Routes as sport in Gloucestershire

The first sport route on this section. Climb steadily to the second bolt, from here traverse leftwards along a thin crimp rail to a good ledge. Next make a baffling move to reach the next good ledge slightly rightward. Easier climbing above leads past huge pockets and eventually to the lower off high up the wall.

Can be dusty. Start up Agamemnon but head up the right-hand bolt line to a roof. Pull over to enter a groove above and then continue up past overlaps to the fragile band of rock. Follow the lines of grooves and overhangs up the wall to a lower-off.

LH of two bolt lines in the centre of the lower tier of North Wall

This terribly named climb covers some excellent sport climbing. Former E5, now fully bolted. F7a,F6c+,F7a,F5. First Pitch is the best, 2nd pitch is desperate trying to go direct over the bolt on the slab, can take it a lot easier further right but a bit off route. Third pitch is a soft touch 7a but again really good. Final pitch is loose.

Long bolted line just right of the NE corner of Woodcroft Quarry. 19 bolts + 2 bolt lower-off (but there's at least one you can skip if your short of quickdraws).

60m rope only just reaches the ground when lowering, please take care. An alternative with a shorter rope is to multi-pitch the route from the first terrace.

Watch out for loose stones when belaying.

Climb the corner with holds out left until the route moves onto the main wall. Climb up to the bulge and, after clipping the bolt, move right to hidden hold out right and small jug a reach above. Climb over the budge and upward until a small traverse left is required. Climb up again until some more suspect rock on the left allows you to get to just below and left of the top out. Bridge out right using diagonal holds to reach the abseil station.

Starts in the bottom lift. First pitch 5c, second 6a+

No use of the jugs out right, otherwise this is 6A+.

Originally given 6a+ but a large hold has ripped off, making this much harder now.

right hand finish of Ally Oops

A peasant if brief line to a shared lower-off

Go direct following the line of 5 bolts before completing an easy traverse to the lower off of 'Still Stuck on You'.

Boulder up to the flake off slopey feet.

Rock over and move up on small crimps. Given E4 6C if the first bolt isn’t pre-clipped.

Nice crack line to the right of hte arete. Bolted loweroff.

Move up onto the pedestal and make the first easy clips. Ascend the wide crack making full use of the welcome borehole; then, at its top, make a tricky pull up right to better holds. Perfect finger slots in the thin crack above lead to more positive holds and a romp up the mini-ramp to a double ring abseil.

Through broken rock to the left of a V grove, then tend right to an anchor, right of the thin seam.

tep up onto the raised ledge left of Bodger Bob then climb directly up onto the face above and finish leftwards to same anchor as Hong Kong Garden.

Follow large broken rock to ledge, then a series of small holds tending slightly right to an anchor in a niche.

Broken rock then left facing corner system

V Grove to ledge then up.

Midway between Boris and the Three Amigos is a prominent square-cut arête with an attractive orange sidewall (that’s immediately visible on high as you enter the quarry). This gives an excellent strenuous pitch starting up the white arête and climbing the steep breccia speckled crack with some big flowing moves linking some unobvious holds. Make sure you keep to the crack at the top (as you pass the last bolt runner) before reaching down right to clip the double ring abseil station.

Start clipping the first 2 bolts of Gallions Reach. Then reach leg for the big jug and finish the upper part of Woke Up Dreaming