Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Mushroom Walls | |||||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ Little Stiff'ner | ||||
{FR} 6b | ★ Slow Macabre Dance | ||||
{FR} 5a | Two Name Graham | 9m | |||
{FR} 5b | The Gruesome Toothsome | ||||
{FR} 4a | The Smiling Assassin Mr Bo | 10m | |||
Nine Lives | |||||
5c | ★ The Blessing | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | Discharge | ||||
{FR} 7a | The Unpure | ||||
7a | Totally Awesomely Cool | ||||
5c | The Chubby Brown Syndrome | ||||
5c | The Itch You Can Never Scratch | ||||
Mandela Sector | |||||
{FR} 6c+ | Trans-African Drum Battle | ||||
{FR} 6b | Doyouthinkhesawus | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | The Disillusioned Bronto Machine | ||||
{FR} 6b | Slug Control | ||||
{FR} 7a | It's a Fluke | ||||
5a | Day Break | ||||
{FR} 5+ | Morning Winpenny | 12m | |||
{FR} 6c | ★★ Duhkha | 12m | |||
6c | East of Sweden / Blabba Mouth / Duhkha Combo | 12m | |||
{FR} 7a+ | Blabba Mouth | ||||
{FR} 6c | ★★ East of Sweden | ||||
7c | Nelson Mandela Right Wing Connections
A very good link up which starts at Nelson Mandela, then crosses East of Sweden to finish up Blabba Mouth taking the cruxes of each route one after the other. Start up Nelson Mandela and climb the lower half to the break. Make a move up to the big shared hold of East of Sweden. Then begin the tricky move up the steep shallow groove to good holds just above the bolt. Now step right to gain a big spike side pull on Blabba Mouth and continue up this passing some perplexing moves on small sloping edges. Additional info: Clip first 3 on Nelson. Clip one on East of Sweden then use bolts on Blabba Mouth to lower off - it's not too hard to work out. I hope. | ||||
{FR} 7b | ★★★ Nelson Mandela | ||||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Sperm Whales | ||||
{FR} 6c | Spunk Trumpets | ||||
{FR} 6b | Join the Union, Jack | 12m | |||
{FR} 6c | Ninety-Nine Rabid Feminists | ||||
{FR} 6c | Just Yvonne More | ||||
{FR} 6c | Stars and Stripes | ||||
{FR} 7a+ | Bad Man from Bodie | ||||
{FR} 7b | Flat Baps | ||||
{FR} 6b | ★ Lotus Wing | ||||
{FR} 6c | Dry Day | ||||
{FR} 4 | That Historic Reach | ||||
Glass Gully | |||||
6a | Laughability
Start by a fallen yew tree close to Glass Gully. Climb straight up to an undercut ledge and make an acrobatic move to stand on it. Taking great care with the friable hand holds, continue to an abseil station just above. | 7m | |||
6a | You're Having A Laugh?
The short slab which shares an abseil station with Amuse Bouche | 7m | |||
5a | Amuse Bouche
The rising diagonal line on the slab just right of Glass Gully. | 7m | |||
5c | I've Got A Bad, Bad Bottom!
Described in the CC 'Wye Valley Supplement 2012'. Continuation of Amuse Bouche on Mandela Buttress. | 17m | |||
4b | Double The Fun
Immediately left of Amuse Bouche is a narrow gulley. Ascend the left side of it's slim right rib to the terrace; then climb the left side of the headwall above, with the crux at the top. Abseil station. | 16m | |||
Bronto Buttress | |||||
6a+ | The Toe | 7m | |||
6c+ | One Step Ahead of the Blues | 14m | |||
{FR} 5b | ★★ Darkside | 14m | |||
6b | The Chepstow Triangle | 17m | |||
6c | ★ Always The Rain | 14m | |||
The White Slab | |||||
4c | ★ Dabbawallah | ||||
5a | Afternoon Tea With T | ||||
5a | Full Tidenham Breakfast | ||||
6a+ | ★ A Midsummer Night's Garden (1) | ||||
5c | A Midsummer Night's Garden (2) | ||||
6a | ★ Tinaderm
The bolted line right of the two pegs in a thin seam. Surmount a block overhang and then take a curving line left to the lower-off | ||||
6a | Tinaderm (Circular)
Better than you'd think. Some shapely climbing gains the top on the huge flake from where more delicate moves lead circuitously up leftwards. | ||||
{FR} 5c | The royal thanks I | 10m | |||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ The royal thanks II | 10m | |||
6b | ★ Autumnal Dark | ||||
5c | Biscuits Bite Back | ||||
Twin Overhanging Bays | |||||
{FR} 6c | ★★ The Good Friday Agreement | 13m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★★ Avidya
A tough cookie with both the start and finish being equally challenging. Head up to below a prow and move left under it to reach and then stand on a small ledge under the upper roof. Tackle the unlikely-looking roof and then the easier wall. Direct Start, 6c+ - The direct line to the small ledge | 12m | |||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Ugoloo | 13m | |||
6c | Who Is This Man Dukakis? | 12m | |||
{FR} 6a | In the dead of the night | 13m | |||
{FR} 6b | ★★ Josie Swoonpence | 11m | |||
{FR} 6b+ | ★ Gordonzola
6b+ if gone direct starting under the roof. Most will do the 8b variation, which is better, starting from the right | 11m | |||
6b+ | ★ Alienation | ||||
6b+ | ★ Victimization | ||||
6b | ★ Polarization | ||||
6b+ | Avatamsaka | ||||
6b+ | ★★ His Master's Voice | ||||
6c | Habit of a Lifetime | ||||
7a | Up a Gum Tree | ||||
7a+ | Utilizing Eucalyptus | ||||
6c+ | SoFB Country | ||||
6b+ | Violation of Trust | ||||
6b | Lip Service | ||||
6b | So Gross | ||||
5c | The Pink Punter | ||||
7a+ | Crocker's Ash | ||||
7a | Gobbo Wuz Yer' | ||||
Bongo Buttress | |||||
6b+ | Let's Hear It for Lorenzo | 9m | |||
6a+ | ★ Take The Wave | 11m | |||
6a+ | A Liberal Smear | ||||
6b+ | Get Them Out By Xmas | ||||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ Nation of shopkeepers | 12m | |||
6b | The Microwave Man | ||||
6c | Kalamazoo | ||||
{FR} 5c | ★ Pokemon GO | 11m | |||
Under the Walkway | |||||
5b | Too Short | ||||
5b | Keep It Short | ||||
4b | Short and Simple | ||||
4c | Short Changed | ||||
Crawl Buttress | |||||
7b+ | ★★★ Latest Craze
Start two metres left of a broken corner, pull up into slight cracks. Then move leftwards along lip of the roof to the sharp arete of the buttress. Snatch and balance up right-hand side of the arete to an abseil station | 15m | |||
7a+ | Good 'Jab'!
An awkward grovel of a start (shared with "Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit") to some amenable bridging up the corner then a balancey traverse right to the arete. The clip over the roof may be problematic. Lower off the same anchor as "Latest Craze" to the right. 5 bolts + lower-off. | 15m | |||
6c+ | ★ Lounge Lizard Leisure Suit
Desperately awkward start to enter a sharp groove, then a romp. | 18m | |||
7a+ | ★ Gordonzilla
Direct start and finish to Lounge Lizard... | 18m | |||
7b | ★★★ Just Too Hot
Start at a bolt belay on the traversing ledge. Climb up to the crawl and clip a bolt above in a shallow right-facing corner. Layback up to a break then climb diagonally up rightwards through the overlaps to reach a two-finger pocket in an otherwise blank wall below a break. Stuff in two fingers and crank for the break.Step left and climb up to good holds, then follow a thin crack to reach finishing jugs. | 18m | |||
8a | ★★ Time Was Once On My Side
Front face of buttress with desperate and height-dependant finale. Starts 3m to the right of the double bolt belay of "Too hot to touch". Pull through the starting roof, and climb to the thin break benath an overlap. Continue up to the next wide break, and navigate the final face to the pig tail lower off. | 18m | |||
7b | ★★★ Too Hot to Touch
Climbs the left arete of Crawl Buttress. Pull over the initial roof on a good hidden hold then move up and right to a stretch over the next roof to a good hold. A powerful pull brings a small crimp into reach, then the break. Traverse left around the arete and a couple of layaways lead to jugs and the belay | 18m | |||
7a+ | ★★ B'stard
Start just left of the left arete of the crawl wall. Climb the groove to a big pinch flake, then make a hard pull rightwards onto the wall to gain good holds, then the break. The groove in the upper wall is reachy | 15m | |||
Crawl Wall | |||||
7b | The Forest | ||||
7b | ★ Frisco Disco | 8m |