Routes as trad in Bochlwyd Buttress

Easy start up to a steep groove. Climb to a undercut crack, jam right and follow to a virtual crack to a ledge. Tale the groove to the finish on the slab above.

Either start at the bottom of the Chimney (direct) or to the right of the giant flake. Climb until you sling the top of this flake for your first belay. Then move out continuing up the Chimney, avoid when wet as it becomes much harder. Continue to the top.

25m. Climb upward to the right of the Chimney. Onto a small flake following crack lines to a small ledge big enough for 2.belay here.

20m. Traverse left over broken rock to then take the easier route up.

Best climbed from the top of pitch 1 to 3 to 5.

1. 7m. up the small slab.

2. 4b.9m. Climb into the slot, with good gear bridge up, left and out to small belay.

3. 9m. Climb up onto a good obvious ledge to belay.

4. 10m zig left across easy ground the zag right up onto the ledge before the slab/buldge. Belay here.

5. 10m. Climb straight up over the buldge until the top.