Routes as trad in Rio Oro

The left most route has no name but many people call it La Comadreja Enchilada and at the time of writing the only route with seemingly bombproof protection, is also the hardest at Rio Oro. Start to the left of the thin crack with a good three finger pocket and a home made first bolt. Make finger strength and clean footwork dependant moves up and to the right to the commercial bolt for a feeling of security, and clip while pinching with the left. With a slight overhang, from here work your way through the crux, using the thin crack for a couple of moves before climbing back towards the left and finishing on a high step with great pockets before the anchors. As with most routes on the wall, dirt and overgrowth can be a problem, especially near the rounded top of the climb.

Directly to the right of 'David Ulloa' and just to the right of the thin crack is the delicate and resolute La Virgen. Climb up the crack using the odd face hold clipping the homemade bolts along the way. Past the third and final bolt climb up and to the left using large pockets and slopers until you reach the same anchors as 'David Ulloa'. This route has yet to see a successful headpoint.

For this climb follow the kinked pen mark crack directly to the left of the easily identifiable Media Luna. At the time of writing this route does not have any top anchors and is missing a first bolt, and therefore the best thing to do is to set up a top rope on one of the trees at the top of the wall. Climb directly up the face using some well placed feet to ensure a successful attempt for the top.

Media Luna is the most apparent climb on the wall as it follows the obvious crack that is just to the left of the strangler fig tree roots. This is also the route that you will rappel in from when entering Rio Oro. Start with an easy step up onto a ledge before using a mix of layback and juggy crack moves to make your ascent. The homemade anchors at the top of this climb are a little sketchy, I would recommend creating a top rope from a tree, or if leading, topping out and then down climbing the roots. This climb can also be completed as a trad route.

This climb is just to the right of the tree roots. At this climb the wall is slightly forward leaning and therefore this route provides a good warm-up for others on the wall. At the time of writing, all the bolts on this climb are homemade and one of the two anchors is missing, which is sad as it would be good to see one of Costa Rica’s first bolted climbs retrofitted with a new set of hardware.

This scarcely bolted route is the most easterly climb on the set of freestanding boulders. Climb the face using a series of slopping crimps and slippery feet. Despite bearing only a single bolt if you are confident and courageous, you can always boulder the route at about V5.

The middle north facing climb on the dislodged boulders is La Viagara. Using solely the face of the boulder, gloriously crimp this short route to the hanging chains above. You will find the climbing to be discreet and you will be at the anchors before you know it. For a much easier version of the same route, use the large crack between the boulders in a layback style to make the ascent. Sending the route in this manner brings the grad down to 5.9.

Directly beside a tree (across from Media Luna and the strangler fig tree routes) and on the shortest boulder’s north face, La Caja de Leche uses a set of homemade bolts and chain anchors. Squeeze milk out of the box by hugging the boulder and compressing inward with all four limbs, trading movements between extremities until you reach the anchors. Due to the low height of this climb, it can easily be bouldered if you are really antsy to get on it.

On the back of La Viagara is El Pecho del Palomo, a short, dashing, classic with a vivacious crux. Start by standing on the small boulder and then follow the side pull up to a good horizontal crack. Pull on the crack to work your way onto the slopping ledge before reaching around the overhang and clipping the anchors. At the time of writing, this climb has all homemade bolts and anchors.