Routes as trad in Newnes Plateau

Start on Sacrifice to the Choss God, before working way up to the left, up crack good for cams. Follow line with good pro up to just before the lip of the cliff face, where a horizontal crack in the face creates space for a bomber anchor. Optional (but recommended) third pitch to the top, with large tree for anchor. Recommended gear: varied cams up to size 3 and varied nuts.

Just to the right of the red wall there is a crack for 6 metres leading into juggy ironstone and onto ledge under main wall

From the belay above "Little Leprechaun", traverse 4m right and climb mossy wall past 2 spaced rings and some small cams, to double ring bolt belay.

Traverse left under roof (#2) into narrow hand crack. Clip bolt on face after second roof and up to anchors above ledge

The Right end corner

Mixed route

Head right from belay bolt then up past carrot, fixed hanger, some gear in flake and another carrot to now shared anchor with ELHL.

Slightly easier than the seam start, stick clip high bolt then up to flake (#3 cam) and then up to ledge to either route. A #1 cam also may be handy.

30m right of Phatty's last stand. 4m of steep tight hand crack then 8m of rubbish. The dishwasher-sized block with the tempting jugs, perched at the top of the crack, is detached and vibrates. Recording the climb anyway in case anyone else is tempted, so at least you know to climb around that one, and continue taking care on everything else.

The offwidth corner at left hand of ledge system to DBB

From left end of ledge at belay bolt start up crack to head wall (2 RBs) and DBB.

Start 1m left (directly below the steep upper crack) of monster block that forms chimney. P1 20m 21. Thin crack to flaky block in left facing corner, right to fern and roof, crack to break. P2 45m 21 steeping crack to cave at top. Descend down gully on left.

Crack line that parallels the upper pitches of Bungleborri Crack. P1 as per Bungleborri Crack. P2 40m 22. Traverse 4 metres left to crack, up past roof then corner to ledge, on to top.

Start 20m left of Bungleborri Crack at a left facing corner.

1. 20m 22. Diagonally right to arete (3 BRs), up past 2 breaks, wall to ledge, belay off 2.5 to 4 friends.

2. 30m 22. Corner to immovable boulder. traverse up and right, jugs, to bolt belay (carrots) above arete.

Not sure where this route is located in relation to all the new routes. The original description is. West facing wall 300m metres south west of Bungleborri Crack. Start at small right facing corner below right leading crack. Corner and crack (rock improves), wall and arete to double bolt belay (carrots). 5 bolts and doubles on big cams.

Crack system to lower-offs

Obvious corner.

3 stainless carrots and apparently some gear to newly installed lower off. (old chains will be removed later)

The left facing corner to half height in centre of wall. 3 BR above trad start.. Tree and BR belay over top

Start up arete, sharing crux and then step into corner and up to anchors via squeeze chimney. Can also start up CMC trending left and up corner at grade 17

Wide crack on pagoda in south facing amphitheatre. Doubles from #2 to #5 and triple #3 recommended

The offwidth crack with fragile jugs sprouting from it towards the base of this wall

The hand crack from the left side of ledge. Continue up dyke feature with gear available to left. Originally topped out, but veering right to anchor of Squashed Dog may be preferable

The large corner forming the left boundary of the main overhang. After the initial wide hands section, step right to climb the wall (protected by cams in horizontals ), before regaining the corner above ferns. Many large cams (to #9) with mandatory #4 Camalot.

Left most crack, up corner to roof at 3m then traverse left to arête and up to sit down ledge. DBB.

Boulder the arête straight up into the overhanging crack past good gear jorizontals. DBB

Outrageous climbing on a 36º angle!! Bomber gear that is easy to place, with a few sections of committing climbing. Be aware of the big ledge !!! DBB.

A 5 move boulder problem in a steep crack to get onto ramp at base of Aurora pitch 2

Arapiles style Trad climbing with bouldery moves and rad jugs. Bomber gear and easy to place... get on it.. DBB.

Left facing hanging corner towards right end of wall

Mixed route (5 bolts and small gear) 3m right of “Emoji” at the right hand end of the main overhang. Up arête past 2 bolts and small cams to ledge and gear, then up and right through steepening territory passing 2 more bolts to single bolt belay ( at present)

Start off ledge 3 m left of waterfall at right hand end of cave. A boulder problem to first bolt then more easily up hanging corner past 2 more bolts and gear to ledge. Continue right up ramp to finish past 2 bolts on arête. DBB. Finger sized gear and smaller.

A thin right leaning crack in the centre of the wall. No lower offs as yet.

8m consistent overhang in 17m of height. Very well protected finger crack topping out the cliff. Very clean. Only one jug after the low first crux, then pumpfest on fingerlocks, then a last crux pinching the dyke to pumpy easier few metres. Top out past DRB anchor. Shady in summer, sunny in winter.

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The obvious flake / corner

Climbs a corner (wide hands) gully to fig and past into scramble gully to upper ledge. Can go on gear or use first couple of bolts on face on the sport route to the left, originally solo'd

Splitting the upper tiers of the pinnacles,left side of ledge and climbing access to the top

Climb the 4m bomb-bay chimney roof, continuing up and right with gear in horizontal break, to anchors of “Joint Venture”.

From the large ledge above “Top Rope Ethics”, climb the wide corner to the left, then through the 45 degree overhanging V (off-width to hand) crack.

Climb large flake on trad then rising traverse past 2 bolts and gear to hanging corner. Up this with small wires passing 2 more bolts to DBB. Full double rack to #2 and singles to #4

Short green corner to fig, through natural arch and up canyon slot. 80 meters left of access gully exit.

Northern part (highest) of access slot...fun with squeeze to chicken wings...no pro... just squeeze harder if it feels run-out!

Left facing corner to step right at roof to belay on ledge (15) 25m. Continue up right facing corner to convenient tree (13) 25m. Descent down vegetated gully to climbers left.

A long single pitch, or can belay on ledge at 20 m. Left facing corner 15 m right of Morenci under hanging corner. Up easy hand crack to overhanging layback. Step right to ledge and up to roof, step right and continue up corner and face to top

Skip the bolts on the nice crack that Centurion starts up but instead of heading right to the aréte, wander up the obvious and really nice corner finger crack to the top. Tree belay. Try to avoid trashing the fern near the top as it can be easily climbed around with bomber gear just before you do so. Lots of small/medium cams. You can get off by rapping from a tree or scrambling down to the anchors for one of the other routes.

Start on the left side of the century box feature to gain the obvious crack. A mixture of bolts and cams.

The crack bisecting the wall just left of access ramp. Up left of fern easily for 10m. Martial your TCUs, and finger size cams, and small to medium offset wires and launch up the overhanging seam. Hand size gear for the finish at DBB just before the moss sets in. The route has been done to the top.

Amazing steep line following the crack where the roof of the cave joins the wall. Stickclip and Batman 4m to DUB anchor on ledge avoiding damaging vegetation. Climb steep corner on jugs and small crimps and follow crack under roof. Exit roof and follow easy crack for few meters. Downclimb and back clean, no anchors.

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Open project, this is the ground up direct start of Mother Earth. Partially cleaned, rock is of lower quality and quite moist looking, angle in excess of 70deg with no feet on bad finger locks. The stronger ones should at least give it a go and potentially make it happen?

Closed project in the crack system on the wall to the right of Mother Earth crack. Start anchor is on top of a hanging grass curtain. Very hard and steep trad supplemented with two bolts followed by 70deg 4m bolted roof.

Wild, hypermodern, intergalactic trad jugging from outer space. Look up and dream with eyes wide open, digits chalked and palms outstretched.

The perfect rock takes cams, wires and hexes in every possible way.

Absolutely classic.

The most obvious line through an enormous arrow head shaped stain. Fantastic steep crack, fingers, hands, chicken wings, funky dropknees, karate kicks, few pockets and few good crimps and jugs. Stops where the rock quality deteriorates after obvious bulge in ceiling. Lower off.

Short version of Le Paresseux. Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Finishes at anchor after 5m of horizontal heel hooking and wishing you were a sloth. Half the gear is straight forward cams, half is tricky, bring a selection of hexes and offset nuts, slings, etc.

Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Climb Sloth Roof but keep going past the anchor for another 10 meters of mind blowing journey through a ceiling with tufa looking ironstone features. Ends a the opposite wall when your feet land onto a ledge after just another incredible 180 deg feet first cut loose.

Solo, no pro

Up dirty crack right of SOTD

Up face in front of block. Mixed routes os bring some friends.

Right side of slab, carrots and friends.

Large corner with overhanging top section

3m right of HOD, up fiant thin crack, wires.

To the left of the main lookout area is an obvious bowl with small pagoda at top. This route climbs the obvious corner-crack nearest the lookout. Either rap in or walk around from end of main area.

Steep start leads to solid hands to turn lip then up line via fists, offwidth, and chimneying up to finish up fist corner crack to top.

Someinteresting climbing on interesting rock. Belay off gear in crack at top or optionally back up to tree a few metres back.

P1 20 meters to mini cave.

p2 40+ meters to the top, 3 carrot anchor.

Rap in climb out.

Gear: Double rack of cams plus four #4's, three #5's and two #6's and a 1.2m sling for a chock.

Rap in. Run out.

Has all types of rock, solid, chossy, iron stone etc. Great position but take care. Originally had 7 bolts. Brendan did a classic self sandbag, felt weak, got scared on some runouts with suspect rock and cried for a top rope. It now has 12 bolts and is much more pleasant. Anchors: 2 belay bolts at the top. 2 belay bolt at base (spacious ledge 8m off the ground)

Access: Rap down the wall between Foaming and Rabies Straight up the line of scoops, 3m right of the arete. 12 bolts plus micro cams and #2.5 friend. Up past 9 bolts then micro cams in horizontal, up to #2.5 friend at large break (long sling required). Move left and easily up pockets then back right. Through overlap and up past 3 bolts.

Nice straight climb with some good moves. Anchors: 2 belay bolts at the top. 2 belay bolts at base (small ledge 8m off the ground)

Access: Rap down the wall between Foaming and Rabies Up crack, small to medium friends and wires. Straight up past 7 bolts.

If we only had young forearms again. Cruxy. Good fun. Anchors: 2 bolts at the top. 2 belay bolts 37m down and 15m above the ground on small footledge.

Access: To the of Froth Wall past the Pillar. Rap down the wall and swing right 3m when nearing the belay. 13 bolts and a friend #2.5 after 11th bolt.

Very nice wall. Sweeping orange expanse at the left end of Hotdog wall. Has some sporting runouts in the upper half, so bring some extra undies and have fun.

Anchors: One bolt and tree belay at the end of the route. One belay bolt plus #2.5 friend at base (semi hanging belay) Note: anchor is high.

Access: Locate 2 rap bolts a few metres back from edge. Abseil down steps and dinner plates or scramble with a prusik for approx 12m to bolt on ledge one metre above where vertical rock begins. Rebelay/attach rope to bolt and continue to rap another 28m to small ledge 8m above the ground (you will need to swing and clip a bolt about 10m above the belay stance to be able to reach the belay anchor).

10 bolts and 2 cams. 5 bolts then #3.5 friend after another metre, 3 bolts, #3 friend after another metre, 2 bolts. If you hate rope drag, unclip 3rd bolt runner after you clip the 4th and put long draws on the 6th and 7th bolts.

Nice climb.

Anchors: 2 belay bolts at the top. 2 belay bolts at base 8m above the ground. Semi hanging belay.

Access: Rap down from Hotdog anchors. There are two cam breaks. Friends either #1 or #1.5 or #3 plus a #4 and 8 bolts. Go left at second cam break then back right.

Great route. Good warm-up.

Anchors: One belay bolt at the top plus a #3.5 friend. 2 belay bolts at base 8m above the ground on ledge.

Access: Rap down from Hotdog anchors. Rack of wires and small friends plus 8 bolts. Up crack then step right at the bulge towards a bolt. Up past bolts. Veer right after last bolt to anchor.

Has a sting in its tail.

Anchors: Tree belay at top. 2 bolt belay at base. 8m above the ground at the base of the flake/crack. Semi hanging belay.

Access: Use tree belay anchor. Rap on the right hand side of the bulging rock at the end of the route. 6 bolts and a rack of friends, doubles on #1 and #1.5. Up flake/crack which trends left. Straight up orange rock. Need to look for gear in upper half. Take some extender quickdraws. Go left after last bolt or straight up which is slightly harder.

Good wall for a warm-up.

Anchors: One bolt plus cluster of small gum trees 5m back at cliff top. 2 bolts at base of route semi hanging.

Access: Rap down 1/2m left of the route. Rack of friends plus 3 bolts. Up

Anchors: One bolt plus medium gum tree 5m back at cliff top. 2 bolts at base of route semi hanging.

Access: Rap down 1/2m left of Pedigree. Rack of friends #1 to #4. Up 2m then diagonally right for 5m. Up past 3 bolts.

Some fine arête moves.

Anchors: 2 bolts at the top. Natural belay at base of arête/crack on small foot-ledge. Wires and small friends.

Access: Rap down the right side of the route. 11 bolts. Up. Optional belay at 20m. A nice 19 if you climb the crack then traverse to the arête just above 2nd bolt. (Using crack for gear or second bolt).

Not a bad little corner despite appearances.

Anchors: Tree belay at top. Large ledge at base

Access: Rap down Georgie Girl Rack of cams and wires. Up the crack. The start is unprotected unless you have some very large cams.

This was going to be the crag warm-up at 16.

Anchors: Tree belay at top. Large ledge at base

Access: Rap down slot right of Georgie Girl 4 bolts and small to medium gear Up easy wide crack then small to medium gear in crack (need sling to extend). Large jug on right plus a bolt. Straight up past another 3 bolts, then last piece is Friends #1 and smaller in horizontal.

A few thin moves up an aesthetic wall.

Anchors: Tree belay at top. Take #1 and #1.5 friend for belay at the bottom, 10m above ground on good ledge.

Access: Rap down arete and preclip first bolt

Start as for Fiery Fur balls. After third bolt veer left a couple of meters via #4 friend and small cam slot, then straight up past 6 bolts

Anchors: Tree belay at top. Take #1 and #1.5 friend for belay at the bottom, 10m above ground on good ledge.

Access: Rap down arete and preclip first bolt 7 bolts, sling , friends # 0.5 #1.5 #2.5

Start 1m left of the arête. Past bolt then #1.5 friend then sling over big jug. 5 bolts then slot the #0.5 and/or #2.5 friend in the horizontal, one more bolt to the top.

Super steep roof crack on bomber hands and fists with plenty of gear. Gear recommended double #4#3#2#1, gear before first lip has to be extended or unclipped otherwise rope drag will be problematic. Lower off.

Corner and arete with two ferns, on the North side of Main Gully. You pass this heading down to WTAF.

Think your way onto ledge, then wander between arete for holds and corner for gear. Gets half a star for the cool pocket above fern numero uno.

Start right of arete, up arete then left to crack on left wall into a black hanging corner to top. 35m Rap off large tree.

Offwidth #6 roof crack with low footwork and features inside the crack. Easy start to wedged boulder where a start anchor can be built. Chimney out to roof crack, turn lip then finger/hand traverse to next lip. Lower off. The last few meters to topout is easy climbing on rotten rock and has not been climbed. Located in a small cave just before accessing Supercrack.

Roof hand crack in a cave. Although the whole line includes climbing P1 & P2 below the cave and includes topping out the easy groove above, the popular option is to climb and exit the P3 roof (crux), stand up then aid back down to clean the gear.

1. 25m (12) Right facing corner

2. 20m (17) Roof crack then jugs

3. 20m (24) Roof crack then steep groove