

首攀: C. Monteath, 1969

传统攀登 40m, 2
Mystery Vegetated Corner

Major corner with several bushes sprouting from it just to the left of Street Legal. There are two old carrots about halfway up - possibly a belay - and a ledge with white Eucalypt below the final overhang, from which exit stage left. The crack ranges from narrow chimney to offwidth and presents the opportunity for an old school epic.

混合传统攀岩 40m, 2
18 Spellbound

Start: Major crack line just left of corner.

An old Thrutch (after 1972) mentions "a superb face crack" and has a photo of Greg Child on the second ascent, however Keith couldn't remember it when asked. This route may have been confused with another at Flying Fox.

Crack is vegetated with ferns, and gets thinner higher up, and has one old carrot at a little roof about half way up.

首攀: C. Peisker, H. Luxford, J Lorinz & Keith Bell

混合传统攀岩 40m, 1
17 Mystery Face

Face 10m left of Mystery Corner. Rock quality is a bit crap and it needs a brush. There are five old hangerless carrot bolts - one that has a bail biner fixed to it. Start up short corner crack (trad) then through small bulge (first bolt) and up face above past numerous bolts and some bomber medium/large cam slots. Double BRs on top but no way of walking off.

混合传统攀岩 40m, 5
23 Stolen Valor

Start with an 8m section of steep layback crack on trad (hand/fist sized cams) then traverse left onto sustained bolted face. 70m rope required for lower-off.

混合传统攀岩 35m, 11
20 Stonkered

Start: 90m left of Hard Days Night at small left-leading corner under huge chimney marked SC.

  1. 13m (crux) steep left leading flake (ignore random FH with project tag from the 90s), then bushbash right to base of huge chimney.

  2. 14m, chimney to roof, traverse along roof, over lip and into slot.

  3. 30m, chimney/corner to roof, along and over. Corner, left, up.

首攀: G. Owens & R. Smith, 1971

自由首攀: D. Murphy, 1995

传统攀登 57m, 3
18 Moonshine Washingline

Arnold Lane, had a strange .. hobby, collecting clothes, moon-shine washing-line .."

Start: 10m left of SC [Stonkered] in an overhung flared chimney. Obvious break in overhung wall.

  1. (25m) (crux) Pull up into chimney - hard move to get established - then with increasing difficulty out of chimney. Pull onto ledge. Up small corner, then trend left up slab to base of scrubby chimney.

  2. (25m) Up chimney, dive into chlorophyll and easily up corner and crack etc. to top.

Ignore reto-bolted FH with project tag and stainless carrot above.

首攀: Graham Dowden & Peter Martland (alt leads), 1978

传统攀登未首攀 50m, 2
Colosseum
23 - 25 Kapow

A good slightly runout adventure up a long wall that starts up Pure Spirit's corner then straight up bolted wall above. The print guidebook says this is a sport route - it is not. Bring a big cam for the start (#5 camalot - and a handful of finger/fist cams for wall section leading up to the very high first bolt). The grade 25 crux is at the 6th bolt - but can be easily avoided at grade 23 by climbing 1m right of the bolt.

首攀: B. Ashby, 2004

混合传统攀岩 35m, 8
13 Pure Spirit

Start 60m right of tunnel at left leading corner marked PS.

  1. 8m Corner to tree.

  2. To right wall, diagonally up and right around arete via pulpit cave and up to ledge with a roof. #Historical "A small, senescent tree exists as a belay, with a rickety piton half inserted into a small crack." [Allen 1963]

  3. Escape roof of ledge by traversing right along ledge and down to gully.

  4. "Climb the gully by backing and footing out from under neath the overhanging chockstone. Scramble easily off to the right, or straight ahead."

首攀: P. Hardie & D. Litchfield, 1960

传统攀登
12 Pure Spirit Variant

Start as for Pure Spirit.

  1. 8m Corner to tree.

  2. 17m (12) Corner and slab to tree.

  3. 30m Ramp to path. (Owens 1995)

This climb is now mostly dirt and vegetation, interspersed with moments of below average rock and pro.

3a. 10m (16) Escape the Dihedral Of Dirt via short ironstone wall with crack at base.

首攀: B. Crouch, 1970

传统攀登 55m
17 Red Solo Cup

Definately climbed before, but no FA details. Listed as an unknown "thin crack ??" in Rockclimbs In the Upper Blue Mountains Second Edition.

The clean-looking thin corner crack just past Pure Spirit. Up thin corner, through sandy bulge, and up flared crack above.

Either continue up corner/face for another pitch back to Sunbath area, or rap off tree hanging out over cliff.

自由首攀: Ben Young (L) & P. Thomson (S)., 2013

传统攀登 20m
26 M1 Shiver Me Timbers

Amazing climbing up a long blunt arete, but quite tough. Just a single aid move low-down on the route! Bring a light rack for the initial start up Mixed Business.

Start as for Mixed Business. Up to first bolt on MB, then follow line of bolts heading left to the arete. Aid off first bolt on the arete, then climb free to the top.

首攀: G. Bradbury, 1984

传统攀登 40m
25 Mixed Business

Sporty climbing up a linked series of features with a hard crux, and a mix of gear and bolts. Take a full rack. Can lower off from the top with a 70m rope.

Start up thin crack left of The Wake of the Flood. Up crack on gear and flake features, following the line of bolts in the middle of the wall (with gear along the way) to crack at the top of the wall, and up short corner-thing to anchors.

首攀: Giles Bradbury, 2005

传统攀登 40m
23 Wake of the Flood

One of the best trad climbs in the Blue Mountains. Long and extremely varied. All three pitches can be combined into a single mega-pitch if you climb on double-ropes and bring enough gear (a double rack and some pre-planning should do). If you're not game to combine all three pitches, the first two go together very logically with little to no extra rope management required.

  1. 20m (20) - Up crack to V-chimney. Belay on ledge above Chimney.

  2. 20m (21) - Steep crack to body-squeeze slot. Belay on obvious ledge.

  3. 10m (23) - Tricky finger crack to belay on old carrot bolts (23).

To escape, traverse 3m left (past a new bolt) to new rap anchors. 1 x 34m rap to the ground. An uncut 70m will get you with some rope to spare.

首攀: ajax greene greg child, 1977

传统攀登 50m, 3
25 The Conflagration

Start at the slab directly below the lower hand crack of TWotF at carrot. Take BD cams 0.3 - #3 WITH doubles of #1 and #2 and either a #4 OR #5.

Up slab past carrot and gear to hand crack (shared with TWotF). Up hand crack and break left where crack splits (TWotF continues more directly up and right), and up into dihedral past more gear to a bolt. Then up finger crack to ledge. Left a move, then continue up past 7 more bolts following the line of the bolts to anchors on top ledge of stunning red wall. Can also continue up Mixed Business or The Wake of the Flood (P3) to top out.

首攀: Paul Thomson, 25 3月 2015

混合传统攀岩 36m, 9
13 Gin Sling

#Historical [Allen 1963]

Start: At base of a long deep chimney approx 300m right of Pure Spirit.

  1. (35m) Back up long chimney, wrestle with tree halfway up and continue climbing, or traverse delicately either way out of chimney. Continue to left above chimney, and climb exposed "dirty nose".

  2. Up grassy ledge to corner with long block-like ridge between containing walls. Tricky start, up until roof, awkward step left, then along to a large tree belay.

  3. Up to very large grassy ledge with large trees, up right to very bushy ledge and scramble up to "L" shaped corner [next cliffline?].

  4. Climb wall on left in long pitch. Or "Corner. Arete left or corner has been climbed. Not good." [Owens 1995]

首攀: P. Hardie & D. Litchfield, 1960

传统攀登
21 Zucchini Crack

WARNING: A massive landslide above this route has made this route inaccessible, destroyed the belay ledge, and possibly damaged the route! It MIGHT be possible to climb this route IF you can get to the base, but be EXTREMELY careful of the rock quality, and the in-situ rap-tree to escape the route.

The hand to finger crack up the sandy wall well past Wake Of The Flood. Originally called Zucchini Crack when first climbed. Re-climbed recently and accidentally claimed as an FA under the name Finnegans Wake (as per the Blue Mountains guidebook). Has gotten harder over the years because of the terribly sandy rock.

Hand & finger jamming, then into incipient seam to tree (Finnegans Wake ends here), then further up crack to where it ends, and step left and follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

首攀: Ant Prehn, Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

传统攀登 25m
Reservoir Dogs
17 K-Billy's Super Sounds of the 70s
1 17 20m
2 10 16m

Seventies style trad. First ascent was even chalkless! (The leader forgot his chalk bag). One set of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot and a set of wires will protect it. Substitute hexes for cams if you sport a toothbrush moustache and pony tail.

Start: Marked "KB".

  1. Enjoyable. Good quality but slightly dirty rock and thought provoking moves. Follow right trending seam over three bulges. Top bulge was passed by moving left and up on FA, but remember to protect your second! Above top bulge traverse easily right all the way to belay at tree.

  2. Slippery lichenous corner. Easy but poorly protected. Not worth the effort unless you are heading for the top anyway. Belay at large tree.

首攀: Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson (alt) & Josh Dodson, 2007

传统攀登 36m, 2
Puppy Face
Closed Project

The line up the obvious corner system. First pitch has been freed, two to go.

传统攀登未首攀 90m, 3
The Underworld
25 Gravel Rash

This is the splitter crack out the humungous roofs. Very well protected with various sizes of cams. Has a double ring bolt lower off.

首攀: G. Child, 1994

传统攀登 15m
23 Dr. Dark's Cave

Up GR for about 8m, then head 10m right along the break/wall thing out the huge roof to the lip. The gear is mostly bad old bolts and pitons, with perhaps some trad and 1 or 2 new bolts where the new lines cross the traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Gravel Rash'.

首攀: G. Child & M. Taylor, 1993

传统攀登 15m
Flames Wall
22 Team Tick

Some good rock and moves. Start as for UIF, then left a few metres across the ledge to a carrot bolt. Then go straight up the grey rock past another carrot bolt to the small ledge. Follow the steeper orange rock past cam placements and ring bolts. Exit the crux by stepping up to the left, then up to clip the last ring before the loweroffs. Take bolt plates, a 1.2 m sling to extend the second carrot bolt on UIF before traversing left on the initial ledge, and cams, including #3, #0.5 and #4 (immediately after crux) Camalots. Three ring bolts in total.

首攀: M. Franklin & A. Geoghegan, 2011

混合传统攀岩 25m, 7
20/21 Up in Flames

Climbs the grey and orange wall to finish up the closed flake at the top. Locate the first carrot bolt just over a slabby bulge to start. Climb up past a second carrot then small cams in pockets to a minor ledge and the first ring bolt (avoid the potentially loose block on the left here). Climb up into the orange rock past rings and cam placements, then up the flake to the loweroffs. Take bolt plates, cams including #0.4, #0.5, #0.75 and #3 Camalots, and a couple of extendable runners. Five ring bolts in total.

首攀: M. Franklin & A. Geoghegan, 2011

混合传统攀岩 25m, 7
16 Walking in the Park

This climb goes up the sharp arete feature approximately 20 right of UIF. The start is above an under-cut section of the wall. Stick-clip first ring and batman up to establish hands on the lip. Pull up and on to the wall (crux) then climb up to the ledge past a break that takes a #4 Camalot. Rings and different sized cams protect the middle third of the climb, which is a pleasant vertical wall, to another ledge. From there, climb the nicely positioned final sharp arete past three rings to loweroffs. Six ring bolts in total.

首攀: M. Franklin & A. Simson, 2013

混合传统攀岩 20m, 6
Pole 28 Lower Cliff
21 Bewilderbeast

The following route is located at Pole 28 LOWER CLIFF (in the huge cave/overhang). See intro to area for directions.

Mixed Route: 4 bolts plus med-large cams (double #2; 3, 4 Camalot). Lower-off.

In the huge cave/overhang near the drainage/notch directly below Upper Pole 28. Start on the left where the horizontal splitter leaves a ledge.

With first piece placed, launch into a pumpy no- footer L-R hand traverse (no. 3 then no. 4 Camalot) before passing 3 bolts where the crack widens, then a 4th bolt heading straight up the steep wall on crimps to horizontal break (no. 2 Camalot ideal but a no. 1 or 3 would work) and lower-off anchors just left of arête.

首攀: Tom Hepner & Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson, 2010

混合传统攀岩 20m, 4
Pole 28
15 Belayed by Bryden

Pleasant corner crack with overhanging crux, then easy corner and equalised small trees belay. Good protection throughout, mostly wires and a few cams. Sheltered from westerly wind and sun.

首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 18 1月 2021

传统攀登 14m
17 CleanaWay

Straight up avoiding the bolts of Surprisingly Sweet. Great gear, tree belay.

首攀: Graham Dowden & Peter Martland, 30 4月 2021

传统攀登 10m
8 Practice Corner

An easy corner on which to practise trad. Stem or thrutch up to tree belay.

传统攀登 8m
20 Serendipitous Pleasures

Burly overhanging roof crack with awkward exit followed by easy corner and tree belay. Make sure the cams stick, and add an extra grade for the crack exit.

首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 26 1月 2021

传统攀登 15m
26 Rohan's Roof Crack

Seam crack through roof. Originally attempted on gear by Damian Taylor and sundry.Chris Coghill, added some bolts when his gear started falling out. Rohan took offense, chopped the bolts and climbed this natural masterpiece And the world was a more ethical and morally brighter place. Amen.

首攀: Rohan, 2013

传统攀登 12m
13 The New School of Old School - Second Form

Rambly corner crack, then trend left up grey juggy wall to tree belay.

首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 25 11月 2020

传统攀登 20m
14 The New School of Old School - Sixth Class

Start: 2m right of TNSOOS Second Year.

Shallow corner crack topped by block, then bash up gully to right avoiding ants. Tree belay.

首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 25 11月 2020

传统攀登 20m
24 Cocky

The dead-horizontal roof crack you can't miss walking to the far side of the crag, but looks like everyone did?

Release your inner crack-monkee and blast into pockets, upside-down fingerlocks and 360 cut-loose trickery. Finish at hands-free ledge above and backjump.

Take a single rack to 3 with doubles in 1 and 2 and triples in 0.4.

自由首攀: Anton Korsun, 29 6月 2022

传统攀登 8m
Flying Fox Area
14 The Underworld

Start: Leftmost climb of cliff on left side of The Underworld

  1. 10m Vegetated dirty chimney.

  2. 20m (14). Up tight chimney then bash up gully.

首攀: G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 30m, 2
16 M1 Cerberus

Start: Corner marked C, 8m right of The Underworld

  1. 37m (crux). Corner into big left crack. Up to where corner and roof start, aid last 3m. Tension traverse left.

  2. 13m. Chimney, hole and corner to bush.

首攀: C. George, 1970

传统攀登 50m, 2
17 Orpheus Arete Variant

A variant end to Orpheus Arete.

From Orpheus Arete anchor 1 move left and up weakness in centre of wall.

首攀: C. George

传统攀登 33m
15 Orpheus Arete

Start: 30m right of Cerberus.

Old Description

  1. 23m. Climb big tree to small tree and onto wall. (Or perhaps watch someone else do it? - Ed.) Traverse left and up to ledge. Block and piton belay.

  2. 34m (15). Over lip, right onto arete and up to bush.

首攀: C. George, 1970

传统攀登 57m, 2
14 Embossed Carbuncle

Start: 15m right of Orpheus Arete.

  1. 23m (14). Traverse left onto arete and up to block. Piton belay.

  2. 30m. Right and up through overhang. Left and up arete.

首攀: C. George, 1970

传统攀登 53m, 2
15 Fibbertigibbet

Start on big block 2m right of Embossed Carbuncle.

  1. 20m. Wall to piton belay.

  2. 33m. Wall and overhangs to bush.

首攀: C. George

传统攀登 53m, 2
10 Who's Lead?

Start: 5m right of Fibbertigibbet at corner vegetated with ferns, shrubs and trees.

#Historical This corner has returned to its naturally vegetated state and has no further need to be cleaned or climbed.

  1. 20m (10) Corner to cave and piton belay.

  2. 17m. Chimney and corner to piton belay.

  3. 10m. Chimney.

首攀: G. Owens, B. Crouch & Robert J Smith, 1970

传统攀登 47m, 3
13 Time Out

Start: 5m right of "Who's Lead?" at blunt arete marked TO.

  1. Arete (take care) to block and piton belay.

  2. 33m. Wall and easy overhangs.

首攀: B. Crouch, Robert J Smith & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 50m, 2
18 Copernicus

Start: Marked C at orange left-leaning corner. Originally 17 with "peg used for handhold", subsequently freed on the fine first pitch.

  1. 27m (17). Small left facing corner to bulge, left across to and on to ramp. Up roof to hand traverse left to arete and piton belay.

  2. 26m. Diagonally right toward gap in wall, up over bulge, slight right and up easily to bush.

首攀: K. Bell & H. Bevan, 1970

传统攀登 53m, 2
17 Tycho Brahe

Not in 1992 guide, probably cracks in orange wall but have to ask Butch.

首攀: J. Smoothy & P. Butcher

传统攀登
14 Transvestite

Start 13m left of 'Psycho Arete'.

  1. 7m. Chimney to tree in corner on right.

  2. 13m. Corner to cave and piton belay.

  3. 40m (14). Overhang then slight right. Up easy wall to dead tree.

首攀: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970

传统攀登 60m
10 Psycho Arete

Start: Marked PA just left of arete below small corner.

Appeared to originally climb departed tree. Ascend corner or traverse in low from the right. Plenty of pro for the first 20m, thereafter plenty of jugs but unknown.

  1. Tree and arete to ledge.

  2. (10) Arete to former dead tree.

首攀: B. Crouch, 1970

传统攀登 33m, 2
13 Megalomaniac

Start marked M.

New description

Straight up from the mark to the lower gum with a lump on it. 5m grade 2 ledges then another 10m grade 3 jugs with pro past a block to a crusty carrot. Opportunities for pro now reduce with elevation. 10m to a wilted carrot, over which with a spicy mantle, then run it out to the tree. Short corner to cliff top.

Original description

  1. 20m bolt runner left and up small corner, right and up to block, piton belay.

  2. 33m (13) Up to bolt runner, slight right and up. Traverse left, mantle and up to former dead tree

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

混合传统攀岩 40m, 2, 2
8 Hair

Start: 3m right of Megalomaniac.

  1. 23m (2) Easy wall and crack to block and piton belay. (Or maybe 3 Eucalypt saplings 50 years later.)

  2. 20m (8) Right-leading corners to tree.

  3. 7m Easy corner and slight overhang to tree well back.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 50m, 3
8 Skinhead

A varient start to Hair. Start 7m left of Riff-Raff.

  1. 13m Crack to tree.

  2. 24m Crack til it joins Hair.

  3. As for Hair or off right.

首攀: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970

传统攀登 37m, 2
8 Riff-Raff

Start 7m left of No Time Climb.

  1. 13m To gully/corner, bush belay.

  2. 20m (8) Gully/corner to tree.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 33m, 2
11 No Time Climb

Start 13m left of As You Like It.

  1. 14m (11) Chimney and traverse left to tree.

  2. 23m Traverse left and up bulge and gully. Walk off here?

  3. 10m Corner to walk down.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 47m
12 As You Like It

A variant start to Nymphomaniac. Start 13m left of it at orange chimney/crack marked A.Y.L.I.

  1. 13m (6) Crack, out of cave and up to arete, to piton belay 1 of Nymphomaniac.

首攀: R. Smith

传统攀登 37m
18 As You Like It Direct Start

A variant start to As You Like It, start 2m right of it.

  1. Finger crack and reach to cave.

首攀: B., J. Harrington & R. Taylor, 1994

传统攀登 10m
13 Nymphomaniac

Start marked N, 3m left of The Homo.

  1. 20m (13) Arete and piton belay.

  2. 23m (12) Up arete to tree.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens

传统攀登 43m
12 The Homo

(They certainly don't name 'em like they used to! - Ed.)

Start 2m left of Sultry.

  1. 18m (12) Wall and slight overhang to bollard.

  2. 22m Up and left, easier rock and corner to stump.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 40m, 2
12 Sultry

Start 3m left of Aquarius.

  1. "Straight up." (Owens)

首攀: B. Crouch, 1970

传统攀登 40m
8 Aquarius

Start 7m left of Deceptor Arete.

  1. 20m (8) Chimney tree to piton belay.

  2. 10m (8) Angled chimney and left side of block to tree.

首攀: G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 30m, 2
12 Deceptor Arete

Start 13m left of old rap route.

  1. 14m Short wall to tree.

  2. 13m (12) Up tree, onto wall, up arete.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 27m, 2
11 Blowfly

"Not great." (Owens). Start marked B, 3m right of old rap route.

  1. 10m Crack to cave and tree.

  2. 17m (11) Corner to left, up and out chimney, traverse right and jump (!?) to corner. Or ramp to right, through hole and up same corner.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 27m
15 Contemplation

Start 2m right of Blowfly.

  1. 10m scrubby crack.

  2. 30m Bulge, up crack and wall to tree.

首攀: P. Edwards & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 40m, 2
7 Inexperience

Start: Marked I, 47m right of Contemplation at chimney/corner visibly separated from cliff at top.

Deep chimney with more dirt the deeper you go, and little pro toward the light.

Old Description

  1. 27m (7) Chimney to piton belay.

  2. 14m Easily up chimney and gully.

首攀: G. Harrison & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 40m, 2
19 R Home Birth Babies

Start: Unmarked, 4m right of Crankenfurten. No doubt already climbed.

Easy 7m crack then hand/fist crack 10m to ledge under chimney. Top is somewhat vegetated chimney, or climb grey walls either side to tree belay.

传统攀登 40m
18 Something Borrowed

Start: Marked SB.

This may have been mistakenly-labelled as Spellbound at Valley Farm.

Twin hand cracks and flared offwidth squeeze leads to open-bottom bomb-bay chimney. Up this then escape left up jugs to tree belay.

传统攀登 40m
17 Easy To Be Hard

Start: At steep orange corner 10m right of SB.

  1. 20m (17) Steep orange corner and squeeze/offwidth to ledge with trees. Take several 10-60mm cams and trend right below first small tree to arete to avoid compost. Rap off big tree or ..

  2. 20m (9) Low angled ramp, veg and easy corners and wall to top.

首攀: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 17 10月 2020

传统攀登 40m, 2
CC

Start: Marked CC.

Broken orange overhang with flakes and cracks, that continues up through grey juggy wall above.

May have been a few moves of aid in the thin crack? Cram it with small stuff and soldier up, or lay away the flake.

传统攀登 25m
9 Easy Day

Start: Grey-green corner marked ED 20m right of CC.

  1. 40m Up chimney/corner to ledge. Smaller chimney and easy overhangs to bollard.

首攀: B. Crouch, 1970

传统攀登 40m
11 Escapism

Start 27m right of Easy Day below short corner near forked tree.

  1. 46m Into corner, up to ledge, step left then up weakness to tree.

首攀: B. Crouch, 1970

传统攀登 46m
Three Brothers
6 Easy Oasy

"Take care with pro" (Owens). Start marked EO 10m right of the Three Brothers descent gully (83m right of Escapism).

  1. 13m, up to stance 7m left of arete (piton belay).

  2. 17m up to tree.

Lumpy grey ironstone wall with lichen and not much pro.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 30m, 2
7 Easy Oasy Arete

Start as for Easy Oasy.

Right onto arete and up to tree.

首攀: G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 40m
9 Green Gully Arete

Start at crack 7m right of Easy Oasy.

  1. 20m, crack and arete to tree.

  2. 20m (9) overhang then slightly right and up to tree.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 40m, 2
15 The Great Escape

Start on big block 3m right of Green Gully Arete.

  1. 8m (15) Traverse right off block on to wall. Right a few metres, easier right, up, back left and up to piton belay.

  2. 15m, 1m right and up over lip to tree belay.

  3. 14m, Step 1m left and up through slight break in overhang.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens 1970

传统攀登 37m, 3
15 Gung Ho

A variant start to The Great Escape, start 5m right of it (faintly marked).

  1. Up 1m, traverse right to break, up and back left to The Great Escape belay 1.

首攀: P. Edwards, 1970

传统攀登 13m
12 Red Crack

Start at corner 10m right of The Great Escape (clearly marked).

  1. 13m, corner, out on to wall and up crack, piton belay.

  2. 20m, up, traverse right and up arete to tree belay.

  3. 17m, crack through overhang then easy wall.

(Looks like a decently-protectable crack - Ed '19)

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 50m, 3
13 White Wall

A variant start to Red Crack, start 5m right of it on big block at base of chimney (clearly marked).

Traverse left off block and up past bolt runner (visible in '19 - Ed) to block on arete at belay 1 of Red Crack.

首攀: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

传统攀登 50m
12 Blue Chimney

A variant start to Red Crack. Start at chimney 1m right of White Wall (clearly marked).

  1. 23m, chimney to piton belay in roof.

  2. 13m (12) chimney to Red Crack belay 2.

首攀: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970

传统攀登 53m, 2
19 Alfonso Dominico Jones

Mixed route: 4 bolts, single set cams (0.3 – 2 Camalot), medium wire or two. Lower-off.

Walk 30m south from descent gully: past the initials ‘RC’ (Red Crack), around to a striking red wall and shady chimney. Starts one metre out from the corner, on the right-hand face at a thin crack, and a few metres left of the white ‘BC’ (Blue Chimney) initials.

Stem for several metres with smaller cams and a medium wire in a strange slot feature, trend right past 2 bolts and small cam, to ledge (no. 2 Camalot) then nice finish up wall and arête past 2 bolts to lower off.

首攀: Tom Hepner, 2010

混合传统攀岩 22m, 4
DG's
22 Josh Route 2

Up the wall 2m right of Mystery Route 2 under the roof past one high RB then left across break on trad (#5 cam) to join up with bolts on Mystery Route 3.

混合传统攀岩 1
21 Mad Taffy Traverse

Traverse the horizontal crack rightwards under the roof to lower offs. All trad.

首攀: mad taff Tony Williams, 2004

传统攀登 25m
19 Buckaroo Direct

Contrived squeeze job up the vague arete forming the right side of Chainsaw's corner. Clip the first bolt of Buckaroo if you need to and then head up to the next on the direct. #1 and #2 cam for next placement.

首攀: Tony Williams, 2004

混合传统攀岩 10m, 2
14 Buckaroo

Starts 2m right of Chainsaw Juggler on overgrown slope. Go from the slope to the first bolt, get to the 2nd bolt. Gear from here. Good one if you've got your chick in tow that needs a lead. Hard to clean if you don't have a second. Possibly uses lower-off anchors on Chainsawe Juggler?

首攀: Tony Williams/ Nora Adam, 2004

混合传统攀岩 10m, 2
8 Exotic as I am

Easy trad route up juggy wall 10m right of Chainsaw Juggler.

首攀: Nora Adam/ Tony Williams, 2004

传统攀登 12m
22 Play With Madness

Crack line splitting the centre of this overhung orange wall. Probably the only line that can go on this wall starting from the ground. Rack - doubles of cams from tips finger size (sub 0.3) to #2 Camalot and single cams of 3, 4 and vital #5. A single set of wires and several long trad runners are also useful. Lastly a narrow bit of untied cord for an important thread near top of pitch 3. Best to bring two ropes - one 60m to fix from tree at top for easy descent - and one rope to lead on. All belays are bolted and on comfy ledges. Leave the #5 Cam on the bolt belay at end of pitch 2 unless you like weight training.

  1. 18m (21) Striking left facing finger crack corner. Easier than it looks unless you have jumbo sized fingers. Finish through very steep hanging prow to big ledge (double bolt belay)

  2. 13m (20) Undercut major flake feature. Fill the base with big cams and venture upwards! Double bolt belay on small ledge.

  3. 25m (22) Traverse right from belay (bolt) for a couple of metres, up, then back left to 2nd bolt. Monkey through steepness above on giant holds (bolt) then vital #0.4 cam in small slot and right to short flake with air to spare. One more bolt, then lob the giant cam in horizontal before traversing left into slabby corner finish. Keep an eye out for thread behind small rock pillar when you can't find any gear and get scared. Bolt right at top to protect icky topout to tree belay.

混合传统攀岩 56m, 3, 5
Carne Wall The Point
Carneivorous Crack
传统攀登未首攀

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